On Wed, 26 Aug 2015 16:53:41 -0700, wrote:

On Wed, 26 Aug 2015 09:00:01 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Aug 2015 17:22:09 -0700, wrote:

I bought a .22 barrel liner and installed it in the rifle. I did a
trade with guy who had the special drill for the barrel liners from
Brownells. I drilled a rifle for him and since he had the chamber
reamer and head space gauge he chambered my rifle. I got the barrel
back today and the chamber is about .002" over what the original
chamber was. The original shot out chamber measured .228 and the new
chamber is .230. The rifle seems to shoot OK but I have not yet
installed the new sights and am not sure. The rifle is a Remington
model 6 and is one of the earliest ones so it is about 100 years old,
if that makes any difference. I assume that the rounds the rifle was
designed for probably used black powder instead of smokeless, so maybe
that is way the chamber is smaller than the new reamed one. However, I
think it is too big and the dimensions I have found online agree with
me. I do not want to remove the new liner and start over again and I
cannot ask the guy who chambered it for me to buy me a new liner. So I
am thinking about using electroless nickel plating to shrink the
chamber. I could pretty easily devise and build a contraption that
would slowly raise the barrel out of the plating solution so that the
plating would taper to the full thickness, so that the plating would
be full thickness for about the length of a long rifle case and then
taper off where the chamber start to neck down. Or I could just stick
the barrel in the solution to the proper depth and plate it the proper
thickness and end up with an abrupt edge where the plating ends. This
edge would be about .0015 high. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Eric

If your barrel is a .22 rim fire the "head space" is determined by the
case rim, not the forward end of the chamber. And, most .22 rim fire
guns can be used with any one of the three lengths of .22 rim fire
cartridges.

The SAAMI standards (available on line) list several chamber diameters
for the .22 cartridge:
.22 short chamber diameter .2291
.22 long .2307
.22 long rifle .2267
.22 long rifle - Sporting .2307
Unless otherwise noted all dia +.002

You might also want to read:
http://www.gundigest.com/gunsmithing...rch_ruger10-22
Thanks everyone for the replies. I guess I'll just run a bunch of
rounds through the new barrel liner and see how well the rifle shoots.
BTW, in my post I mentioned the age of the rifle in an effort to be
thorough, not because the thing has any kind of value. I bought the
rifle years ago just because it was interesting and because of the
small size which makes it a perfect rifle for a child to learn on.
Even though it was originally chambered for 22 long rifle and is so
again I will mostly be shooting CB shorts or longs. I like those
rounds because of how quiet they are. The action is described as a
rolling block type but I have read that it is not actually a rolling
block but sort of a falling block. I'm no type of an expert when it
comes to firearms so that's part of the reason why I am concerned
about the large chamber diameter. Right now the breech block does not
contact the breech face in a parallel fashion because the breech face
was so damaged I had to remove .010" in order to clean it up. I will
need to move the barrel back .010" so that it will once again contact
the breech block properly. Either that or move the breech block .010"
forward. Because the barrel is held to the action by only one thumb
screw I can see three ways to fix the problem.
1) Machine .010" from the barrel lug so it will slide forward. But
then I will need to either add metal to the other side of the lug and
machine it flat or shim it. If this is not done the barrel will slide
back away from the breech block.
2) The reciever is a slab sided affair that is pinned together so I
could press the pins out that hold it together and machine it similar
to how the barrel lug would be machined and then build up with weld
and machine back to size or shim in order to make sure the barrel
cannot move from the new position.
3) Remove the rolling block which is retained by only one pin which it
pivots around. Bore the hole in the rolling block oversize and move
the location .010" in the proper direction at the same time. Then
press in a bushing to bring the hole back to the proper diameter. I
will probably use aluminum nickel bronze for the bushing because it
would be perfect for this application.
I don't think the breech block will provide much of a gas seal even if
it contacts the breech face perfectly parallel. I think any movement
of the shell case out of the barrel would tend to push the breech
block away from the barrel at least a few thousandths of an inch and
this would allow any gas that escapes past the shell O.D. to vent at
the breech face. And this could maybe cause a burn if a child had a
finger close to the breech. This is why I am concerned about the large
chamber.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Eric

Why not simply silversolder a .010 shim on the face of the breech? If
it needs some trimming..it can simply be done on a bit of 150grit
placed on a solid flat surface? Dont overthink this. Least of all
with the very low pressure CB caps (and Id have chambered it for CB
caps if thats all I was going to shoot in the old girl. Or at the
most...22 shorts

Gunner