Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Removing arbor from Jacobs #14

Whew, it worked. I needed to remove a 2MT arbor from a 1/2" Jacobs
chuck. I tried ice & acetone, no joy. Then propane torch to chuck
body, followed by ice & acetone (torch work separated from acetone).
Off it came! Slight rust in JT3, I'll use very light abrasive pad to
remove.

I'm going to install a straight shank arbor so I can use this in my
Hardinge TM. Or Delta 11" headstock, for that matter. Need to drill a
clearance hole for the boring head to bore 3/8". 5/16" isn't quite
large enough, and I don't have 5C collets beyond 16th's, except a few
specials.

I'm building a belt grinder for my son's knife making. The parts in
question are the cylinder pivot for the pneumatic belt change (3-way
valve) and tension adjustment (pressure regulator). The grinder frame
verticals are 2" pipe, manifolded together with 1" square tube. That's
the air tank. The whole thing will be similar to a KMG from Beaumont
Metal Works, with a few additions.

I'd rather stay home and work on it, but it's back to the coast for a
week of fishing. My wife is fanatical about it.

Pete Keillor
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Default Removing arbor from Jacobs #14

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
...
Whew, it worked. I needed to remove a 2MT arbor from a 1/2" Jacobs
chuck. I tried ice & acetone, no joy. Then propane torch to chuck
body, followed by ice & acetone (torch work separated from acetone).
Off it came! Slight rust in JT3, I'll use very light abrasive pad to
remove.


Do you know about the wedges?
http://www.jacobschuck.com/drill-chuck-install.asp
-jsw


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Default Removing arbor from Jacobs #14

On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 12:22:28 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
.. .
Whew, it worked. I needed to remove a 2MT arbor from a 1/2" Jacobs
chuck. I tried ice & acetone, no joy. Then propane torch to chuck
body, followed by ice & acetone (torch work separated from acetone).
Off it came! Slight rust in JT3, I'll use very light abrasive pad to
remove.


Do you know about the wedges?
http://www.jacobschuck.com/drill-chuck-install.asp
-jsw

Yes, I used them. Don't work so hot on a 2MT arbor, though. It's too
small. I clamped the hell out of the arbor in aluminum jaw inserts in
my Wilton 5" machinist vise.

Pete
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Default Removing arbor from Jacobs #14

In article ,
Pete Keillor wrote:

On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 12:22:28 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
.. .
Whew, it worked. I needed to remove a 2MT arbor from a 1/2" Jacobs
chuck. I tried ice & acetone, no joy. Then propane torch to chuck
body, followed by ice & acetone (torch work separated from acetone).
Off it came! Slight rust in JT3, I'll use very light abrasive pad to
remove.


Do you know about the wedges?
http://www.jacobschuck.com/drill-chuck-install.asp
-jsw

Yes, I used them. Don't work so hot on a 2MT arbor, though. It's too
small. I clamped the hell out of the arbor in aluminum jaw inserts in
my Wilton 5" machinist vise.

Pete


In the past when wedges and other methods didn't work I drilled a hole
inside the jaw opening into the body and used a drift.

CP
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Default Removing arbor from Jacobs #14

On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 10:36:09 -0700, Pilgrim
wrote:

In article ,
Pete Keillor wrote:

On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 12:22:28 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
.. .
Whew, it worked. I needed to remove a 2MT arbor from a 1/2" Jacobs
chuck. I tried ice & acetone, no joy. Then propane torch to chuck
body, followed by ice & acetone (torch work separated from acetone).
Off it came! Slight rust in JT3, I'll use very light abrasive pad to
remove.


Do you know about the wedges?
http://www.jacobschuck.com/drill-chuck-install.asp
-jsw

Yes, I used them. Don't work so hot on a 2MT arbor, though. It's too
small. I clamped the hell out of the arbor in aluminum jaw inserts in
my Wilton 5" machinist vise.

Pete


In the past when wedges and other methods didn't work I drilled a hole
inside the jaw opening into the body and used a drift.

CP


Ayup. Got some 1MT chucks that required that a few years ago.


"Libertarianism IS fascism... Fascism is corporate government – a Libertarian’s wet dream"
Tala Brandeis
Owner at Tala Brandeis Associates"


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Default Removing arbor from Jacobs #14

On Wed, 11 Jun 2014 12:22:28 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
.. .
Whew, it worked. I needed to remove a 2MT arbor from a 1/2" Jacobs
chuck. I tried ice & acetone, no joy. Then propane torch to chuck
body, followed by ice & acetone (torch work separated from acetone).
Off it came! Slight rust in JT3, I'll use very light abrasive pad to
remove.


Do you know about the wedges?
http://www.jacobschuck.com/drill-chuck-install.asp
-jsw

When I needed them a couple years ago, I couldn't find any locally so
put a brass bar lightly in the chuck and gave it a swat with a BFH.
---

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada
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