Hi to all, one question......., I have a JCB 3cx, I ran out of patience
with constant erratic running realized that I must have had loads of dirt
in the main tank..... I guess because of its age etc, also only used in
the summer, I had a hole cut into the tank and spooned out all the gunge
and sediment, Managed to scrape and get the inside of the tank quite clean
and dry, Started reassembly as one does, New inline filter, to stop any
more clogging, Cleaned the lift pump, new main filter, also nearly forgot
about the filter on the front of the pump itself (cav , lucas- Delphi )

All was clean and tight but the fuel through the injectors whilst bleeding
was weak, until I remembered that the stop on the top of the pump may have
stuck, a few taps and off she went, Nearly killed the battery before I
remembered this !!! BUT my question to anyone who is online..... will the
stop in the top of the pump eventually clear itself free OR can I disturb
the top of the pump and clean the stop valve/plunger myself????? So
simple a system and great 4236 engine but unless everything is correct
they can be trouble some to fire up.

Look forward to hearing from someone. Sam

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On Mon, 24 Jun 2013 18:18:02 +0000, sam
wrote:

Hi to all, one question......., I have a JCB 3cx, I ran out of patience
with constant erratic running realized that I must have had loads of dirt
in the main tank..... I guess because of its age etc, also only used in
the summer, I had a hole cut into the tank and spooned out all the gunge
and sediment, Managed to scrape and get the inside of the tank quite clean
and dry, Started reassembly as one does, New inline filter, to stop any
more clogging, Cleaned the lift pump, new main filter, also nearly forgot
about the filter on the front of the pump itself (cav , lucas- Delphi )

Now you need to remember to run Bio-Bor additives in the Diesel,
and/or drain and flush the fuel tank at the end of the season.

You either store it with the tank full to the brim (so moisture
doesn't condense and/or air gets in to oxidize the fuel) or bone dry,
and run the fuel through something else to use it up.

And having a fuel filter before the first suction pump is a good thing
- Because when the engine is at idle the excess fuel circulates back
through the relief valve, and return line to the tank, and the primary
filter will scrub out the worst of the gunk over time. If yours isn't
set up like that, you might think about changing it.

You can also make a portable tank cleaner with a diesel fuel filter,
small electric high-flow fuel pump, and some hose. Vacuum the gunk
out of the bottom corners of the tank by manipulating the hose end, as
you pump it out and into a separate tank. Then pump it back to the
tractor tank and filter it all again.

All was clean and tight but the fuel through the injectors whilst bleeding
was weak, until I remembered that the stop on the top of the pump may have
stuck, a few taps and off she went, Nearly killed the battery before I
remembered this !!! BUT my question to anyone who is online..... will the
stop in the top of the pump eventually clear itself free OR can I disturb
the top of the pump and clean the stop valve/plunger myself????? So
simple a system and great 4236 engine but unless everything is correct
they can be trouble some to fire up.

Look forward to hearing from someone. Sam

My total guess answer (IE take it for what it's worth) is... There's
a lot of stuff that's marked "No User-Serviceable Parts Inside" just
to dodge the liability.

If you have a good idea of what you are doing and use some care, you
can. That means having the right tools and parts, with proper $25
Snap-On or Lisle substitutions for the $500 "Manufacturer Special"
tools.

Get hold of the service manuals from JCB and whoever made the injector
pump (Lucas?) and see what they say. If this is the shutdown solenoid
connected to the ignition, it should come apart without a whole lot of
drama, but the book will tell you this.

And the service manual will give you the part numbers for the rebuild
gasket kit and the valve internals, which you'll want to replace as
you pop it open and scrub it out.

It will also point out which screws NOT to mess with - like the ones
that adjust the fuel output pressures. Unless you want to go get the
special pressure gauges (or build your own...) and rebalance
everything when you are done.

And even if it's mute, the exploded diagram will show how it comes
apart and goes back together. And where that little check-valve ball
and spring that falls out is supposed to go back when you button it up
- Leftover Parts are a Bad Thing...