I figure some of you out there must have done this before!

I just got an Optimum D650 lathe (see link 1), and I’d also like to have a 12“ disc sander in my shop, but in my country (Germany) they are quite expensive, even used. I’m thinking of trying to kludge one on to back of the lathe, and mount a tilting table to the back cover (see link 2). This would save space, and I’m not that busy at the moment.

The biggest problem is that the end of the spindle is not threaded, and there’s not much to attach to back there. My idea is to mount the disc plate to a long rod which goes all the way through the spindle bore and is then held by the chuck. Since the spindle bore is only 26mm, I’d need to make some sort of adapter ring to make everything stable (See drawing – link 3). I feel like this should work, if a bit quixotic. Any ideas on whether or not I’m on the right track, or if there would be another way to attach the disc to the spindle? Ideas on the tilting table? I'm planning on doing everything with aluminum, since I don't have a milling machine.

Since I must regularly open the cover to change speed and feed rate, the whole business must be easy to remove. The cover is fairly beefy, so I think with some reinforcement bars I can mount a table which would work well enough.

Thanks for all constructive replies. Please no safety warnings! Also, no. I don't have to worry about voiding my warranty. The machine is twenty years old!

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps3e4545f7.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps9c7b821c.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps89a0f1b9.jpg

On Thursday, January 23, 2014 5:51:23 AM UTC-5, wrote:
I figure some of you out there must have done this before!



I just got an Optimum D650 lathe (see link 1), and I’d also like to have a 12“ disc sander in my shop, but in my country (Germany) they are quite expensive, even used. I’m thinking of trying to kludge one on to back of the lathe, and mount a tilting table to the back cover (see link 2). This would save space, and I’m not that busy at the moment.



The biggest problem is that the end of the spindle is not threaded, and there’s not much to attach to back there. My idea is to mount the disc plate to a long rod which goes all the way through the spindle bore and is then held by the chuck. Since the spindle bore is only 26mm, I’d need to make some sort of adapter ring to make everything stable (See drawing – link 3). I feel like this should work, if a bit quixotic. Any ideas on whether or not I’m on the right track, or if there would be another way to attach the disc to the spindle? Ideas on the tilting table? I'm planning on doing everything with aluminum, since I don't have a milling machine.



Since I must regularly open the cover to change speed and feed rate, the whole business must be easy to remove. The cover is fairly beefy, so I think with some reinforcement bars I can mount a table which would work well enough.



Thanks for all constructive replies. Please no safety warnings! Also, no. I don't have to worry about voiding my warranty. The machine is twenty years old!



http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps3e4545f7.jpg



http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps9c7b821c.jpg



http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps89a0f1b9.jpg

Is that a speaker hanging in pantyhose?

Is that a speaker hanging in pantyhose?

Yeah. Keeps the dust off!

wrote in message
...
I figure some of you out there must have done this before!

-I just got an Optimum D650 lathe (see link 1), and I’d also
-like to have a 12“ disc sander in my shop, but in my
-country (Germany) they are quite expensive, even used.
-I’m thinking of trying to kludge one on to back of the
-lathe, and mount a tilting table to the back cover
-(see link 2). This would save space, and I’m not that
-busy at the moment.

Maybe you could get some ideas from wood lathes with adapters to turn
oversized bowls on the left end of the spindle.

I greatly prefer a belt sander, which removes material at the same
rate everywhere. Disc sanders don't flatten surfaces very well because
the outside cuts faster. My father had a disc for his Shopsmith. The
paper came partly unglued and gouged the edge of the saw table.

I lived in southern Germany in the early 1970's. You have some
first-class hobby stores there!

And a milder climate. Ours is like central Russia, +40C in summer
and -20C in winter.

jsw

On Thursday, January 23, 2014 5:51:23 AM UTC-5, wrote:


I have not doee this, but if I were to do so I would machine the adapter where it contacts the rear of the spindle with a taper. Not a taper that will hold by itself, but one to center the adapter. And I would hawe a threaded section at the other end of the adapter. And use a nut to put a little tension on the adapter. That way you are not depending on the lathe chuck to hold the adapter.
Probably not needed, but it is what I would do.

Dan

wrote in message
...
On Thursday, January 23, 2014 5:51:23 AM UTC-5,
wrote:


I have not doee this, but if I were to do so I would machine the
adapter where it contacts the rear of the spindle with a taper. Not a
taper that will hold by itself, but one to center the adapter. And I
would hawe a threaded section at the other end of the adapter. And
use a nut to put a little tension on the adapter. That way you are
not depending on the lathe chuck to hold the adapter.
Probably not needed, but it is what I would do.

