Greetings all you Gundamentalists,
I have an old Remington Model 6 .22 caliber rifle. I like this rifle
but it needs lots of work. When I bought it it had a steel rod driven
in the muzzle end about 2 inches deep. I don't know who did this
damage or why. Anyway, it needs to be relined. Among other things. I'm
going to buy a barrel liner from Brownells. I want to shoot mostly CB
shorts from this rifle, but may want to shoot .22LR rounds also.
Brownells sells two types of liners, one rifled for .22LR and the
other for shorts. Since I will be shooting both types of rounds which
liner should I buy? Also, I can use either Acraglas or solder to
install the liner. I can solder well but have no experience with
Acraglas. Any opinions on which method would be best?
Thanks,
Eric

On Sun, 23 Sep 2012 09:53:25 -0700, wrote:

Greetings all you Gundamentalists,
I have an old Remington Model 6 .22 caliber rifle. I like this rifle
but it needs lots of work. When I bought it it had a steel rod driven
in the muzzle end about 2 inches deep. I don't know who did this
damage or why. Anyway, it needs to be relined. Among other things. I'm
going to buy a barrel liner from Brownells. I want to shoot mostly CB
shorts from this rifle, but may want to shoot .22LR rounds also.
Brownells sells two types of liners, one rifled for .22LR and the
other for shorts. Since I will be shooting both types of rounds which
liner should I buy? Also, I can use either Acraglas or solder to
install the liner. I can solder well but have no experience with
Acraglas. Any opinions on which method would be best?
Thanks,
Eric


Have you checked with Gun Parts and others for a replacement barrel?

They show barrels for $50, but are currently "sold out" which means
not very much actually...give em a call. and see. Also...its very
easy to install a blank barrel in this rifle. Very easy.

They are not particularly uncommon in some areas, and as the design is
a take-down..simply replacing the barrel should be quite easy

As for the liner...Id go with the Long Rifle liner. It is properly
throated and properly chambered (usually) for the longer
cartridge..which the Short is not.

Acraglass is very easy to do, will not change the color of your
current bluing in the slightest and will last as long as the rifle
does. I prefer the glue method in any rimfire, and some light
centerfires.


Gunner

--
"Confronting Liberals with the facts of reality is very much akin to
clubbing baby seals. It gets boring after a while, but because Liberals are
so stupid it is easy work." Steven M. Barry

Sounds like someone who didn't want the rifle to
be fired. Plugging the muzzle risks explosive
barrel fragments.

When I was a boy, the family next door (traditional
Jews) had a rifle in the attic, with the barrel totally
plugged. Not sure I ever looked to see what kind
of rifle. I guess they don't believe in working fire
arms.

Can you remove the stock and action, heat the barrel,
and drive the obstruction with a rod from the back?

I'm not a gunsmith. But, my guess is the LR barrel
liner will handle shorts, but not the reverse.

Adhesive, I have no knowledge to share.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...
Greetings all you Gundamentalists,
I have an old Remington Model 6 .22 caliber rifle. I like this rifle
but it needs lots of work. When I bought it it had a steel rod driven
in the muzzle end about 2 inches deep. I don't know who did this
damage or why. Anyway, it needs to be relined. Among other things. I'm
going to buy a barrel liner from Brownells. I want to shoot mostly CB
shorts from this rifle, but may want to shoot .22LR rounds also.
Brownells sells two types of liners, one rifled for .22LR and the
other for shorts. Since I will be shooting both types of rounds which
liner should I buy? Also, I can use either Acraglas or solder to
install the liner. I can solder well but have no experience with
Acraglas. Any opinions on which method would be best?
Thanks,
Eric

On Sun, 23 Sep 2012 12:30:34 -0700, Gunner wrote:

On Sun, 23 Sep 2012 09:53:25 -0700, wrote:

Greetings all you Gundamentalists,
I have an old Remington Model 6 .22 caliber rifle. I like this rifle but
it needs lots of work. When I bought it it had a steel rod driven in the
muzzle end about 2 inches deep. I don't know who did this damage or why.
Anyway, it needs to be relined. Among other things. I'm going to buy a
barrel liner from Brownells. I want to shoot mostly CB shorts from this
rifle, but may want to shoot .22LR rounds also. Brownells sells two
types of liners, one rifled for .22LR and the other for shorts. Since I
will be shooting both types of rounds which liner should I buy? Also, I
can use either Acraglas or solder to install the liner. I can solder
well but have no experience with Acraglas. Any opinions on which method
would be best? Thanks,
Eric


Have you checked with Gun Parts and others for a replacement barrel?

