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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Mounting Conundrum, Revisited
On Tuesday, November 13, 2012 2:28:05 PM UTC-5, Tim Wescott wrote:
OK, here it is again with more pictures and explanations. Sorry for starting a new thread, but it seemed reasonable given that I did such a poor job of getting the design problem stated in the last one. I'm building a gizmo, which, for lack of a better name I'm calling a "fan trainer". It consists of an arm about 30" long with a small DC motor and propeller on one end, and a pivot and counterweight on the other. The thing is pivoted on a frame which has a controller circuit board. The controller monitors the motor current and the arm position, and drives the motor voltage. This isn't an executive toy that you sit back and watch move (that would get old very fast). Rather, it is a platform to provide a series of exercises for a student to tune the control system, and to do it in a way that you can see and feel it working. I'd use it in conjunction with seminars, and perhaps make it part of a "seminar at home" package. So my larger problem is to manufacture this in small quantities (20 to 100 a year), and sell them at a reasonable price without losing my ass. "Not losing my ass" translates to a total bill-of-materials cost of $50 or so, and if I could get it way lower then I'd just sell it for less and increase my potential market. My immediate problem is that the potentiometer that senses the arm position is getting punched off of the board in shipping. The potentiometer has a hole, through which you pass a 4mm shaft with a flat milled into it. If you mill the flat so that you can easily pass the shaft through the pot then the control is not smooth -- the arm hunts across the rotational slop caused by the shaft rotating within the pot. If you shim the flat for a snug fit (very very light press fit?) then when you chuck the thing into a box and fly with it in checked baggage, the pot gets punched off of the board, apparently by getting hit from behind. The shaft on which the arm pivots is restrained in the housing by a couple of model airplane wheel collars. On the trip out, both of these collars, and the arm, loosened on the shaft, and the pot was punched out. On the return trip I loosened the arm and tied it to the back plate of the frame -- the wheel collars were fine then, but the pot was still punched out. I really like that pot: it costs less than $2.00 for onsies (less, obviously, in higher quantities), it has undetectably small friction, it isn't noisy, and because it's board mounted it saves me from needing a bunch of brackets which would just drive up my BOM cost. So any alternative that involves not using the pot has to compete with that price, and being practical to do in small quantities in an environment where labor is not free. So I'm thinking at this point that perhaps I just need to be happy with what I have, and to warn people not to drop the thing off of a table or to ship it without disassembling it first. But it would be nice if there was a way to make it more robust (by isolating the pot from the shaft somehow). The best suggestion I got from the other thread, assuming that I can do it cheaply, is to put a slit in the end of the shaft, so I basically have a D-shaped shaft with some spring. I would like that idea a lot if I knew what it would cost to have a batch of 20 shafts made with the slit, vs. without, and if that cost wasn't much greater than just making the shafts. The second-best suggestion is to use a flat coupling. This would require (essentially) two shafts and the coupling, which is clearly going to drive up the BOM cost, but I'm still toying with how to make it cheap. Several people suggested reinforcing the mounting of the pot to the board: it probably doesn't show in the pictures, but it is clear from the construction of the thing that this would just result in _part_ of the now-destroyed pot remaining on the board. Here's a general arrangement shot: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5l...0MxMEM3b1l2c0k And the thing in action: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5lS...0MxMEM3b1l2c0k And, finally, a close-up of the potentiometer in question: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5l...TBCc3VzWDYxZ0E -- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground? Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software http://www.wescottdesign.com I think you ought to focus on *why* the wheel collars loosened. I am assuming that had they stayed secure on the shaft that the pot would have survived. If that is a correct assumption, how about a dimple in the shaft for the setscrew, or perhaps some loctite? This is a pretty neat training gizmo for control loops. Sort of like the ball balancer, but better. |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Mounting Conundrum, Revisited
On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 13:14:02 -0800, rangerssuck wrote:
On Tuesday, November 13, 2012 2:28:05 PM UTC-5, Tim Wescott wrote: OK, here it is again with more pictures and explanations. Sorry for starting a new thread, but it seemed reasonable given that I did such a poor job of getting the design problem stated in the last one. I'm building a gizmo, which, for lack of a better name I'm calling a "fan trainer". It consists of an arm about 30" long with a small DC motor and propeller on one end, and a pivot and counterweight on the other. The thing is pivoted on a frame which has a controller circuit board. The controller monitors the motor current and the arm position, and drives the motor voltage. This isn't an executive toy that you sit back and watch move (that would get old very fast). Rather, it is a platform to provide a series of exercises for a student to tune the control system, and to do it in a way that you can see and feel it working. I'd use it in conjunction with seminars, and perhaps make it part of a "seminar at home" package. So my larger problem is to manufacture this in small quantities (20 to 100 a year), and sell them at a reasonable price without losing my ass. "Not losing my ass" translates to a total bill-of-materials cost of $50 or so, and if I could get it way lower then I'd just sell it for less and increase my potential market. My immediate problem is that the potentiometer that senses the arm position is getting punched off of the board in shipping. The potentiometer has a hole, through which you pass a 4mm shaft with a flat milled into it. If you mill the flat so that you can easily pass the shaft through the pot then the control is not smooth -- the arm hunts across the rotational slop caused by the shaft rotating within the pot. If you shim the flat for a snug fit (very very light press fit?) then when you chuck the thing into a box and fly with it in checked baggage, the pot gets punched off of the board, apparently by getting hit from behind. The shaft on which the arm pivots is restrained in the housing by a couple of model airplane wheel collars. On the trip out, both of these collars, and the arm, loosened on the shaft, and the pot was punched out. On the return trip I loosened the arm and tied it to the back plate of the frame -- the wheel collars were fine then, but the pot was still punched out. I really like that pot: it costs less than $2.00 for onsies (less, obviously, in higher quantities), it has undetectably small friction, it isn't noisy, and because it's board mounted it saves me from needing a bunch of brackets which would