1948 Pontiac Hydramatic needs a spacer so I can install non-original seals between the transmission output shaft housing and the drive line.

Spacer: Outside diameter 2.017" +0, -0.05: Inside diameter 1.500" +0.05, -0: Width approximately 3/8".

How best to make this on a lathe. Material would be a 3" square of aluminium about 3/4" thick. Have 3 jaw and 4 jaw chucks available. Mind you, this is simply a spacer. It will not rotate or have anything moving against it. I suppose I could buy a bunch of large washers, bore them, place on an arbor and reduce the diameter and then stack them up until I reach approximately 3/8".

Any advice, especially lathe procedures would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Ivan Vegvary

On Friday, October 3, 2014 9:58:15 PM UTC-5, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
1948 Pontiac Hydramatic needs a spacer so I can install non-original seals between the transmission output shaft housing and the drive line.



Spacer: Outside diameter 2.017" +0, -0.05: Inside diameter 1.500" +0.05, -0: Width approximately 3/8".



How best to make this on a lathe. Material would be a 3" square of aluminium about 3/4" thick. Have 3 jaw and 4 jaw chucks available. Mind you, this is simply a spacer. It will not rotate or have anything moving against it. I suppose I could buy a bunch of large washers, bore them, place on an arbor and reduce the diameter and then stack them up until I reach approximately 3/8".



Any advice, especially lathe procedures would be greatly appreciated.



Thank you,



Ivan Vegvary

McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-al...tubing/=tzykjn

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
1948 Pontiac Hydramatic needs a spacer so I can install non-original
seals between the transmission output shaft housing and the drive
line.

Spacer: Outside diameter 2.017" +0, -0.05: Inside diameter 1.500"
+0.05, -0: Width approximately 3/8".

How best to make this on a lathe. Material would be a 3" square of
aluminium about 3/4" thick. Have 3 jaw and 4 jaw chucks available.
Mind you, this is simply a spacer. It will not rotate or have
anything moving against it. I suppose I could buy a bunch of large
washers, bore them, place on an arbor and reduce the diameter and
then stack them up until I reach approximately 3/8".

Any advice, especially lathe procedures would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Ivan Vegvary

Is absolute concentricity an issue ? How accurately will your 3 jaw center
? I'd grab it in the 4 jaw to bore the ID , then move it to the 3 (with
inside jaws) to bore the OD . Then you can use either one to machine it to
length , whichever works best for that length . You might consider using a
hole saw to remove most of the inside and a bandsaw to trim the OD . Save a
lot of machine time ...
Oh , and your tolerances , did you really mean .05" ? I'd think .005"
might be more in line with the application . --
Snag

Yes I meant 0.005".
No, concentricity totally unimportant.
BTW, I misspoke. I need a 1.5" spinning shaft to clear free of the spacer. Ergo, any diameter larfer than 1.5" will do.

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary

On Fri, 3 Oct 2014 22:25:21 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
1948 Pontiac Hydramatic needs a spacer so I can install non-original
seals between the transmission output shaft housing and the drive
line.

Spacer: Outside diameter 2.017" +0, -0.05: Inside diameter 1.500"
+0.05, -0: Width approximately 3/8".

How best to make this on a lathe. Material would be a 3" square of
aluminium about 3/4" thick. Have 3 jaw and 4 jaw chucks available.
Mind you, this is simply a spacer. It will not rotate or have
anything moving against it. I suppose I could buy a bunch of large
washers, bore them, place on an arbor and reduce the diameter and
then stack them up until I reach approximately 3/8".

Any advice, especially lathe procedures would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Ivan Vegvary

Is absolute concentricity an issue ? How accurately will your 3 jaw center
? I'd grab it in the 4 jaw to bore the ID , then move it to the 3 (with
inside jaws) to bore the OD . Then you can use either one to machine it to
length , whichever works best for that length . You might consider using a
hole saw to remove most of the inside and a bandsaw to trim the OD . Save a
lot of machine time ...
Oh , and your tolerances , did you really mean .05" ? I'd think .005"
might be more in line with the application . --
Snag

Chuck up a chunk of aluminum, turn to diameter and length..add enough
to fit a cutoff tool behind it and then simply part if off, Finish
with a burr cutter and stick it in. Its not rocket science.


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

Ivan Vegvary fired this volley in news:231bc238-
:

Any advice, especially lathe procedures would be greatly appreciated.

It's a simple boring (both lathe and ho-hum) job.

Chuck it in the 4-jaw with more than 3/8" overhanging. Bore, turn to
o.d., face, cut off a little long.

Mount 3-jaw. Flip the work, and face the other end to get the right
thickness. (index the faced surface against a block to get the piece
square to the axis)

It's a huge, thick piece. There's plenty of meat to chuck both times.