They show barrels for $50, but are currently "sold out" which means not
very much actually...give em a call. and see. Also...its very easy to
install a blank barrel in this rifle. Very easy.

They are not particularly uncommon in some areas, and as the design is a
take-down..simply replacing the barrel should be quite easy

As for the liner...Id go with the Long Rifle liner. It is properly
throated and properly chambered (usually) for the longer
cartridge..which the Short is not.

Acraglass is very easy to do, will not change the color of your current
bluing in the slightest and will last as long as the rifle does. I
prefer the glue method in any rimfire, and some light centerfires.

So, when you reline a new barrel do you have to drill out the old one to
accept the liner?

Isn't that a process that's fraught with possibilities to turn a straight-
shooting gun into something that gives anyone in the world the ability to
shoot as accurately as me?

(I _can_ hit the side of a barn with a shotgun. But I may as well use
any old metal pipe: it's just as effective, and it doesn't bend up the
shotgun.)

Or do you drill out the barrel enough oversize that the straightness is
established by the liner?

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

On Sun, 23 Sep 2012 09:53:25 -0700, wrote:

Greetings all you Gundamentalists,
I have an old Remington Model 6 .22 caliber rifle. I like this rifle
but it needs lots of work. When I bought it it had a steel rod driven
in the muzzle end about 2 inches deep. I don't know who did this
damage or why. Anyway, it needs to be relined. Among other things. I'm
going to buy a barrel liner from Brownells. I want to shoot mostly CB
shorts from this rifle, but may want to shoot .22LR rounds also.
Brownells sells two types of liners, one rifled for .22LR and the
other for shorts. Since I will be shooting both types of rounds which
liner should I buy? Also, I can use either Acraglas or solder to
install the liner. I can solder well but have no experience with
Acraglas. Any opinions on which method would be best?
Thanks,
Eric
===============

If you have the ability to bore the barrel for a liner, why
not just drill the plugged end out to 9/32 or 5/16 X 2
inches deep to remove the steel plug to start. This is
equivalent to simply cutting off the end, but retains the
original look, front sight, etc. and the price is right.
This will give you a chance to shoot the rifle before you
put a lot of time and money in to it, and may be adequate
for your needs if you are shooting 22 CB caps or shorts.
Sort of an extremely deep rebate crowning.


--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

On Mon, 24 Sep 2012 20:21:07 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Sun, 23 Sep 2012 12:30:34 -0700, Gunner wrote:

On Sun, 23 Sep 2012 09:53:25 -0700, wrote:

Greetings all you Gundamentalists,
I have an old Remington Model 6 .22 caliber rifle. I like this rifle but
it needs lots of work. When I bought it it had a steel rod driven in the
muzzle end about 2 inches deep. I don't know who did this damage or why.
Anyway, it needs to be relined. Among other things. I'm going to buy a
barrel liner from Brownells. I want to shoot mostly CB shorts from this
rifle, but may want to shoot .22LR rounds also. Brownells sells two
types of liners, one rifled for .22LR and the other for shorts. Since I
will be shooting both types of rounds which liner should I buy? Also, I
can use either Acraglas or solder to install the liner. I can solder
well but have no experience with Acraglas. Any opinions on which method
would be best? Thanks,
Eric


Have you checked with Gun Parts and others for a replacement barrel?

They show barrels for $50, but are currently "sold out" which means not
very much actually...give em a call. and see. Also...its very easy to
install a blank barrel in this rifle. Very easy.

They are not particularly uncommon in some areas, and as the design is a
take-down..simply replacing the barrel should be quite easy

As for the liner...Id go with the Long Rifle liner. It is properly
throated and properly chambered (usually) for the longer
cartridge..which the Short is not.

Acraglass is very easy to do, will not change the color of your current
bluing in the slightest and will last as long as the rifle does. I
prefer the glue method in any rimfire, and some light centerfires.

So, when you reline a new barrel do you have to drill out the old one to
accept the liner?

Yes, of course.

Isn't that a process that's fraught with possibilities to turn a straight-
shooting gun into something that gives anyone in the world the ability to
shoot as accurately as me?

Yes and no. The drill tends to follow the existing bore and, depending
on who does the work, the drilled hole may well be reamed which helps
straighten it.

Crooked barrels aren't really uncommon. See
http://www.forgeofinnovation.org/spr...aightener.html

(I _can_ hit the side of a barn with a shotgun. But I may as well use
any old metal pipe: it's just as effective, and it doesn't bend up the
shotgun.)

Or do you drill out the barrel enough oversize that the straightness is
established by the liner?

The liner is not really very stiff. It cannot be depended on to
establish straightness.
--
Cheers,
John B.