Dan
==================
I adapted a larger lathe's longer 5C collet closer tube to mine by
making a brass bushing that is a light press fit in the end of the
spindle and a close running fit on the tube. A shaft clamp serves as
the thrust-bearing flange on the collet closer. You could make a
similar steel collar that presses onto the shaft and is retained from
sliding by the disc, and turn the outside to a snug or tapered fit
into the spindle like Dan suggested.

Threaded rod works well for shafts that require short built-up areas
of larger diameter. Jam two nuts together very tightly and turn them
to the shape you want.
jsw

wrote in message
...
I figure some of you out there must have done this before!

I just got an Optimum D650 lathe (see link 1), and I’d also like to have a
12“ disc sander in my shop, but in my country (Germany) they are quite
expensive, even used. I’m thinking of trying to kludge one on to back of
the lathe, and mount a tilting table to the back cover (see link 2). This
would save space, and I’m not that busy at the moment.

The biggest problem is that the end of the spindle is not threaded, and
there’s not much to attach to back there. My idea is to mount the disc
plate to a long rod which goes all the way through the spindle bore and is
then held by the chuck. Since the spindle bore is only 26mm, I’d need to
make some sort of adapter ring to make everything stable (See drawing –
link 3). I feel like this should work, if a bit quixotic. Any ideas on
whether or not I’m on the right track, or if there would be another way to
attach the disc to the spindle? Ideas on the tilting table? I'm planning
on doing everything with aluminum, since I don't have a milling machine.

Since I must regularly open the cover to change speed and feed rate, the
whole business must be easy to remove. The cover is fairly beefy, so I
think with some reinforcement bars I can mount a table which would work
well enough.

Thanks for all constructive replies. Please no safety warnings! Also, no.
I don't have to worry about voiding my warranty. The machine is twenty
years old!


http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps3e4545f7.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps9c7b821c.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps89a0f1b9.jpg



I've chucked up all kinds of wild things on my mini lathe in a pinch. Its
always handy to have a horizontal motorized spinny thing in a pinch, but I
would have some concern about abrasive grit from the sanding disc getting
into the works of the lathe or even on the ways.

That being said, I kinda feel the same way as others about belt vs disc. I
have two combo machines and I use the belt parts all the time, but hardly
ever use the disc. I do have a tapering operation I do on one of them, but
I have seriously considered converting the other over to a buffing wheel
with a mandrel.






---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On 1/23/2014 8:03 AM, wrote:


Is that a speaker hanging in pantyhose?

Yeah. Keeps the dust off!



http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo340/robobass/lathe/lathe01_zps3e4545f7.jpg

How many times have you had to pull that chuck wrench out of your chest?

David

On 1/23/2014 10:44 AM, wrote:
On Thursday, January 23, 2014 5:51:23 AM UTC-5, wrote:


I have not doee this, but if I were to do so I would machine the adapter where it contacts the rear of the spindle with a taper. Not a taper that will hold by itself, but one to center the adapter. And I would hawe a threaded section at the other end of the adapter. And use a nut to put a little tension on the adapter. That way you are not depending on the lathe chuck to hold the adapter.
Probably not needed, but it is what I would do.

Dan


Very astute observation!

On 2014-01-23, wrote:
I figure some of you out there must have done this before!

I just got an Optimum D650 lathe (see link 1), and I?d also like to
have a 12? disc sander in my shop, but in my country (Germany) they are
quite expensive, even used. I?m thinking of trying to kludge one on to
back of the lathe, and mount a tilting table to the back cover (see link
2). This would save space, and I?m not that busy at the moment.

My first question is "can your lathe produce sufficient speed for
a sanding disc to work well?". It looks as though your maximum RPM is
2200. Normally, the speeds are significantly higher. Is that 12 inch
diameter? I see a '?' with my system where I would expect a '"' for
inches. Did you compose this with a web browser? On Yahoo, I suspect
so. Spell out units if using a web browser, as they tend to install
weird characters which won't work with a plain text newsreader or e-mail
client.

Second -- how are you going to keep the sanding dust from
rapidly abrading the ways of the lathe? I would put a disc sander as
far as possible away from the lathe or any other precision machine
tools. The grit from the sanding disc is *very* bad for the ways.

And -- another safety point brought on by your photo of the
lathe itself. *Never* leave the chuck key in the chuck -- even just for
a photograph. If you hit the power switch, that chuck key gets thrown
at a rather impressive velocity -- assuming that it does not simply slam
into the ways of the lathe, damaging them.

The biggest problem is that the end of the spindle is not threaded,
and there?s not much to attach to back there. My idea is to mount the
disc plate to a long rod which goes all the way through the spindle bore
and is then held by the chuck. Since the spindle bore is only 26mm, I?d
need to make some sort of adapter ring to make everything stable (See
drawing ? link 3). I feel like this should work, if a bit quixotic. Any
ideas on whether or not I?m on the right track, or if there would be
another way to attach the disc to the spindle? Ideas on the tilting
table? I'm planning on doing everything with aluminum, since I don't
have a milling machine.

