I have a magnetic drill, an old looking one.

The drill motor works, the magnet does not.

I investigated the magnet a little bit. Here's what I found:

1) The bridge rectifier that was there, blows the breaker on the
electrical surge suppressor outlet

2) I replaced the old rectifier with another one that I had

3) Still no action on the magnet

4) There is a mysterious to me multiple position switch and resistors
and the switch appears to have arcing damage

5) The magnet works if 110 volts DC is applied to it , bypassing the
above switch.

I admit that I have never seen one of those in action and I do not
understand what function does the switch perform. Does it only turn
the magnet on and off and perhaps provide different magnetic strength?

Or does it provide a demagnetizing function somehow? (I would expect
it to be unlikely as AC does not go into the switch).

I could take the easy route, junk everything, and replace it with a
new rectifier, connected directly to thhe magnet, and a AC input
switch.

My question is,

1) how functionality much would I be missing with such simple wiring?
2) Given that the DC current at 110 volts is about 1.2 amps, how
likely would I be to overheat the magnet? (about 130 watts)
3) Anything else that I am missing?

I need to use this drill badly for two projects.

thanks

On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:32:49 PM UTC-4, Ignoramus29328 wrote:


I need to use this drill badly for two projects.

thanks

I suspect the switch provides " full " power to clamp the drill to the work, and can also apply less current in the opposite direction to demagnetise and let you get the drill off the work.

Dan

On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:29:25 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:32:49 PM UTC-4, Ignoramus29328 wrote:


I need to use this drill badly for two projects.

thanks

I suspect the switch provides " full " power to clamp the drill to the work, and can also apply less current in the opposite direction to demagnetise and let you get the drill off the work.

Dan
I suspect it is a 2 stage magnet - low power to position the base and
get set up, and high power to hold the base for drilling. This reduces
the power dissipation of the magnet to prevent overheating it. Why
have it claped on full power when you are not drilling - yet turning
odd the magnet allows the setup to be compromized by bumping it etc.
Just remember - ALWAYS use a safety chain as a backup.

Ignoramus29328 wrote:
I have a magnetic drill, an old looking one.

The drill motor works, the magnet does not.

I investigated the magnet a little bit. Here's what I found:

1) The bridge rectifier that was there, blows the breaker on the
electrical surge suppressor outlet

2) I replaced the old rectifier with another one that I had

3) Still no action on the magnet

4) There is a mysterious to me multiple position switch and resistors
and the switch appears to have arcing damage

Usually 3 position. Off, Position and Bore. Some have 4 position
switches, those have an AC feed to demag the work as needed.

Arc damage is likely due to the rectifier failing and sending AC through
the switch.


5) The magnet works if 110 volts DC is applied to it , bypassing the
above switch.

Good, they are not cheap to rewind.


I admit that I have never seen one of those in action and I do not
understand what function does the switch perform. Does it only turn
the magnet on and off and perhaps provide different magnetic strength?

Most are OFF,
Position - lower power to magnet so you can set the machine up and it
stays in place.
Then a Bore position. You get the drill set up, then just prior to using
it switch the magnet to full power to lock it down solid. Once you have
the hole bored you switch back to the lower setting. Keeps you from
overheating the coils.

Many also pull the drill motors power from the AC pins on the rectifier.



Or does it provide a demagnetizing function somehow? (I would expect
it to be unlikely as AC does not go into the switch).

I could take the easy route, junk everything, and replace it with a
new rectifier, connected directly to thhe magnet, and a AC input
switch.

That would work BUT with that magnet on full power you won't be able to
adjust the position of the drill. Wouldn't be a big issue if you're
boring vertical down. Any other position you want the lower power.


My question is,

1) how functionality much would I be missing with such simple wiring?
2) Given that the DC current at 110 volts is about 1.2 amps, how
likely would I be to overheat the magnet? (about 130 watts)
3) Anything else that I am missing?

I need to use this drill badly for two projects.

thanks


Well for a temporary set-up you might connect the rectifier up then feed
it AC through a light dimmer. Then you could dial the power up to hold
the drill in position, and turn it on full with a direct switch (only
because I wouldn't trust the dimmer)Then once you get the project done
get some better controls.

--
Steve W.

On 4/16/2015 2:59 AM, Steve W. wrote:
....
Arc damage is likely due to the rectifier failing and sending AC through
the switch.
....

