I have wanted to experiment with Tig. I have a miller Bobcat 225+. Can I just purchase an air cooled TIG torch and a bottle of argon and connect it to my welding leads? I know I would not have voltage adjustment capability and I would have to use scratch start because of no HF. I am assuming this would work for mild steel or stainless steel.

Would there be a way to use this set up for aluminum?

stryped wrote:

I have wanted to experiment with Tig. I have a miller Bobcat 225+. Can I
just purchase an air cooled TIG torch and a bottle of argon and connect it
to my welding leads? I know I would not have voltage adjustment capability
and I would have to use scratch start because of no HF. I am assuming this
would work for mild steel or stainless steel.

Scratch start contaminates the electrode. But, it mostly will work,
but may require a lot of fussing to keep the electrodes clean enough to
weld. Mild steel should be no problem, it is very forgiving. Stainless
may be a lot tougher to get good welds.
Would there be a way to use this set up for aluminum?
Generally, you need some kind of AC for Aluminum. Without AC, the
surface of the aluminum gets an oxide layer. The best is square-wave
AC with continuous HF. I have heard of people welding Al with DC,
but I find it tough enough even with the best equipment (Lincoln
Square-Wave TIG 300).

Jon

you can buy a high frequency attachment. I sold a bunch of them in the
past. They will work.

i

On 2014-01-07, Jon Elson wrote:
stryped wrote:

I have wanted to experiment with Tig. I have a miller Bobcat 225+. Can I
just purchase an air cooled TIG torch and a bottle of argon and connect it
to my welding leads? I know I would not have voltage adjustment capability
and I would have to use scratch start because of no HF. I am assuming this
would work for mild steel or stainless steel.

Scratch start contaminates the electrode. But, it mostly will work,
but may require a lot of fussing to keep the electrodes clean enough to
weld. Mild steel should be no problem, it is very forgiving. Stainless
may be a lot tougher to get good welds.
Would there be a way to use this set up for aluminum?
Generally, you need some kind of AC for Aluminum. Without AC, the
surface of the aluminum gets an oxide layer. The best is square-wave
AC with continuous HF. I have heard of people welding Al with DC,
but I find it tough enough even with the best equipment (Lincoln
Square-Wave TIG 300).

Jon

On Tuesday, January 7, 2014 7:22:42 PM UTC-6, Ignoramus31914 wrote:
you can buy a high frequency attachment. I sold a bunch of them in the

past. They will work.



i



On 2014-01-07, Jon Elson wrote:

stryped wrote:



I have wanted to experiment with Tig. I have a miller Bobcat 225+. Can I

just purchase an air cooled TIG torch and a bottle of argon and connect it

to my welding leads? I know I would not have voltage adjustment capability

and I would have to use scratch start because of no HF. I am assuming this

would work for mild steel or stainless steel.



Scratch start contaminates the electrode. But, it mostly will work,

but may require a lot of fussing to keep the electrodes clean enough to

weld. Mild steel should be no problem, it is very forgiving. Stainless

may be a lot tougher to get good welds.

Would there be a way to use this set up for aluminum?

Generally, you need some kind of AC for Aluminum. Without AC, the

surface of the aluminum gets an oxide layer. The best is square-wave

AC with continuous HF. I have heard of people welding Al with DC,

but I find it tough enough even with the best equipment (Lincoln

Square-Wave TIG 300).



Jon

How much are they?

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jan 2014 12:42:36 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 7, 2014 7:22:42 PM UTC-6, Ignoramus31914 wrote:
you can buy a high frequency attachment. I sold a bunch of them in
the

past. They will work.

How much are they?

I recently brokered one for $2100. Absolutely mint



Gunner , I think he was inquiring about the price of one of Iggy's HF
units .
--
Snag



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"Ignoramus31914" wrote in message
...
you can buy a high frequency attachment. I sold a bunch of them in the
past. They will work.

i

On 2014-01-07, Jon Elson wrote:
stryped wrote:

I have wanted to experiment with Tig. I have a miller Bobcat 225+. Can I
just purchase an air cooled TIG torch and a bottle of argon and connect
it
to my welding leads? I know I would not have voltage adjustment
capability
and I would have to use scratch start because of no HF. I am assuming
this
would work for mild steel or stainless steel.