Is the lathe large enough to turn a 12 inch disk of aluminum?
You'll have to saw it to something a bit oversized and turn it down.

Also -- does it have the horsepower to proerly turn a 12 inch
sanding disc at the maximum speed which it can achieve.

Anyway -- I would turn a plug which would just barely fit into
the open end of the spindle, then drill most of the way through and tap
for a large setscrew (say 1/2 inch or so (or 13 mm or so), with a cone
point), and then using a hacksaw or bandsaw if you don't have a milling
machine, cut through the diameter on the inside end twice -- the second
at 90 degrees to the first. At this point, when you run the setscrew
into the center it will eventually hit the bottom of the drill hole and
expand the plug to grip it firmly into the spindle.

To this you will bolt your 12 inch disk. (Actually -- do this
bolting before you turn the disk to diameter, so it will be concentric.

Since I must regularly open the cover to change speed and feed rate,
the whole business must be easy to remove.

If you punch a hole in the center of the sanding disc (which is
moving too slowly to be of use sanding anyway) you can reach through
there with the Allen (hex) key to loosen the setscrew and pull off the disc.

The cover is fairly beefy, so
I think with some reinforcement bars I can mount a table which would
work well enough.

Again -- I would not put sanding operations this close to the
precision machine surfaces.

Better to go ahead and make the disc and hub (without the
expanding split grip I described above) and get a used electric motor of
adequate size and bore the hub to slip on the end of the motor shaft.
Get at least a 3600 RPM (really marked something like 3450 RPM or so)
and I think at least a 1/2 HP motor for that large a disc -- and more
likely a 1 HP motor. (In Germany, probably marked in KW instead of HP,
figure about 0.750 KW is about one HP.) Sorry for the inch figures, but
I *think* you used inches for the diameter of the sanding disc, anyway,
even though the ID of the spindle is just slightly over 1" (25.4 mm).
:-)

If you can't get a motor faster than about 1750 RPM, then plan
to add a pair of pulleys and a belt to increase the speed. Mount the
motor below a workbench, and the disc above it, so the weight of the
motor can put tension on the belt.

Drill the hub underized, and use a boring bar to enlarge to a
slip fit on the motor shaft -- a drill bit will typically be oversized.

Thanks for all constructive replies. Please no safety warnings!

Sorry! Already typed the one about the chuck key. And I could
not let that one go unremarked, anyway.

Also,
no. I don't have to worry about voiding my warranty. The machine is
twenty years old!

But you *do* have to worry about abrading the accuracy out of the
bed.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps3e4545f7.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps9c7b821c.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps89a0f1b9.jpg

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 23/01/2014 10:03 PM, wrote:


Is that a speaker hanging in pantyhose?

Yeah. Keeps the dust off!


Haha, I saw that too and wondered why.

I figured the pantyhose were a neat solution to hang something like a
speaker from an existing nail in the wall.

My first question is "can your lathe produce sufficient speed for

a sanding disc to work well?". It looks as though your maximum RPM is

2200. Normally, the speeds are significantly higher. Is that 12 inch

diameter?


Good points. The machine is 750 watts, and yes, 2200 rpm max. I can turn a max of 14.5cm radius, so the disc could be up to 11.4 in. I have a guy nearby with a small shop and a bigger lathe, however. The standard disc size here is 300mm, or 11.8 in.

Second -- how are you going to keep the sanding dust from

rapidly abrading the ways of the lathe? I would put a disc sander as

far as possible away from the lathe or any other precision machine

tools. The grit from the sanding disc is *very* bad for the ways.

I agree that having the disc on the chuck side is a bad idea, but if I mount it to the back, I don't see so much dust hitting the weighs.


And -- another safety point brought on by your photo of the

lathe itself. *Never* leave the chuck key in the chuck -

Yeah, I have a bad habit of doing this. Thanks!




Anyway -- I would turn a plug which would just barely fit into

the open end of the spindle, then drill most of the way through and tap

for a large setscrew (say 1/2 inch or so (or 13 mm or so), with a cone

point), and then using a hacksaw or bandsaw if you don't have a milling

machine, cut through the diameter on the inside end twice -- the second

at 90 degrees to the first. At this point, when you run the setscrew

into the center it will eventually hit the bottom of the drill hole and

expand the plug to grip it firmly into the spindle.

Good Idea!




If you punch a hole in the center of the sanding disc (which is

moving too slowly to be of use sanding anyway) you can reach through

there with the Allen (hex) key to loosen the setscrew and pull off the disc.



The cover is fairly beefy, so

I think with some reinforcement bars I can mount a table which would

work well enough.