Lloyd

"Terry Coombs" fired this volley in news:BMJXv.266817
:

then move it to the 3 (with
inside jaws) to bore the OD .

Terry, how do you 'bore' an o.d.?
Lloyd

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
1948 Pontiac Hydramatic needs a spacer so I can install non-original
seals between the transmission output shaft housing and the drive
line.

Spacer: Outside diameter 2.017" +0, -0.05: Inside diameter 1.500"
+0.05, -0: Width approximately 3/8".

How best to make this on a lathe. Material would be a 3" square of
aluminium about 3/4" thick. Have 3 jaw and 4 jaw chucks available.
Mind you, this is simply a spacer. It will not rotate or have
anything moving against it. I suppose I could buy a bunch of large
washers, bore them, place on an arbor and reduce the diameter and then
stack them up until I reach approximately 3/8".

Any advice, especially lathe procedures would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Ivan Vegvary

==========

Do you have a faceplate? If so it's a simple job if you mount plywood
on it, true the face flat and attach your blank with screws through
the waste area to rough it and then finger clamps inside or outside to
finish. The wood lets you cut across the full thickness of the ring
and the finger clamps don't distort it. Cut the 3/8" dimension before
you break down the roughing setup.

The piece is small enough that you could improvise a faceplate from a
chucked pipe nipple and flange, preferably the largest that fits your
chuck's center hole for more rigidity and less chatter. It wouldn't
hurt to pin the threaded joint or lock it with a conduit nut.

I remove central cores like this in brass or aluminum with a hole saw
after loosening the leather drive belt. Steel is too demanding for my
MT2 tailstock.

-jsw

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Terry Coombs" fired this volley in
news:BMJXv.266817 :

then move it to the 3 (with
inside jaws) to bore the OD .

Terry, how do you 'bore' an o.d.?
Lloyd

Wrong term ... and I knew it as soon as I posted . Shoulda been "turn" the
OD .

--
Snag

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
1948 Pontiac Hydramatic needs a spacer so I can install non-original
seals between the transmission output shaft housing and the drive
line.

Spacer: Outside diameter 2.017" +0, -0.05: Inside diameter 1.500"
+0.05, -0: Width approximately 3/8".

How best to make this on a lathe. Material would be a 3" square of
aluminium about 3/4" thick. Have 3 jaw and 4 jaw chucks available.
...
Any advice, especially lathe procedures would be greatly
appreciated.

Ivan Vegvary

==========

Do you have a faceplate? If so it's a simple job if you mount
plywood on it, true the face flat and attach your blank with screws
through the waste area to rough it and then finger clamps inside or
outside to finish. ...

-jsw

Fender washers make good DIY finger clamps. Support their distal side
with a flathead screw driven in to the height of the work surface.
They should be safer than bar stock if they contact the tool bit or
your hand.
-jsw

On Fri, 3 Oct 2014 19:58:12 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

1948 Pontiac Hydramatic needs a spacer so I can install non-original seals between the transmission output shaft housing and the drive line.

Spacer: Outside diameter 2.017" +0, -0.05: Inside diameter 1.500" +0.05, -0: Width approximately 3/8".

How best to make this on a lathe. Material would be a 3" square of aluminium about 3/4" thick. Have 3 jaw and 4 jaw chucks available. Mind you, this is simply a spacer. It will not rotate or have anything moving against it. I suppose I could buy a bunch of large washers, bore them, place on an arbor and reduce the diameter and then stack them up until I reach approximately 3/8".

Any advice, especially lathe procedures would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Ivan Vegvary
I'd grab an aluminum rigid conduit coupling, chuck it into the 3 jaw,
turn down the exterior diameter, bore out the inside diameter, and
then part it off. Install in the housing with loctite sleave locker.

On Sat, 04 Oct 2014 06:33:47 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Ivan Vegvary fired this volley in news:231bc238-
:

Any advice, especially lathe procedures would be greatly appreciated.

It's a simple boring (both lathe and ho-hum) job.

Chuck it in the 4-jaw with more than 3/8" overhanging. Bore, turn to
o.d., face, cut off a little long.

Mount 3-jaw. Flip the work, and face the other end to get the right
thickness. (index the faced surface against a block to get the piece
square to the axis)

It's a huge, thick piece. There's plenty of meat to chuck both times.

Lloyd
Why make all those chips from a solid block instead of using a
"pipe" to start with??

fired this volley in
news
Why make all those chips from a solid block instead of using a
"pipe" to start with??


BECAUSE, he's GOT a block. He doesn't HAVE a pipe.

Chips (and time) aren't his issues. Materials and methods are.

Sometimes I think you don't read the OP before you post.

Lloyd

fired this volley in
news
Why make all those chips from a solid block instead of using a
"pipe" to start with??

