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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On 4/23/2013 9:12 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:41:46 -0500, wrote: On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? http://marauder.homestead.com/files/Marlin94P.html #8 Carrier Assembly On this one, if it fails, it doesn't look like there is much chance of a major catastrophe. The weapon may become inoperable, but shouldn't explode, or set off a round by accident. But that's just from looking at the parts drawing. With that caveat, the owner decides.... Personally, I'd order a new one. |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On 4/24/2013 12:48 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:41:46 -0500, wrote: On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? Better link http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/mar1894.gif Part #8, 9, and 10 (and 11) He was missing the #10 pin..and I turned, annealed, replaced it and peened it into place gently. Gunner Why do I get the impression that the rifle has been overstressed? Repeatedly. |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was
missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:41:46 -0500, Richard wrote: On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? Get an expert involved. High-strength ferrous sintered parts often are copper-infiltrated. Don't weld that stuff unless you know what you're doing, especially if it's a safety-related part. -- Ed Huntress |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:41:46 -0500, Richard
wrote: On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? http://marauder.homestead.com/files/Marlin94P.html #8 Carrier Assembly |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:41:46 -0500, Richard
wrote: On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? Better link http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/mar1894.gif Part #8, 9, and 10 (and 11) He was missing the #10 pin..and I turned, annealed, replaced it and peened it into place gently. Gunner |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 10:14:55 -0500, Richard
wrote: On 4/23/2013 9:12 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:41:46 -0500, wrote: On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? http://marauder.homestead.com/files/Marlin94P.html #8 Carrier Assembly On this one, if it fails, it doesn't look like there is much chance of a major catastrophe. The weapon may become inoperable, but shouldn't explode, or set off a round by accident. But that's just from looking at the parts drawing. With that caveat, the owner decides.... Personally, I'd order a new one. Oh..its not..not a safety critical piece. Not in the slightest. Which is why I silver soldered it..and then asked here. I notice that Midway sells a later version of it for $50 or so. So Ill warn the end user, but had been courious about the idea of soldering sintered metal. Gunner |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 12:57:20 -0500, Richard
wrote: On 4/24/2013 12:48 AM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:41:46 -0500, wrote: On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? Better link http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/mar1894.gif Part #8, 9, and 10 (and 11) He was missing the #10 pin..and I turned, annealed, replaced it and peened it into place gently. Gunner Why do I get the impression that the rifle has been overstressed? Repeatedly. Its a lever action 357 Mag...I dought it could be overstressed very much. Sintered metal parts...dont have a sterling track record.....in some cases. Particularly those that take "impact"/high loading They work well enough for static loads...the Buck folder in my pocket..the brass frame..is powdered metal sintering..but it never has a sudden high stress loading. A lot of motorcycle brake disks are sintered. But they dont get hit. Gunner |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Apr 23, 12:57*pm, Richard wrote:
On 4/24/2013 12:48 AM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:41:46 -0500, wrote: On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. * I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? Better link http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/mar1894.gif Part #8, 9, and 10 (and 11) He was missing the #10 pin..and I turned, annealed, *replaced it and peened it into place gently. Gunner Why do I get the impression that the rifle has been overstressed? Repeatedly. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fatigue Sintered metal parts start out with a bazillion "cracks" (voids) when they go into the furnace (or hot isostatic press) and hopefully come out with none. Everything is controlled (temperature, pressure, atmosphere) to get near net shape and avoid having to machine the part. Not to say that it can't be repaired, but I'd rather go to the dentist. |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:28:47 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G."
wrote: On Apr 23, 12:57*pm, Richard wrote: On 4/24/2013 12:48 AM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:41:46 -0500, wrote: On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. * I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? Better link http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/mar1894.gif Part #8, 9, and 10 (and 11) He was missing the #10 pin..and I turned, annealed, *replaced it and peened it into place gently. Gunner Why do I get the impression that the rifle has been overstressed? Repeatedly. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fatigue Sintered metal parts start out with a bazillion "cracks" (voids) when they go into the furnace (or hot isostatic press) and hopefully come out with none. Everything is controlled (temperature, pressure, atmosphere) to get near net shape and avoid having to machine the part. Not to say that it can't be repaired, but I'd rather go to the dentist. Dollars to donuts, though, they ain't HIPping those gun parts. At most, they're post-pressed and copper-infiltrated. This part, though, looks like it wouldn't be practical to post-press. And it's probably not infiltrated. -- Ed Huntress |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Apr 24, 9:34*am, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:28:47 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G." wrote: On Apr 23, 12:57*pm, Richard wrote: On 4/24/2013 12:48 AM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:41:46 -0500, wrote: On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. * I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? Better link http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/mar1894.gif Part #8, 9, and 10 (and 11) He was missing the #10 pin..and I turned, annealed, *replaced it and peened it into place gently. Gunner Why do I get the impression that the rifle has been overstressed? Repeatedly. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fatigue Sintered metal parts start out with a bazillion "cracks" (voids) when they go into the furnace (or hot isostatic press) and hopefully come out with none. *Everything is controlled (temperature, pressure, atmosphere) to get near net shape and avoid having to machine the part. *Not to say that it can't be repaired, but I'd rather go to the dentist. Dollars to donuts, though, they ain't HIPping those gun parts. At most, they're post-pressed and copper-infiltrated. This part, though, looks like it wouldn't be practical to post-press. And it's probably not infiltrated. -- Ed Huntress I was guessing that it was HIPped with the holes and final features drilled and machined. (Certainly you can't pull apart the mold with those sideways holes. The HIPped parts I've seen have copper powder mixed in and with 30-50 ksi pressing you get pretty good part strength and compaction and it's more state-of-the-art. On the other hand, my experience is more with R&D and I don't know how much throughput you'd get from HIPping vs. more conventional belt- driven open air sintering furnaces, so maybe you're right. |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 08:31:23 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G."
