In article ,
7 email_at_www_at_enemygadgets_dot_com@enemygadgets .com writes:
I got a cast iron drain pipe 3" diameter thats taking sink water
and it appears out of the wall with a 90 degree
bend and goes straight down about 3 meters
and into concrete.

Someone opened the 90 degree bend cover
and tried to unblock a blockage further down.
But they seem to have used what looks like a 15mm
copper pipe and left it stuck inside!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

An inspection camera locates it about 1 meter below the
access hole.

doh!!

How does one get this out?

Its cost 150 quid so far for someone to come clear it
from what I thought was a normal blockage only
to be told about this major blunder and that the job can't
be done until its taken out.

If the end of the 15mm copper isn't jammed against the side
of the cast iron, could you fit a push-fit 15mm coupler
to another length, lower it onto the piece in there and
push the coupler on, and then pull the two out?

Probably need the camera in there too, to get the two lined
up, and/or some other type of guide to align them.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article ,
7 email_at_www_at_enemygadgets_dot_com@enemygadgets .com writes:
I got a cast iron drain pipe 3" diameter thats taking sink water
and it appears out of the wall with a 90 degree
bend and goes straight down about 3 meters
and into concrete.

Someone opened the 90 degree bend cover
and tried to unblock a blockage further down.
But they seem to have used what looks like a 15mm
copper pipe and left it stuck inside!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

An inspection camera locates it about 1 meter below the
access hole.

doh!!

How does one get this out?

Its cost 150 quid so far for someone to come clear it
from what I thought was a normal blockage only
to be told about this major blunder and that the job can't
be done until its taken out.

If the end of the 15mm copper isn't jammed against the side
of the cast iron, could you fit a push-fit 15mm coupler
to another length, lower it onto the piece in there and
push the coupler on, and then pull the two out?

Probably need the camera in there too, to get the two lined
up, and/or some other type of guide to align them.


That is a brilliant idea - though I fear that pipe is not
lined up straight to allow the coupler to just slide in
without a struggle. I ordered a 7M USB endoscopic camera
from Ebay for about 30 quid - it needs another look to see
if it can work out.

I thought about taking a long wood and use a band saw
to cut a long taper and push it into the pipe opening
and jam it and then drag both pieces out.

What is needed is some kind of device that can be expanded inside the jammed
pipe. I'm sure such a device exists, but the question is what would you ask
for?
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"7" email_at_www_at_enemygadgets_dot_com@enemygadgets .com wrote in message
...
Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article ,
7 email_at_www_at_enemygadgets_dot_com@enemygadgets .com writes:
I got a cast iron drain pipe 3" diameter thats taking sink water
and it appears out of the wall with a 90 degree
bend and goes straight down about 3 meters
and into concrete.

Someone opened the 90 degree bend cover
and tried to unblock a blockage further down.
But they seem to have used what looks like a 15mm
copper pipe and left it stuck inside!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

An inspection camera locates it about 1 meter below the
access hole.

doh!!

How does one get this out?

Its cost 150 quid so far for someone to come clear it
from what I thought was a normal blockage only
to be told about this major blunder and that the job can't
be done until its taken out.

If the end of the 15mm copper isn't jammed against the side
of the cast iron, could you fit a push-fit 15mm coupler
to another length, lower it onto the piece in there and
push the coupler on, and then pull the two out?

Probably need the camera in there too, to get the two lined
up, and/or some other type of guide to align them.


That is a brilliant idea - though I fear that pipe is not
lined up straight to allow the coupler to just slide in
without a struggle. I ordered a 7M USB endoscopic camera
from Ebay for about 30 quid - it needs another look to see
if it can work out.

I thought about taking a long wood and use a band saw
to cut a long taper and push it into the pipe opening
and jam it and then drag both pieces out.

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
7 email_at_www_at_enemygadgets_dot_com@enemygadgets .com writes:
I got a cast iron drain pipe 3" diameter thats taking sink water
and it appears out of the wall with a 90 degree
bend and goes straight down about 3 meters
and into concrete.

Someone opened the 90 degree bend cover
and tried to unblock a blockage further down.
But they seem to have used what looks like a 15mm
copper pipe and left it stuck inside!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

An inspection camera locates it about 1 meter below the
access hole.

doh!!

How does one get this out?

Its cost 150 quid so far for someone to come clear it
from what I thought was a normal blockage only
to be told about this major blunder and that the job can't
be done until its taken out.

If the end of the 15mm copper isn't jammed against the side
of the cast iron, could you fit a push-fit 15mm coupler
to another length, lower it onto the piece in there and
push the coupler on, and then pull the two out?

Probably need the camera in there too, to get the two lined
up, and/or some other type of guide to align them.


Alternatively, angle grinder! Cut a new access hole at the level of (or
even a bit below) the 15mm pipe end and use this access point to manipulate
the stuck section back out through the elbow. I think you can get a
sticky-backed lead patch to repair your new hole.

Tim

In message , Brian Gaff
writes
What is needed is some kind of device that can be expanded inside the jammed
pipe. I'm sure such a device exists, but the question is what would you ask
for?

Something like a Rawlbolt?