DC is MUCH more likely to do arc damage. With AC, the current goes to
zero 120 times a second and gives an arc the opportunity to extinguish.
Not so with DC. Full wave rectified AC looks more like AC than DC,
but the inductance of the magnet will smooth it out enough to take away
its reaching zero.

Bottom line: if Iggy needs to replace the switch, it needs to be DC rated!

Bob

On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 02:59:33 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

Ignoramus29328 wrote:
I have a magnetic drill, an old looking one.

The drill motor works, the magnet does not.

I investigated the magnet a little bit. Here's what I found:

1) The bridge rectifier that was there, blows the breaker on the
electrical surge suppressor outlet

2) I replaced the old rectifier with another one that I had

3) Still no action on the magnet

4) There is a mysterious to me multiple position switch and resistors
and the switch appears to have arcing damage

Usually 3 position. Off, Position and Bore. Some have 4 position
switches, those have an AC feed to demag the work as needed.

Arc damage is likely due to the rectifier failing and sending AC through
the switch.


5) The magnet works if 110 volts DC is applied to it , bypassing the
above switch.

Good, they are not cheap to rewind.


I admit that I have never seen one of those in action and I do not
understand what function does the switch perform. Does it only turn
the magnet on and off and perhaps provide different magnetic strength?

Most are OFF,
Position - lower power to magnet so you can set the machine up and it
stays in place.
Then a Bore position. You get the drill set up, then just prior to using
it switch the magnet to full power to lock it down solid. Once you have
the hole bored you switch back to the lower setting. Keeps you from
overheating the coils.

Many also pull the drill motors power from the AC pins on the rectifier.



Or does it provide a demagnetizing function somehow? (I would expect
it to be unlikely as AC does not go into the switch).

I could take the easy route, junk everything, and replace it with a
new rectifier, connected directly to thhe magnet, and a AC input
switch.

That would work BUT with that magnet on full power you won't be able to
adjust the position of the drill. Wouldn't be a big issue if you're
boring vertical down. Any other position you want the lower power.


My question is,

1) how functionality much would I be missing with such simple wiring?
2) Given that the DC current at 110 volts is about 1.2 amps, how
likely would I be to overheat the magnet? (about 130 watts)
3) Anything else that I am missing?

I need to use this drill badly for two projects.

thanks


Well for a temporary set-up you might connect the rectifier up then feed
it AC through a light dimmer. Then you could dial the power up to hold
the drill in position, and turn it on full with a direct switch (only
because I wouldn't trust the dimmer)Then once you get the project done
get some better controls.
AC isn't nearly as hard on a switch as DC - - -

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 02:59:33 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

Ignoramus29328 wrote:
I have a magnetic drill, an old looking one.

The drill motor works, the magnet does not.

I investigated the magnet a little bit. Here's what I found:

1) The bridge rectifier that was there, blows the breaker on the
electrical surge suppressor outlet

2) I replaced the old rectifier with another one that I had

3) Still no action on the magnet

4) There is a mysterious to me multiple position switch and resistors
and the switch appears to have arcing damage

Usually 3 position. Off, Position and Bore. Some have 4 position
switches, those have an AC feed to demag the work as needed.

Arc damage is likely due to the rectifier failing and sending AC through
the switch.


5) The magnet works if 110 volts DC is applied to it , bypassing the
above switch.

Good, they are not cheap to rewind.


I admit that I have never seen one of those in action and I do not
understand what function does the switch perform. Does it only turn
the magnet on and off and perhaps provide different magnetic strength?

Most are OFF,
Position - lower power to magnet so you can set the machine up and it
stays in place.
Then a Bore position. You get the drill set up, then just prior to using
it switch the magnet to full power to lock it down solid. Once you have
the hole bored you switch back to the lower setting. Keeps you from
overheating the coils.

Many also pull the drill motors power from the AC pins on the rectifier.



Or does it provide a demagnetizing function somehow? (I would expect
it to be unlikely as AC does not go into the switch).

I could take the easy route, junk everything, and replace it with a
new rectifier, connected directly to thhe magnet, and a AC input
switch.

That would work BUT with that magnet on full power you won't be able to
adjust the position of the drill. Wouldn't be a big issue if you're
boring vertical down. Any other position you want the lower power.


My question is,

1) how functionality much would I be missing with such simple wiring?
2) Given that the DC current at 110 volts is about 1.2 amps, how
likely would I be to overheat the magnet? (about 130 watts)
3) Anything else that I am missing?

