On Saturday, August 30, 1997 at 1:00:00 AM UTC-6, mlightner wrote:
I recently acquired a DC welder with the name H C Scott Industries on it
- it has what looks like a car alternator mounted inside an 8" x 8" x12"
frame, and has an outlet for
plugging power tools into125VDC, (rated at 12 amps). The welder portion
of it consists
of two terminals for the leads and a dial that selects from 35 to 135
amps. I had no luck
finding the manufacturer of it, though there is an address still
readable (a po box in New Mexico) on the housing.

Has anyone out there had any experience with one of these? The unit
didn't come with
a motor, and has a few wires I need to ID, but all the diodes seem to
read ok. The bearings also seem allright, does anyone out there have
any suggestions (or better yet
technical literature on it) as to rpm or hp needed to run it?

Thanks for any light shed on this subject.

josh

Yeah, it take a 8HP. I have the same thing.I put a Brigg&Statton engine

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 10:32:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, August 30, 1997 at 1:00:00 AM UTC-6, mlightner wrote:
I recently acquired a DC welder with the name H C Scott Industries on it
- it has what looks like a car alternator mounted inside an 8" x 8" x12"
frame, and has an outlet for
plugging power tools into125VDC, (rated at 12 amps). The welder portion
of it consists
of two terminals for the leads and a dial that selects from 35 to 135
amps. I had no luck
finding the manufacturer of it, though there is an address still
readable (a po box in New Mexico) on the housing.

Esab used to build them for Scott and several others.


Has anyone out there had any experience with one of these? The unit
didn't come with
a motor, and has a few wires I need to ID, but all the diodes seem to
read ok. The bearings also seem allright, does anyone out there have
any suggestions (or better yet
technical literature on it) as to rpm or hp needed to run it?

I have the specs and manual for it, but the download site is not in my
bookmarks for some reason. Try this:
http://manuals.esab.com/_private/Lib...f?noCache=7055


Thanks for any light shed on this subject.

josh

Yeah, it take a 8HP. I have the same thing.I put a Brigg&Statton engine

8hp? I thought they ran on 5hp alright.


--
The business of America is not business. Neither is it war. The business
of America is justice and securing the blessings of liberty.
-- George F. Will

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 10:32:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, August 30, 1997 at 1:00:00 AM UTC-6, mlightner wrote:
I recently acquired a DC welder with the name H C Scott Industries on it
- it has what looks like a car alternator mounted inside an 8" x 8" x12"
frame, and has an outlet for
plugging power tools into125VDC, (rated at 12 amps). The welder portion
of it consists
of two terminals for the leads and a dial that selects from 35 to 135
amps. I had no luck
finding the manufacturer of it, though there is an address still
readable (a po box in New Mexico) on the housing.

Oops, I gave you the french/Spanish version. The Swedish/Brit/Ger ver:
http://manuals.esab.com/_private/Lib...f?noCache=7055

--
The business of America is not business. Neither is it war. The business
of America is justice and securing the blessings of liberty.
-- George F. Will

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 10:32:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, August 30, 1997 at 1:00:00 AM UTC-6, mlightner wrote:
I recently acquired a DC welder with the name H C Scott Industries on it
- it has what looks like a car alternator mounted inside an 8" x 8" x12"
frame, and has an outlet for
plugging power tools into125VDC, (rated at 12 amps). The welder portion
of it consists
of two terminals for the leads and a dial that selects from 35 to 135
amps. I had no luck
finding the manufacturer of it, though there is an address still
readable (a po box in New Mexico) on the housing.

Has anyone out there had any experience with one of these? The unit
didn't come with
a motor, and has a few wires I need to ID, but all the diodes seem to
read ok. The bearings also seem allright, does anyone out there have
any suggestions (or better yet
technical literature on it) as to rpm or hp needed to run it?

Thanks for any light shed on this subject.

josh

Yeah, it take a 8HP. I have the same thing.I put a Brigg&Statton engine


Larry..you have one of these as well..pay attention...

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 11:11:31 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 10:32:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, August 30, 1997 at 1:00:00 AM UTC-6, mlightner wrote:
I recently acquired a DC welder with the name H C Scott Industries on it
- it has what looks like a car alternator mounted inside an 8" x 8" x12"
frame, and has an outlet for
plugging power tools into125VDC, (rated at 12 amps). The welder portion
of it consists
of two terminals for the leads and a dial that selects from 35 to 135
amps. I had no luck
finding the manufacturer of it, though there is an address still
readable (a po box in New Mexico) on the housing.

Has anyone out there had any experience with one of these? The unit
didn't come with
a motor, and has a few wires I need to ID, but all the diodes seem to
read ok. The bearings also seem allright, does anyone out there have
any suggestions (or better yet
technical literature on it) as to rpm or hp needed to run it?