wrote: On Apr 24, 9:34*am, Ed Huntress wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:28:47 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G." wrote: On Apr 23, 12:57*pm, Richard wrote: On 4/24/2013 12:48 AM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:41:46 -0500, wrote: On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. * I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? Better link http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/mar1894.gif Part #8, 9, and 10 (and 11) He was missing the #10 pin..and I turned, annealed, *replaced it and peened it into place gently. Gunner Why do I get the impression that the rifle has been overstressed? Repeatedly. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fatigue Sintered metal parts start out with a bazillion "cracks" (voids) when they go into the furnace (or hot isostatic press) and hopefully come out with none. *Everything is controlled (temperature, pressure, atmosphere) to get near net shape and avoid having to machine the part. *Not to say that it can't be repaired, but I'd rather go to the dentist. Dollars to donuts, though, they ain't HIPping those gun parts. At most, they're post-pressed and copper-infiltrated. This part, though, looks like it wouldn't be practical to post-press. And it's probably not infiltrated. -- Ed Huntress I was guessing that it was HIPped with the holes and final features drilled and machined. (Certainly you can't pull apart the mold with those sideways holes. The HIPped parts I've seen have copper powder mixed in and with 30-50 ksi pressing you get pretty good part strength and compaction and it's more state-of-the-art. On the other hand, my experience is more with R&D and I don't know how much throughput you'd get from HIPping vs. more conventional belt- driven open air sintering furnaces, so maybe you're right. Unless there's some advance in HIPping since I was covering PM, it's done in strippable metal cans -- one for each part. That drives costs 'way up. It's used mostly in aerospace, or it was. HIPping of cast parts doesn't require cans, but PM does, or it did. Ferrous parts that require some toughness and a bit of ductility often are pressed, sintered, possibly hot post-pressed, and then infiltrated, usually with copper. As an example, that's how they make the bevel driven gears on DeWalt angle-head grinders. It's not cheap compared to plain press-and-sinter, but it's a heck of a lot cheapter than HIP. You get 100% density with infiltration, as you can with HIP. -- Ed Huntress |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Apr 24, 10:47*am, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 08:31:23 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G." wrote: On Apr 24, 9:34 am, Ed Huntress wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:28:47 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G." wrote: On Apr 23, 12:57 pm, Richard wrote: On 4/24/2013 12:48 AM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:41:46 -0500, wrote: On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? Better link http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/mar1894.gif Part #8, 9, and 10 (and 11) He was missing the #10 pin..and I turned, annealed, replaced it and peened it into place gently. Gunner Why do I get the impression that the rifle has been overstressed? Repeatedly. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fatigue Sintered metal parts start out with a bazillion "cracks" (voids) when they go into the furnace (or hot isostatic press) and hopefully come out with none. Everything is controlled (temperature, pressure, atmosphere) to get near net shape and avoid having to machine the part. Not to say that it can't be repaired, but I'd rather go to the dentist. Dollars to donuts, though, they ain't HIPping those gun parts. At most, they're post-pressed and copper-infiltrated. This part, though, looks like it wouldn't be practical to post-press. And it's probably not infiltrated. -- Ed Huntress I was guessing that it was HIPped with the holes and final features drilled and machined. *(Certainly you can't pull apart the mold with those sideways holes. *The HIPped parts I've seen have copper powder mixed in and with 30-50 ksi pressing you get pretty good part strength and compaction and it's more state-of-the-art. On the other hand, my experience is more with R&D and I don't know how much throughput you'd get from HIPping vs. more conventional belt- driven open air sintering furnaces, so maybe you're right. Unless there's some advance in HIPping since I was covering PM, it's done in strippable metal cans -- one for each part. That drives costs 'way up. It's used mostly in aerospace, or it was. HIPping of cast parts doesn't require cans, but PM does, or it did. Ferrous parts that require some toughness and a bit of ductility often are pressed, sintered, possibly hot post-pressed, and then infiltrated, usually with copper. As an example, that's how they make the bevel driven gears on DeWalt angle-head grinders. It's not cheap compared to plain press-and-sinter, but it's a heck of a lot cheapter than HIP. You get 100% density with infiltration, as you can with HIP. -- Ed Huntress You're right about the cans. They're crushed and disposable and the HIPped material had to undergo final machining. It is more expensive. I've been away from that business for a while and don't remember everything. I pulled out one of my PM books and saw the process that you describe. The PM that I'm familiar with had the all powders premixed before pressing. |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 11:47:14 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 08:31:23 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G." wrote: On Apr 24, 9:34*am, Ed Huntress wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:28:47 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G." wrote: On Apr 23, 12:57*pm, Richard wrote: On 4/24/2013 12:48 AM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:41:46 -0500, wrote: On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. * I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? Better link http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/mar1894.gif Part #8, 9, and 10 (and 11) He was missing the #10 pin..and I turned, annealed, *replaced it and peened it into place gently. Gunner Why do I get the impression that the rifle has been overstressed? Repeatedly. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fatigue Sintered metal parts start out with a bazillion "cracks" (voids) when they go into the furnace (or hot isostatic press) and hopefully come out with none. *Everything is controlled (temperature, pressure, atmosphere) to get near net shape and avoid having to machine the part. *Not to say that it can't be repaired, but I'd rather go to the dentist. Dollars to donuts, though, they ain't HIPping those gun parts. At most, they're post-pressed and copper-infiltrated. This part, though, looks like it wouldn't be practical to post-press. And it's probably not infiltrated. -- Ed Huntress I was guessing that it was HIPped with the holes and final features drilled and machined. (Certainly you can't pull apart the mold with those sideways holes. The HIPped parts I've seen have copper powder mixed in and with 30-50 ksi pressing you get pretty good part strength and compaction and it's more state-of-the-art. On the other hand, my experience is more with R&D and I don't know how much throughput you'd get from HIPping vs. more conventional belt- driven open air sintering furnaces, so maybe you're right. Unless there's some advance in HIPping since I was covering PM, it's done in strippable metal cans -- one for each part. That drives costs 'way up. It's used mostly in aerospace, or it was. HIPping of cast parts doesn't require cans, but PM does, or it did. Ferrous parts that require some toughness and a bit of ductility often are pressed, sintered, possibly hot post-pressed, and then infiltrated, usually with copper. I mispoke there. They're EITHER post-pressed or infiltrated. I never heard of doing both on the same part. Either one can get you to 100% density, but infiltration usually results in more impact resistance and ductility, but with slightly less tensile strength. As an example, that's how they make the bevel driven gears on DeWalt angle-head grinders. It's not cheap compared to plain press-and-sinter, but it's a heck of a lot cheapter than HIP. You get 100% density with infiltration, as you can with HIP. |
#16
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 09:06:13 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G."
wrote: On Apr 24, 10:47*am, Ed Huntress wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 08:31:23 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G." wrote: On Apr 24, 9:34 am, Ed Huntress wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:28:47 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G." wrote: On Apr 23, 12:57 pm, Richard wrote: On 4/24/2013 12:48 AM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:41:46 -0500, wrote: On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? Better link http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/mar1894.gif Part #8, 9, and 10 (and 11) He was missing the #10 pin..and I turned, annealed, replaced it and peened it into place gently. Gunner Why do I get the impression that the rifle has been overstressed? Repeatedly. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fatigue Sintered metal parts start out with a bazillion "cracks" (voids) when they go into the furnace (or hot isostatic press) and hopefully come out with none. Everything is controlled (temperature, pressure, atmosphere) to get near net shape and avoid having to machine the part. Not to say that it can't be repaired, but I'd rather go to the dentist. Dollars to donuts, though, they ain't HIPping those gun parts. At most, they're post-pressed and copper-infiltrated. This part, though, looks like it wouldn't be practical to post-press. And it's probably not infiltrated. -- Ed Huntress I was guessing that it was HIPped with the holes and final features drilled and machined. *(Certainly you can't pull apart the mold with those sideways holes. *The HIPped parts I've seen have copper powder mixed in and with 30-50 ksi pressing you get pretty good part strength and compaction and it's more state-of-the-art. On the other hand, my experience is more with R&D and I don't know how much throughput you'd get from HIPping vs. more conventional belt- driven open air sintering furnaces, so maybe you're right. Unless there's some advance in HIPping since I was covering PM, it's done in strippable metal cans -- one for each part. That drives costs 'way up. It's used mostly in aerospace, or it was. HIPping of cast parts doesn't require cans, but PM does, or it did. Ferrous parts that require some toughness and a bit of ductility often are pressed, sintered, possibly hot post-pressed, and then infiltrated, usually with copper. As an example, that's how they make the bevel driven gears on DeWalt angle-head grinders. It's not cheap compared to plain press-and-sinter, but it's a heck of a lot cheapter than HIP. You get 100% density with infiltration, as you can with HIP. -- Ed Huntress You're right about the cans. They're crushed and disposable and the HIPped material had to undergo final machining. It is more expensive. I've been away from that business for a while and don't remember everything. I pulled out one of my PM books and saw the process that you describe. The PM that I'm familiar with had the all powders premixed before pressing. What you're describing is by far the most common way it's done. PM can be fascinating. By mixing powders and sintering at full diffusion temperatures, you can produce alloys that are not possible any other way. For example, the most exotic of the high-speed-steels: Crucible CPM REX 121. You can't make it by melting. That stuff is HIPped, BTW. Regarding memory, I can empathize with that. d8-) -- Ed Huntress |