I need to use this drill badly for two projects.

thanks


Well for a temporary set-up you might connect the rectifier up then feed
it AC through a light dimmer. Then you could dial the power up to hold
the drill in position, and turn it on full with a direct switch (only
because I wouldn't trust the dimmer)Then once you get the project done
get some better controls.

AC isn't nearly as hard on a switch as DC - - -

Hence why many components (like servo controllers) say never switch the
output of a power supply. Always switch the AC input.

On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:29:25 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:32:49 PM UTC-4, Ignoramus29328 wrote:


I need to use this drill badly for two projects.

thanks

I suspect the switch provides " full " power to clamp the drill to the work, and can also apply less current in the opposite direction to demagnetise and let you get the drill off the work.

Dan

DC is used to clamp..AC is used to demagnetize the coil itself.

When you turn the magnet on..it should be feeding it DC. When you turn
the magnet off..it should bypass the rectifier and feed the magnet
with AC..normally its a momentary position. On, center neutral and OFF
(with demagnetize)

Everybody does it slightly differently. Milwaukee uses a PC board to
perform all of that with a simple pushbutton on the newer mag drills.

You CAN simply turn off the magnet..but over time it will magnetize
the base of the unit and it gets to be a bitch to get that sucker
loose.

Surface grinders do much the same, particularly on the bigger tables.

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 20:04:09 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 17:29:25 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 6:32:49 PM UTC-4, Ignoramus29328 wrote:


I need to use this drill badly for two projects.

thanks

I suspect the switch provides " full " power to clamp the drill to the work, and can also apply less current in the opposite direction to demagnetise and let you get the drill off the work.

Dan

DC is used to clamp..AC is used to demagnetize the coil itself.

When you turn the magnet on..it should be feeding it DC. When you turn
the magnet off..it should bypass the rectifier and feed the magnet
with AC..normally its a momentary position. On, center neutral and OFF
(with demagnetize)

Everybody does it slightly differently. Milwaukee uses a PC board to
perform all of that with a simple pushbutton on the newer mag drills.

You CAN simply turn off the magnet..but over time it will magnetize
the base of the unit and it gets to be a bitch to get that sucker
loose.

Surface grinders do much the same, particularly on the bigger tables.

Gunner

Do you mean magnetic chucks, or are they magnetizing entire tables
these days?

--
Ed Huntress

Steve, and others, thanks a lot. The magnet works now. I can always
ask a couple more guys to help with any kind of positioning.

i

On 2015-04-16, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus29328 wrote:
I have a magnetic drill, an old looking one.

The drill motor works, the magnet does not.

I investigated the magnet a little bit. Here's what I found:

1) The bridge rectifier that was there, blows the breaker on the
electrical surge suppressor outlet

2) I replaced the old rectifier with another one that I had

3) Still no action on the magnet

4) There is a mysterious to me multiple position switch and resistors
and the switch appears to have arcing damage

Usually 3 position. Off, Position and Bore. Some have 4 position
switches, those have an AC feed to demag the work as needed.

Arc damage is likely due to the rectifier failing and sending AC through
the switch.


5) The magnet works if 110 volts DC is applied to it , bypassing the
above switch.

Good, they are not cheap to rewind.


I admit that I have never seen one of those in action and I do not
understand what function does the switch perform. Does it only turn
the magnet on and off and perhaps provide different magnetic strength?

Most are OFF,
Position - lower power to magnet so you can set the machine up and it
stays in place.
Then a Bore position. You get the drill set up, then just prior to using
it switch the magnet to full power to lock it down solid. Once you have
the hole bored you switch back to the lower setting. Keeps you from
overheating the coils.

Many also pull the drill motors power from the AC pins on the rectifier.



Or does it provide a demagnetizing function somehow? (I would expect
it to be unlikely as AC does not go into the switch).

I could take the easy route, junk everything, and replace it with a
new rectifier, connected directly to thhe magnet, and a AC input
switch.

That would work BUT with that magnet on full power you won't be able to
adjust the position of the drill. Wouldn't be a big issue if you're
boring vertical down. Any other position you want the lower power.


My question is,

1) how functionality much would I be missing with such simple wiring?
2) Given that the DC current at 110 volts is about 1.2 amps, how
likely would I be to overheat the magnet? (about 130 watts)
3) Anything else that I am missing?