Scratch start contaminates the electrode. But, it mostly will work,
but may require a lot of fussing to keep the electrodes clean enough to
weld. Mild steel should be no problem, it is very forgiving. Stainless
may be a lot tougher to get good welds.
Would there be a way to use this set up for aluminum?
Generally, you need some kind of AC for Aluminum. Without AC, the
surface of the aluminum gets an oxide layer. The best is square-wave
AC with continuous HF. I have heard of people welding Al with DC,
but I find it tough enough even with the best equipment (Lincoln
Square-Wave TIG 300).

Jon

I do basic aluminum welding with my Miller 212 all the time. In fact its
set up with dual guns and dual tanks so all I have to do is swap guns and
adjust the settings for most things. I just welded up a mounting bracket a
few minutes ago out of 1/8" 5052 sheet. Its not super pretty, but it won't
break.

http://cncmolds.com/images/5052.jpg

I'm pretty sure its just a basic DC MIG. Mine is the manual version. Not
the auto-set.








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"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 8 Jan 2014 19:15:01 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Ignoramus31914" wrote in message
...
you can buy a high frequency attachment. I sold a bunch of them in the
past. They will work.

i

On 2014-01-07, Jon Elson wrote:
stryped wrote:

I have wanted to experiment with Tig. I have a miller Bobcat 225+. Can
I
just purchase an air cooled TIG torch and a bottle of argon and
connect
it
to my welding leads? I know I would not have voltage adjustment
capability
and I would have to use scratch start because of no HF. I am assuming
this
would work for mild steel or stainless steel.

Scratch start contaminates the electrode. But, it mostly will work,
but may require a lot of fussing to keep the electrodes clean enough to
weld. Mild steel should be no problem, it is very forgiving.
Stainless
may be a lot tougher to get good welds.
Would there be a way to use this set up for aluminum?
Generally, you need some kind of AC for Aluminum. Without AC, the
surface of the aluminum gets an oxide layer. The best is square-wave
AC with continuous HF. I have heard of people welding Al with DC,
but I find it tough enough even with the best equipment (Lincoln
Square-Wave TIG 300).

Jon

I do basic aluminum welding with my Miller 212 all the time. In fact its
set up with dual guns and dual tanks so all I have to do is swap guns and
adjust the settings for most things. I just welded up a mounting bracket
a
few minutes ago out of 1/8" 5052 sheet. Its not super pretty, but it
won't
break.

http://cncmolds.com/images/5052.jpg

I'm pretty sure its just a basic DC MIG. Mine is the manual version. Not
the auto-set.

Decent weld once its cleaned up.


Cleaned up? Blink! Blink!

LOL.




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On Tuesday, January 7, 2014 8:23:39 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have wanted to experiment with Tig. I have a miller Bobcat 225+. Can I just purchase an air cooled TIG torch and a bottle of argon and connect it to my welding leads? I know I would not have voltage adjustment capability and I would have to use scratch start because of no HF. I am assuming this would work for mild steel or stainless steel.



Would there be a way to use this set up for aluminum?

On Tuesday, January 7, 2014 4:09:37 PM UTC-5, Jon Elson wrote:
stryped wrote:



I have wanted to experiment with Tig. I have a miller Bobcat 225+. Can I

just purchase an air cooled TIG torch and a bottle of argon and connect it

to my welding leads? I know I would not have voltage adjustment capability

and I would have to use scratch start because of no HF. I am assuming this

would work for mild steel or stainless steel.



Scratch start contaminates the electrode. But, it mostly will work,

but may require a lot of fussing to keep the electrodes clean enough to

weld. Mild steel should be no problem, it is very forgiving. Stainless

may be a lot tougher to get good welds.

Would there be a way to use this set up for aluminum?

Generally, you need some kind of AC for Aluminum. Without AC, the

surface of the aluminum gets an oxide layer. The best is square-wave

AC with continuous HF. I have heard of people welding Al with DC,

but I find it tough enough even with the best equipment (Lincoln

Square-Wave TIG 300).