Thanks for any light shed on this subject.

josh

Yeah, it take a 8HP. I have the same thing.I put a Brigg&Statton engine


Larry..you have one of these as well..pay attention...

I did, and I gave him the link to a manual. (Now who's not paying
attention?) What all can I run on a DC gen like that? I've never
really looked into it. I plan to build a 12v regulator to charge my
batteries with it as a backup charger.

One of these days, after the retirement, someone in Grass Pants will
mosey down to Glenn's in Medford and we'll rig up a triple mount
platform for my spare Briggs 2100 (13hp) so I can switch off from the
little Scott generator/welder to an air compressor to a trash pump.
HF's 5hp head can put out 15.2 CFM @ 90 PSI, up to 145psi, and runs at
655rpm. http://tinyurl.com/7b9n3ch

Gonna sell my old pressure washer to finance the twin cylinder cast
iron compressor head. I already have the 2" motor-driven trash pump.

This project happens after I sit down and figure out ratios so we can
turn a triple sheave drive pulley. He doesn't have a shaper, but I'm
pretty sure he has a set of broaches for cutting the keyway. Tubal
Cain has a good video on it. http://tinyurl.com/qxblhz4 Last year, I
found a $12.50 electronic tacho for fine tuning. Glenn has a little
forge set up, so we can actually cast this beastie in aluminum.
_BILLET_, BABY! g

Lots of figuring and logistics to go yet, but it will be a fun and
useful project.

--
My desire to be well-informed is currently
at odds with my desire to remain sane. --Sipkess

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 14:17:45 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 11:11:31 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 10:32:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, August 30, 1997 at 1:00:00 AM UTC-6, mlightner wrote:
I recently acquired a DC welder with the name H C Scott Industries on it
- it has what looks like a car alternator mounted inside an 8" x 8" x12"
frame, and has an outlet for
plugging power tools into125VDC, (rated at 12 amps). The welder portion
of it consists
of two terminals for the leads and a dial that selects from 35 to 135
amps. I had no luck
finding the manufacturer of it, though there is an address still
readable (a po box in New Mexico) on the housing.

Has anyone out there had any experience with one of these? The unit
didn't come with
a motor, and has a few wires I need to ID, but all the diodes seem to
read ok. The bearings also seem allright, does anyone out there have
any suggestions (or better yet
technical literature on it) as to rpm or hp needed to run it?

Thanks for any light shed on this subject.

josh

Yeah, it take a 8HP. I have the same thing.I put a Brigg&Statton engine


Larry..you have one of these as well..pay attention...

I did, and I gave him the link to a manual. (Now who's not paying
attention?) What all can I run on a DC gen like that? I've never
really looked into it. I plan to build a 12v regulator to charge my
batteries with it as a backup charger.

One of these days, after the retirement, someone in Grass Pants will
mosey down to Glenn's in Medford and we'll rig up a triple mount
platform for my spare Briggs 2100 (13hp) so I can switch off from the
little Scott generator/welder to an air compressor to a trash pump.
HF's 5hp head can put out 15.2 CFM @ 90 PSI, up to 145psi, and runs at
655rpm. http://tinyurl.com/7b9n3ch

Gonna sell my old pressure washer to finance the twin cylinder cast
iron compressor head. I already have the 2" motor-driven trash pump.

This project happens after I sit down and figure out ratios so we can
turn a triple sheave drive pulley. He doesn't have a shaper, but I'm
pretty sure he has a set of broaches for cutting the keyway. Tubal
Cain has a good video on it. http://tinyurl.com/qxblhz4 Last year, I
found a $12.50 electronic tacho for fine tuning. Glenn has a little
forge set up, so we can actually cast this beastie in aluminum.
_BILLET_, BABY! g

Lots of figuring and logistics to go yet, but it will be a fun and
useful project.

Ive got a number of triple and double sheave pulleys. What OD do you
need?

Gunner

SNIP

This project happens after I sit down and figure out ratios so we can
turn a triple sheave drive pulley. He doesn't have a shaper, but I'm
pretty sure he has a set of broaches for cutting the keyway. Tubal
Cain has a good video on it. http://tinyurl.com/qxblhz4 Last year, I
found a $12.50 electronic tacho for fine tuning. Glenn has a little
forge set up, so we can actually cast this beastie in aluminum.
_BILLET_, BABY! g
I have always thought that billet meant forged or rolled material. as
oipposed to a chunk of cast material. So a chunk of cast material
could be machined into a part but the part could not be said to have
been machined from billet unless that cast chunk had first been forged
or rolled into a billet. Certainly a person can tell if the chunk
being machined is in the as cast form or in the rolled ("billet") or
forged ("billet") form.
Eric

Lots of figuring and logistics to go yet, but it will be a fun and
useful project.

