I've got the "hub" part of a cast iron drain pipe accessible in a floor
drain, and need to notch the lip, for the outlet of one of those
li'l-giant-type centrifugal pumps that I want to drop in. The side outlet
of the pump sticks out past the diameter of the pump, ergo the need for a
notch, since it's a tight cylindrical fit. The notch needs to be about 1-2"
long, mebbe 3/4" wide. Best way to cut?

Regular metal cutting (sawzall), I think, are almost out of the question, as
I've tried this on other CI drain pipe -- pert near impossible, without one
of those coke-bottle cutting grit blades, which I didn't have.. I had to
rent one of those "splitters", and even that was difficult.

Would an abrasive sawzall blade do the job efficiently? Are there diff.
types of sawzall abrasive blades?
Woud I be better off grinding it out, with a 4.5" grinder, I spose.

O/A seems to be a poor method, according to
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...t-iron-195329/

The reason being left-over graphite? Somewhere in he
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fue...ng_and_cutting

Plasma, air-arc seem to be OK, but, no gots.

Idears?
--
EA

Existential Angst wrote:

I've got the "hub" part of a cast iron drain pipe accessible in a floor
drain, and need to notch the lip, for the outlet of one of those
li'l-giant-type centrifugal pumps that I want to drop in. The side outlet
of the pump sticks out past the diameter of the pump, ergo the need for a
notch, since it's a tight cylindrical fit. The notch needs to be about 1-2"
long, mebbe 3/4" wide. Best way to cut?

Regular metal cutting (sawzall), I think, are almost out of the question, as
I've tried this on other CI drain pipe -- pert near impossible, without one
of those coke-bottle cutting grit blades, which I didn't have.. I had to
rent one of those "splitters", and even that was difficult.

Would an abrasive sawzall blade do the job efficiently? Are there diff.
types of sawzall abrasive blades?
Woud I be better off grinding it out, with a 4.5" grinder, I spose.

O/A seems to be a poor method, according to
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...t-iron-195329/

The reason being left-over graphite? Somewhere in he
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fue...ng_and_cutting

Plasma, air-arc seem to be OK, but, no gots.

Idears?

drilling holes and using a chisel to cut works on cast iron. It's a great
way to get one final use out of ****ted up drill bits too.

On Nov 6, 10:21*am, "Existential Angst" wrote:
I've got the "hub" part of a cast iron drain pipe accessible in a floor
drain, and need to notch the lip, for the outlet of one of those
li'l-giant-type centrifugal pumps that I want to drop in. *The side outlet
of the pump sticks out past the diameter of the pump, ergo the need for a
notch, since it's a tight cylindrical fit. *The notch needs to be about 1-2"
long, mebbe 3/4" wide. *Best way to cut?

Regular metal cutting (sawzall), I think, are almost out of the question, as
I've tried this on other CI drain pipe -- pert near impossible, without one
of those coke-bottle cutting grit blades, which I didn't have.. *I had to
rent one of those "splitters", and even that was difficult.

Would an abrasive sawzall blade do the job efficiently? *Are there diff..
types of sawzall abrasive blades?
Woud I be better off grinding it out, with a 4.5" grinder, I spose.

O/A seems to be a poor method, according tohttp://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/fabrication-cnc-laser-waterjet-p...

The reason being left-over graphite? *Somewhere in hehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fue...ng_and_cutting

Plasma, air-arc seem to be OK, but, no gots.

Idears?
--
EA

Thin-wall castings tend to have a lot of chill, making them hard to
drill/saw. You could try drilling small holes around the notch
periphery, then using an angle grinder and a thin cutting wheel to
slice the chunk out. If you can't drill, then the angle grinder is
about it. I had some wheels about .040" called Razorblades, really
cut steel fast. I'd be a little reluctant to do any hammering or
chiseling on drain pipe. Won't be a job you'll get done in 10
minutes, that's for sure.

Stan

"Stanley Schaefer" wrote in message
...
On Nov 6, 10:21 am, "Existential Angst" wrote:
I've got the "hub" part of a cast iron drain pipe accessible in a floor
drain, and need to notch the lip, for the outlet of one of those
li'l-giant-type centrifugal pumps that I want to drop in. The side outlet
of the pump sticks out past the diameter of the pump, ergo the need for a
notch, since it's a tight cylindrical fit. The notch needs to be about
1-2"
long, mebbe 3/4" wide. Best way to cut?

Regular metal cutting (sawzall), I think, are almost out of the question,
as
I've tried this on other CI drain pipe -- pert near impossible, without
one
of those coke-bottle cutting grit blades, which I didn't have.. I had to
rent one of those "splitters", and even that was difficult.

Would an abrasive sawzall blade do the job efficiently? Are there diff.
types of sawzall abrasive blades?
Woud I be better off grinding it out, with a 4.5" grinder, I spose.

O/A seems to be a poor method, according
tohttp://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/fabrication-cnc-laser-waterjet-p...