I need to use this drill badly for two projects.

thanks


Well for a temporary set-up you might connect the rectifier up then feed
it AC through a light dimmer. Then you could dial the power up to hold
the drill in position, and turn it on full with a direct switch (only
because I wouldn't trust the dimmer)Then once you get the project done
get some better controls.

On 2015-04-16, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
On 4/16/2015 2:59 AM, Steve W. wrote:
...
Arc damage is likely due to the rectifier failing and sending AC through
the switch.
...

DC is MUCH more likely to do arc damage. With AC, the current goes to
zero 120 times a second and gives an arc the opportunity to extinguish.
Not so with DC. Full wave rectified AC looks more like AC than DC,
but the inductance of the magnet will smooth it out enough to take away
its reaching zero.

Bottom line: if Iggy needs to replace the switch, it needs to be DC rated!

Bob


The switch is on the AC side.

i

"Ignoramus28245" wrote in message
...
Steve, and others, thanks a lot. The magnet works now. I can always
ask a couple more guys to help with any kind of positioning.

i

On 2015-04-16, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus29328 wrote:
I have a magnetic drill, an old looking one.

The drill motor works, the magnet does not.

I investigated the magnet a little bit. Here's what I found:

1) The bridge rectifier that was there, blows the breaker on the
electrical surge suppressor outlet

2) I replaced the old rectifier with another one that I had

3) Still no action on the magnet

4) There is a mysterious to me multiple position switch and resistors
and the switch appears to have arcing damage

Usually 3 position. Off, Position and Bore. Some have 4 position
switches, those have an AC feed to demag the work as needed.

Arc damage is likely due to the rectifier failing and sending AC through
the switch.


5) The magnet works if 110 volts DC is applied to it , bypassing the
above switch.

Good, they are not cheap to rewind.


I admit that I have never seen one of those in action and I do not
understand what function does the switch perform. Does it only turn
the magnet on and off and perhaps provide different magnetic strength?

Most are OFF,
Position - lower power to magnet so you can set the machine up and it
stays in place.
Then a Bore position. You get the drill set up, then just prior to using
it switch the magnet to full power to lock it down solid. Once you have
the hole bored you switch back to the lower setting. Keeps you from
overheating the coils.

Many also pull the drill motors power from the AC pins on the rectifier.



Or does it provide a demagnetizing function somehow? (I would expect
it to be unlikely as AC does not go into the switch).

I could take the easy route, junk everything, and replace it with a
new rectifier, connected directly to thhe magnet, and a AC input
switch.

That would work BUT with that magnet on full power you won't be able to
adjust the position of the drill. Wouldn't be a big issue if you're
boring vertical down. Any other position you want the lower power.


My question is,

1) how functionality much would I be missing with such simple wiring?
2) Given that the DC current at 110 volts is about 1.2 amps, how
likely would I be to overheat the magnet? (about 130 watts)
3) Anything else that I am missing?

I need to use this drill badly for two projects.

thanks


Well for a temporary set-up you might connect the rectifier up then feed
it AC through a light dimmer. Then you could dial the power up to hold
the drill in position, and turn it on full with a direct switch (only
because I wouldn't trust the dimmer)Then once you get the project done
get some better controls.

You could also try a transformer and switch BEFORE the rectifier.

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 1:43:59 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
"Ignoramus28245" wrote in message
...
Steve, and others, thanks a lot. The magnet works now. I can always
ask a couple more guys to help with any kind of positioning.

i

On 2015-04-16, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus29328 wrote:
I have a magnetic drill, an old looking one.

The drill motor works, the magnet does not.

I investigated the magnet a little bit. Here's what I found:

1) The bridge rectifier that was there, blows the breaker on the
electrical surge suppressor outlet

2) I replaced the old rectifier with another one that I had

3) Still no action on the magnet

4) There is a mysterious to me multiple position switch and resistors
and the switch appears to have arcing damage

Usually 3 position. Off, Position and Bore. Some have 4 position
switches, those have an AC feed to demag the work as needed.

Arc damage is likely due to the rectifier failing and sending AC through
the switch.


5) The magnet works if 110 volts DC is applied to it , bypassing the
above switch.

Good, they are not cheap to rewind.


I admit that I have never seen one of those in action and I do not
understand what function does the switch perform. Does it only turn
the magnet on and off and perhaps provide different magnetic strength?

Most are OFF,
Position - lower power to magnet so you can set the machine up and it
stays in place.
Then a Bore position. You get the drill set up, then just prior to using
it switch the magnet to full power to lock it down solid. Once you have
the hole bored you switch back to the lower setting. Keeps you from
overheating the coils.