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 19:13:00 -0700, wrote:

SNIP

This project happens after I sit down and figure out ratios so we can
turn a triple sheave drive pulley. He doesn't have a shaper, but I'm
pretty sure he has a set of broaches for cutting the keyway. Tubal
Cain has a good video on it. http://tinyurl.com/qxblhz4 Last year, I
found a $12.50 electronic tacho for fine tuning. Glenn has a little
forge set up, so we can actually cast this beastie in aluminum.
_BILLET_, BABY! g
I have always thought that billet meant forged or rolled material. as
oipposed to a chunk of cast material. So a chunk of cast material
could be machined into a part but the part could not be said to have
been machined from billet unless that cast chunk had first been forged
or rolled into a billet. Certainly a person can tell if the chunk
being machined is in the as cast form or in the rolled ("billet") or
forged ("billet") form.
Eric

A billet of steel is a rolled section that is thick for its width; a
square or fat rectangle. It's typically 6 in. to 18 in. on the long
side.

A billet of aluminum is a cast log, up to 30 in. diameter or even
larger, but more typically 18 in. diameter, that is generally useless
until it's cold-rolled to refine the grain.

The term has been abused by marketers for several decades. They have
no idea what they're talking about most of the time.

--
Ed Huntress


Lots of figuring and logistics to go yet, but it will be a fun and
useful project.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 11:11:31 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 10:32:10 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Saturday, August 30, 1997 at 1:00:00 AM UTC-6, mlightner wrote:
I recently acquired a DC welder with the name H C Scott
Industries on it
- it has what looks like a car alternator mounted inside an 8" x
8" x12"
frame, and has an outlet for
plugging power tools into125VDC, (rated at 12 amps). The welder
portion
of it consists
of two terminals for the leads and a dial that selects from 35
to 135
amps. I had no luck
finding the manufacturer of it, though there is an address still
readable (a po box in New Mexico) on the housing.

Has anyone out there had any experience with one of these? The
unit
didn't come with
a motor, and has a few wires I need to ID, but all the diodes
seem to
read ok. The bearings also seem allright, does anyone out there
have
any suggestions (or better yet
technical literature on it) as to rpm or hp needed to run it?

Thanks for any light shed on this subject.

josh

Yeah, it take a 8HP. I have the same thing.I put a Brigg&Statton
engine


Larry..you have one of these as well..pay attention...

I did, and I gave him the link to a manual. (Now who's not paying
attention?) What all can I run on a DC gen like that? I've never
really looked into it. I plan to build a 12v regulator to charge my
batteries with it as a backup charger.

One of these days, after the retirement, someone in Grass Pants will
mosey down to Glenn's in Medford and we'll rig up a triple mount
platform for my spare Briggs 2100 (13hp) so I can switch off from
the
little Scott generator/welder to an air compressor to a trash pump.
HF's 5hp head can put out 15.2 CFM @ 90 PSI, up to 145psi, and runs
at
655rpm. http://tinyurl.com/7b9n3ch

Gonna sell my old pressure washer to finance the twin cylinder cast
iron compressor head. I already have the 2" motor-driven trash
pump.

This project happens after I sit down and figure out ratios so we
can
turn a triple sheave drive pulley. He doesn't have a shaper, but
I'm
pretty sure he has a set of broaches for cutting the keyway. Tubal
Cain has a good video on it. http://tinyurl.com/qxblhz4 Last year,
I
found a $12.50 electronic tacho for fine tuning. Glenn has a little
forge set up, so we can actually cast this beastie in aluminum.
_BILLET_, BABY! g

Lots of figuring and logistics to go yet, but it will be a fun and
useful project.

The 5.5 HP gas engine I swap around has an L095 on its shaft and on
the loads:
http://www.lovejoy-inc.com/products/...couplings.aspx

-jsw

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 18:11:37 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 14:17:45 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 11:11:31 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 10:32:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, August 30, 1997 at 1:00:00 AM UTC-6, mlightner wrote:
I recently acquired a DC welder with the name H C Scott Industries on it
- it has what looks like a car alternator mounted inside an 8" x 8" x12"
frame, and has an outlet for
plugging power tools into125VDC, (rated at 12 amps). The welder portion
of it consists
of two terminals for the leads and a dial that selects from 35 to 135
amps. I had no luck
finding the manufacturer of it, though there is an address still
readable (a po box in New Mexico) on the housing.

Has anyone out there had any experience with one of these? The unit
didn't come with
a motor, and has a few wires I need to ID, but all the diodes seem to
read ok. The bearings also seem allright, does anyone out there have
any suggestions (or better yet
technical literature on it) as to rpm or hp needed to run it?