just drive up my BOM cost. So any alternative that involves not using the pot has to compete with that price, and being practical to do in small quantities in an environment where labor is not free. So I'm thinking at this point that perhaps I just need to be happy with what I have, and to warn people not to drop the thing off of a table or to ship it without disassembling it first. But it would be nice if there was a way to make it more robust (by isolating the pot from the shaft somehow). The best suggestion I got from the other thread, assuming that I can do it cheaply, is to put a slit in the end of the shaft, so I basically have a D-shaped shaft with some spring. I would like that idea a lot if I knew what it would cost to have a batch of 20 shafts made with the slit, vs. without, and if that cost wasn't much greater than just making the shafts. The second-best suggestion is to use a flat coupling. This would require (essentially) two shafts and the coupling, which is clearly going to drive up the BOM cost, but I'm still toying with how to make it cheap. Several people suggested reinforcing the mounting of the pot to the board: it probably doesn't show in the pictures, but it is clear from the construction of the thing that this would just result in _part_ of the now-destroyed pot remaining on the board. Here's a general arrangement shot: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5l...0MxMEM3b1l2c0k And the thing in action: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5lS...0MxMEM3b1l2c0k And, finally, a close-up of the potentiometer in question: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5l...TBCc3VzWDYxZ0E -- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground? Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software http://www.wescottdesign.com I think you ought to focus on *why* the wheel collars loosened. I am assuming that had they stayed secure on the shaft that the pot would have survived. If that is a correct assumption, how about a dimple in the shaft for the setscrew, or perhaps some loctite? This is a pretty neat training gizmo for control loops. Sort of like the ball balancer, but better. I considered doing a ball balancer, but I figured this would cost less. For that matter, I really wanted to do an inverted pendulum -- but I couldn't see how to do the mechanism cheaply. The wheel collars stayed tight on the flight home, yet the pot was still punched off the board. Not by as far -- but all leads broken is still all leads broken. I suspect that any sort of collar that rides close to the board to limit travel in that direction will either rub or have too much play to be safe -- but I could be wrong. At this point what I see is a choice between some rotational slop between shaft and pot (which messes up the educational value of the thing), the current setup (which leaves it fragile, but possibly manageably so), some sort of a flex coupling or spring (assuming I can figure out how to do that well and cheaply), or some sort of a spring-loaded means of holding the shaft-pot joint to be snug in rotation, but still low friction to axial motion. -- Tim Wescott Control system and signal processing consulting www.wescottdesign.com |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Mounting Conundrum, Revisited
On 11/13/2012 1:47 PM, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 13:14:02 -0800, rangerssuck wrote: On Tuesday, November 13, 2012 2:28:05 PM UTC-5, Tim Wescott wrote: OK, here it is again with more pictures and explanations. Sorry for starting a new thread, but it seemed reasonable given that I did such a poor job of getting the design problem stated in the last one. I'm building a gizmo, which, for lack of a better name I'm calling a "fan trainer". It consists of an arm about 30" long with a small DC motor and propeller on one end, and a pivot and counterweight on the other. The thing is pivoted on a frame which has a controller circuit board. The controller monitors the motor current and the arm position, and drives the motor voltage. This isn't an executive toy that you sit back and watch move (that would get old very fast). Rather, it is a platform to provide a series of exercises for a student to tune the control system, and to do it in a way that you can see and feel it working. I'd use it in conjunction with seminars, and perhaps make it part of a "seminar at home" package. So my larger problem is to manufacture this in small quantities (20 to 100 a year), and sell them at a reasonable price without losing my ass. "Not losing my ass" translates to a total bill-of-materials cost of $50 or so, and if I could get it way lower then I'd just sell it for less and increase my potential market. My immediate problem is that the potentiometer that senses the arm position is getting punched off of the board in shipping. The potentiometer has a hole, through which you pass a 4mm shaft with a flat milled into it. If you mill the flat so that you can easily pass the shaft through the pot then the control is not smooth -- the arm hunts across the rotational slop caused by the shaft rotating within the pot. If you shim the flat for a snug fit (very very light press fit?) then when you chuck the thing into a box and fly with it in checked baggage, the pot gets punched off of the board, apparently by getting hit from behind. The shaft on which the arm pivots is restrained in the housing by a couple of model airplane wheel collars. On the trip out, both of these collars, and the arm, loosened on the shaft, and the pot was punched out. On the return trip I loosened the arm and tied it to the back plate of the frame -- the wheel collars were fine then, but the pot was still punched out. I really like that pot: it costs less than $2.00 for onsies (less, obviously, in higher quantities), it has undetectably small friction, it isn't noisy, and because it's board mounted it saves me from needing a bunch of brackets which would just drive up my BOM cost. So any alternative that involves not using the pot has to compete with that price, and being practical to do in small quantities in an environment where labor is not free. So I'm thinking at this point that perhaps I just need to be happy with what I have, and to warn people not to drop the thing off of a table or to ship it without disassembling it first. But it would be nice if there was a way to make it more robust (by isolating the pot from the shaft somehow). The best suggestion I got from the other thread, assuming that I can do it cheaply, is to put a slit in the end of the shaft, so I basically have a D-shaped shaft with some spring. I would like that idea a lot if I knew what it would cost to have a batch of 20 shafts made with the slit, vs. without, and if that cost wasn't much greater than just making the shafts. The second-best suggestion is to use a flat coupling. This would require (essentially) two shafts and the coupling, which is clearly going to drive up the BOM cost, but I'm still toying with how to make it cheap. Several people suggested reinforcing the mounting of the pot to the board: it probably doesn't show in the pictures, but it is clear from the construction of the thing that this would just result in _part_ of the now-destroyed pot remaining on the board. Here's a general arrangement shot: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5l...0MxMEM3b1l2c0k And the thing in action: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5lS...0MxMEM3b1l2c0k And, finally, a close-up of the potentiometer in question: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5l...TBCc3VzWDYxZ0E -- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground? Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits& Software http://www.wescottdesign.com I think you ought to focus on *why* the wheel collars loosened. I am assuming that had they stayed secure on the shaft that the pot would have survived. If that is a correct assumption, how about a dimple in the shaft for the setscrew, or perhaps some loctite? This is a pretty neat training gizmo for control loops. Sort of like the ball balancer, but better. I considered doing a ball balancer, but I figured this would cost less. For that matter, I really wanted to do an inverted pendulum -- but I couldn't see how to do the mechanism cheaply. The wheel collars stayed tight on the flight home, yet the pot was still punched off the board. Not by as far -- but all leads broken is still all leads broken. I suspect that any sort of collar that rides close to the board to limit travel in that direction will either rub or have too much play to be safe -- but I could be wrong. At this point what I see is a choice between some rotational slop between shaft and pot (which messes up the educational value of the thing), the current setup (which leaves it fragile, but possibly manageably so), some sort of a flex coupling or spring (assuming I can figure out how to do that well and cheaply), or some sort of a spring-loaded means of holding the shaft-pot joint to be snug in rotation, but still low friction to axial motion. If this was "checked" luggage instead of carry-on, then suspect the bag was x-rayed, and the inspector removed the items to play with it and broke it. then replaced it in your luggage. Paul |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Mounting Conundrum, Revisited
On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 14:11:17 -0800, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 11/13/2012 1:47 PM, Tim Wescott wrote: On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 13:14:02 -0800, rangerssuck wrote: On Tuesday, November 13, 2012 2:28:05 PM UTC-5, Tim Wescott wrote: OK, here it is again with more pictures and explanations. Sorry for starting a new thread, but it seemed reasonable given that I did such a poor job of getting the design problem stated in the last one. I'm building a gizmo, which, for lack of a better name I'm calling a "fan trainer". It consists of an arm about 30" long with a small DC motor and propeller on one end, and a pivot and counterweight on the other. The thing is pivoted on a frame which has a controller circuit board. The controller monitors the motor current and the arm position, and drives the motor voltage. This isn't an executive toy that you sit back and watch move (that would get old very fast). Rather, it is a platform to provide a series of exercises for a student to tune the control system, and to do it in a way that you can see and feel it working. I'd use it in conjunction with seminars, and perhaps make it part of a "seminar at home" package. So my larger problem is to manufacture this in small quantities (20 to 100 a year), and sell them at a reasonable price without losing my ass. "Not losing my ass" translates to a total bill-of-materials cost of $50 or so, and if I could get it way lower then I'd just sell it for less and increase my potential market. My immediate problem is that the potentiometer that senses the arm position is getting punched off of the board in shipping. The potentiometer has a hole, through which you pass a 4mm shaft with a flat milled into it. If you mill the flat so that you can easily pass the shaft through the pot then the control is not smooth -- the arm hunts across the rotational slop caused by the shaft rotating within the pot. If you shim the flat for a snug fit (very very light press fit?) then when you chuck the thing into a box and fly with it in checked baggage, the pot gets punched off of the board, apparently by getting hit from behind. The shaft on which the arm pivots is restrained in the housing by a couple of model airplane wheel collars. On the trip out, both of these collars, and the arm, loosened on the shaft, and the pot was punched out. On the return trip I loosened the arm and tied it to the back plate of the frame -- the wheel collars were fine then, but the pot was still punched out. I really like that pot: it costs less than $2.00 for onsies (less, obviously, in higher quantities), it has undetectably small friction, it isn't noisy, and because it's board mounted it saves me from needing a bunch of brackets which would just drive up my BOM cost. So any alternative that involves not using the pot has to compete with that price, and being practical to do in small quantities in an environment where labor is not free. So I'm thinking at this point that perhaps I just need to be happy with what I have, and to warn people not to drop the thing off of a table or to ship it without disassembling it first. But it would be nice if there was a way to make it more robust (by isolating the pot from the shaft somehow). The best suggestion I got from the other thread, assuming that I can do it cheaply, is to put a slit in the end of the shaft, so I basically have a D-shaped shaft with some spring. I would like that idea a lot if I knew what it would cost to have a batch of 20 shafts made with the slit, vs. without, and if that cost wasn't much greater than just making the shafts. The second-best suggestion is to use a flat coupling. This would require (essentially) two shafts and the coupling, which is clearly going to drive up the BOM cost, but I'm still toying with how to make it cheap. Several people suggested reinforcing the mounting of the pot to the board: it probably doesn't show in the pictures, but it is clear from the construction of the thing that this would just result in _part_ of the now-destroyed pot remaining on the board. Here's a general arrangement shot: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5l...0MxMEM3b1l2c0k And the thing in action: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5lS...0MxMEM3b1l2c0k And, finally, a close-up of the potentiometer in question: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5l...TBCc3VzWDYxZ0E -- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground? Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits& Software http://www.wescottdesign.com I think you ought to focus on *why* the wheel collars loosened. I am assuming that had they stayed secure on the shaft that the pot would have survived. If that is a correct assumption, how about a dimple in the shaft for the setscrew, or perhaps some loctite? This is a pretty neat training gizmo for control loops. Sort of like the ball balancer, but better. I considered doing a ball balancer, but I figured this would cost less. For that matter, I really wanted to do an inverted pendulum -- but I couldn't see how to do the mechanism cheaply. The wheel collars stayed tight on the flight home, yet the pot was still punched off the board. Not by as far -- but all leads broken is still all leads broken. I suspect that any sort of collar that rides close to the board to limit travel in that direction will either rub or have too much play to be safe -- but I could be wrong. At this point what I see is a choice between some rotational slop between shaft and pot (which messes up the educational value of the thing), the current setup (which leaves it fragile, but possibly manageably so), some sort of a flex coupling or spring (assuming I can figure out how to do that well and cheaply), or some sort of a spring-loaded means of holding the shaft-pot joint to be snug in rotation, but still low friction to axial motion. If this was "checked" luggage instead of carry-on, then suspect the bag was x-rayed, and the inspector removed the items to play with it and broke it. then replaced it in your luggage. Paul It was a box, and I would have seen that it was re-taped. I don't think I have any excuses the it was a combination of my design, my packing, and a normal level of knocking around from the airline. -- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground? Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software http://www.wescottdesign.com |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Mounting Conundrum, Revisited