#17
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Apr 24, 11:17*am, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 09:06:13 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G." wrote: On Apr 24, 10:47*am, Ed Huntress wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 08:31:23 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G." wrote: On Apr 24, 9:34 am, Ed Huntress wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:28:47 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G." wrote: On Apr 23, 12:57 pm, Richard wrote: On 4/24/2013 12:48 AM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:41:46 -0500, wrote: On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? Better link http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/mar1894.gif Part #8, 9, and 10 (and 11) He was missing the #10 pin..and I turned, annealed, replaced it and peened it into place gently. Gunner Why do I get the impression that the rifle has been overstressed? Repeatedly. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fatigue Sintered metal parts start out with a bazillion "cracks" (voids) when they go into the furnace (or hot isostatic press) and hopefully come out with none. Everything is controlled (temperature, pressure, atmosphere) to get near net shape and avoid having to machine the part. Not to say that it can't be repaired, but I'd rather go to the dentist. Dollars to donuts, though, they ain't HIPping those gun parts. At most, they're post-pressed and copper-infiltrated. This part, though, looks like it wouldn't be practical to post-press. And it's probably not infiltrated. -- Ed Huntress I was guessing that it was HIPped with the holes and final features drilled and machined. *(Certainly you can't pull apart the mold with those sideways holes. *The HIPped parts I've seen have copper powder mixed in and with 30-50 ksi pressing you get pretty good part strength and compaction and it's more state-of-the-art. On the other hand, my experience is more with R&D and I don't know how much throughput you'd get from HIPping vs. more conventional belt- driven open air sintering furnaces, so maybe you're right. Unless there's some advance in HIPping since I was covering PM, it's done in strippable metal cans -- one for each part. That drives costs 'way up. It's used mostly in aerospace, or it was. HIPping of cast parts doesn't require cans, but PM does, or it did. Ferrous parts that require some toughness and a bit of ductility often are pressed, sintered, possibly hot post-pressed, and then infiltrated, usually with copper. As an example, that's how they make the bevel driven gears on DeWalt angle-head grinders. It's not cheap compared to plain press-and-sinter, but it's a heck of a lot cheapter than HIP. You get 100% density with infiltration, as you can with HIP. -- Ed Huntress You're right about the cans. They're crushed and disposable and the HIPped material had to undergo final machining. It is more expensive. * I've been away from that business for a while and don't remember everything. *I pulled out one of my PM books and saw the process that you describe. *The PM that I'm familiar with had the all powders premixed before pressing. What you're describing is by far the most common way it's done. PM can be fascinating. By mixing powders and sintering at full diffusion temperatures, you can produce alloys that are not possible any other way. For example, the most exotic of the high-speed-steels: Crucible CPM REX 121. You can't make it by melting. That stuff is HIPped, BTW. Regarding memory, I can empathize with that. d8-) -- Ed Huntress PM is a neat subject. Although it get a lot of bad press for cheap parts, I wonder how many people would sleep at night knowing that most jet turbine blades are made with it. |
#18
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
What you're describing is by far the most common way it's done. PM can be fascinating. By mixing powders and sintering at full diffusion temperatures, you can produce alloys that are not possible any other way. For example, the most exotic of the high-speed-steels: Crucible CPM REX 121. You can't make it by melting. That stuff is HIPped, BTW. Regarding memory, I can empathize with that. d8-) I have a book called "The Component Contribution Engine Progress Through the Specialist Manufacturers" by Alan Baker ISBN 0 09 136290 3 and it mentions the use of what they call powder forging being used by GKN to produce conrods for the Porsche 928. The book dates from 1979 and the 928 1978 so looks like some high performance applications have been around for a while. I presume this would be an application of what you're referring to as HIPed. IIRC the hot initially powder form is placed in dies and struck to produce a 100% part with high dimensional and weight accuracy compared to standard forging processes. BTW the book is a fascinating read if you haven't read it already and it looks like it's available cheaply on Amazon. Maybe a little dated in the last 34 years but still a good read. |
#19
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 09:46:33 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G."
