Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Dying for a Chevy Volt, but....

"Jon Elson" wrote in message
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whoyakidding's ghost wrote:

I think if doing it again, I'd go with maybe 8 deep cycle
batteries, an armature controller, and maybe skip the hybrid thing.

Jon


Today you can buy a 3-phase AC motor with feedback and an efficient
PWM controller. Throttle control is very smooth with them.
http://www.electriccarinternational....Engines-AC.php




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Default Dying for a Chevy Volt, but....

Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Jon Elson" wrote in message
...
whoyakidding's ghost wrote:

I think if doing it again, I'd go with maybe 8 deep cycle
batteries, an armature controller, and maybe skip the hybrid thing.

Jon


Today you can buy a 3-phase AC motor with feedback and an efficient
PWM controller. Throttle control is very smooth with them.
http://www.electriccarinternational....Engines-AC.php

YIKES! 490 Lbs, and $7900 with controller! That's a bit over my
budget. I paid about $700 for everything in my contraption, and
the jet engine starter motor is less than 90 Lbs.

I was thinking that a spindle motor out of a larger machine tool,
like Fanuc or something, might make a decent traction motor.
Two of them, one for each front wheel, then you could skip the
differential, and have a bit of backup if a VFD failed.
AC induction motors are insanely heavy in the 25+ Hp range, but
some of the PM brushless spindle motors might be around 100 Lbs
each. You'd need a gearbox to couple to the wheel speed, though.

Jon
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Default Dying for a Chevy Volt, but....

On Mon, 25 Feb 2013 17:57:00 -0600, Jon Elson
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Jon Elson" wrote in message
...
whoyakidding's ghost wrote:

I think if doing it again, I'd go with maybe 8 deep cycle
batteries, an armature controller, and maybe skip the hybrid thing.

Jon


Today you can buy a 3-phase AC motor with feedback and an efficient
PWM controller. Throttle control is very smooth with them.
http://www.electriccarinternational....Engines-AC.php

YIKES! 490 Lbs, and $7900 with controller! That's a bit over my
budget. I paid about $700 for everything in my contraption, and
the jet engine starter motor is less than 90 Lbs.

I was thinking that a spindle motor out of a larger machine tool,
like Fanuc or something, might make a decent traction motor.
Two of them, one for each front wheel, then you could skip the
differential, and have a bit of backup if a VFD failed.
AC induction motors are insanely heavy in the 25+ Hp range, but
some of the PM brushless spindle motors might be around 100 Lbs
each. You'd need a gearbox to couple to the wheel speed, though.

Jon

A friend of mine is an electronics engineer. His main work is
designing inverters that work with solar power systems. He has
designed and built the electronics and mechanics of an electric motor
and drive system. I built many of the mechanical motor components but
he had the laminations made special. He has also helped build a couple
electric vehicles. Because of his qualifications I asked him if a 10
HP shunt wound DC motor I have kicking around would make a good
electric vehicle motor. He said that it would not be ideal but would
work OK. I was thinking that with only 10 HP the car would have a
pretty low top speed and poor acceleration. He said that pushing a
small car, like a Dodge Colt, would be easy if I didn't want to go
more than 45 mph. However, acceleration up to about 30 would be good.
He said that my 10 HP motor could put out 50 HP for short periods
without damage to the motor. Of course, he said, don't hold me to
anything, we're just shooting the breeze. But DC motors can put out
much more power briefly than continuously.
Eric
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Default Dying for a Chevy Volt, but....

wrote:

I asked him if a 10
HP shunt wound DC motor I have kicking around would make a good
electric vehicle motor. He said that it would not be ideal but would
work OK. I was thinking that with only 10 HP the car would have a
pretty low top speed and poor acceleration. He said that pushing a
small car, like a Dodge Colt, would be easy if I didn't want to go
more than 45 mph. However, acceleration up to about 30 would be good.
He said that my 10 HP motor could put out 50 HP for short periods
without damage to the motor. Of course, he said, don't hold me to
anything, we're just shooting the breeze. But DC motors can put out
much more power briefly than continuously.

I drove the VW bug on electric power, using the GE jet engine
starter/generator. It is rated at 400 A continuous as a generator, and
about 1200 A for one minute as a starter. I had too-small battery
cables, so I was afraid to go over 250 A. But, the thing ran better,
I would say, that with the original VW engine. PLENTY of acceleration
and no trouble at all climbing steep hills. The only downside to it
was with the field current cranked way up (which you had to do to keep
the RPM in check with 48 V on the armature) it was VERY noisy. I started
the motor with a series resistor, then cut out the resistor to run the
armature directly off the batteries.

So, the starter/generator was rated at 12 KW (30 V x 400 A) but at
100 A and 48 V that was 4.8 KW or 6.4 Hp. (250 A at 48 V is also 12 KW
or 16 Hp.)

Jon
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