"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
... This is a pretty neat training gizmo for control loops. Sort of like the ball balancer, but better. I considered doing a ball balancer, but I figured this would cost less. For that matter, I really wanted to do an inverted pendulum -- but I couldn't see how to do the mechanism cheaply. The wheel collars stayed tight on the flight home, yet the pot was still punched off the board. Not by as far -- but all leads broken is still all leads broken. I suspect that any sort of collar that rides close to the board to limit travel in that direction will either rub or have too much play to be safe -- but I could be wrong. At this point what I see is a choice between some rotational slop between shaft and pot (which messes up the educational value of the thing), the current setup (which leaves it fragile, but possibly manageably so), some sort of a flex coupling or spring (assuming I can figure out how to do that well and cheaply), or some sort of a spring-loaded means of holding the shaft-pot joint to be snug in rotation, but still low friction to axial motion. -- Tim Wescott Control system and signal processing consulting www.wescottdesign.com http://www.dynapar.com/uploadedFiles...nting%20WP.pdf #3, Direct mount with tether. The tether might be the connecting wires. jsw |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Mounting Conundrum, Revisited
On Tuesday, November 13, 2012 4:47:14 PM UTC-5, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 13:14:02 -0800, rangerssuck wrote: On Tuesday, November 13, 2012 2:28:05 PM UTC-5, Tim Wescott wrote: OK, here it is again with more pictures and explanations. Sorry for starting a new thread, but it seemed reasonable given that I did such a poor job of getting the design problem stated in the last one. I'm building a gizmo, which, for lack of a better name I'm calling a "fan trainer". It consists of an arm about 30" long with a small DC motor and propeller on one end, and a pivot and counterweight on the other. The thing is pivoted on a frame which has a controller circuit board. The controller monitors the motor current and the arm position, and drives the motor voltage. This isn't an executive toy that you sit back and watch move (that would get old very fast). Rather, it is a platform to provide a series of exercises for a student to tune the control system, and to do it in a way that you can see and feel it working. I'd use it in conjunction with seminars, and perhaps make it part of a "seminar at home" package. So my larger problem is to manufacture this in small quantities (20 to 100 a year), and sell them at a reasonable price without losing my ass.. "Not losing my ass" translates to a total bill-of-materials cost of $50 or so, and if I could get it way lower then I'd just sell it for less and increase my potential market. My immediate problem is that the potentiometer that senses the arm position is getting punched off of the board in shipping. The potentiometer has a hole, through which you pass a 4mm shaft with a flat milled into it. If you mill the flat so that you can easily pass the shaft through the pot then the control is not smooth -- the arm hunts across the rotational slop caused by the shaft rotating within the pot.. If you shim the flat for a snug fit (very very light press fit?) then when you chuck the thing into a box and fly with it in checked baggage, the pot gets punched off of the board, apparently by getting hit from behind. The shaft on which the arm pivots is restrained in the housing by a couple of model airplane wheel collars. On the trip out, both of these collars, and the arm, loosened on the shaft, and the pot was punched out. On the return trip I loosened the arm and tied it to the back plate of the frame -- the wheel collars were fine then, but the pot was still punched out. I really like that pot: it costs less than $2.00 for onsies (less, obviously, in higher quantities), it has undetectably small friction, it isn't noisy, and because it's board mounted it saves me from needing a bunch of brackets which would just drive up my BOM cost. So any alternative that involves not using the pot has to compete with that price, and being practical to do in small quantities in an environment where labor is not free. So I'm thinking at this point that perhaps I just need to be happy with what I have, and to warn people not to drop the thing off of a table or to ship it without disassembling it first. But it would be nice if there was a way to make it more robust (by isolating the pot from the shaft somehow). The best suggestion I got from the other thread, assuming that I can do it cheaply, is to put a slit in the end of the shaft, so I basically have a D-shaped shaft with some spring. I would like that idea a lot if I knew what it would cost to have a batch of 20 shafts made with the slit, vs. without, and if that cost wasn't much greater than just making the shafts. The second-best suggestion is to use a flat coupling. This would require (essentially) two shafts and the coupling, which is clearly going to drive up the BOM cost, but I'm still toying with how to make it cheap. Several people suggested reinforcing the mounting of the pot to the board: it probably doesn't show in the pictures, but it is clear from the construction of the thing that this would just result in _part_ of the now-destroyed pot remaining on the board. Here's a general arrangement shot: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5l...0MxMEM3b1l2c0k And the thing in action: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5lS...0MxMEM3b1l2c0k And, finally, a close-up of the potentiometer in question: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5l...TBCc3VzWDYxZ0E -- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground? Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software http://www.wescottdesign.com I think you ought to focus on *why* the wheel collars loosened. I am assuming that had they stayed secure on the shaft that the pot would have survived. If that is a correct assumption, how about a dimple in the shaft for the setscrew, or perhaps some loctite? This is a pretty neat training gizmo for control loops. Sort of like the ball balancer, but better. I considered doing a ball balancer, but I figured this would cost less. For that matter, I really wanted to do an inverted pendulum -- but I couldn't see how to do the mechanism cheaply. The wheel collars stayed tight on the flight home, yet the pot was still punched off the board. Not by as far -- but all leads broken is still all leads broken. I suspect that any sort of collar that rides close to the board to limit travel in that direction will either rub or have too much play to be safe -- but I could be wrong. At this point what I see is a choice between some rotational slop between shaft and pot (which messes up the educational value of the thing), the current setup (which leaves it fragile, but possibly manageably so), some sort of a flex coupling or spring (assuming I can figure out how to do that well and cheaply), or some sort of a spring-loaded means of holding the shaft-pot joint to be snug in rotation, but still low friction to axial motion. -- Tim Wescott Control system and signal processing consulting www.wescottdesign.com How about mounting the pot semi-ridgedly on kinked or s-bent pieces of bus wire? Pretty much free (except for 30 seconds or so of extra assembly) and easily repairable. If the pot really has very low rotational friction, the wires shouldn't bed in normal usage, but will give enough to prevent damage.. You could even try some springy piano wire. |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Mounting Conundrum, Revisited