wrote: On Apr 24, 11:17*am, Ed Huntress wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 09:06:13 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G." wrote: On Apr 24, 10:47*am, Ed Huntress wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 08:31:23 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G." wrote: On Apr 24, 9:34 am, Ed Huntress wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:28:47 -0700 (PDT), "Denis G." wrote: On Apr 23, 12:57 pm, Richard wrote: On 4/24/2013 12:48 AM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:41:46 -0500, wrote: On 4/23/2013 7:57 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: Fella brought over a gun part for a Marlin lever action..he was missing a pin..so I made one up for him and installed it..and as I was inspecting it..I noticed a rather serious crack starting to develop at one end of the sintered metal part. I fixed it by using my tig torch and silver bearing flux..I packed the crack full of the heavy green flux and zapped it with the tig..sealed it up well enough and I put a slight layer over the area of the crack. After polishing it up with a fine wire wheel, it looked good. But...is it? How well does this sort of thing work with sintered metal parts? Should I warn the guy to buy a new Widget? (Marlin just closed their doors...so parts may become hard to find) Any suggestions for other similar fixs with sintered metal parts? Gunner Which part? Better link http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/mar1894.gif Part #8, 9, and 10 (and 11) He was missing the #10 pin..and I turned, annealed, replaced it and peened it into place gently. Gunner Why do I get the impression that the rifle has been overstressed? Repeatedly. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fatigue Sintered metal parts start out with a bazillion "cracks" (voids) when they go into the furnace (or hot isostatic press) and hopefully come out with none. Everything is controlled (temperature, pressure, atmosphere) to get near net shape and avoid having to machine the part. Not to say that it can't be repaired, but I'd rather go to the dentist. Dollars to donuts, though, they ain't HIPping those gun parts. At most, they're post-pressed and copper-infiltrated. This part, though, looks like it wouldn't be practical to post-press. And it's probably not infiltrated. -- Ed Huntress I was guessing that it was HIPped with the holes and final features drilled and machined. *(Certainly you can't pull apart the mold with those sideways holes. *The HIPped parts I've seen have copper powder mixed in and with 30-50 ksi pressing you get pretty good part strength and compaction and it's more state-of-the-art. On the other hand, my experience is more with R&D and I don't know how much throughput you'd get from HIPping vs. more conventional belt- driven open air sintering furnaces, so maybe you're right. Unless there's some advance in HIPping since I was covering PM, it's done in strippable metal cans -- one for each part. That drives costs 'way up. It's used mostly in aerospace, or it was. HIPping of cast parts doesn't require cans, but PM does, or it did. Ferrous parts that require some toughness and a bit of ductility often are pressed, sintered, possibly hot post-pressed, and then infiltrated, usually with copper. As an example, that's how they make the bevel driven gears on DeWalt angle-head grinders. It's not cheap compared to plain press-and-sinter, but it's a heck of a lot cheapter than HIP. You get 100% density with infiltration, as you can with HIP. -- Ed Huntress You're right about the cans. They're crushed and disposable and the HIPped material had to undergo final machining. It is more expensive. * I've been away from that business for a while and don't remember everything. *I pulled out one of my PM books and saw the process that you describe. *The PM that I'm familiar with had the all powders premixed before pressing. What you're describing is by far the most common way it's done. PM can be fascinating. By mixing powders and sintering at full diffusion temperatures, you can produce alloys that are not possible any other way. For example, the most exotic of the high-speed-steels: Crucible CPM REX 121. You can't make it by melting. That stuff is HIPped, BTW. Regarding memory, I can empathize with that. d8-) -- Ed Huntress PM is a neat subject. Although it get a lot of bad press for cheap parts, I wonder how many people would sleep at night knowing that most jet turbine blades are made with it. Right. And the connecting rods in a lot of automobile engines. PM is all over the place, and it's often hard to identify, particularly when it's been post-pressed. It looks like a high-quality forging. And it often performs as well or even better than one. It's come a long way from the days when it was used for cheap parts that often were brittle and weak. -- Ed Huntress |
#20
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 17:48:52 +0100, David Billington