Again -- I would not put sanding operations this close to the

precision machine surfaces.



Better to go ahead and make the disc and hub (without the

expanding split grip I described above) and get a used electric motor of

adequate size and bore the hub to slip on the end of the motor shaft.

Get at least a 3600 RPM (really marked something like 3450 RPM or so)

and I think at least a 1/2 HP motor for that large a disc -- and more

likely a 1 HP motor. (In Germany, probably marked in KW instead of HP,

figure about 0.750 KW is about one HP.) Sorry for the inch figures, but

I *think* you used inches for the diameter of the sanding disc, anyway,

even though the ID of the spindle is just slightly over 1" (25.4 mm).

At this point I would just break down and buy a sander. Now that I think about it, by the time I add up the hours and Euros to do any of this it seems to not pay off. I can get a lower end machine for about $240. It's just that it would be so cool to have one sticking off of the back of the lathe, saving a lot of space.

Thanks Don, I used to post as Robobass when I had a shop in Brooklyn back in the '90's. Not many of the old guard seem to still be around! I've been without toys since I went overseas 12 years ago, and am now putting together a proper shop once again.

I greatly prefer a belt sander, which removes material at the same

rate everywhere. Disc sanders don't flatten surfaces very well because

the outside cuts faster. My father had a disc for his Shopsmith. The

paper came partly unglued and gouged the edge of the saw table.

When I had an art fabrication shop in NY me and my co-workers found the 12in. disc sander to be one of the most useful tools. I suppose it depends on what you're doing.

I lived in southern Germany in the early 1970's. You have some

first-class hobby stores there!

Not anymore!

And a milder climate. Ours is like central Russia, +40C in summer

and -20C in winter.

True, it has only frozen in Cologne one or two days this winter. It's not usually this warm though. Last year my daughter x-country skied to kindergarten for much of January!

I figured the pantyhose were a neat solution to hang something like a

speaker from an existing nail in the wall.

Well, true on both counts. I make a lot of dust. That was the impetus to cover the speakers with pantyhose (black would probably look better), but then you also have a very practical way to hang the speaker. I'm an incorrigible recycler. All of the cabinets, tables, shelves, and stands in my shop were collected from refuse heaps, or neighbors planning to toss their stuff and me offering to save them time and trouble. In fact, a lot of the fixtures in my apartment are made from found objects. Over the years, I have picked up a lot of good wood, and some high end Hi-Fi gear which needed only minor repair. Call me a dung digger, but I bet my stereo is better than yours!

wrote in message
...


At this point I would just break down and buy a sander. Now that I
think about it, by the time I add up the hours and Euros to do any of
this it seems to not pay off. I can get a lower end machine for about
$240. It's just that it would be so cool to have one sticking off of
the back of the lathe, saving a lot of space.

=================

I Googled "Bandschleifer preisvergleich" and see what you mean about
their cost:
http://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/...d=e4Qn_wGD-Fp_

The Westfalia MD150 looks decent for wood and the Scheppach 700 for
metal or curved wood edges. I have a similar Delta (minus the
"Teller") with a 1" belt that I use more than the wider one, mostly
for deburring and rounding cut metal edges with the more flexible
unsupported area above the platen.

The Guede, Ferm and Berlan resemble the Chinese imports sold here for
$50. They are a lot better than nothing, though a 350W motor isn't
really adequate for more than delicate finishing.

You do need some sort of Staubfaenger unless you work outdoors, to
keep the finer airborne grit off the lathe. Even wood sawdust can
quickly cause rust if it's damp.

jsw

JSW,

I already have the Westfalia MD150, or at least a version which I got cheap from an Aldi type store. 2 inch wide belt. Very useful. And still works well after 10 years regular use! I couldn't pin down your other suggestions, but "Ferm" is a brand which was sold through the now defunct "Max Bahr". Based on my experience with their biscuit joiner, I would never buy anything with this mark. I think that it is also true in the USA that the machines sold in the big box stores are intentionally made crappy. I don't get it. Do the big retailers want to frustrate you and force you to hire contractors? It's sort of like restaurants. In Europe, at least, the closer you are to a major train hub, the worse the food is. I want to ask sometimes, "would it have cost you any more money to serve me a pizza which didn't taste like poop?" I just don't get it...

On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 04:44:56 -0800 (PST), robobass
wrote:


I figured the pantyhose were a neat solution to hang something like a

speaker from an existing nail in the wall.

Well, true on both counts. I make a lot of dust. That was the impetus to cover the speakers with pantyhose (black would probably look better), but then you also have a very practical way to hang the speaker. I'm an incorrigible recycler. All of the cabinets, tables, shelves, and stands in my shop were collected from refuse heaps, or neighbors planning to toss their stuff and me offering to save them time and trouble. In fact, a lot of the fixtures in my apartment are made from found objects. Over the years, I have picked up a lot of good wood, and some high end Hi-Fi gear which needed only minor repair. Call me a dung digger, but I bet my stereo is better than yours!

