"Guv Bob" fired this volley in
m:

"It only needs to filter particles of about 200 microns (0.0078 inch)
and larger in size. Filters that trap extremely small particles are
not necessary and are more likely to restrict flow to the point of
overheating."


It sounds to me like it would clog up in mere minutes!

I have the top 1/3 of a 5-gallon plastic bucket with a 20-mesh SS screen
"ironed" to the bottom as my coolant filter. Nothing larger than about
0.038" ever gets back into the sump. (opening size is always smaller than
mesh size).

A centrifugal pump won't bitch about 0.038" solids, and if any small
chips accumulate in the coolant flow valve, you can just momentarily open
it all the way to clear those.

Total cost, about $9.00.

Maybe AFTER the screen, then you could use a finer filter...

LLoyd

I have a inline filter with a transparent bowl, that I use for
coolant, it works great.

i

I figgered some of you fellers might something like this on a machine coolant. Has anyone ever installed a coolant filter in an auto radiator hose and had good luck with it? They use them in diesels and antique cars.

These are 2 that I found online. Don't no nuthin about 'em except they are both $70. That's a little high to try something out. I would go for it if it were in the $20-30 range.

Tefba Inline Radiator Coolant Filter
http://www.tefba.com/
Unscrew the top and change the filter element without having to break the line.

http://www.ganofilters.com/
Clear plastic sounds like a good idea but I would probably go with the metal housing.

I don't know the filter rating for these two, but this feller (below) says 200 micron (77 mesh) is fine enough. A human hair is about 70 microns.

"It only needs to filter particles of about 200 microns (0.0078 inch) and larger in size. Filters that trap extremely small particles are not necessary and are more likely to restrict flow to the point of overheating."
From "Repeat Component Failure Requires Heroic Efforts"
By Kevin S. McCartney
https://secure.i-toolkit.com/www_cia...CONTA&k=1&pp=1

"Ignoramus24415" wrote in message ...
I have a inline filter with a transparent bowl, that I use for
coolant, it works great.

i

Thanks. Is it in your car or shop?

Guv Bob wrote:

I figgered some of you fellers might something like this on a machine coolant. Has anyone ever installed a coolant filter in an auto radiator hose and had good luck with it? They use them in diesels and antique cars.

These are 2 that I found online. Don't no nuthin about 'em except they are both $70. That's a little high to try something out. I would go for it if it were in the $20-30 range.

Tefba Inline Radiator Coolant Filter
http://www.tefba.com/
Unscrew the top and change the filter element without having to break the line.

http://www.ganofilters.com/
Clear plastic sounds like a good idea but I would probably go with the metal housing.

I don't know the filter rating for these two, but this feller (below) says 200 micron (77 mesh) is fine enough. A human hair is about 70 microns.

"It only needs to filter particles of about 200 microns (0.0078 inch) and larger in size. Filters that trap extremely small particles are not necessary and are more likely to restrict flow to the point of overheating."
From "Repeat Component Failure Requires Heroic Efforts"
By Kevin S. McCartney
https://secure.i-toolkit.com/www_cia...CONTA&k=1&pp=1

Is this for a vehicle or machine coolant?

For machine coolant I use an ordinary household 9" filter sump with the
basic 5 micron sediment filters and it works well. You mostly filter
chips and they don't clog it readily, and the household filters handle
plenty of GPM.

For vehicle coolant there are a lot of options, but you have to be
careful which you select as some intended for semis and the like include
SCA (supplemental coolant additive) tablets in them which are not
appropriate for smaller engines.

On 2014-05-27, Guv Bob wrote:
"Ignoramus24415" wrote in message ...
I have a inline filter with a transparent bowl, that I use for
coolant, it works great.

i

Thanks. Is it in your car or shop?


shop

For machine coolant I use an ordinary household 9" filter sump with
the
basic 5 micron sediment filters and it works well. You mostly filter
chips and they don't clog it readily, and the household filters handle
plenty of GPM.