wrote: What you're describing is by far the most common way it's done. PM can be fascinating. By mixing powders and sintering at full diffusion temperatures, you can produce alloys that are not possible any other way. For example, the most exotic of the high-speed-steels: Crucible CPM REX 121. You can't make it by melting. That stuff is HIPped, BTW. Regarding memory, I can empathize with that. d8-) I have a book called "The Component Contribution Engine Progress Through the Specialist Manufacturers" by Alan Baker ISBN 0 09 136290 3 and it mentions the use of what they call powder forging being used by GKN to produce conrods for the Porsche 928. The book dates from 1979 and the 928 1978 so looks like some high performance applications have been around for a while. Yes, I remember that. The 928 engine used a lot of advanced technologies. Porsche was trying all their new tricks, including running the pistons in aluminum cylinders. Unlike the Chevy Vega, they got it right. They may have sleeved the 928 later, but it started as a hypereutectic aluminum block with the pistons running directly in the block. I presume this would be an application of what you're referring to as HIPed. IIRC the hot initially powder form is placed in dies and struck to produce a 100% part with high dimensional and weight accuracy compared to standard forging processes. I doubt if they were HIPped. I saw Chevy con rods made of PM in the mid-'90s, and they were being made with conventional sintering and then post-pressing to increase the density. BTW the book is a fascinating read if you haven't read it already and it looks like it's available cheaply on Amazon. Maybe a little dated in the last 34 years but still a good read. |
#21
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On 24/04/13 18:16, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 17:48:52 +0100, David Billington wrote: What you're describing is by far the most common way it's done. PM can be fascinating. By mixing powders and sintering at full diffusion temperatures, you can produce alloys that are not possible any other way. For example, the most exotic of the high-speed-steels: Crucible CPM REX 121. You can't make it by melting. That stuff is HIPped, BTW. Regarding memory, I can empathize with that. d8-) I have a book called "The Component Contribution Engine Progress Through the Specialist Manufacturers" by Alan Baker ISBN 0 09 136290 3 and it mentions the use of what they call powder forging being used by GKN to produce conrods for the Porsche 928. The book dates from 1979 and the 928 1978 so looks like some high performance applications have been around for a while. Yes, I remember that. The 928 engine used a lot of advanced technologies. Porsche was trying all their new tricks, including running the pistons in aluminum cylinders. Unlike the Chevy Vega, they got it right. I mentioned the Vega engine to a mate that works in engine development and he found it hard to believe they went all that trouble developing the block process then put an iron head on it to save money but then maybe that was GMs way. I do remember back in the 70s the engine had a bad reputation. They may have sleeved the 928 later, but it started as a hypereutectic aluminum block with the pistons running directly in the block. IIRC one of the Mercedes Benz engines is the same, a V8 I think / / I presume this would be an application of what you're referring to as HIPed. IIRC the hot initially powder form is placed in dies and struck to produce a 100% part with high dimensional and weight accuracy compared to standard forging processes. I doubt if they were HIPped. I saw Chevy con rods made of PM in the mid-'90s, and they were being made with conventional sintering and then post-pressing to increase the density. I looked up what HIP was and I think you're right that wasn't what was used rather heating to a high temp and striking the powder pressing to consolidate the material. I noticed a youtube video on HIP so will watch that shortly. BTW the book is a fascinating read if you haven't read it already and it looks like it's available cheaply on Amazon. Maybe a little dated in the last 34 years but still a good read. |
#22
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 19:09:50 +0100, David Billington
wrote: On 24/04/13 18:16, Ed Huntress wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 17:48:52 +0100, David Billington wrote: What you're describing is by far the most common way it's done. PM can be fascinating. By mixing powders and sintering at full diffusion temperatures, you can produce alloys that are not possible any other way. For example, the most exotic of the high-speed-steels: Crucible CPM REX 121. You can't make it by melting. That stuff is HIPped, BTW. Regarding memory, I can empathize with that. d8-) I have a book called "The Component Contribution Engine Progress Through the Specialist Manufacturers" by Alan Baker ISBN 0 09 136290 3 and it mentions the use of what they call powder forging being used by GKN to produce conrods for the Porsche 928. The book dates from 1979 and the 928 1978 so looks like some high performance applications have been around for a while. Yes, I remember that. The 928 engine used a lot of advanced technologies. Porsche was trying all their new tricks, including running the pistons in aluminum cylinders. Unlike the Chevy Vega, they got it right. I mentioned the Vega engine to a mate that works in engine development and he found it hard to believe they went all that trouble developing the block process then put an iron head on it to save money but then maybe that was GMs way. I do remember back in the 70s the engine had a bad reputation. There were several basic engineering screw-ups, some so obvious that it was hard to believe. You may remember the Cosworth version of the Vega, which had an aluminum, dual-cam Cosworth head on the same engine block. Some car enthusiast wrote a letter to one of the two big US sports-car magazines -- Sports Car Graphic or Road & Track -- and asked how you could tell a regular Vega from a Cosworth Vega. There was no obvious Cosworth insignia on the car; just one little badge somewhere. "Look under the car," said the magazine