Yeah, black, and cut off the excess, wot? It looks mighty tacky.

--
Sound character provides the power with which a person may ride
the emergencies of life instead of being overwhelmed by them.
Failure is... the highway to success.
--Og Mandino

wrote in message
...


I lived in southern Germany in the early 1970's. You have some
first-class hobby stores there!

Not anymore!

http://www.yelp.com/search?cflt=hobb...hein-Westfalen

http://www.messen.de/de/13663/in/K%C...ogne/info.html

When I had an art fabrication shop in NY me and my co-workers found the 12in. disc sander to be one of the most useful tools. I suppose it depends on what you're doing.

Hey
You wouldn't say "me found the 12in. disc ..." etc. Ergo, don't say "me and my co-workers found..." etc.
It is "I found", or, "I and my co-workers found", or, "My co-workers and I found".

You've been watching too much television with bad scripting.

Ivan Vegvary

"robobass" wrote in message
...

JSW,

I already have the Westfalia MD150, or at least a version which I got
cheap from an Aldi type store. 2 inch wide belt. Very useful. And
still works well after 10 years regular use! I couldn't pin down your
other suggestions, but "Ferm" is a brand which was sold through the
now defunct "Max Bahr". Based on my experience with their biscuit
joiner, I would never buy anything with this mark. I think that it is
also true in the USA that the machines sold in the big box stores are
intentionally made crappy. I don't get it. Do the big retailers want
to frustrate you and force you to hire contractors? It's sort of like
restaurants. In Europe, at least, the closer you are to a major train
hub, the worse the food is. I want to ask sometimes, "would it have
cost you any more money to serve me a pizza which didn't taste like
poop?" I just don't get it...

==================

I avoided large cities if possible. The Army bases I visited to work
on comm gear were either on the edge of town or in remote areas like
Vilseck. Generally I could find a good meal in a small to medium
town's Gasthaus, or a restored castle's restaurant. I stumbled onto an
excellent pig roast in the banquet hall of a castle far off the
tourist track where an American GI like me was still a curiosity.

I had a set of the Shell road maps that showed contour lines,
buildings, ruins etc in enough detail to plot artillery fire. I bet
the Russians had them too.

The exception was when my parents came over to visit. As neither knew
German I took them to downtown places more likely to speak English.
The Chinese restaurant near the Dom in Koeln wasn't bad. I don't think
they really appreciated JaegerSchnitzel or Spaetzle as much as I did.

jsw

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...


When I had an art fabrication shop in NY me and my co-workers found
the 12in. disc sander to be one of the most useful tools. I
suppose it depends on what you're doing.

Hey
You wouldn't say "me found the 12in. disc ..." etc. Ergo, don't say
"me and my co-workers found..." etc.
It is "I found", or, "I and my co-workers found", or, "My co-workers
and I found".

You've been watching too much television with bad scripting.

Ivan Vegvary

I found that speaking another language a lot put me in the mindset of
their grammatical patterns in English, so I sounded like Pennsylvania
Dutch. I still sometimes transpose the first two digits of a number
like German, as in "four and twenty blackbirds".

Or maybe he is writing standard Brooklynese.
http://voices.yahoo.com/the-brooklyn...-11440122.html

jsw

On Thursday, January 23, 2014 2:51:23 AM UTC-8, wrote:
I figure some of you out there must have done this before!



I just got an Optimum D650 lathe (see link 1), and I'd also like to have a 12" disc sander in my shop, but in my country (Germany) they are quite expensive, even used. I'm thinking of trying to kludge one on to back of the lathe, and mount a tilting table to the back cover (see link 2). This would save space, and I'm not that busy at the moment.



The biggest problem is that the end of the spindle is not threaded, and there's not much to attach to back there. My idea is to mount the disc plate to a long rod which goes all the way through the spindle bore and is then held by the chuck. Since the spindle bore is only 26mm, I'd need to make some sort of adapter ring to make everything stable (See drawing - link 3). I feel like this should work, if a bit quixotic. Any ideas on whether or not I'm on the right track, or if there would be another way to attach the disc to the spindle? Ideas on the tilting table? I'm planning on doing everything with aluminum, since I don't have a milling machine.



Since I must regularly open the cover to change speed and feed rate, the whole business must be easy to remove. The cover is fairly beefy, so I think with some reinforcement bars I can mount a table which would work well enough.



Thanks for all constructive replies. Please no safety warnings! Also, no. I don't have to worry about voiding my warranty. The machine is twenty years old!



http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps3e4545f7.jpg



http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps9c7b821c.jpg



http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps89a0f1b9.jpg

On Friday, January 24, 2014 7:31:20 AM UTC-8, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message

...