The reason being left-over graphite? Somewhere in
hehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fue...ng_and_cutting

Plasma, air-arc seem to be OK, but, no gots.

Idears?
--
EA

Thin-wall castings tend to have a lot of chill, making them hard to
drill/saw. You could try drilling small holes around the notch
periphery, then using an angle grinder and a thin cutting wheel to
slice the chunk out. If you can't drill, then the angle grinder is
about it. I had some wheels about .040" called Razorblades, really
cut steel fast. I'd be a little reluctant to do any hammering or
chiseling on drain pipe. Won't be a job you'll get done in 10
minutes, that's for sure.
================================================== =

F'sure -- dat ****ty little notch is going to be enormous effort, for the
job.
I have one or two of those thin 4.5" wheels, a sample.... that's a good
idea.
I'll get one of those abrasive-grit sawzall blades, to try, and to just have
around.

Re the drilling: Drilling is no picnic either, even for new drills. And
this would be drilling at an angle, even worser.
--
EA



Stan

Existential Angst wrote:
I've got the "hub" part of a cast iron drain pipe accessible in a floor
drain, and need to notch the lip, for the outlet of one of those
li'l-giant-type centrifugal pumps that I want to drop in. The side outlet
of the pump sticks out past the diameter of the pump, ergo the need for a
notch, since it's a tight cylindrical fit. The notch needs to be about 1-2"
long, mebbe 3/4" wide. Best way to cut?

Regular metal cutting (sawzall), I think, are almost out of the question, as
I've tried this on other CI drain pipe -- pert near impossible, without one
of those coke-bottle cutting grit blades, which I didn't have.. I had to
rent one of those "splitters", and even that was difficult.

Would an abrasive sawzall blade do the job efficiently? Are there diff.
types of sawzall abrasive blades?
Woud I be better off grinding it out, with a 4.5" grinder, I spose.

O/A seems to be a poor method, according to
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...t-iron-195329/

The reason being left-over graphite? Somewhere in he
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fue...ng_and_cutting

Plasma, air-arc seem to be OK, but, no gots.

Idears?

Grab an extended reach cut off tool and have at it.
Something like this :
http://www.eastwood.com/4-in-air-cut...d-reverse.html



--
Steve W.

On Tue, 6 Nov 2012 12:21:03 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


I've got the "hub" part of a cast iron drain pipe accessible in a floor
drain, and need to notch the lip, for the outlet of one of those
li'l-giant-type centrifugal pumps that I want to drop in. The side outlet
of the pump sticks out past the diameter of the pump, ergo the need for a
notch, since it's a tight cylindrical fit. The notch needs to be about 1-2"
long, mebbe 3/4" wide. Best way to cut?

Regular metal cutting (sawzall), I think, are almost out of the question, as
I've tried this on other CI drain pipe -- pert near impossible, without one
of those coke-bottle cutting grit blades, which I didn't have.. I had to
rent one of those "splitters", and even that was difficult.

Would an abrasive sawzall blade do the job efficiently? Are there diff.
types of sawzall abrasive blades?
Woud I be better off grinding it out, with a 4.5" grinder, I spose.

O/A seems to be a poor method, according to
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...t-iron-195329/

The reason being left-over graphite? Somewhere in he
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fue...ng_and_cutting

Plasma, air-arc seem to be OK, but, no gots.

Idears?

Hardly a major mystery - a 1 mm cut-off wheel and a hand held grinder.
--
Cheers,
John B.

On 11/6/2012 12:21 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
I've got the "hub" part of a cast iron drain pipe accessible in a floor
drain, and need to notch the lip, for the outlet of one of those
li'l-giant-type centrifugal pumps that I want to drop in. The side outlet
of the pump sticks out past the diameter of the pump, ergo the need for a
notch, since it's a tight cylindrical fit. The notch needs to be about 1-2"
long, mebbe 3/4" wide. Best way to cut?

Regular metal cutting (sawzall), I think, are almost out of the question, as
I've tried this on other CI drain pipe -- pert near impossible, without one
of those coke-bottle cutting grit blades, which I didn't have.. I had to
rent one of those "splitters", and even that was difficult.

Would an abrasive sawzall blade do the job efficiently? Are there diff.
types of sawzall abrasive blades?
Woud I be better off grinding it out, with a 4.5" grinder, I spose.

O/A seems to be a poor method, according to
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...t-iron-195329/

The reason being left-over graphite? Somewhere in he
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fue...ng_and_cutting

Plasma, air-arc seem to be OK, but, no gots.

Idears?


A die grinder and a Carbide burr. I HATE the shards it produces, wear
protection and have a big magnet close by to catch some of them. BUT,
you'll be don in two minutes.

I have removed cast iron toilet flanges by cutting slots with a 4-1/2"
grinder & breaking the iron between them. Is your "... 1-2" long, mebbe
3/4" wide ..." slot oriented horizontally or vertically? A 4-1/2"
grinder wouldn't do a 2" vertical cut.

Bob