Besides... aluminum conduit coupler? Really? Did you even BOTHER to
read the OP?

" Spacer: Outside diameter 2.017" +0, -0.05: Inside diameter 1.500"
+0.05, -0: Width approximately 3/8". "

That would be a pretty thick-walled 'coupler' even in 1.5" size, now,
wouldn't it? 1/4" walls? Really?

Lloyd

On Sat, 04 Oct 2014 19:38:08 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

fired this volley in
news
Why make all those chips from a solid block instead of using a
"pipe" to start with??


BECAUSE, he's GOT a block. He doesn't HAVE a pipe.

Chips (and time) aren't his issues. Materials and methods are.

Sometimes I think you don't read the OP before you post.

Lloyd
I read ir. The proper material is easily available and makes the job
a lot easier., but then some guys never do anything the easy way.

On Sat, 04 Oct 2014 19:44:02 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

fired this volley in
news
Why make all those chips from a solid block instead of using a
"pipe" to start with??

Besides... aluminum conduit coupler? Really? Did you even BOTHER to
read the OP?

" Spacer: Outside diameter 2.017" +0, -0.05: Inside diameter 1.500"
+0.05, -0: Width approximately 3/8". "

That would be a pretty thick-walled 'coupler' even in 1.5" size, now,
wouldn't it? 1/4" walls? Really?

Lloyd
A latrobe 1532 is going to be pretty close. Mabee not quite thick
enough - I don't have one at hand.. Sched 80 1 1/2" is a wee bit too
small.

If you need to start with solid, round would be my choice - and even
if I needed to start with square I'd DRILL the center out.
Being it only needs to be 3/8" thick I'd more likely start with a
chunk of plate instead of a block.
Hole saw a blank 2 1/4" or whatever, chuck it in the 3 jaw, drill out
the center, bore close to size, chuck onto the 3 jaw, finish the
outside diameter, rechuck in the 3 jaw and finish the ID. His
required accuracy is not terribly high.

Or rough out the blank from plate with band saw, drill out center and
continue as above.

But yes, there are many ways to do it. Likely as many ways as there
are guys who would try it - -

On Sat, 04 Oct 2014 19:52:32 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 04 Oct 2014 06:33:47 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Ivan Vegvary fired this volley in news:231bc238-
:

Any advice, especially lathe procedures would be greatly appreciated.

It's a simple boring (both lathe and ho-hum) job.

Chuck it in the 4-jaw with more than 3/8" overhanging. Bore, turn to
o.d., face, cut off a little long.

Mount 3-jaw. Flip the work, and face the other end to get the right
thickness. (index the faced surface against a block to get the piece
square to the axis)

It's a huge, thick piece. There's plenty of meat to chuck both times.

Lloyd
Why make all those chips from a solid block instead of using a
"pipe" to start with??

Because seldom is the hold the right size when using Pipe. Often
times..its too big.

Sched 160 pipe may be of some..some help..but having any of that
around simply takes up space unless you use a lot of it.

A block or round of material on the other hand..can be turned into a
lot of things. Not to mention Ive turned blocks into rounds and
rounds into blocks when I needed a specific material and only one the
wrong shape.


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Sat, 04 Oct 2014 20:54:18 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 04 Oct 2014 19:38:08 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

fired this volley in
news
Why make all those chips from a solid block instead of using a
"pipe" to start with??


BECAUSE, he's GOT a block. He doesn't HAVE a pipe.

Chips (and time) aren't his issues. Materials and methods are.

Sometimes I think you don't read the OP before you post.

Lloyd
I read ir. The proper material is easily available and makes the job
a lot easier., but then some guys never do anything the easy way.

Easily available for him? Or for you?

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

fired this volley in
:

A latrobe 1532 is going to be pretty close. Mabee not quite thick
enough - I don't have one at hand.. Sched 80 1 1/2" is a wee bit too
small.


Oh, well, then! I'll just tell him to run down to the Latrobe Parts
Depot and just pick one up! What was I _thinking_?

Oh... wait... you don't have one, either. 'Guess you will have to run
down to the LPD, too, huh?

sigh
SOMEtimes, it costs less worry, trouble, time, gas, and ****ed-off-edness
to just use WTF you have lying around, instead of RUNNING around trying
to find exotic "almost done" parts to re-machine.

Lloyd

Project finished! Thanks everyone. Scrounged my shop and found a piece of 1.5" ABS pipe that had a coupler glued on. Cut through middle of coupler, chucked 1.5" pipe, bored to 1.6"(plenty of clearance), turned down to 2.17" and parted off to 3/8". It's just a spacer, nothing rubbing against it, simply keeping me from driving the seal too deep.
Thank you!
Ivan Vegvary