Thanks for any light shed on this subject.

josh

Yeah, it take a 8HP. I have the same thing.I put a Brigg&Statton engine


Larry..you have one of these as well..pay attention...

I did, and I gave him the link to a manual. (Now who's not paying
attention?) What all can I run on a DC gen like that? I've never
really looked into it. I plan to build a 12v regulator to charge my
batteries with it as a backup charger.

One of these days, after the retirement, someone in Grass Pants will
mosey down to Glenn's in Medford and we'll rig up a triple mount
platform for my spare Briggs 2100 (13hp) so I can switch off from the
little Scott generator/welder to an air compressor to a trash pump.
HF's 5hp head can put out 15.2 CFM @ 90 PSI, up to 145psi, and runs at
655rpm. http://tinyurl.com/7b9n3ch

Gonna sell my old pressure washer to finance the twin cylinder cast
iron compressor head. I already have the 2" motor-driven trash pump.

This project happens after I sit down and figure out ratios so we can
turn a triple sheave drive pulley. He doesn't have a shaper, but I'm
pretty sure he has a set of broaches for cutting the keyway. Tubal
Cain has a good video on it. http://tinyurl.com/qxblhz4 Last year, I
found a $12.50 electronic tacho for fine tuning. Glenn has a little
forge set up, so we can actually cast this beastie in aluminum.
_BILLET_, BABY! g

Lots of figuring and logistics to go yet, but it will be a fun and
useful project.

Ive got a number of triple and double sheave pulleys. What OD do you
need?

Read up 2 paragraphs starting with "This project happens AFTER..."

Did you get my email shipping?

--
My desire to be well-informed is currently
at odds with my desire to remain sane. --Sipkess

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 19:13:00 -0700, wrote:

SNIP

This project happens after I sit down and figure out ratios so we can
turn a triple sheave drive pulley. He doesn't have a shaper, but I'm
pretty sure he has a set of broaches for cutting the keyway. Tubal
Cain has a good video on it. http://tinyurl.com/qxblhz4 Last year, I
found a $12.50 electronic tacho for fine tuning. Glenn has a little
forge set up, so we can actually cast this beastie in aluminum.
_BILLET_, BABY! g
I have always thought that billet meant forged or rolled material. as
oipposed to a chunk of cast material. So a chunk of cast material
could be machined into a part but the part could not be said to have
been machined from billet unless that cast chunk had first been forged
or rolled into a billet. Certainly a person can tell if the chunk
being machined is in the as cast form or in the rolled ("billet") or
forged ("billet") form.

I was keeping in line with the total disregard folks have had in using
the word "billet" for the past decade or so.

--
My desire to be well-informed is currently
at odds with my desire to remain sane. --Sipkess

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 22:40:37 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 11:11:31 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 10:32:10 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Saturday, August 30, 1997 at 1:00:00 AM UTC-6, mlightner wrote:
I recently acquired a DC welder with the name H C Scott
Industries on it
- it has what looks like a car alternator mounted inside an 8" x
8" x12"
frame, and has an outlet for
plugging power tools into125VDC, (rated at 12 amps). The welder
portion
of it consists
of two terminals for the leads and a dial that selects from 35
to 135
amps. I had no luck
finding the manufacturer of it, though there is an address still
readable (a po box in New Mexico) on the housing.

Has anyone out there had any experience with one of these? The
unit
didn't come with
a motor, and has a few wires I need to ID, but all the diodes
seem to
read ok. The bearings also seem allright, does anyone out there
have
any suggestions (or better yet
technical literature on it) as to rpm or hp needed to run it?

Thanks for any light shed on this subject.

josh

Yeah, it take a 8HP. I have the same thing.I put a Brigg&Statton
engine


Larry..you have one of these as well..pay attention...

I did, and I gave him the link to a manual. (Now who's not paying
attention?) What all can I run on a DC gen like that? I've never
really looked into it. I plan to build a 12v regulator to charge my
batteries with it as a backup charger.

One of these days, after the retirement, someone in Grass Pants will
mosey down to Glenn's in Medford and we'll rig up a triple mount
platform for my spare Briggs 2100 (13hp) so I can switch off from
the
little Scott generator/welder to an air compressor to a trash pump.
HF's 5hp head can put out 15.2 CFM @ 90 PSI, up to 145psi, and runs
at
655rpm. http://tinyurl.com/7b9n3ch

Gonna sell my old pressure washer to finance the twin cylinder cast
iron compressor head. I already have the 2" motor-driven trash
pump.