When I had an art fabrication shop in NY me and my co-workers found

the 12in. disc sander to be one of the most useful tools. I

suppose it depends on what you're doing.



Hey

You wouldn't say "me found the 12in. disc ..." etc. Ergo, don't say

"me and my co-workers found..." etc.

It is "I found", or, "I and my co-workers found", or, "My co-workers

and I found".



You've been watching too much television with bad scripting.



Ivan Vegvary



I found that speaking another language a lot put me in the mindset of

their grammatical patterns in English, so I sounded like Pennsylvania

Dutch. I still sometimes transpose the first two digits of a number

like German, as in "four and twenty blackbirds".



Or maybe he is writing standard Brooklynese.

http://voices.yahoo.com/the-brooklyn...-11440122.html



jsw

Well, English is my third language. I have found that many foreign speakers of English are much more aware of correct grammar than natives. They think more analytically when forming sentences in their non-native tongue. Look at all the young spelling bee winners. They are almost always foreign born.

Ivan Vegvary

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...

Well, English is my third language. I have found that many foreign
speakers of English are much more aware of correct grammar than
natives. They think more analytically when forming sentences in their
non-native tongue. Look at all the young spelling bee winners. They
are almost always foreign born.

Ivan Vegvary

================
I didn't really understand English grammar until I learned the Latin,
French and German that it developed from.

I also didn't notice until recently that English has both a future
perfective and an imperfective aspect (done / doing) functionally
equivalent to the Russian po- prefix, and a verb tense that doesn't
imply past, present or future time somewhat like the Greek Aorist.
jsw

On 2014-01-24, wrote:

My first question is "can your lathe produce sufficient speed for
a sanding disc to work well?". It looks as though your maximum RPM is
2200. Normally, the speeds are significantly higher. Is that 12 inch
diameter?

Good points. The machine is 750 watts, and yes, 2200 rpm max. I can
turn a max of 14.5cm radius, so the disc could be up to 11.4 in. I have
a guy nearby with a small shop and a bigger lathe, however. The standard
disc size here is 300mm, or 11.8 in.

Hmm ... can you handle a short workpiece at a greater diameter?
Is the 14.5 cm radius based on clearing the carriage, or on just barely
clearing the ways?

It doesn't look to be a gap-bed lathe, so that is not an option
to get a bit larger diameter workpiece in there.

Second -- how are you going to keep the sanding dust from
rapidly abrading the ways of the lathe? I would put a disc sander as
far as possible away from the lathe or any other precision machine
tools. The grit from the sanding disc is *very* bad for the ways.

I agree that having the disc on the chuck side is a bad idea, but if I
mount it to the back, I don't see so much dust hitting the weighs.

Sanding dust goes *everywhere*. If you are going to be sanding,
cover the ways, carriage and tailstock with newspaper wet in oil to trap
the dust -- and do as much as you can to keep the dust from getting
inside the headstock covers, as you will abrade the threading gears as
well.

And -- another safety point brought on by your photo of the
lathe itself. *Never* leave the chuck key in the chuck -

Yeah, I have a bad habit of doing this. Thanks!

Turn back a bit behind the square end to be a press fit for a
compression spring -- two diameters -- one to allow the spring to move a
bit, and one closer to the T-handle to trap the spring. Push on a
spring which is long enough to push the key out of the socket whenever
your hand is not on it -- and make a tube to hold it the rest of the
time -- someplace easy to reach, like the front edge of the table it is
mounted on. Easy enough to bolt something onto the perforated angle
iron which is supporting the table top. Or ever thread some coat-hanger
wire through two holes to make a complete loop plus a bit before turning
into the holes.

Some chuck keys (such as my Bison 6-1/4 inch one) come with such
a spring. I've left mine in place, though some pull them off.

[ ... ]

The cover is fairly beefy, so

[ ... ]

Again -- I would not put sanding operations this close to the
precision machine surfaces.



Better to go ahead and make the disc and hub (without the

[ ... ]

At this point I would just break down and buy a sander. Now that I
think about it, by the time I add up the hours and Euros to do any of
this it seems to not pay off. I can get a lower end machine for about
$240. It's just that it would be so cool to have one sticking off of the
back of the lathe, saving a lot of space.

I've got a three-wheel benchtop bandsaw which includes a
mounting for a disc on the fastest running hub -- and that might work
well, as there is not as much precision machinery in the bandsaw. :-)

A pity that you can't find Harbor Freight there. Yes, they have
really poor quality -- but also very inexpensive. I got a little
disc/belt sander from them about a month ago. I had to pull it apart
and properly re-align it so the disc plate did not bind on the guard.
And do a little work to minimize the wobble of the disc plate. But for
less than $30.00, it was worth it.

