I am going to take some 1/2" and 3/4" cold rolled rod, and basically make it
up into a catcher's mask configuration, just bigger. Squares about 2-3"
square. I am going to weld it together , then hard face it.

This will certainly change the properties all around. It is going to be
used in 40-50 degree F water, and be subject to right around 1,000# of
striking force, and 4,000 pulses per second. It could be subject to below
freezing temperatures, too, but not used at that time.

What can anyone tell me? Which rod would be the best for joining the rolled
bars? I have some hard face rod that a friend of mine who sells mining
supplies got for me that is supposed to be the best choice for the
conditions described. If I buy some 1/2" flat bar to use in this
fabrication, I probably will be able to cut it with my chop saw without too
much HAZ. But, then when I weld it together, there will be substantial HAZ.

What would be the best heat treatment? Anything to do particularly right
after welding? Let it cool on the bench? Quench? Throw in an oven at a
high temp, and slowly cool? I want to keep from cracking mainly.

These will probably be throw away items, that is, when they either break, or
wear through, they would be replaced with new rather than fixed by
replacement of bars, since the bars would be hard to cut out, and put new
short sections in.

Help appreciated.

I'm getting the first prototypes of the gold dredge head ready.

Steve

On Fri, 8 Feb 2013 21:24:13 -0700, "Steve B" wrote:

I am going to take some 1/2" and 3/4" cold rolled rod, and basically make it
up into a catcher's mask configuration, just bigger. Squares about 2-3"
square. I am going to weld it together , then hard face it.

cold rolled does heat treat, forget all that.

For welding, my goto rod is 7011 stick. Deep penetration. I often
switch to 7018 after the first pass to build it up for multiple pass
welding. From what you've said, weld failures will be your main issue.

hardfacing is great for the cutting edge, not for structural strength.

karl

On Fri, 8 Feb 2013 21:24:13 -0700, "Steve B" wrote:

I am going to take some 1/2" and 3/4" cold rolled rod, and basically make it
up into a catcher's mask configuration, just bigger. Squares about 2-3"
square. I am going to weld it together , then hard face it.

This will certainly change the properties all around. It is going to be
used in 40-50 degree F water, and be subject to right around 1,000# of
striking force, and 4,000 pulses per second. It could be subject to below
freezing temperatures, too, but not used at that time.

What can anyone tell me? Which rod would be the best for joining the rolled
bars? I have some hard face rod that a friend of mine who sells mining
supplies got for me that is supposed to be the best choice for the
conditions described. If I buy some 1/2" flat bar to use in this
fabrication, I probably will be able to cut it with my chop saw without too
much HAZ. But, then when I weld it together, there will be substantial HAZ.

What would be the best heat treatment? Anything to do particularly right
after welding? Let it cool on the bench? Quench? Throw in an oven at a
high temp, and slowly cool? I want to keep from cracking mainly.

These will probably be throw away items, that is, when they either break, or
wear through, they would be replaced with new rather than fixed by
replacement of bars, since the bars would be hard to cut out, and put new
short sections in.

Help appreciated.

I'm getting the first prototypes of the gold dredge head ready.

Steve

Depending on what kind of cold rolled you are using - 1010 has a
tensile strength of about 50,000 psi; 1020 about 60,000 psi.

I don't believe that you can effectively heat treat 1010 and 1020 is
not usually heat treated as it isn't usually considered economical but
apparently heating and quenching can get to around 90,000 psi, but I
think that is fully hardened and untempered.

Pretty much what the 60xx series rods were designed for :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.

On Feb 8, 11:24*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
I am going to take some 1/2" and 3/4" cold rolled rod, and basically make it
up into a catcher's mask configuration, just bigger. *Squares about 2-3"
square. *I am going to weld it together , then hard face it.

This will certainly change the properties all around. *It is going to be
used in 40-50 degree F water, and be subject to right around 1,000# of
striking force, and 4,000 pulses per second. *It could be subject to below
freezing temperatures, too, but not used at that time.


Steve

I do not understand why you are using cold rolled. Cold rolled has
close tolerances on the size, but you will lose that when you hard
face it. Being cheap I would use weldable rebar.

Dan

"Karl Townsend" wrote

For welding, my goto rod is 7011 stick. Deep penetration. I often
switch to 7018 after the first pass to build it up for multiple pass
welding. From what you've said, weld failures will be your main issue.

hardfacing is great for the cutting edge, not for structural strength.

karl

Can you tell me more of the 7011? First time I heard of it. Now, there's
three I need to get and try, 6013, 7014, and 7011.

Steve

On Sat, 9 Feb 2013 12:08:50 -0700, "Steve B" wrote:


"Karl Townsend" wrote

For welding, my goto rod is 7011 stick. Deep penetration. I often
switch to 7018 after the first pass to build it up for multiple pass
welding. From what you've said, weld failures will be your main issue.

hardfacing is great for the cutting edge, not for structural strength.

karl

Can you tell me more of the 7011? First time I heard of it. Now, there's
three I need to get and try, 6013, 7014, and 7011.

Steve

7011 can be found at any farm and fleet store. It gives DEEP weld
penetration, best rod for verticle down welding. Again, after the
first pass i switch to a rod that doesn't burn it, 6013 would be about
the same as 7014 here.

7011 should be run DC straight (DC-) to avoid over penetration.

I switch to DC reverse on 6013 and 7018 (7014 too)

FWIW, 7014 is my goto rod for burn throughs on plate. Welds well at
low power. You can go around the hole, stop just long enough for the
weld to cool from cherry red, then repeat.

Karl

Read this before you decide on the material:

http://www.spaco.org/hrvscr.htm

Pete Stanaitis
----------------

"Pete S" wrote in message
...
Read this before you decide on the material:

http://www.spaco.org/hrvscr.htm

Pete Stanaitis
----------------
Thanks, Pete. Looks like .75" HR will do the trick, and come in at a much
lower price.

Steve