This project happens after I sit down and figure out ratios so we
can
turn a triple sheave drive pulley. He doesn't have a shaper, but
I'm
pretty sure he has a set of broaches for cutting the keyway. Tubal
Cain has a good video on it. http://tinyurl.com/qxblhz4 Last year,
I
found a $12.50 electronic tacho for fine tuning. Glenn has a little
forge set up, so we can actually cast this beastie in aluminum.
_BILLET_, BABY! g

Lots of figuring and logistics to go yet, but it will be a fun and
useful project.

The 5.5 HP gas engine I swap around has an L095 on its shaft and on
the loads:
http://www.lovejoy-inc.com/products/...couplings.aspx

I might use that style for the pump, thanks. I doubt they're free,
though. We used to use the laser-cut spiral types at one of the
places I used to work. Li'l 1/4" jobs. Cute.

--
My desire to be well-informed is currently
at odds with my desire to remain sane. --Sipkess

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 21:39:27 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 18:11:37 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 14:17:45 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 11:11:31 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 10:32:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, August 30, 1997 at 1:00:00 AM UTC-6, mlightner wrote:
I recently acquired a DC welder with the name H C Scott Industries on it
- it has what looks like a car alternator mounted inside an 8" x 8" x12"
frame, and has an outlet for
plugging power tools into125VDC, (rated at 12 amps). The welder portion
of it consists
of two terminals for the leads and a dial that selects from 35 to 135
amps. I had no luck
finding the manufacturer of it, though there is an address still
readable (a po box in New Mexico) on the housing.

Has anyone out there had any experience with one of these? The unit
didn't come with
a motor, and has a few wires I need to ID, but all the diodes seem to
read ok. The bearings also seem allright, does anyone out there have
any suggestions (or better yet
technical literature on it) as to rpm or hp needed to run it?

Thanks for any light shed on this subject.

josh

Yeah, it take a 8HP. I have the same thing.I put a Brigg&Statton engine


Larry..you have one of these as well..pay attention...

I did, and I gave him the link to a manual. (Now who's not paying
attention?) What all can I run on a DC gen like that? I've never
really looked into it. I plan to build a 12v regulator to charge my
batteries with it as a backup charger.

One of these days, after the retirement, someone in Grass Pants will
mosey down to Glenn's in Medford and we'll rig up a triple mount
platform for my spare Briggs 2100 (13hp) so I can switch off from the
little Scott generator/welder to an air compressor to a trash pump.
HF's 5hp head can put out 15.2 CFM @ 90 PSI, up to 145psi, and runs at
655rpm. http://tinyurl.com/7b9n3ch

Gonna sell my old pressure washer to finance the twin cylinder cast
iron compressor head. I already have the 2" motor-driven trash pump.

This project happens after I sit down and figure out ratios so we can
turn a triple sheave drive pulley. He doesn't have a shaper, but I'm
pretty sure he has a set of broaches for cutting the keyway. Tubal
Cain has a good video on it. http://tinyurl.com/qxblhz4 Last year, I
found a $12.50 electronic tacho for fine tuning. Glenn has a little
forge set up, so we can actually cast this beastie in aluminum.
_BILLET_, BABY! g

Lots of figuring and logistics to go yet, but it will be a fun and
useful project.

Ive got a number of triple and double sheave pulleys. What OD do you
need?

Read up 2 paragraphs starting with "This project happens AFTER..."

Did you get my email shipping?

No..did you send one? I didnt get back until late last night. I was
quite busy all week. Ill check and see if I got it.

Gunner

On 7/18/2015 10:46 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 21:39:27 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 18:11:37 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 14:17:45 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 11:11:31 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 10:32:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, August 30, 1997 at 1:00:00 AM UTC-6, mlightner wrote:
I recently acquired a DC welder with the name H C Scott Industries on it
- it has what looks like a car alternator mounted inside an 8" x 8" x12"
frame, and has an outlet for
plugging power tools into125VDC, (rated at 12 amps). The welder portion
of it consists
of two terminals for the leads and a dial that selects from 35 to 135
amps. I had no luck
finding the manufacturer of it, though there is an address still
readable (a po box in New Mexico) on the housing.

Has anyone out there had any experience with one of these? The unit
didn't come with
a motor, and has a few wires I need to ID, but all the diodes seem to
read ok. The bearings also seem allright, does anyone out there have
any suggestions (or better yet
technical literature on it) as to rpm or hp needed to run it?

Thanks for any light shed on this subject.

josh

Yeah, it take a 8HP. I have the same thing.I put a Brigg&Statton engine


Larry..you have one of these as well..pay attention...

I did, and I gave him the link to a manual. (Now who's not paying
attention?) What all can I run on a DC gen like that? I've never
really looked into it. I plan to build a 12v regulator to charge my
batteries with it as a backup charger.