And in their monthly flyer, they've got a 6" disc, 4" belt for
$59.99 (regular price $99.99, but I don't think *anyone* pays regular
price. :-)

Is there some importer there like Harbor Freight?

Thanks Don, I used to post as Robobass

I recognize that name. Welcome back!

when I had a shop in Brooklyn
back in the '90's. Not many of the old guard seem to still be around!

Nope. Only those who are willing to keep a really active
killfile. The political junk from trolls has been chasing off most of
the better regulars.

I've been without toys since I went overseas 12 years ago, and am now
putting together a proper shop once again.

I'm sort of putting my shop back together after a fire badly
smoked it and rusted a lot of things. Since the shop has been cleaned
out and re-drywalled it I've been setting things back up and using
something called Evapo-Rust (which is actually carried by Harbor
Freight, and does the job without containing hazardous chemicals. I've
been de-rusting BXA sized toolpost tool holders, and smaller ones for
the little Emco Compact-5/CNC lathe (Dickson style), as well as various
other small tools.

Good Luck with re-building your shop,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2014-01-24,
wrote:


And -- another safety point brought on by your photo of the
lathe itself. *Never* leave the chuck key in the chuck -

Yeah, I have a bad habit of doing this. Thanks!

Turn back a bit behind the square end to be a press fit for a
compression spring -- two diameters -- one to allow the spring to
move a
bit, and one closer to the T-handle to trap the spring. Push on a
spring which is long enough to push the key out of the socket
whenever
your hand is not on it -- and make a tube to hold it the rest of the
time -- someplace easy to reach, like the front edge of the table it
is
mounted on. Easy enough to bolt something onto the perforated angle
iron which is supporting the table top. Or ever thread some
coat-hanger
wire through two holes to make a complete loop plus a bit before
turning
into the holes.

Some chuck keys (such as my Bison 6-1/4 inch one) come with such
a spring. I've left mine in place, though some pull them off.

I hung one of these on the wall behind the lathe:
http://www.organizeit.com/wall-mount..._NOgodGlsA7 w
It holds screwdrivers, wrenches, files etc in the front, serving as a
guard rail, and toolholders on the rear step. The center of the front
row is left open for the chuck key. Below it in the mounting plank a
row of L hooks holds inside and outside calipers and old-style square
box wrenches.
jsw

On Friday, January 24, 2014 3:39:58 PM UTC+1, Jim Wilkins wrote:
wrote in message

...





I lived in southern Germany in the early 1970's. You have some

first-class hobby stores there!



Not anymore!



http://www.yelp.com/search?cflt=hobb...hein-Westfalen



http://www.messen.de/de/13663/in/K%C...ogne/info.html

I'm not saying there isn't inspired modelling going on here, just no brick and morter stores which sell anything more than premade plastic train cars and stuff.
Check this out:
http://www.miniatur-wunderland.com/

On Friday, January 24, 2014 4:01:29 PM UTC+1, Ivan Vegvary wrote:


When I had an art fabrication shop in NY me and my co-workers found the 12in. disc sander to be one of the most useful tools. I suppose it depends on what you're doing.



Hey

You wouldn't say "me found the 12in. disc ..." etc. Ergo, don't say "me and my co-workers found..." etc.

It is "I found", or, "I and my co-workers found", or, "My co-workers and I found".



You've been watching too much television with bad scripting.



Ivan Vegvary

Or not speaking Englisch regularly enough.

Just a few more things.

I'm pretty good at managing dust:
http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps68770c49.jpg
I do quite a bit of polishing work, so it's a priority.

There's no HF or McMaster here. You can however find an amazing amount of stuff on Ebay if you're willing to search hard enough. The three machines you see in the photo were quite inexpensive and have lasted ten years so far. Once you go from a little belt sander to a 12in disc sander, the options from the lower end quickly disappear, and used machinery in general is more expensive and less available than in the States. I paid almost 1600 USD for that lathe. I bet it would fetch a third of that in US.

Nice polishing setup. Shop looks a little empty though.



True, but it's nice to be able to see the floor, right? I've only been in it for a few months. I'm planning buying one of these:
http://www.cnc-step.de/en/cnc-router...ters-machines/
but other than that I want to keep it sparse.

Hmm ... can you handle a short workpiece at a greater diameter?

Is the 14.5 cm radius based on clearing the carriage, or on just barely

clearing the ways?

That's the ways. Only 8cm over the carriage. Like I said though, there is a small shop nearby which would do this for me for a reasonable price.

On Saturday, January 25, 2014 9:29:49 AM UTC-5, wrote:
I'm not saying there isn't inspired modelling going on here, just no brick and morter stores which sell anything more than premade plastic train cars and stuff.