Many also pull the drill motors power from the AC pins on the rectifier.



Or does it provide a demagnetizing function somehow? (I would expect
it to be unlikely as AC does not go into the switch).

I could take the easy route, junk everything, and replace it with a
new rectifier, connected directly to thhe magnet, and a AC input
switch.

That would work BUT with that magnet on full power you won't be able to
adjust the position of the drill. Wouldn't be a big issue if you're
boring vertical down. Any other position you want the lower power.


My question is,

1) how functionality much would I be missing with such simple wiring?
2) Given that the DC current at 110 volts is about 1.2 amps, how
likely would I be to overheat the magnet? (about 130 watts)
3) Anything else that I am missing?

I need to use this drill badly for two projects.

thanks


Well for a temporary set-up you might connect the rectifier up then feed
it AC through a light dimmer. Then you could dial the power up to hold
the drill in position, and turn it on full with a direct switch (only
because I wouldn't trust the dimmer)Then once you get the project done
get some better controls.

You could also try a transformer and switch BEFORE the rectifier.

for only 130 watts, a small variac would be ideal for this.

On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 11:02:48 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 1:43:59 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
"Ignoramus28245" wrote in message
...
Steve, and others, thanks a lot. The magnet works now. I can always
ask a couple more guys to help with any kind of positioning.

i

On 2015-04-16, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus29328 wrote:
I have a magnetic drill, an old looking one.

The drill motor works, the magnet does not.

I investigated the magnet a little bit. Here's what I found:

1) The bridge rectifier that was there, blows the breaker on the
electrical surge suppressor outlet

2) I replaced the old rectifier with another one that I had

3) Still no action on the magnet

4) There is a mysterious to me multiple position switch and resistors
and the switch appears to have arcing damage

Usually 3 position. Off, Position and Bore. Some have 4 position
switches, those have an AC feed to demag the work as needed.

Arc damage is likely due to the rectifier failing and sending AC through
the switch.


5) The magnet works if 110 volts DC is applied to it , bypassing the
above switch.

Good, they are not cheap to rewind.


I admit that I have never seen one of those in action and I do not
understand what function does the switch perform. Does it only turn
the magnet on and off and perhaps provide different magnetic strength?

Most are OFF,
Position - lower power to magnet so you can set the machine up and it
stays in place.
Then a Bore position. You get the drill set up, then just prior to using
it switch the magnet to full power to lock it down solid. Once you have
the hole bored you switch back to the lower setting. Keeps you from
overheating the coils.

Many also pull the drill motors power from the AC pins on the rectifier.



Or does it provide a demagnetizing function somehow? (I would expect
it to be unlikely as AC does not go into the switch).

I could take the easy route, junk everything, and replace it with a
new rectifier, connected directly to thhe magnet, and a AC input
switch.

That would work BUT with that magnet on full power you won't be able to
adjust the position of the drill. Wouldn't be a big issue if you're
boring vertical down. Any other position you want the lower power.


My question is,

1) how functionality much would I be missing with such simple wiring?
2) Given that the DC current at 110 volts is about 1.2 amps, how
likely would I be to overheat the magnet? (about 130 watts)
3) Anything else that I am missing?

I need to use this drill badly for two projects.

thanks


Well for a temporary set-up you might connect the rectifier up then feed
it AC through a light dimmer. Then you could dial the power up to hold
the drill in position, and turn it on full with a direct switch (only
because I wouldn't trust the dimmer)Then once you get the project done
get some better controls.

You could also try a transformer and switch BEFORE the rectifier.

for only 130 watts, a small variac would be ideal for this.
And a 600 watt dimmer would be cheaper, smaller, lighter, and
simpler.

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 9:04:50 PM UTC-4, Clare wrote:
On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 11:02:48 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 1:43:59 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
"Ignoramus28245" wrote in message
...
Steve, and others, thanks a lot. The magnet works now. I can always
ask a couple more guys to help with any kind of positioning.

i

On 2015-04-16, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus29328 wrote:
I have a magnetic drill, an old looking one.

The drill motor works, the magnet does not.

I investigated the magnet a little bit. Here's what I found:

1) The bridge rectifier that was there, blows the breaker on the
electrical surge suppressor outlet

2) I replaced the old rectifier with another one that I had

3) Still no action on the magnet

4) There is a mysterious to me multiple position switch and resistors
and the switch appears to have arcing damage

Usually 3 position. Off, Position and Bore. Some have 4 position
switches, those have an AC feed to demag the work as needed.