One of these days, after the retirement, someone in Grass Pants will
mosey down to Glenn's in Medford and we'll rig up a triple mount
platform for my spare Briggs 2100 (13hp) so I can switch off from the
little Scott generator/welder to an air compressor to a trash pump.
HF's 5hp head can put out 15.2 CFM @ 90 PSI, up to 145psi, and runs at
655rpm. http://tinyurl.com/7b9n3ch

Gonna sell my old pressure washer to finance the twin cylinder cast
iron compressor head. I already have the 2" motor-driven trash pump.

This project happens after I sit down and figure out ratios so we can
turn a triple sheave drive pulley. He doesn't have a shaper, but I'm
pretty sure he has a set of broaches for cutting the keyway. Tubal
Cain has a good video on it. http://tinyurl.com/qxblhz4 Last year, I
found a $12.50 electronic tacho for fine tuning. Glenn has a little
forge set up, so we can actually cast this beastie in aluminum.
_BILLET_, BABY! g

Lots of figuring and logistics to go yet, but it will be a fun and
useful project.

Ive got a number of triple and double sheave pulleys. What OD do you
need?

Read up 2 paragraphs starting with "This project happens AFTER..."

Did you get my email shipping?

No..did you send one? I didnt get back until late last night. I was
quite busy all week. Ill check and see if I got it.

Why don't you two fruit rabbits get a room somewhere?

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 22:40:37 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 11:11:31 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 10:32:10 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Saturday, August 30, 1997 at 1:00:00 AM UTC-6, mlightner
wrote:
I recently acquired a DC welder with the name H C Scott
Industries on it
- it has what looks like a car alternator mounted inside an 8"
x
8" x12"
frame, and has an outlet for
plugging power tools into125VDC, (rated at 12 amps). The
welder
portion
of it consists
of two terminals for the leads and a dial that selects from 35
to 135
amps. I had no luck
finding the manufacturer of it, though there is an address
still
readable (a po box in New Mexico) on the housing.

Has anyone out there had any experience with one of these? The
unit
didn't come with
a motor, and has a few wires I need to ID, but all the diodes
seem to
read ok. The bearings also seem allright, does anyone out
there
have
any suggestions (or better yet
technical literature on it) as to rpm or hp needed to run it?

Thanks for any light shed on this subject.

josh

Yeah, it take a 8HP. I have the same thing.I put a Brigg&Statton
engine


Larry..you have one of these as well..pay attention...

I did, and I gave him the link to a manual. (Now who's not paying
attention?) What all can I run on a DC gen like that? I've never
really looked into it. I plan to build a 12v regulator to charge
my
batteries with it as a backup charger.

One of these days, after the retirement, someone in Grass Pants
will
mosey down to Glenn's in Medford and we'll rig up a triple mount
platform for my spare Briggs 2100 (13hp) so I can switch off from
the
little Scott generator/welder to an air compressor to a trash
pump.
HF's 5hp head can put out 15.2 CFM @ 90 PSI, up to 145psi, and
runs
at
655rpm. http://tinyurl.com/7b9n3ch

Gonna sell my old pressure washer to finance the twin cylinder
cast
iron compressor head. I already have the 2" motor-driven trash
pump.

This project happens after I sit down and figure out ratios so we
can
turn a triple sheave drive pulley. He doesn't have a shaper, but
I'm
pretty sure he has a set of broaches for cutting the keyway.
Tubal
Cain has a good video on it. http://tinyurl.com/qxblhz4 Last
year,
I
found a $12.50 electronic tacho for fine tuning. Glenn has a
little
forge set up, so we can actually cast this beastie in aluminum.
_BILLET_, BABY! g

Lots of figuring and logistics to go yet, but it will be a fun and
useful project.

The 5.5 HP gas engine I swap around has an L095 on its shaft and on
the loads:
http://www.lovejoy-inc.com/products/...couplings.aspx

I might use that style for the pump, thanks. I doubt they're free,
though. We used to use the laser-cut spiral types at one of the
places I used to work. Li'l 1/4" jobs. Cute.

Lots of used machine parts are nearly free IF you have a lathe to fit
them to your needs. I bored out a 7/16" Lovejoy coupler to 1/2" and
broached a new key slot, and almost always have to bore or bush
pulleys with the OD I want to fit the shaft. The ones with standard
sized bores sell quickly while the odd-sized ones accumulate.

My first guess of pulley size has rarely been the proper final choice
when I build with whatever second-hand components I found rather than
designing to specs. On the sawmill transmission I used what I could
find for the chain sprocket and large pulley on the intermediate shaft
and then bought a new pulley of the right size for the motor extension
shaft, to get the 5000 SFPM speed the blade vendor's tech recommended.
That pulley, shaft and two pillow blocks cost me over $100 new.