On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 17:55:15 -0500, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Tim Wescott" wrote in message ... This is a pretty neat training gizmo for control loops. Sort of like the ball balancer, but better. I considered doing a ball balancer, but I figured this would cost less. For that matter, I really wanted to do an inverted pendulum -- but I couldn't see how to do the mechanism cheaply. The wheel collars stayed tight on the flight home, yet the pot was still punched off the board. Not by as far -- but all leads broken is still all leads broken. I suspect that any sort of collar that rides close to the board to limit travel in that direction will either rub or have too much play to be safe -- but I could be wrong. At this point what I see is a choice between some rotational slop between shaft and pot (which messes up the educational value of the thing), the current setup (which leaves it fragile, but possibly manageably so), some sort of a flex coupling or spring (assuming I can figure out how to do that well and cheaply), or some sort of a spring-loaded means of holding the shaft-pot joint to be snug in rotation, but still low friction to axial motion. -- Tim Wescott Control system and signal processing consulting www.wescottdesign.com http://www.dynapar.com/uploadedFiles.../White_Papers/ Encoder%20Mounting%20WP.pdf #3, Direct mount with tether. The tether might be the connecting wires. jsw If I use this pot then my situation is just about backwards from their assumptions: the pot _doesn't_ have bearings, and by construction its designed to be soldered onto the board. -- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground? Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software http://www.wescottdesign.com |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Mounting Conundrum, Revisited
On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 15:02:26 -0800, rangerssuck wrote:
On Tuesday, November 13, 2012 4:47:14 PM UTC-5, Tim Wescott wrote: On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 13:14:02 -0800, rangerssuck wrote: On Tuesday, November 13, 2012 2:28:05 PM UTC-5, Tim Wescott wrote: OK, here it is again with more pictures and explanations. Sorry for starting a new thread, but it seemed reasonable given that I did such a poor job of getting the design problem stated in the last one. I'm building a gizmo, which, for lack of a better name I'm calling a "fan trainer". It consists of an arm about 30" long with a small DC motor and propeller on one end, and a pivot and counterweight on the other. The thing is pivoted on a frame which has a controller circuit board. The controller monitors the motor current and the arm position, and drives the motor voltage. This isn't an executive toy that you sit back and watch move (that would get old very fast). Rather, it is a platform to provide a series of exercises for a student to tune the control system, and to do it in a way that you can see and feel it working. I'd use it in conjunction with seminars, and perhaps make it part of a "seminar at home" package. So my larger problem is to manufacture this in small quantities (20 to 100 a year), and sell them at a reasonable price without losing my ass. "Not losing my ass" translates to a total bill-of-materials cost of $50 or so, and if I could get it way lower then I'd just sell it for less and increase my potential market. My immediate problem is that the potentiometer that senses the arm position is getting punched off of the board in shipping. The potentiometer has a hole, through which you pass a 4mm shaft with a flat milled into it. If you mill the flat so that you can easily pass the shaft through the pot then the control is not smooth -- the arm hunts across the rotational slop caused by the shaft rotating within the pot. If you shim the flat for a snug fit (very very light press fit?) then when you chuck the thing into a box and fly with it in checked baggage, the pot gets punched off of the board, apparently by getting hit from behind. The shaft on which the arm pivots is restrained in the housing by a couple of model airplane wheel collars. On the trip out, both of these collars, and the arm, loosened on the shaft, and the pot was punched out. On the return trip I loosened the arm and tied it to the back plate of the frame -- the wheel collars were fine then, but the pot was still punched out. I really like that pot: it costs less than $2.00 for onsies (less, obviously, in higher quantities), it has undetectably small friction, it isn't noisy, and because it's board mounted it saves me from needing a bunch of brackets which would just drive up my BOM cost. So any alternative that involves not using the pot has to compete with that price, and being practical to do in small quantities in an environment where labor is not free. So I'm thinking at this point that perhaps I just need to be happy with what I have, and to warn people not to drop the thing off of a table or to ship it without disassembling it first. But it would be nice if there was a way to make it more robust (by isolating the pot from the shaft somehow). The best suggestion I got from the other thread, assuming that I can do it cheaply, is to put a slit in the end of the shaft, so I basically have a D-shaped shaft with some spring. I would like that idea a lot if I knew what it would cost to have a batch of 20 shafts made with the slit, vs. without, and if that cost wasn't much greater than just making the shafts. The second-best suggestion is to use a flat coupling. This would require (essentially) two shafts and the coupling, which is clearly going to drive up the BOM cost, but I'm still toying with how to make it cheap. Several people suggested reinforcing the mounting of the pot to the board: it probably doesn't show in the pictures, but it is clear from the construction of the thing that this would just result in _part_ of the now-destroyed pot remaining on the board. Here's a general arrangement shot: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5l...0MxMEM3b1l2c0k And the thing in action: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5lS...0MxMEM3b1l2c0k And, finally, a close-up of the potentiometer in question: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5l...TBCc3VzWDYxZ0E -- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground? Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software http://www.wescottdesign.com I think you ought to focus on *why* the wheel collars loosened. I am assuming that had they stayed secure on the shaft that the pot would have survived. If that is a correct assumption, how about a dimple in the shaft for the setscrew, or perhaps some loctite? This is a pretty neat training gizmo for control loops. Sort of like the ball balancer, but better. I considered doing a ball balancer, but I figured this would cost less. For that matter, I really wanted to do an inverted pendulum -- but I couldn't see how to do the mechanism cheaply. The wheel collars stayed tight on the flight home, yet the pot was still punched off the board. Not by as far -- but all leads broken is still all leads broken. I suspect that any sort of collar that rides close to the board to limit travel in that direction will either rub or have too much play to be safe -- but I could be wrong. At this point what I see is a choice between some rotational slop between shaft and pot (which messes up the educational value of the thing), the current setup (which leaves it fragile, but possibly manageably so), some sort of a flex coupling or spring (assuming I can figure out how to do that well and cheaply), or some sort of a spring-loaded means of holding the shaft-pot joint to be snug in rotation, but still low friction to axial motion. -- Tim Wescott Control system and signal processing consulting www.wescottdesign.com How about mounting the pot semi-ridgedly on kinked or s-bent pieces of bus wire? Pretty much free (except for 30 seconds or so of extra assembly) and easily repairable. If the pot really has very low rotational friction, the wires shouldn't bed in normal usage, but will give enough to prevent damage. You could even try some springy piano wire. Hmm. Good thought, but it'd take a lot more than 30 seconds. It's a surface-mount part, so mounting it as designed is very quick while mounting it just about any other way isn't so. -- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground? Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software http://www.wescottdesign.com |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Mounting Conundrum, Revisited
On Nov 13, 4:47*pm, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 13:14:02 -0800, rangerssuck wrote: On Tuesday, November 13, 2012 2:28:05 PM UTC-5, Tim Wescott wrote: OK, here it is again with more pictures and explanations. *Sorry for starting a new thread, but it seemed reasonable given that I did such a poor job of getting the design problem stated in the last one. I'm building a gizmo, which, for lack of a better name I'm calling a "fan trainer". *It consists of an arm about 30" long with a small DC motor and propeller on one end, and a pivot and counterweight on the other. *The thing is pivoted on a frame which has a controller circuit board. *The controller monitors the motor current and the arm position, and drives the motor voltage. This isn't an executive toy that you sit back and watch move (that would get old very fast). *Rather, it is a platform to provide a series of exercises for a student to tune the control system, and to do it in a way that you can see and feel it working. *I'd use it in conjunction with seminars, and perhaps make it part of a "seminar at home" package. So my larger problem is to manufacture this in small quantities (20 to 100 a year), and sell them at a reasonable price without losing my ass.. "Not losing my ass" translates to a total bill-of-materials cost of $50 or so, and if I could get it way lower then I'd just sell it for less and increase my potential market. My immediate problem is that the potentiometer that senses the arm position is getting punched off of the board in shipping. *The potentiometer has a hole, through which you pass a 4mm shaft with a flat milled into it. *If you mill the flat so that you can easily pass the shaft through the pot then the control is not smooth -- the arm hunts across the rotational slop caused by the shaft rotating within the pot.. If you shim the flat for a snug fit (very very light press fit?) then when you chuck the thing into a box and fly with it in checked baggage, the pot gets punched off of the board, apparently by getting hit from behind. The shaft on which the arm pivots is restrained in the housing by a couple of model airplane wheel collars. *On the trip out, both of these collars, and the arm, loosened on the shaft, and the pot was punched out. *On the return trip I loosened the arm and tied it to the back plate of the frame -- the wheel collars were fine then, but the pot was still punched out. I really like that pot: it costs less than $2.00 for onsies (less, obviously, in higher quantities), it has undetectably small friction, it isn't noisy, and because it's board mounted it saves me from needing a bunch of brackets which would just drive up my BOM cost. *So any alternative that involves not using the pot has to compete with that price, and being practical to do in small quantities in an environment where labor is not free. So I'm thinking at this point that perhaps I just need to be happy with what I have, and to warn people not to drop the thing off of a table or to ship it without disassembling it first. *But it would be nice if there was a way to make it more robust (by isolating the pot from the shaft somehow). The best suggestion I got from the other thread, assuming that I can do it cheaply, is to put a slit in the end of the shaft, so I basically have a D-shaped shaft with some spring. *I would like that idea a lot if I knew what it would cost to have a batch of 20 shafts made with the slit, vs. without, and if that cost wasn't much greater than just making the shafts. The second-best suggestion is to use a flat coupling. *This would require (essentially) two shafts and the coupling, which is clearly going to drive up the BOM cost, but I'm still toying with how to make it cheap. Several people suggested reinforcing the mounting of the pot to the board: it probably doesn't show in the pictures, but it is clear from the construction of the thing that this would just result in _part_ of the now-destroyed pot remaining on the board. Here's a general arrangement shot: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5l...0MxMEM3b1l2c0k And the thing in action: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5lS...0MxMEM3b1l2c0k And, finally, a close-up of the potentiometer in question: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5l...TBCc3VzWDYxZ0E -- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground? Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software http://www.wescottdesign.com I think you ought to focus on *why* the wheel collars loosened. I am assuming that had they stayed secure on the shaft that the pot would have survived. If that is a correct assumption, how about a dimple in the shaft for the setscrew, or perhaps some loctite? This is a pretty neat training gizmo for control loops. Sort of like the ball balancer, but better. I considered doing a ball balancer, but I figured this would cost less. For that matter, I really wanted to do an inverted pendulum -- but I couldn't see how to do the mechanism cheaply. The wheel collars stayed tight on the flight home, yet the pot was still punched off the board. *Not by as far -- but all leads broken is still all leads broken. *I suspect that any sort of collar that rides close to the board to limit travel in that direction will either rub or have too much play to be safe -- but I could be wrong. At this point what I see is a choice between some rotational slop between shaft and pot (which messes up the educational value of the thing), the current setup (which leaves it fragile, but possibly manageably so), some sort of a flex coupling or spring (assuming I can figure out how to do that well and cheaply), or some sort of a spring-loaded means of holding the shaft-pot joint to be snug in rotation, but still low friction to axial motion. -- Tim Wescott Control system and signal processing consultingwww.wescottdesign.com- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - How about a thermal thing for control loop education? TEC, air fin heatsink, heater as variable load, maybe a couple of sensors. It'd be nice to have variable thermal 'lengths' in the system. (More than $50 though I'd guess.) George H. |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Mounting Conundrum, Revisited