Arc damage is likely due to the rectifier failing and sending AC through
the switch.


5) The magnet works if 110 volts DC is applied to it , bypassing the
above switch.

Good, they are not cheap to rewind.


I admit that I have never seen one of those in action and I do not
understand what function does the switch perform. Does it only turn
the magnet on and off and perhaps provide different magnetic strength?

Most are OFF,
Position - lower power to magnet so you can set the machine up and it
stays in place.
Then a Bore position. You get the drill set up, then just prior to using
it switch the magnet to full power to lock it down solid. Once you have
the hole bored you switch back to the lower setting. Keeps you from
overheating the coils.

Many also pull the drill motors power from the AC pins on the rectifier.



Or does it provide a demagnetizing function somehow? (I would expect
it to be unlikely as AC does not go into the switch).

I could take the easy route, junk everything, and replace it with a
new rectifier, connected directly to thhe magnet, and a AC input
switch.

That would work BUT with that magnet on full power you won't be able to
adjust the position of the drill. Wouldn't be a big issue if you're
boring vertical down. Any other position you want the lower power.


My question is,

1) how functionality much would I be missing with such simple wiring?
2) Given that the DC current at 110 volts is about 1.2 amps, how
likely would I be to overheat the magnet? (about 130 watts)
3) Anything else that I am missing?

I need to use this drill badly for two projects.

thanks


Well for a temporary set-up you might connect the rectifier up then feed
it AC through a light dimmer. Then you could dial the power up to hold
the drill in position, and turn it on full with a direct switch (only
because I wouldn't trust the dimmer)Then once you get the project done
get some better controls.

You could also try a transformer and switch BEFORE the rectifier.

for only 130 watts, a small variac would be ideal for this.
And a 600 watt dimmer would be cheaper, smaller, lighter, and
simpler.

OK, I guess, though I'd rather trust a variac than a home depot dimmer. But as you said earlier, ALWAYS use safety chains. Having that puppy land on your foot would probably ruin your weekend.

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 11:46:56 PM UTC-4, rangerssuck wrote:
On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 9:04:50 PM UTC-4, Clare wrote:
On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 11:02:48 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 1:43:59 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
"Ignoramus28245" wrote in message
...
Steve, and others, thanks a lot. The magnet works now. I can always
ask a couple more guys to help with any kind of positioning.

i

On 2015-04-16, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus29328 wrote:
I have a magnetic drill, an old looking one.

The drill motor works, the magnet does not.

I investigated the magnet a little bit. Here's what I found:

1) The bridge rectifier that was there, blows the breaker on the
electrical surge suppressor outlet

2) I replaced the old rectifier with another one that I had

3) Still no action on the magnet

4) There is a mysterious to me multiple position switch and resistors
and the switch appears to have arcing damage

Usually 3 position. Off, Position and Bore. Some have 4 position
switches, those have an AC feed to demag the work as needed.

Arc damage is likely due to the rectifier failing and sending AC through
the switch.


5) The magnet works if 110 volts DC is applied to it , bypassing the
above switch.

Good, they are not cheap to rewind.


I admit that I have never seen one of those in action and I do not
understand what function does the switch perform. Does it only turn
the magnet on and off and perhaps provide different magnetic strength?

Most are OFF,
Position - lower power to magnet so you can set the machine up and it
stays in place.
Then a Bore position. You get the drill set up, then just prior to using
it switch the magnet to full power to lock it down solid. Once you have
the hole bored you switch back to the lower setting. Keeps you from
overheating the coils.

Many also pull the drill motors power from the AC pins on the rectifier.



Or does it provide a demagnetizing function somehow? (I would expect
it to be unlikely as AC does not go into the switch).

I could take the easy route, junk everything, and replace it with a
new rectifier, connected directly to thhe magnet, and a AC input
switch.

That would work BUT with that magnet on full power you won't be able to
adjust the position of the drill. Wouldn't be a big issue if you're
boring vertical down. Any other position you want the lower power.


My question is,

1) how functionality much would I be missing with such simple wiring?
2) Given that the DC current at 110 volts is about 1.2 amps, how
likely would I be to overheat the magnet? (about 130 watts)
3) Anything else that I am missing?