-jsw

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 22:53:54 -0700, "Delma T. Ivey"
wrote:

Why don't you two fruit rabbits get a room somewhere?

That was easy. plonk

--
My desire to be well-informed is currently
at odds with my desire to remain sane. --Sipkess

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 08:32:53 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
I might use that style for the pump, thanks. I doubt they're free,
though. We used to use the laser-cut spiral types at one of the
places I used to work. Li'l 1/4" jobs. Cute.

Lots of used machine parts are nearly free IF you have a lathe to fit

Yeah, and I find and use them as much as I can. My buddy Glenn has
the machine shop, while I have the wood shop.


them to your needs. I bored out a 7/16" Lovejoy coupler to 1/2" and
broached a new key slot, and almost always have to bore or bush
pulleys with the OD I want to fit the shaft. The ones with standard
sized bores sell quickly while the odd-sized ones accumulate.

And adapters are quick, cheap, and easy to make if you can't simply
bore an odd size to the size you need.


My first guess of pulley size has rarely been the proper final choice
when I build with whatever second-hand components I found rather than
designing to specs. On the sawmill transmission I used what I could
find for the chain sprocket and large pulley on the intermediate shaft
and then bought a new pulley of the right size for the motor extension
shaft, to get the 5000 SFPM speed the blade vendor's tech recommended.

Wow, 5k is fast. I'll bet she cuts sweetly.


That pulley, shaft and two pillow blocks cost me over $100 new.

Ouch!

--
My desire to be well-informed is currently
at odds with my desire to remain sane. --Sipkess

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 09:38:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 22:53:54 -0700, "Delma T. Ivey"
wrote:

Why don't you two fruit rabbits get a room somewhere?

That was easy. plonk

ROFLMAO!!

Now that you have gotten on his "bad side"...expect him to start
pestering you as well.

He is just a wackjob..we get em regularly. Pay no attention to him.

Gunner

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 08:32:53 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..
I might use that style for the pump, thanks. I doubt they're
free,
though. We used to use the laser-cut spiral types at one of the
places I used to work. Li'l 1/4" jobs. Cute.

Lots of used machine parts are nearly free IF you have a lathe to
fit

Yeah, and I find and use them as much as I can. My buddy Glenn has
the machine shop, while I have the wood shop.


them to your needs. I bored out a 7/16" Lovejoy coupler to 1/2" and
broached a new key slot, and almost always have to bore or bush
pulleys with the OD I want to fit the shaft. The ones with standard
sized bores sell quickly while the odd-sized ones accumulate.

And adapters are quick, cheap, and easy to make if you can't simply
bore an odd size to the size you need.


My first guess of pulley size has rarely been the proper final
choice
when I build with whatever second-hand components I found rather
than
designing to specs. On the sawmill transmission I used what I could
find for the chain sprocket and large pulley on the intermediate
shaft
and then bought a new pulley of the right size for the motor
extension
shaft, to get the 5000 SFPM speed the blade vendor's tech
recommended.

Wow, 5k is fast. I'll bet she cuts sweetly.

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/did-you-kno.html
The blade on mine is 1-1/4 wide, 3/4" pitch, on 24" ex-motorcycle
wheels & tires. I run the engine around 2500 - 3000 RPM in a
low-vibration sweet spot.

IIRC the cutting rate was about 1 inch per second through fairly dry
~16" red oak, without pushing very hard. That's a minute and a half
per plank. The ~20" logs I'll (hopefully) be cutting later this summer
were felled green last month.

-jsw

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 22:20:04 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 19:13:00 -0700, wrote:

SNIP

This project happens after I sit down and figure out ratios so we can
turn a triple sheave drive pulley. He doesn't have a shaper, but I'm
pretty sure he has a set of broaches for cutting the keyway. Tubal
Cain has a good video on it. http://tinyurl.com/qxblhz4 Last year, I
found a $12.50 electronic tacho for fine tuning. Glenn has a little
forge set up, so we can actually cast this beastie in aluminum.
_BILLET_, BABY! g
I have always thought that billet meant forged or rolled material. as
oipposed to a chunk of cast material. So a chunk of cast material
could be machined into a part but the part could not be said to have
been machined from billet unless that cast chunk had first been forged
or rolled into a billet. Certainly a person can tell if the chunk
being machined is in the as cast form or in the rolled ("billet") or
forged ("billet") form.
Eric

A billet of steel is a rolled section that is thick for its width; a
square or fat rectangle. It's typically 6 in. to 18 in. on the long
side.

A billet of aluminum is a cast log, up to 30 in. diameter or even
larger, but more typically 18 in. diameter, that is generally useless
until it's cold-rolled to refine the grain.