On 11/13/2012 1:47 PM, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 13:14:02 -0800, rangerssuck wrote: On Tuesday, November 13, 2012 2:28:05 PM UTC-5, Tim Wescott wrote: OK, here it is again with more pictures and explanations. Sorry for starting a new thread, but it seemed reasonable given that I did such a poor job of getting the design problem stated in the last one. I'm building a gizmo, which, for lack of a better name I'm calling a "fan trainer". It consists of an arm about 30" long with a small DC motor and propeller on one end, and a pivot and counterweight on the other. The thing is pivoted on a frame which has a controller circuit board. The controller monitors the motor current and the arm position, and drives the motor voltage. This isn't an executive toy that you sit back and watch move (that would get old very fast). Rather, it is a platform to provide a series of exercises for a student to tune the control system, and to do it in a way that you can see and feel it working. I'd use it in conjunction with seminars, and perhaps make it part of a "seminar at home" package. So my larger problem is to manufacture this in small quantities (20 to 100 a year), and sell them at a reasonable price without losing my ass. "Not losing my ass" translates to a total bill-of-materials cost of $50 or so, and if I could get it way lower then I'd just sell it for less and increase my potential market. My immediate problem is that the potentiometer that senses the arm position is getting punched off of the board in shipping. The potentiometer has a hole, through which you pass a 4mm shaft with a flat milled into it. If you mill the flat so that you can easily pass the shaft through the pot then the control is not smooth -- the arm hunts across the rotational slop caused by the shaft rotating within the pot. If you shim the flat for a snug fit (very very light press fit?) then when you chuck the thing into a box and fly with it in checked baggage, the pot gets punched off of the board, apparently by getting hit from behind. The shaft on which the arm pivots is restrained in the housing by a couple of model airplane wheel collars. On the trip out, both of these collars, and the arm, loosened on the shaft, and the pot was punched out. On the return trip I loosened the arm and tied it to the back plate of the frame -- the wheel collars were fine then, but the pot was still punched out. I really like that pot: it costs less than $2.00 for onsies (less, obviously, in higher quantities), it has undetectably small friction, it isn't noisy, and because it's board mounted it saves me from needing a bunch of brackets which would just drive up my BOM cost. So any alternative that involves not using the pot has to compete with that price, and being practical to do in small quantities in an environment where labor is not free. So I'm thinking at this point that perhaps I just need to be happy with what I have, and to warn people not to drop the thing off of a table or to ship it without disassembling it first. But it would be nice if there was a way to make it more robust (by isolating the pot from the shaft somehow). The best suggestion I got from the other thread, assuming that I can do it cheaply, is to put a slit in the end of the shaft, so I basically have a D-shaped shaft with some spring. I would like that idea a lot if I knew what it would cost to have a batch of 20 shafts made with the slit, vs. without, and if that cost wasn't much greater than just making the shafts. The second-best suggestion is to use a flat coupling. This would require (essentially) two shafts and the coupling, which is clearly going to drive up the BOM cost, but I'm still toying with how to make it cheap. Several people suggested reinforcing the mounting of the pot to the board: it probably doesn't show in the pictures, but it is clear from the construction of the thing that this would just result in _part_ of the now-destroyed pot remaining on the board. Here's a general arrangement shot: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5l...0MxMEM3b1l2c0k And the thing in action: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5lS...0MxMEM3b1l2c0k And, finally, a close-up of the potentiometer in question: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5l...TBCc3VzWDYxZ0E -- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground? Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits& Software http://www.wescottdesign.com I think you ought to focus on *why* the wheel collars loosened. I am assuming that had they stayed secure on the shaft that the pot would have survived. If that is a correct assumption, how about a dimple in the shaft for the setscrew, or perhaps some loctite? This is a pretty neat training gizmo for control loops. Sort of like the ball balancer, but better. I considered doing a ball balancer, but I figured this would cost less. For that matter, I really wanted to do an inverted pendulum -- but I couldn't see how to do the mechanism cheaply. The wheel collars stayed tight on the flight home, yet the pot was still punched off the board. Not by as far -- but all leads broken is still all leads broken. I suspect that any sort of collar that rides close to the board to limit travel in that direction will either rub or have too much play to be safe -- but I could be wrong. At this point what I see is a choice between some rotational slop between shaft and pot (which messes up the educational value of the thing), the current setup (which leaves it fragile, but possibly manageably so), some sort of a flex coupling or spring (assuming I can figure out how to do that well and cheaply), or some sort of a spring-loaded means of holding the shaft-pot joint to be snug in rotation, but still low friction to axial motion. How about this? http://www.chinajiaho.com/6-in-1-diy...kit_p1763.html Start with the configuration that rotates around the vertical pole. put two solar cells back to back. It should track a focused light source around the circle. If the dead zone is too big, put the cells in series in a bridge and the motor in a full-bridge and chop the power into a fan voltage that nulls the input bridge. Costs you $8 for the toy and the one you stole the other solar cell from. Free shipping. If you can stand the dead zone, you have a very tight visual coupling between the sensor and the positioning mechanism. And you don't need batteries or electronics or nothin'. It just works. There will be balance issues. Lots of other possibilities with all the kit parts. Use the car configuration for your inverted pendulum. The pot thing is a loser until you use one with a bearing that can support the weight and the abuse of shipping and students. I'd try to put the fan on the bottom, out of harm's way and use something light, like a soda straw out the top for an indicator. Are we having fun yet? |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Mounting Conundrum, Revisited