On Tue, 25 Sep 2012 06:36:47 -0500, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

On Sun, 23 Sep 2012 09:53:25 -0700, wrote:

Greetings all you Gundamentalists,
I have an old Remington Model 6 .22 caliber rifle. I like this rifle
but it needs lots of work. When I bought it it had a steel rod driven
in the muzzle end about 2 inches deep. I don't know who did this
damage or why. Anyway, it needs to be relined. Among other things. I'm
going to buy a barrel liner from Brownells. I want to shoot mostly CB
shorts from this rifle, but may want to shoot .22LR rounds also.
Brownells sells two types of liners, one rifled for .22LR and the
other for shorts. Since I will be shooting both types of rounds which
liner should I buy? Also, I can use either Acraglas or solder to
install the liner. I can solder well but have no experience with
Acraglas. Any opinions on which method would be best?
Thanks,
Eric
===============

If you have the ability to bore the barrel for a liner, why
not just drill the plugged end out to 9/32 or 5/16 X 2
inches deep to remove the steel plug to start. This is
equivalent to simply cutting off the end, but retains the
original look, front sight, etc. and the price is right.
This will give you a chance to shoot the rifle before you
put a lot of time and money in to it, and may be adequate
for your needs if you are shooting 22 CB caps or shorts.
Sort of an extremely deep rebate crowning.
I did this long ago. The damage extends into the barrel at least 4
inches. The bullets hit the target sideways. So it is obvious that the
bullets are tumbling. This is my reason for installi9ng a liner.
Eric

On Tue, 25 Sep 2012 06:36:47 -0500, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

On Sun, 23 Sep 2012 09:53:25 -0700, wrote:

Greetings all you Gundamentalists,
I have an old Remington Model 6 .22 caliber rifle. I like this rifle
but it needs lots of work. When I bought it it had a steel rod driven
in the muzzle end about 2 inches deep. I don't know who did this
damage or why. Anyway, it needs to be relined. Among other things. I'm
going to buy a barrel liner from Brownells. I want to shoot mostly CB
shorts from this rifle, but may want to shoot .22LR rounds also.
Brownells sells two types of liners, one rifled for .22LR and the
other for shorts. Since I will be shooting both types of rounds which
liner should I buy? Also, I can use either Acraglas or solder to
install the liner. I can solder well but have no experience with
Acraglas. Any opinions on which method would be best?
Thanks,
Eric
===============

If you have the ability to bore the barrel for a liner, why
not just drill the plugged end out to 9/32 or 5/16 X 2
inches deep to remove the steel plug to start. This is
equivalent to simply cutting off the end, but retains the
original look, front sight, etc. and the price is right.
This will give you a chance to shoot the rifle before you
put a lot of time and money in to it, and may be adequate
for your needs if you are shooting 22 CB caps or shorts.
Sort of an extremely deep rebate crowning.

True indeed and rather common in this sort of situation, be it rimfire
or centerfire. This was a very common fix for miltiary arms with bad
rifling at the muzzle..the effects of steel cleaning rods applied too
often from the wrong end

Gunner

Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends
of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli

On Tue, 25 Sep 2012 08:44:22 -0700, wrote:

On Tue, 25 Sep 2012 06:36:47 -0500, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

On Sun, 23 Sep 2012 09:53:25 -0700, wrote:

Greetings all you Gundamentalists,
I have an old Remington Model 6 .22 caliber rifle. I like this rifle
but it needs lots of work. When I bought it it had a steel rod driven
in the muzzle end about 2 inches deep. I don't know who did this
damage or why. Anyway, it needs to be relined. Among other things. I'm
going to buy a barrel liner from Brownells. I want to shoot mostly CB
shorts from this rifle, but may want to shoot .22LR rounds also.
Brownells sells two types of liners, one rifled for .22LR and the
other for shorts. Since I will be shooting both types of rounds which
liner should I buy? Also, I can use either Acraglas or solder to
install the liner. I can solder well but have no experience with
Acraglas. Any opinions on which method would be best?
Thanks,
Eric
===============

If you have the ability to bore the barrel for a liner, why
not just drill the plugged end out to 9/32 or 5/16 X 2
inches deep to remove the steel plug to start. This is
equivalent to simply cutting off the end, but retains the
original look, front sight, etc. and the price is right.
This will give you a chance to shoot the rifle before you
put a lot of time and money in to it, and may be adequate
for your needs if you are shooting 22 CB caps or shorts.
Sort of an extremely deep rebate crowning.
I did this long ago. The damage extends into the barrel at least 4
inches. The bullets hit the target sideways. So it is obvious that the
bullets are tumbling. This is my reason for installi9ng a liner.
Eric
====================