Check this out:

http://www.miniatur-wunderland.com/

Nice. Where's Waldo?

Guy that I use for my injection molded parts does mostly model railroad scale stuff, and he has been doing a very good business with it too.

Craftsman once sold a sanding disk, with a course grit embedded on a steel plate, that you just chucked in the lathe. I still have mine, and could take a picture of it if you want me to prove it.

I made a simple wood table rest that fit on the compound, and occasionally use it to shape some mahogany, say for a pattern. Cover the ways and clean up afterwards of course, no different than if you were doing a tool post grinding operation. Occasional use with care has not harmed my lathe one bit as far as I can see. There is too much hysteria about this kind of thing IMO.

Make some dust, clean it up, have a ball.

Good luck

--
PaulS

wrote in message
...

Or not speaking Englisch regularly enough.

Has Denglisch crept into ordinary non-technical speech much?
jsw

"PCS" wrote in message
...
Occasional use with care has not harmed my lathe one bit as far as I
can see. There is too much hysteria about this kind of thing IMO.
Make some dust, clean it up, have a ball.
Good luck
--
PaulS

I haven't had trouble with dried commercial lumber but when I need a
thick piece I use firewood, which may not be dry to the center. The
chips from turning a reel lawnmower roller have darkened my lathe bed
in less than an hour.
jsw

On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 06:57:13 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

Just a few more things.

I'm pretty good at managing dust:
http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps68770c49.jpg
I do quite a bit of polishing work, so it's a priority.

There's no HF or McMaster here. You can however find an amazing amount of stuff on Ebay if you're willing to search hard enough. The three machines you see in the photo were quite inexpensive and have lasted ten years so far. Once you go from a little belt sander to a 12in disc sander, the options from the lower end quickly disappear, and used machinery in general is more expensive and less available than in the States. I paid almost 1600 USD for that lathe. I bet it would fetch a third of that in US.

I like your triple French door. Looks handy for machinery moving.

I dunno about putting the dust exhaust 6" away from the unprotected
intake vent, though.

--
Sound character provides the power with which a person may ride
the emergencies of life instead of being overwhelmed by them.
Failure is... the highway to success.
--Og Mandino

I dunno about putting the dust exhaust 6" away from the unprotected

intake vent, though.

Wasn't much choice. I just don't run them both at the same time. There is a filter in there, of course.

On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 01:13:17 -0800 (PST),
wrote:


I dunno about putting the dust exhaust 6" away from the unprotected

intake vent, though.

Wasn't much choice. I just don't run them both at the same time. There is a filter in there, of course.

Oh! I didn't think the intake was powered. It looked like a plain air
exchange tube and I couldn' see a filter element in there.

--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807

Too bad -none- of the current CONgresscritters are willing to do that. -LJ

Oh! I didn't think the intake was powered. It looked like a plain air

exchange tube and I couldn' see a filter element in there.

Yeah. There's a fan on the door at the end of each tube. The top one blows out (filter in the box) and the bottom one blows in. I stop the bottom tube at the other end with a bucket. I suppose some dust will accumulate in the bottom tube, but so far the blades on both fans are totally clean, so my filter seems to be effective.

As to dust on the ways, I'm with PCS. I've always done a lot of sanding and shaping with a scraper over the ways, and never seen any consequence. Just clean up after yourself, and not only the ways, but the lead screw too. That thing really likes to crud up when dust is around!

I recognize that name. Welcome back!

... Only those who are willing to keep a really active

killfile. The political junk from trolls has been chasing off most of

the better regulars.

Don,
Yeah, it's too bad what has happened to this forum. I started reading it in the late '90's when I had just started up a commercial art shop and knew very little about machinery (not that I'm an expert now!). RCM was incredibly valuable to me then. It was almost like having a team of veteran machinists dropping by for an hour every evening, looking over my operation, and offering tips and criticism. Now you have to really scroll to find anything remotely on topic. All good things... It's encouraging at least that this thread turned out to have been worth something. Now that I'm back in the game I'll start checking in here again.

On Saturday, January 25, 2014 7:52:39 PM UTC+1, Gunner Asch wrote:


https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422.../ShopDec282012

I could only just now get your link to work. You win! I fold! You don't have a shop. You have a machinery village! I wouldn't even hazard a guess as to what half of that stuff even is! Germany is a crowded place. I searched for a year to find this 400 sq.ft. space in Cologne. At least it's right downtown, so I don't have a commute. In Brooklyn I had a nice 1000 sq.ft. loft, but I also lived there. That location meant that customers could visit me (or me them) with a short subway trip, so keeping busy wasn't an issue, but keeping the space uncluttered enough for me and my employees to work effectively was a Sysiphean task. Based on that I'm quite gun-shy about acquiring too much stuff, or offering too wide a range of services. Still, your operation is indeed impressive!