On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 15:29:41 -0800, George Herold wrote:
How about a thermal thing for control loop education? TEC, air fin heatsink, heater as variable load, maybe a couple of sensors. It'd be nice to have variable thermal 'lengths' in the system. (More than $50 though I'd guess.) George H. I'm thinking of doing something like that next. There's not much visual interest there (unless I can do something cool with liquid crystal thermometers), but I think I could get it below $50 and it'd be of interest to someone who happens to be living and breathing thermal control when they set out to learn the stuff. -- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground? Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software http://www.wescottdesign.com |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Mounting Conundrum, Revisited
On Tuesday, November 13, 2012 6:06:29 PM UTC-5, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 15:02:26 -0800, rangerssuck wrote: [trimmed] How about mounting the pot semi-ridgedly on kinked or s-bent pieces of bus wire? Pretty much free (except for 30 seconds or so of extra assembly) and easily repairable. If the pot really has very low rotational friction, the wires shouldn't bed in normal usage, but will give enough to prevent damage. You could even try some springy piano wire. Hmm. Good thought, but it'd take a lot more than 30 seconds. It's a surface-mount part, so mounting it as designed is very quick while mounting it just about any other way isn't so. If you mount the pot on a separate little board, it would be easy. If you're making printed circuit boards, just add the little pot board to the layout with either a score line or a tab route separating them. If you're going to breadboard this (as in your photos), just make up a bunch of little boards that hold nothing but the pot and four mounting wires. IIRC, you were talking about small (20-100/year) quantities. Even if it took an extra three minutes per assembly (which it won't), you're only talking 1 - 5 hours PER YEAR. I personally have probably a half hour into this project already, between reading and writing. Just sayin' |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Mounting Conundrum, Revisited
On Nov 13, 7:26*pm, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 15:29:41 -0800, George Herold wrote: How about a thermal thing for control loop education? TEC, air fin heatsink, heater as variable load, maybe a couple of sensors. *It'd be nice to have variable thermal 'lengths' in the system. (More than $50 though I'd guess.) George H. I'm thinking of doing something like that next. *There's not much visual interest there (unless I can do something cool with liquid crystal thermometers), but I think I could get it below $50 and it'd be of interest to someone who happens to be living and breathing thermal control when they set out to learn the stuff. Yeah, I have no 'showy' thermal thing to control. But that's not so important from my perspective. I’d be more interested in the control details, different control loops, different source detector distances (materials) So that thermal diffusion effects could be seen. It would be really nice to have different cooling sources. (TEC and air fins and then a heater and some sort of cryogen. But the cryogen part looks more expensive.. (CFC’s are out), or dangerous, (boiling water) Do you mind if I ask whom you think you might sell this to? Add on labs for your book? Engineering schools? Does the $50 include all the electronics? (you can always reply in private... gherold@teachspin (dot) com) George H. -- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground? Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Softwarehttp://www.wescottdesign.com |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Mounting Conundrum, Revisited
On 2012-11-13, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 13:14:02 -0800, rangerssuck wrote: On Tuesday, November 13, 2012 2:28:05 PM UTC-5, Tim Wescott wrote: [ ... ] Several people suggested reinforcing the mounting of the pot to the board: it probably doesn't show in the pictures, but it is clear from the construction of the thing that this would just result in _part_ of the now-destroyed pot remaining on the board. [ ... ] The wheel collars stayed tight on the flight home, yet the pot was still punched off the board. Not by as far -- but all leads broken is still all leads broken. I suspect that any sort of collar that rides close to the board to limit travel in that direction will either rub or have too much play to be safe -- but I could be wrong. Hmm ... one possibility which I have not yet seen mentioned is that it is not actually the lever's mass which is the problem, but instead the length and spring constant of the leads, and the mass of the pot, happening to resonate at a frequency which matches that of vibration present in the aircraft. Just for the fun of it, try a second pot on the board with no lever attached during transist. Good Luck, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Mounting Conundrum, Revisited
On Thu, 15 Nov 2012 00:48:41 +0000, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2012-11-13, Tim Wescott wrote: On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 13:14:02 -0800, rangerssuck wrote: On Tuesday, November 13, 2012 2:28:05 PM UTC-5, Tim Wescott wrote: [ ... ] Several people suggested reinforcing the mounting of the pot to the board: it probably doesn't show in the pictures, but it is clear from the construction of the thing that this would just result in _part_ of the now-destroyed pot remaining on the board. [ ... ] The wheel collars stayed tight on the flight home, yet the pot was still punched off the board. Not by as far -- but all leads broken is still all leads broken. I suspect that any sort of collar that rides close to the board to limit travel in that direction will either rub or have too much play to be safe -- but I could be wrong. Hmm ... one possibility which I have not yet seen mentioned is that it is not actually the lever's mass which is the problem, but instead the length and spring constant of the leads, and the mass of the pot, happening to resonate at a frequency which matches that of vibration present in the aircraft. Just for the fun of it, try a second pot on the board with no lever attached during transist. The pot is plastic, probably weighs less than a gram, and it's surface mount, so the leads are short and stiff. I think there'd be other things falling off the board in vibration severe enough to cause problems with the pot. -- My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have found common ground? Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software http://www.wescottdesign.com |
#16
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Mounting Conundrum, Revisited
Hi Tim,
Interesting concept :-) Just an idea. Mount the boom in the center of a thin, broad flexible strip of spring steel. Make a quadrant with a line of perforations on the edge and use a pair of slot photo detectors, a bit like the slotted wheel in a ball mouse to detect the movement. This would do away with the pot and a cheap mouse IC could do the rest. You could even use flexible pcb on the strip of spring steel to provide power to the fan motor. -- Best Regards: Baron. |
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