In a machine shop where I worked, the boss had set up all the grinders with
a common 'sock' filter just strapped onto the suction hose for the pump.

Worked fine.

Lloyd

"Pete C." wrote in message ...

Guv Bob wrote:

I figgered some of you fellers might something like this on a machine coolant. Has anyone ever installed a coolant filter in an auto radiator hose and had good luck with it? They use them in diesels and antique cars.

These are 2 that I found online. Don't no nuthin about 'em except they are both $70. That's a little high to try something out. I would go for it if it were in the $20-30 range.

Tefba Inline Radiator Coolant Filter
http://www.tefba.com/
Unscrew the top and change the filter element without having to break the line.

http://www.ganofilters.com/
Clear plastic sounds like a good idea but I would probably go with the metal housing.

I don't know the filter rating for these two, but this feller (below) says 200 micron (77 mesh) is fine enough. A human hair is about 70 microns.

"It only needs to filter particles of about 200 microns (0.0078 inch) and larger in size. Filters that trap extremely small particles are not necessary and are more likely to restrict flow to the point of overheating."
From "Repeat Component Failure Requires Heroic Efforts"
By Kevin S. McCartney
https://secure.i-toolkit.com/www_cia...CONTA&k=1&pp=1

Is this for a vehicle or machine coolant?

For machine coolant I use an ordinary household 9" filter sump with the
basic 5 micron sediment filters and it works well. You mostly filter
chips and they don't clog it readily, and the household filters handle
plenty of GPM.

For vehicle coolant there are a lot of options, but you have to be
careful which you select as some intended for semis and the like include
SCA (supplemental coolant additive) tablets in them which are not
appropriate for smaller engines.

I'm looking at installing something like one of those in old cars that I buy and fix up. Some of these take a lot of flushing and never do get all the solids out. I figure I would install one and check it ever week or so and get them back on the road sooner.

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

For machine coolant I use an ordinary household 9" filter sump with
the
basic 5 micron sediment filters and it works well. You mostly filter
chips and they don't clog it readily, and the household filters handle
plenty of GPM.

In a machine shop where I worked, the boss had set up all the grinders with
a common 'sock' filter just strapped onto the suction hose for the pump.

Worked fine.

Lloyd

Many or even most machine coolant pumps have a submerged impeller
assembly with no suction hose, which means filtering is generally done
on the output side. The $20 household filter sumps work well and since
the chips can typically just be cleaned out of the housing and rinsed
off the filter cartridge, the filter cartridge lasts a long time. I
looked at mesh strainer assemblies intended for crop sprayers and they
cost more and wouldn't work any better.

"Pete C." fired this volley in news:53854e66$0$58330
:

Many or even most machine coolant pumps have a submerged impeller
assembly with no suction hose,

Yeah... I should have said 'return hose'. He had a separate pump basin
well below the chip/coolant pan.

For certain, his filter was on the return side.

Lloyd

On Tue, 27 May 2014 21:46:55 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

For machine coolant I use an ordinary household 9" filter sump with
the
basic 5 micron sediment filters and it works well. You mostly filter
chips and they don't clog it readily, and the household filters handle
plenty of GPM.

In a machine shop where I worked, the boss had set up all the grinders with
a common 'sock' filter just strapped onto the suction hose for the pump.

Worked fine.

Lloyd

Many or even most machine coolant pumps have a submerged impeller
assembly with no suction hose, which means filtering is generally done
on the output side. The $20 household filter sumps work well and since
the chips can typically just be cleaned out of the housing and rinsed
off the filter cartridge, the filter cartridge lasts a long time. I
looked at mesh strainer assemblies intended for crop sprayers and they
cost more and wouldn't work any better.

I installed high pressure coolant pumps at one of my clients shops.
They pump at 350 psi and needed a filter. So I put in a "chip
strainer" on the suction line (1.5" PVC) and it did a very nice job of
getting anything big enough to harm the pump OR plugging up the holes
in the drill bits we used. The holes tended to be about .015-.02

We picked 80 mesh baskets as thats almost .007 and was small enough to
pass only the small stuff.