I made one for shotgun barrel dent removal but suspect that the OP will
not have the equipment or skills.

--
Tim Lamb

On Sat, 6 Oct 2012 17:52:00 +0000 (UTC),
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

In article ,
7 email_at_www_at_enemygadgets_dot_com@enemygadgets .com writes:

How does one get this out?

If the end of the 15mm copper isn't jammed against the side
of the cast iron, could you fit a push-fit 15mm coupler
to another length, lower it onto the piece in there and
push the coupler on, and then pull the two out?

Get a basin wrench such as
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd210/p81935
and fabricate a suitable long handle. Hold the swivel head at 90deg
with some tape and turn it onto the pipe. The grip will help rotate
the pipe and pulling upward at the same time should free it.

Tim Lamb wrote:


What is needed is some kind of device that can be expanded inside the
jammed
pipe. I'm sure such a device exists, but the question is what would you
ask for?

Something like a Rawlbolt?

I made one for shotgun barrel dent removal but suspect that the OP will
not have the equipment or skills.

I got big rawbolts - probably need smaller ones,
but now idea how it could be operated 1 meter
below the access hole.

In message , 7
email_at_www_at_enemygadgets_dot_com@enemygadgets .com writes
Tim Lamb wrote:


What is needed is some kind of device that can be expanded inside the
jammed
pipe. I'm sure such a device exists, but the question is what would you
ask for?

Something like a Rawlbolt?

I made one for shotgun barrel dent removal but suspect that the OP will
not have the equipment or skills.

I got big rawbolts - probably need smaller ones,
but now idea how it could be operated 1 meter
below the access hole.



Can you see the open end of the copper pipe?
Is the pipe jammed in position?

If the answer to both is yes, then how about finding a very course
thread screw that will screw into the end of the pipe and then once it
is as tight as you can manage pull it out? You would need to fix the
screw onto the end of some form of rod, do you know any friendly
welders?


Failing that maybe a long length of something very stiff, [calm down at
the back please, ] form a U shaped bend at one end a couple of inches
long and small enough to just push down the inside of the pipe and push
it all the way through and then pull back so that the bent end hooks
over the far end of the pipe.


--
Bill

In article , Andrew Gabriel
writes
In article ,
7 email_at_www_at_enemygadgets_dot_com@enemygadgets .com
writes:
I got a cast iron drain pipe 3" diameter thats taking sink water
and it appears out of the wall with a 90 degree
bend and goes straight down about 3 meters
and into concrete.

Someone opened the 90 degree bend cover
and tried to unblock a blockage further down.
But they seem to have used what looks like a 15mm
copper pipe and left it stuck inside!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

An inspection camera locates it about 1 meter below the
access hole.

doh!!

How does one get this out?

Its cost 150 quid so far for someone to come clear it
from what I thought was a normal blockage only
to be told about this major blunder and that the job can't
be done until its taken out.

If the end of the 15mm copper isn't jammed against the side
of the cast iron, could you fit a push-fit 15mm coupler
to another length, lower it onto the piece in there and
push the coupler on, and then pull the two out?

Probably need the camera in there too, to get the two lined
up, and/or some other type of guide to align them.


Lasso noose on end of garden cane[1]?

[1] or length of plastic plumbing pipe or conduit or drain rod or elect
cable fishing rod
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

Agreed! I've used similar technique when clearing a plastic shower waste
pipe. It was blocked with hair in an unpredictable position, there were many
bends. All joints were solvent welded. And plumber had unhelpfully mortared
it in two places. I picked a convenient point, cut a Vee using mini hacksaw
to half diameter, lifted out the curved plastic segment. Cleared mass of
hair. Fixed segment back in place using Plumbers Mait and wire twisted.
For your problem....angle grinder cuts cast iron very easily. Don't push too
hard! AND DO NOT LOOSE segment down pipe
If the pipe is in a "public" place, use a setting adhesive to refix segment.
Personally I would choose Solvent based Gripfill

--
OlavM
Overlooking the Clyde where it meets the Sea
Alternatively, angle grinder! Cut a new access hole at the level of (or
even a bit below) the 15mm pipe end and use this access point to
manipulate
the stuck section back out through the elbow. I think you can get a
sticky-backed lead patch to repair your new hole.

On Sun, 07 Oct 2012 14:20:22 +0100, 7
email_at_www_at_enemygadgets_dot_com@enemygadgets .com wrote:

Tim Lamb wrote:


What is needed is some kind of device that can be expanded inside the
jammed
pipe. I'm sure such a device exists, but the question is what would you
ask for?

Something like a Rawlbolt?

I made one for shotgun barrel dent removal but suspect that the OP will
not have the equipment or skills.

I got big rawbolts - probably need smaller ones,
but now idea how it could be operated 1 meter
below the access hole.

