Like usual in the last week, I was cutting up steel bars on my
bandsaw. I cut them up so that they fit in USPS flat rate boxes and
can be economically shipped to hobbyists.

Anyway, I took the next rectangular bar without thinking too much. It
had a couple of pins in it, which shuold have tipped me off, but did
not.

I loaded it into the bandsaw, turned it on, and walked away.

10 minutes lates I come back, and to my surprise, the bandsaw is still
going, without having even made a dent in the bar.

A little investigation made me realize that the bar is hardened A-2
(it had it stamped on the side, it was hadr to notice).

The $40 blade is ruined.

So, I will be more careful!

i

On Sat, 16 Feb 2013 09:03:00 -0600, Ignoramus329
wrote:

Like usual in the last week, I was cutting up steel bars on my
bandsaw. I cut them up so that they fit in USPS flat rate boxes and
can be economically shipped to hobbyists.

Anyway, I took the next rectangular bar without thinking too much. It
had a couple of pins in it, which shuold have tipped me off, but did
not.

I loaded it into the bandsaw, turned it on, and walked away.

10 minutes lates I come back, and to my surprise, the bandsaw is still
going, without having even made a dent in the bar.

A little investigation made me realize that the bar is hardened A-2
(it had it stamped on the side, it was hadr to notice).

The $40 blade is ruined.

So, I will be more careful!

i

Save the blade for friction sawing. It may work, if there's enough HSS
in it.

--
Ed Huntress

It may be worthwhile to attach a file to the saw, in the way that a chuck
key is chained to a drill press.

An alternate tester could be a carbide-tipped scribe, I suppose, or even a
hacksaw blade.

--
WB
..........


"Ignoramus329" wrote in message
...
Like usual in the last week, I was cutting up steel bars on my
bandsaw. I cut them up so that they fit in USPS flat rate boxes and
can be economically shipped to hobbyists.

Anyway, I took the next rectangular bar without thinking too much. It
had a couple of pins in it, which shuold have tipped me off, but did
not.

I loaded it into the bandsaw, turned it on, and walked away.

10 minutes lates I come back, and to my surprise, the bandsaw is still
going, without having even made a dent in the bar.

A little investigation made me realize that the bar is hardened A-2
(it had it stamped on the side, it was hadr to notice).

The $40 blade is ruined.

So, I will be more careful!

i

On Feb 16, 10:03*am, Ignoramus329
wrote:
Like usual in the last week, I was cutting up steel bars on my
bandsaw. I cut them up so that they fit in USPS flat rate boxes and
can be economically shipped to hobbyists.

Anyway, I took the next rectangular bar without thinking too much. It
had a couple of pins in it, which shuold have tipped me off, but did
not.

I loaded it into the bandsaw, turned it on, and walked away.

10 minutes lates I come back, and to my surprise, the bandsaw is still
going, without having even made a dent in the bar.

A little investigation made me realize that the bar is hardened
A-2
(it had it stamped on the side, it was hadr to notice).

The $40 blade is ruined.

So, I will be more careful!

I thought you were going to say something stupid like "I was cutting
wood with it and hit a nail or something".

Ignoramus329 wrote:

Like usual in the last week, I was cutting up steel bars on my
bandsaw. I cut them up so that they fit in USPS flat rate boxes and
can be economically shipped to hobbyists.

snip

A little investigation made me realize that the bar is hardened A-2
(it had it stamped on the side, it was hadr to notice).

The $40 blade is ruined.
That's why I make blades out of 100 foot rolls of the cheap
stuff. The stuff I cut tends to tear up blades, but I only
pay a couple buck each (I know, now, the cost has gone way up).

Jon

On 2013-02-17, Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus329 wrote:

Like usual in the last week, I was cutting up steel bars on my
bandsaw. I cut them up so that they fit in USPS flat rate boxes and
can be economically shipped to hobbyists.

snip

A little investigation made me realize that the bar is hardened A-2
(it had it stamped on the side, it was hadr to notice).

The $40 blade is ruined.
That's why I make blades out of 100 foot rolls of the cheap
stuff. The stuff I cut tends to tear up blades, but I only
pay a couple buck each (I know, now, the cost has gone way up).