Worked very well for the past 5 yrs. We did one..ran a nasty job on
it..and it worked so well that he paid for another 21 high pressure
pumps, hoses, filter units etc etc. About $750 each

The filters were cast iron bodies with a removable lid and a basket
inside that was very easy to remove, dump and install. One could do it
in about 60 seconds.

Gunner

--

"
I was once told by a “gun safety” advocate back in the Nineties
that he favored total civilian firearms confiscation.
Only the military and police should have weapons he averred and what did I think about that?

I began to give him a reasoned answer and he
cut me off with an abrupt, “Give me the short answer.”

I thought for a moment and said, “If you try to take our firearms we will kill you.”"

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message . 3.70...
"Pete C." fired this volley in news:53854e66$0$58330
:

Many or even most machine coolant pumps have a submerged impeller
assembly with no suction hose,

Yeah... I should have said 'return hose'. He had a separate pump basin
well below the chip/coolant pan.

For certain, his filter was on the return side.

Lloyd

In my case, I have to worry about temperature and pressure, and not a whole lot of space under the hood. Ideally it would be good to filter it just before going into the radiator, but probably not that practical.

Now I'm thinking about diverting the heater inlet hose to a large container down below and then back up to the heater. Make the container volume as large as there is room for to let the coolant slow down and drop out the heavier solids. That might be good enough and avoid having to use a filter.

On 5/28/2014 6:30 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 27 May 2014 21:46:55 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

For machine coolant I use an ordinary household 9" filter sump with
the
basic 5 micron sediment filters and it works well. You mostly filter
chips and they don't clog it readily, and the household filters handle
plenty of GPM.

In a machine shop where I worked, the boss had set up all the grinders with
a common 'sock' filter just strapped onto the suction hose for the pump.

Worked fine.

Lloyd

Many or even most machine coolant pumps have a submerged impeller
assembly with no suction hose, which means filtering is generally done
on the output side. The $20 household filter sumps work well and since
the chips can typically just be cleaned out of the housing and rinsed
off the filter cartridge, the filter cartridge lasts a long time. I
looked at mesh strainer assemblies intended for crop sprayers and they
cost more and wouldn't work any better.

I installed high pressure coolant pumps at one of my clients shops.
They pump at 350 psi and needed a filter. So I put in a "chip
strainer" on the suction line (1.5" PVC) and it did a very nice job of
getting anything big enough to harm the pump OR plugging up the holes
in the drill bits we used. The holes tended to be about .015-.02

We picked 80 mesh baskets as thats almost .007 and was small enough to
pass only the small stuff.

Worked very well for the past 5 yrs. We did one..ran a nasty job on
it..and it worked so well that he paid for another 21 high pressure
pumps, hoses, filter units etc etc. About $750 each

The filters were cast iron bodies with a removable lid and a basket
inside that was very easy to remove, dump and install. One could do it
in about 60 seconds.

Gunner

--

"
I was once told by a “gun safety” advocate back in the Nineties
that he favored total civilian firearms confiscation.
Only the military and police should have weapons he averred and what did I think about that?

I began to give him a reasoned answer and he
cut me off with an abrupt, “Give me the short answer.”

I thought for a moment and said, “If you try to take our firearms we will kill you.”"

Cool - some might remember about 10 or so years ago I mused about using
a hydrollic oil filter to my medium weight Hortz saw. Parker is the
brand. Many thought the standard 'paper' filter would just melt. I am
pleased to say that the other day I changed the filter at long last. It
started spewing cutting oil in a rusted out spot. Put on my spare and
will wait for the next spray or simply replace in 8 years... :-)

Mine has a screw on filter and a head that has two threaded hose
connections.

The concept I used was to limit the pumping of fine grit and steel back
at the blade. The blades last longer as well. The carbon blade still
cuts, the bi-metal blade I had in standby is still in the box. I've
cut SS rods, 1/4" 4x4 angle, plate and other odds and ends.

Just a thought - available filters world wide and a nice head to
interface two hoses to.

Martin