Varient of this. Get a long threaded rod, say 5mm. B&Q sell such things. Also get some
nuts and flat washers that will fit it. Place 2 nuts on the very end and locknut them
together tightly. Find a thick rubber* washer that will go on the rod and be an easy fit
inside the 15mm tube (*tap washer or make from pencil eraser etc). Add another washer and
a nut to expand the washer on tightening. To do this at a distance you need to make a long
box spanner. For this you need another tube that will go inside 15mm, and be a few inches
shorter than the rod. Try a piece of 10mm copper tube, or I thik B&Q might sell brass tube
about that size. One end needs to be squashed around a sample nut in a vice to form the
box-spanner end(1). With a bit of luck this will also slightly work-harden the copper tube
end to make it stronger.

If you can then manipulate this inside your stuck tube you should be able to remotely
expand the rubber with the aid of a couple of small mole grips to hold the rod and turn
the 10mm tube.

(1) Alternatively you might be able to buy an ordinary short 5mm box spanner and jam this
in the end of the narrow tube. Box spanners, in case you're not aware are essentially
hollow tubes with the spanner shape pressed onto one, or sometimes both, ends.

--
Phil Addison

In message , 7
email_at_www_at_enemygadgets_dot_com@enemygadgets .com writes
Tim Lamb wrote:


What is needed is some kind of device that can be expanded inside the
jammed
pipe. I'm sure such a device exists, but the question is what would you
ask for?

Something like a Rawlbolt?

I made one for shotgun barrel dent removal but suspect that the OP will
not have the equipment or skills.

I got big rawbolts - probably need smaller ones,
but now idea how it could be operated 1 meter
below the access hole.

Didn't mean to insult:-)

Basically you need a tube which will fit inside the copper pipe and is
long enough to reach. Cut slots in the end. You then need a rod which
tapers to a larger size at the end such that when you draw it inside the
slotted pipe the tube end expands to grip.

--
Tim Lamb

On Sun, 7 Oct 2012 23:32:14 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

Basically you need a tube which will fit inside the copper pipe and is
long enough to reach. Cut slots in the end. You then need a rod which
tapers to a larger size at the end such that when you draw it inside
the slotted pipe the tube end expands to grip.

Seems a lot of work. I reckon the pushfit coupler on the end of another
bit of 15mm pipe will be pretty effective. They don't blow (pull) off
easy and are, I think, rated up to 10 bar.

TBH not sure if the OP has said this lost bit of pipe is actually jammed
in place to just resting, out of reach, 1m from the inspection opening.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In message o.uk, Dave
Liquorice writes
On Sun, 7 Oct 2012 23:32:14 +0100, Tim Lamb wrote:

Basically you need a tube which will fit inside the copper pipe and is
long enough to reach. Cut slots in the end. You then need a rod which
tapers to a larger size at the end such that when you draw it inside
the slotted pipe the tube end expands to grip.

Seems a lot of work. I reckon the pushfit coupler on the end of another
bit of 15mm pipe will be pretty effective. They don't blow (pull) off
easy and are, I think, rated up to 10 bar.

TBH not sure if the OP has said this lost bit of pipe is actually jammed
in place to just resting, out of reach, 1m from the inspection opening.

One of many suggestions:-)

A form of sprag clutch would also work but be much harder to fabricate.

I have to admit that *push fit* couplers are later than my last
involvement in plumbing. The obstacle may well be resting hard up
against the waste pipe side and need prising clear before mating with
the coupler.

I hope the OP will report back.


--
Tim Lamb

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
7 email_at_www_at_enemygadgets_dot_com@enemygadgets .com writes:
I got a cast iron drain pipe 3" diameter thats taking sink water
and it appears out of the wall with a 90 degree
bend and goes straight down about 3 meters
and into concrete.

Someone opened the 90 degree bend cover
and tried to unblock a blockage further down.
But they seem to have used what looks like a 15mm
copper pipe and left it stuck inside!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

An inspection camera locates it about 1 meter below the
access hole.

doh!!

How does one get this out?

Its cost 150 quid so far for someone to come clear it
from what I thought was a normal blockage only
to be told about this major blunder and that the job can't
be done until its taken out.

If the end of the 15mm copper isn't jammed against the side
of the cast iron, could you fit a push-fit 15mm coupler
to another length, lower it onto the piece in there and
push the coupler on, and then pull the two out?

Probably need the camera in there too, to get the two lined
up, and/or some other type of guide to align them.


Fascinating challenge - but beyond a certain point this could just be an
indication that it would be easier to replace the pipe with plastic.

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

On Saturday, October 6, 2012 6:52:01 PM UTC+1, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

I got a cast iron drain pipe 3" diameter thats taking sink water


they get similar problems sometimes in oil wells. there's a huge industry dedicated to extracting lost bits and pieces (or to grinding them into dust in situ). It's called "fishing".

http://www.bakerhughes.com/products-...gagement-tools

(I think it will be outside your price range but might give some ideas...)

Robert

7 wrote, on 07th Oct. 2012 00:22 UTC + 2 :
I ordered a 7M USB endoscopic camera
from Ebay for about 30 quid - it needs another look to see
if it can work out.

Hello,

Did you see a picture of it ?

Pearl.fr has one for 30 euros (comparable price) but the last few
centimetres seem rigid, so pay attention if your tube is angular.

They also have an autonomous model, of which the rigid part of the tube
seems shorter, but it is much more expansive.