I need to use this drill badly for two projects.

thanks


Well for a temporary set-up you might connect the rectifier up then feed
it AC through a light dimmer. Then you could dial the power up to hold
the drill in position, and turn it on full with a direct switch (only
because I wouldn't trust the dimmer)Then once you get the project done
get some better controls.

You could also try a transformer and switch BEFORE the rectifier.

for only 130 watts, a small variac would be ideal for this.
And a 600 watt dimmer would be cheaper, smaller, lighter, and
simpler.

OK, I guess, though I'd rather trust a variac than a home depot dimmer. But as you said earlier, ALWAYS use safety chains. Having that puppy land on your foot would probably ruin your weekend.

hey guys, best way to bypass a magnet on a milwaukee 4203?

On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:28:29 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 11:46:56 PM UTC-4, rangerssuck wrote:
On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 9:04:50 PM UTC-4, Clare wrote:
On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 11:02:48 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 1:43:59 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
"Ignoramus28245" wrote in message
...
Steve, and others, thanks a lot. The magnet works now. I can always
ask a couple more guys to help with any kind of positioning.

i

On 2015-04-16, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus29328 wrote:
I have a magnetic drill, an old looking one.

The drill motor works, the magnet does not.

I investigated the magnet a little bit. Here's what I found:

1) The bridge rectifier that was there, blows the breaker on the
electrical surge suppressor outlet

2) I replaced the old rectifier with another one that I had

3) Still no action on the magnet

4) There is a mysterious to me multiple position switch and resistors
and the switch appears to have arcing damage

Usually 3 position. Off, Position and Bore. Some have 4 position
switches, those have an AC feed to demag the work as needed.

Arc damage is likely due to the rectifier failing and sending AC through
the switch.


5) The magnet works if 110 volts DC is applied to it , bypassing the
above switch.

Good, they are not cheap to rewind.


I admit that I have never seen one of those in action and I do not
understand what function does the switch perform. Does it only turn
the magnet on and off and perhaps provide different magnetic strength?

Most are OFF,
Position - lower power to magnet so you can set the machine up and it
stays in place.
Then a Bore position. You get the drill set up, then just prior to using
it switch the magnet to full power to lock it down solid. Once you have
the hole bored you switch back to the lower setting. Keeps you from
overheating the coils.

Many also pull the drill motors power from the AC pins on the rectifier.



Or does it provide a demagnetizing function somehow? (I would expect
it to be unlikely as AC does not go into the switch).

I could take the easy route, junk everything, and replace it with a
new rectifier, connected directly to thhe magnet, and a AC input
switch.

That would work BUT with that magnet on full power you won't be able to
adjust the position of the drill. Wouldn't be a big issue if you're
boring vertical down. Any other position you want the lower power.


My question is,

1) how functionality much would I be missing with such simple wiring?
2) Given that the DC current at 110 volts is about 1.2 amps, how
likely would I be to overheat the magnet? (about 130 watts)
3) Anything else that I am missing?

I need to use this drill badly for two projects.

thanks


Well for a temporary set-up you might connect the rectifier up then feed
it AC through a light dimmer. Then you could dial the power up to hold
the drill in position, and turn it on full with a direct switch (only
because I wouldn't trust the dimmer)Then once you get the project done
get some better controls.

You could also try a transformer and switch BEFORE the rectifier.

for only 130 watts, a small variac would be ideal for this.
And a 600 watt dimmer would be cheaper, smaller, lighter, and
simpler.

OK, I guess, though I'd rather trust a variac than a home depot dimmer. But as you said earlier, ALWAYS use safety chains. Having that puppy land on your foot would probably ruin your weekend.

hey guys, best way to bypass a magnet on a milwaukee 4203?


Remove (1) lead to the magnet coil.

Why?

Mine doesnt have any low power setting..its either on or off.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...47823891262210
That is a 3/4" drill bit btw...mine is fairly large.....

Gunner

What make and model of drill is this?

On Monday, March 21, 2016 at 1:06:27 AM UTC+2, Christopher Tidy wrote:
What make and model of drill is this?

Good morning,

I've got a Unibor EQ35N mag base drill ( 240 volt) The drill part is working fine However the magnet does not clamp. I have replaced the rectifier but still doesn't clamp. Is there a way to fix this or do I have to replace the magnet. ?? . . .It's got a on/off switch which activates the magnet and then a separate on/off switch to start the drilling machine. Please help !! Thanks