Jon

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 8 Jan 2014 20:34:12 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
. ..
On Wed, 8 Jan 2014 19:15:01 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Ignoramus31914" wrote in message
...
you can buy a high frequency attachment. I sold a bunch of them in the
past. They will work.

i

On 2014-01-07, Jon Elson wrote:
stryped wrote:

I have wanted to experiment with Tig. I have a miller Bobcat 225+.
Can
I
just purchase an air cooled TIG torch and a bottle of argon and
connect
it
to my welding leads? I know I would not have voltage adjustment
capability
and I would have to use scratch start because of no HF. I am
assuming
this
would work for mild steel or stainless steel.

Scratch start contaminates the electrode. But, it mostly will work,
but may require a lot of fussing to keep the electrodes clean enough
to
weld. Mild steel should be no problem, it is very forgiving.
Stainless
may be a lot tougher to get good welds.
Would there be a way to use this set up for aluminum?
Generally, you need some kind of AC for Aluminum. Without AC, the
surface of the aluminum gets an oxide layer. The best is square-wave
AC with continuous HF. I have heard of people welding Al with DC,
but I find it tough enough even with the best equipment (Lincoln
Square-Wave TIG 300).

Jon

I do basic aluminum welding with my Miller 212 all the time. In fact
its
set up with dual guns and dual tanks so all I have to do is swap guns
and
adjust the settings for most things. I just welded up a mounting
bracket
a
few minutes ago out of 1/8" 5052 sheet. Its not super pretty, but it
won't
break.

http://cncmolds.com/images/5052.jpg

I'm pretty sure its just a basic DC MIG. Mine is the manual version.
Not
the auto-set.

Decent weld once its cleaned up.


Cleaned up? Blink! Blink!

LOL.

What..you dont ever use a fine wire wheel on your work to polish it
up any?

Makes paint stick better too.

Gunner


But?! But?! But?! That would carbon contaminate my stainless steel brushes.
Then how could I weld aluminum properly ever again. LOL.

Nah! For that part a cloth dampened with a mild cleaner will do a better
job of removing the soot than a brush. Also, if I brushed it I would have
to brush and buff the entire part so the brushed area wouldn't stand out.




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"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 9 Jan 2014 12:07:43 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
. ..
On Wed, 8 Jan 2014 20:34:12 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
m...
On Wed, 8 Jan 2014 19:15:01 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Ignoramus31914" wrote in
message
...
you can buy a high frequency attachment. I sold a bunch of them in
the
past. They will work.

i

On 2014-01-07, Jon Elson wrote:
stryped wrote:

I have wanted to experiment with Tig. I have a miller Bobcat 225+.
Can
I
just purchase an air cooled TIG torch and a bottle of argon and
connect
it
to my welding leads? I know I would not have voltage adjustment
capability
and I would have to use scratch start because of no HF. I am
assuming
this
would work for mild steel or stainless steel.

Scratch start contaminates the electrode. But, it mostly will
work,
but may require a lot of fussing to keep the electrodes clean
enough
to
weld. Mild steel should be no problem, it is very forgiving.
Stainless
may be a lot tougher to get good welds.
Would there be a way to use this set up for aluminum?
Generally, you need some kind of AC for Aluminum. Without AC, the
surface of the aluminum gets an oxide layer. The best is
square-wave
AC with continuous HF. I have heard of people welding Al with DC,
but I find it tough enough even with the best equipment (Lincoln
Square-Wave TIG 300).

Jon

I do basic aluminum welding with my Miller 212 all the time. In fact
its
set up with dual guns and dual tanks so all I have to do is swap guns
and
adjust the settings for most things. I just welded up a mounting
bracket
a
few minutes ago out of 1/8" 5052 sheet. Its not super pretty, but it
won't
break.

http://cncmolds.com/images/5052.jpg

I'm pretty sure its just a basic DC MIG. Mine is the manual version.
Not
the auto-set.

Decent weld once its cleaned up.


Cleaned up? Blink! Blink!

LOL.

What..you dont ever use a fine wire wheel on your work to polish it
up any?

Makes paint stick better too.

Gunner


But?! But?! But?! That would carbon contaminate my stainless steel
brushes.
Then how could I weld aluminum properly ever again. LOL.

LOL!!

Nah! For that part a cloth dampened with a mild cleaner will do a better
job of removing the soot than a brush. Also, if I brushed it I would have
to brush and buff the entire part so the brushed area wouldn't stand out.

So scotchbright it and paint over everything.

(Grin)


Now, that's just mean.


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