editor. "If there's a puddle of oil under it, it's a regular Vega." d8-) They may have sleeved the 928 later, but it started as a hypereutectic aluminum block with the pistons running directly in the block. IIRC one of the Mercedes Benz engines is the same, a V8 I think / / I presume this would be an application of what you're referring to as HIPed. IIRC the hot initially powder form is placed in dies and struck to produce a 100% part with high dimensional and weight accuracy compared to standard forging processes. I doubt if they were HIPped. I saw Chevy con rods made of PM in the mid-'90s, and they were being made with conventional sintering and then post-pressing to increase the density. I looked up what HIP was and I think you're right that wasn't what was used rather heating to a high temp and striking the powder pressing to consolidate the material. I noticed a youtube video on HIP so will watch that shortly. BTW the book is a fascinating read if you haven't read it already and it looks like it's available cheaply on Amazon. Maybe a little dated in the last 34 years but still a good read. |
#23
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On 24/04/13 19:26, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 19:09:50 +0100, David Billington wrote: On 24/04/13 18:16, Ed Huntress wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 17:48:52 +0100, David Billington wrote: What you're describing is by far the most common way it's done. PM can be fascinating. By mixing powders and sintering at full diffusion temperatures, you can produce alloys that are not possible any other way. For example, the most exotic of the high-speed-steels: Crucible CPM REX 121. You can't make it by melting. That stuff is HIPped, BTW. Regarding memory, I can empathize with that. d8-) I have a book called "The Component Contribution Engine Progress Through the Specialist Manufacturers" by Alan Baker ISBN 0 09 136290 3 and it mentions the use of what they call powder forging being used by GKN to produce conrods for the Porsche 928. The book dates from 1979 and the 928 1978 so looks like some high performance applications have been around for a while. Yes, I remember that. The 928 engine used a lot of advanced technologies. Porsche was trying all their new tricks, including running the pistons in aluminum cylinders. Unlike the Chevy Vega, they got it right. I mentioned the Vega engine to a mate that works in engine development and he found it hard to believe they went all that trouble developing the block process then put an iron head on it to save money but then maybe that was GMs way. I do remember back in the 70s the engine had a bad reputation. There were several basic engineering screw-ups, some so obvious that it was hard to believe. You may remember the Cosworth version of the Vega, which had an aluminum, dual-cam Cosworth head on the same engine block. Some car enthusiast wrote a letter to one of the two big US sports-car magazines -- Sports Car Graphic or Road & Track -- and asked how you could tell a regular Vega from a Cosworth Vega. There was no obvious Cosworth insignia on the car; just one little badge somewhere. "Look under the car," said the magazine editor. "If there's a puddle of oil under it, it's a regular Vega." d8-) Yes I was aware of a Cosworth version, maybe the wheels give it away as well. The oil leak maybe like the old joke about British bikes, it's not leaking oil just marking its territory!. They may have sleeved the 928 later, but it started as a hypereutectic aluminum block with the pistons running directly in the block. IIRC one of the Mercedes Benz engines is the same, a V8 I think / / I presume this would be an application of what you're referring to as HIPed. IIRC the hot initially powder form is placed in dies and struck to produce a 100% part with high dimensional and weight accuracy compared to standard forging processes. I doubt if they were HIPped. I saw Chevy con rods made of PM in the mid-'90s, and they were being made with conventional sintering and then post-pressing to increase the density. I looked up what HIP was and I think you're right that wasn't what was used rather heating to a high temp and striking the powder pressing to consolidate the material. I noticed a youtube video on HIP so will watch that shortly. BTW the book is a fascinating read if you haven't read it already and it looks like it's available cheaply on Amazon. Maybe a little dated in the last 34 years but still a good read. |
#24
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
"Ed Huntress" wrote in message ... On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 19:09:50 +0100, David Billington wrote: On 24/04/13 18:16, Ed Huntress wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 17:48:52 +0100, David Billington wrote: What you're describing is by far the most common way it's done. PM can be fascinating. By mixing powders and sintering at full diffusion temperatures, you can produce alloys that are not possible any other way. For example, the most exotic of the high-speed-steels: Crucible CPM REX 121. You can't make it by melting. That stuff is HIPped, BTW. Regarding memory, I can empathize with that. d8-) I have a book called "The Component Contribution Engine Progress Through the Specialist Manufacturers" by Alan Baker ISBN 0 09 136290 3 and it mentions the use of what they call powder forging being used by GKN to produce conrods for the Porsche 928. The book dates from 1979 and the 928 1978 so looks like some high performance applications have been around for a while. Yes, I remember that. The 928 