It may be helpful to go deeper and/or bigger with the
counter bore. some URLs that may be of assistance:

FWIW -- did you try the ammunition in another rifle to
verify that its not the problem?

http://riflestocks.tripod.com/targetcrown.html
snip
Should the bore exit not be consistent about its perimeter
gases escaping unevenly around the bullet base will cause
bullet yaw and loss of precision.
snip
{Very smooth translation between bore and counter bore is
required for accuracy. A patch with fine valve grinding
compound and a lot of elbow grease can polish out the
transition and bore. How is the extraction? i.e. the
chamber/throat? -- UG}


http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

Reaming the counter bore to improve the finish could also be
helpful.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

Let the group know what you decide. Always good to hear how
a real live person makes out on a project like this.


--
Unka' George

"Gold is the money of kings,
silver is the money of gentlemen,
barter is the money of peasants,
but debt is the money of slaves"

-Norm Franz, "Money and Wealth in the New Millenium"

On Tue, 25 Sep 2012 13:38:50 -0500, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Sep 2012 08:44:22 -0700, wrote:

On Tue, 25 Sep 2012 06:36:47 -0500, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

On Sun, 23 Sep 2012 09:53:25 -0700, wrote:

Greetings all you Gundamentalists,
I have an old Remington Model 6 .22 caliber rifle. I like this rifle
but it needs lots of work. When I bought it it had a steel rod driven
in the muzzle end about 2 inches deep. I don't know who did this
damage or why. Anyway, it needs to be relined. Among other things. I'm
going to buy a barrel liner from Brownells. I want to shoot mostly CB
shorts from this rifle, but may want to shoot .22LR rounds also.
Brownells sells two types of liners, one rifled for .22LR and the
other for shorts. Since I will be shooting both types of rounds which
liner should I buy? Also, I can use either Acraglas or solder to
install the liner. I can solder well but have no experience with
Acraglas. Any opinions on which method would be best?
Thanks,
Eric
===============

If you have the ability to bore the barrel for a liner, why
not just drill the plugged end out to 9/32 or 5/16 X 2
inches deep to remove the steel plug to start. This is
equivalent to simply cutting off the end, but retains the
original look, front sight, etc. and the price is right.
This will give you a chance to shoot the rifle before you
put a lot of time and money in to it, and may be adequate
for your needs if you are shooting 22 CB caps or shorts.
Sort of an extremely deep rebate crowning.
I did this long ago. The damage extends into the barrel at least 4
inches. The bullets hit the target sideways. So it is obvious that the
bullets are tumbling. This is my reason for installi9ng a liner.
Eric
====================

It may be helpful to go deeper and/or bigger with the
counter bore. some URLs that may be of assistance:

FWIW -- did you try the ammunition in another rifle to
verify that its not the problem?

http://riflestocks.tripod.com/targetcrown.html
snip
Should the bore exit not be consistent about its perimeter
gases escaping unevenly around the bullet base will cause
bullet yaw and loss of precision.
snip
{Very smooth translation between bore and counter bore is
required for accuracy. A patch with fine valve grinding
compound and a lot of elbow grease can polish out the
transition and bore. How is the extraction? i.e. the
chamber/throat? -- UG}


http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

Reaming the counter bore to improve the finish could also be
helpful.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

Let the group know what you decide. Always good to hear how
a real live person makes out on a project like this.
The damage to the rifling is on one side only. The rifling is actually
missing. The damaged area is quite long. The rounds that come out of
the rifle tumbling shoot just fine in my other rifles. I have decided
to use Acraglas to bond the liner into the rifle. I'm going to chamber
the rifle for Longs and shoot mostly CB Longs. I don't know yet if I
should get the liner with a twist for Longs or Shorts. I think the
twist designation is for short or long bullets, not short or long
shells. I'll ask Brownells or the liner maker.
Eric

wrote in message
...
...
The damage to the rifling is on one side only. The rifling is
actually
missing. The damaged area is quite long. ...
Eric

Can you center the barrel in a lathe and bore that area out to
equalize the damage, so the liner drill isn't forced sideways?

On Tue, 25 Sep 2012 18:43:42 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
...
The damage to the rifling is on one side only. The rifling is
actually
missing. The damaged area is quite long. ...
Eric

Can you center the barrel in a lathe and bore that area out to
equalize the damage, so the liner drill isn't forced sideways?


I can do that, and might. I may also be able to get away with a long
pilot on the drill used to open up the bore for the liner. What I'll
probably do is bore the muzzle to the .316, which is the size the
barrel needs to be opened up to, about an inch deep. Then use a long
piloted drill. I will be drilling from both ends, which is what
Brownells says to do.
Eric