The term has been abused by marketers for several decades. They have
no idea what they're talking about most of the time.
Apparently neither do I as I thought all billet material was worked
after casting, that in the as cast condition could not be considered
billet. But apparently cast aluminum logs are also billet.
Thanks,
Eric

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 16:37:02 -0700, wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 22:20:04 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 19:13:00 -0700, wrote:

SNIP

This project happens after I sit down and figure out ratios so we can
turn a triple sheave drive pulley. He doesn't have a shaper, but I'm
pretty sure he has a set of broaches for cutting the keyway. Tubal
Cain has a good video on it. http://tinyurl.com/qxblhz4 Last year, I
found a $12.50 electronic tacho for fine tuning. Glenn has a little
forge set up, so we can actually cast this beastie in aluminum.
_BILLET_, BABY! g
I have always thought that billet meant forged or rolled material. as
oipposed to a chunk of cast material. So a chunk of cast material
could be machined into a part but the part could not be said to have
been machined from billet unless that cast chunk had first been forged
or rolled into a billet. Certainly a person can tell if the chunk
being machined is in the as cast form or in the rolled ("billet") or
forged ("billet") form.
Eric

A billet of steel is a rolled section that is thick for its width; a
square or fat rectangle. It's typically 6 in. to 18 in. on the long
side.

A billet of aluminum is a cast log, up to 30 in. diameter or even
larger, but more typically 18 in. diameter, that is generally useless
until it's cold-rolled to refine the grain.

The term has been abused by marketers for several decades. They have
no idea what they're talking about most of the time.

Apparently neither do I as I thought all billet material was worked
after casting, that in the as cast condition could not be considered
billet. But apparently cast aluminum logs are also billet.
Thanks,
Eric

Until "billet aluminum" became a marketing thing, the term was
confined almost exclusively to the primary-aluminum industry, which I
covered for American Machinist and, in a couple of cases, for _33
Metal Producing_ magazine, back in the '70s and '80s.

We used to have a member here, who we called "Hamei," who ran an
aluminum-wheel manufacturing plant. He said he tried machining slices
of billet aluminum (the unworked, cast "logs") and reported that it
was like machining chewing gum.

Marketers thought the term sounded cool and started applying it to all
sorts of wrought aluminum. And it's true that billet aluminum is
wrought before it's used, in almost all cases. But once it's wrought,
it's no longer a billet. It's then called wrought aluminum.

Billets of aluminum are also known as "logs," BTW.

--
Ed Huntress

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 11:18:20 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 09:38:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 22:53:54 -0700, "Delma T. Ivey"
wrote:

Why don't you two fruit rabbits get a room somewhere?

That was easy. plonk

ROFLMAO!!

Now that you have gotten on his "bad side"...expect him to start
pestering you as well.

He is just a wackjob..we get em regularly. Pay no attention to him.

He's already plonked here, so why don't you join me?

--
My desire to be well-informed is currently
at odds with my desire to remain sane. --Sipkess

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 18:39:09 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 11:18:20 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 09:38:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 22:53:54 -0700, "Delma T. Ivey"
wrote:

Why don't you two fruit rabbits get a room somewhere?

That was easy. plonk

ROFLMAO!!

Now that you have gotten on his "bad side"...expect him to start
pestering you as well.

He is just a wackjob..we get em regularly. Pay no attention to him.

He's already plonked here, so why don't you join me?

Oh I have. My killfile has 358 of his nyms in it..and he simply adds
new ones. So I play with him like a bottom feeding carp..then kill
file him until he changes his nym again.

Sometimes it only takes him a minute or so to make the change. But..Im
using up all of his nyms..so he has to actually think of the next
one..and try to remember if its in the kill file or not.

Then they put him in his bed and slap the thorazine to him and we dont
see him for a few days.

Gunner

On Sunday, July 19, 2015 at 11:48:06 PM UTC-6, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 18:39:09 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 11:18:20 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 09:38:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 22:53:54 -0700, "Delma T. Ivey"
wrote:

Why don't you two fruit rabbits get a room somewhere?

That was easy. plonk

ROFLMAO!!

Now that you have gotten on his "bad side"...expect him to start
pestering you as well.

He is just a wackjob..we get em regularly. Pay no attention to him.

He's already plonked here, so why don't you join me?

Oh I have. My killfile has 358 of his nyms in it..and he simply adds
new ones. So I play with him like a bottom feeding carp..then kill
file him until he changes his nym again.

Sometimes it only takes him a minute or so to make the change. But..Im
using up all of his nyms..so he has to actually think of the next
one..and try to remember if its in the kill file or not.

Then they put him in his bed and slap the thorazine to him and we dont
see him for a few days.

Gunner