engine used a lot of advanced technologies. Porsche was trying all their new tricks, including running the pistons in aluminum cylinders. Unlike the Chevy Vega, they got it right. I mentioned the Vega engine to a mate that works in engine development and he found it hard to believe they went all that trouble developing the block process then put an iron head on it to save money but then maybe that was GMs way. I do remember back in the 70s the engine had a bad reputation. There were several basic engineering screw-ups, some so obvious that it was hard to believe. You may remember the Cosworth version of the Vega, which had an aluminum, dual-cam Cosworth head on the same engine block. Some car enthusiast wrote a letter to one of the two big US sports-car magazines -- Sports Car Graphic or Road & Track -- and asked how you could tell a regular Vega from a Cosworth Vega. There was no obvious Cosworth insignia on the car; just one little badge somewhere. "Look under the car," said the magazine editor. "If there's a puddle of oil under it, it's a regular Vega." d8-) I do not know the Vega engine, but it sounds like the result of a process I have seen too many times. A senior executive gathers the engineering group and says, "We need to reduce the cost of goods by $100 and pull in the schedule by 2 months. Give me any ideas you have. Don't be bashful, we are just brainstorming here" After some silence he says, " Oh, come on, I know you have ideas." Finally some competent but naive fellow will meekly speak up and say, "well, we COULD do X, but of course that would mean Y." The fellow just assumed anyone in his right mind would never want Y to happen. The executive who does not really understand the technical implications of Y gets all excited, "Really! We can do that? That makes me very happy, lets do it!" As others around the table try to gently tell him the problem with that decision, he is not even listening as he mentally tallies his year end bonus. |
#25
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Best way to repair sintered metal parts?
On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 12:00:39 -0700, "anorton"
wrote: "Ed Huntress" wrote in message .. . On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 19:09:50 +0100, David Billington wrote: On 24/04/13 18:16, Ed Huntress wrote: On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 17:48:52 +0100, David Billington wrote: What you're describing is by far the most common way it's done. PM can be fascinating. By mixing powders and sintering at full diffusion temperatures, you can produce alloys that are not possible any other way. For example, the most exotic of the high-speed-steels: Crucible CPM REX 121. You can't make it by melting. That stuff is HIPped, BTW. Regarding memory, I can empathize with that. d8-) I have a book called "The Component Contribution Engine Progress Through the Specialist Manufacturers" by Alan Baker ISBN 0 09 136290 3 and it mentions the use of what they call powder forging being used by GKN to produce conrods for the Porsche 928. The book dates from 1979 and the 928 1978 so looks like some high performance applications have been around for a while. Yes, I remember that. The 928 engine used a lot of advanced technologies. Porsche was trying all their new tricks, including running the pistons in aluminum cylinders. Unlike the Chevy Vega, they got it right. I mentioned the Vega engine to a mate that works in engine development and he found it hard to believe they went all that trouble developing the block process then put an iron head on it to save money but then maybe that was GMs way. I do remember back in the 70s the engine had a bad reputation. There were several basic engineering screw-ups, some so obvious that it was hard to believe. You may remember the Cosworth version of the Vega, which had an aluminum, dual-cam Cosworth head on the same engine block. Some car enthusiast wrote a letter to one of the two big US sports-car magazines -- Sports Car Graphic or Road & Track -- and asked how you could tell a regular Vega from a Cosworth Vega. There was no obvious Cosworth insignia on the car; just one little badge somewhere. "Look under the car," said the magazine editor. "If there's a puddle of oil under it, it's a regular Vega." d8-) I do not know the Vega engine, but it sounds like the result of a process I have seen too many times. A senior executive gathers the engineering group and says, "We need to reduce the cost of goods by $100 and pull in the schedule by 2 months. Give me any ideas you have. Don't be bashful, we are just brainstorming here" After some silence he says, " Oh, come on, I know you have ideas." Finally some competent but naive fellow will meekly speak up and say, "well, we COULD do X, but of course that would mean Y." The fellow just assumed anyone in his right mind would never want Y to happen. The executive who does not really understand the technical implications of Y gets all excited, "Really! We can do that? That makes me very happy, lets do it!" As others around the table try to gently tell him the problem with that decision, he is not even listening as he mentally tallies his year end bonus. I don't know what happened with the Vega design. It had so much going for it when the first design ideas were made public; then they built it and the problems started cropping up; then the engineering details came out, and even us amateur car buffs said, "Whaaa?" It's not like they didn't know about the differential expansion problems. -- Ed Huntress |
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