That's interesting. I was very happy with this blade. It worked very
well for a long time.

i

Maybe a punch and hammer would be your friend - simple test.
Martin

On 2/16/2013 9:03 AM, Ignoramus329 wrote:
Like usual in the last week, I was cutting up steel bars on my
bandsaw. I cut them up so that they fit in USPS flat rate boxes and
can be economically shipped to hobbyists.

Anyway, I took the next rectangular bar without thinking too much. It
had a couple of pins in it, which shuold have tipped me off, but did
not.

I loaded it into the bandsaw, turned it on, and walked away.

10 minutes lates I come back, and to my surprise, the bandsaw is still
going, without having even made a dent in the bar.

A little investigation made me realize that the bar is hardened A-2
(it had it stamped on the side, it was hadr to notice).

The $40 blade is ruined.

So, I will be more careful!

i

Ignoramus329 wrote:



That's interesting. I was very happy with this blade. It worked very
well for a long time.
I cut up all sorts of things, from cutting gold edge fingers off circuit
boards to old bed rails (both really hard on blades). Also, my
cheap 4x6" bandsaw doesn't have hydraulic feed. So, I tear up blades
pretty quickly. Mostly I cut aluminum sheet and bar stock for
machining operations, which is pretty gentle on the blades, and
they will wear out from fatigue before the teeth are shot.

I did get a free sample Starrett bimetal blade, and teeth chipped off
in the first couple minutes of use. So, on this saw, you can't
use the expensive blades.

Jon

On 2013-02-17, Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus329 wrote:



That's interesting. I was very happy with this blade. It worked very
well for a long time.
I cut up all sorts of things, from cutting gold edge fingers off circuit
boards to old bed rails (both really hard on blades). Also, my
cheap 4x6" bandsaw doesn't have hydraulic feed. So, I tear up blades
pretty quickly. Mostly I cut aluminum sheet and bar stock for
machining operations, which is pretty gentle on the blades, and
they will wear out from fatigue before the teeth are shot.

I did get a free sample Starrett bimetal blade, and teeth chipped off
in the first couple minutes of use. So, on this saw, you can't
use the expensive blades.

Maybe the teeth were too big for your work, maybe it was too low TPI?

On Sun, 17 Feb 2013 10:55:12 -0600, Jon Elson
wrote:

Ignoramus329 wrote:



That's interesting. I was very happy with this blade. It worked very
well for a long time.
I cut up all sorts of things, from cutting gold edge fingers off circuit
boards to old bed rails (both really hard on blades). Also, my
cheap 4x6" bandsaw doesn't have hydraulic feed. So, I tear up blades
pretty quickly. Mostly I cut aluminum sheet and bar stock for
machining operations, which is pretty gentle on the blades, and
they will wear out from fatigue before the teeth are shot.

I did get a free sample Starrett bimetal blade, and teeth chipped off
in the first couple minutes of use. So, on this saw, you can't
use the expensive blades.

Jon

You CAN add your own "hydraulic" downfeed control with a simple
cylinder and a needle valve, with a couple feet of copper tubing.

Its not rocket science.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

"Ignoramus329" wrote in message
...
Like usual in the last week, I was cutting up steel bars on my
bandsaw. I cut them up so that they fit in USPS flat rate boxes and
can be economically shipped to hobbyists.

Anyway, I took the next rectangular bar without thinking too much. It
had a couple of pins in it, which shuold have tipped me off, but did
not.

I loaded it into the bandsaw, turned it on, and walked away.

10 minutes lates I come back, and to my surprise, the bandsaw is still
going, without having even made a dent in the bar.

A little investigation made me realize that the bar is hardened A-2
(it had it stamped on the side, it was hadr to notice).

The $40 blade is ruined.

So, I will be more careful!


Since you have no ****ing clue what you are going to be sawing at any fiven
moment then you should probably buy the most expensive blade you can find.

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in
message ...

"Ignoramus329" wrote in message

The $40 blade is ruined.

So, I will be more careful!

You could add a hook for a hacksaw to test mystery metal. I use
10-for-a-dollar blue-painted blades on unknown steel, which is most of
my stock. They cut as well as good ones at first though they don't
stay sharp very long.

Hi, what's your band saw by the way?

On Feb 22, 4:07*pm, surfside wrote:
Hi, what's your band saw by the way?

I've seen where a Milwaukee was engineered to run string, twine or
cord or something like that. I never actually saw it run, though.