Hooked up a new Teknosha P3 brake controller, and thought all was well.
Hooked it up to a loaded trailer today with electric brakes, and I get a "NO
TRAILER CONNECTED" message on the display. Manual controller does not send
any juice back to make brakes function. Had set the controller to 6.0 as
per directions. Seems electricity is not reaching wheels, or even past
coupler, which is just long enough if I don't make any turns. Have to
lengthen that a foot anyway.

Guess there is a loose frammel somewhere. 90% of the time, in my
experience, it is a loose or broken ground.

Do I just take a 12 V. battery back there, take the necessary parts off, and
hit it with some juice to see if the brakes are even hooked up? I just got
this trailer, and have not had the hubs off it, and don't even know if it
has brake shoes on it. If I do hit the wire with some juice, the brake
should just function, right?

I am reluctant to do much with the controller, as it says it is easy to
short it out, and it will fry it instantly, no refunds.

Guess the right way is to just jack it up, take the wheels off, take the
hubs off, and see what's there.

Do I adjust brakes like others, with a spoon or long screwdriver until they
just make contact, then back them off until they quit rubbing?

Right?

Shortcuts and diagnosing expertise welcomed.

Steve

On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 21:23:56 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

Hooked up a new Teknosha P3 brake controller, and thought all was well.
Hooked it up to a loaded trailer today with electric brakes, and I get a "NO
TRAILER CONNECTED" message on the display. Manual controller does not send
any juice back to make brakes function. Had set the controller to 6.0 as
per directions. Seems electricity is not reaching wheels, or even past
coupler, which is just long enough if I don't make any turns. Have to
lengthen that a foot anyway.

Guess there is a loose frammel somewhere. 90% of the time, in my
experience, it is a loose or broken ground.

Do I just take a 12 V. battery back there, take the necessary parts off, and
hit it with some juice to see if the brakes are even hooked up? I just got
this trailer, and have not had the hubs off it, and don't even know if it
has brake shoes on it. If I do hit the wire with some juice, the brake
should just function, right?

I am reluctant to do much with the controller, as it says it is easy to
short it out, and it will fry it instantly, no refunds.

Guess the right way is to just jack it up, take the wheels off, take the
hubs off, and see what's there.

Do I adjust brakes like others, with a spoon or long screwdriver until they
just make contact, then back them off until they quit rubbing?

Right?

Shortcuts and diagnosing expertise welcomed.

Steve


Have you put an ohm meter on the trailer wiring yet? Find the pair
that comes off each wheel and check it for continuity, then hook em
together (in parallel and hook it to your controller. Zip cord,
telephone wire..just about anything will work for the test.

And make sure the wires from the brakes come back to the proper pins
on the connector, after you have determined that the brakes are indeed
working.

Oh..and put a 5 amp fuse in line with the hot wire for the controller
output. Or maybe a 8 amp? Anyone? Ive no idea of what amps trailer
brakes operate at. Ive got a 10 amp on mine..but its what I had on
hand once..shrug 2 brakes.


This might help....

http://www.etrailer.com/question-15680.html




Gunner

One bleeding-heart type asked me in a recent interview if I did not
agree that "violence begets violence." I told him that it is my
earnest endeavor to see that it does. I would like very much to ensure
- and in some cases I have - that any man who offers violence to his
fellow citizen begets a whole lot more in return than he can enjoy.

- Jeff Cooper

Steve B wrote:
Hooked up a new Teknosha P3 brake controller, and thought all was well.
Hooked it up to a loaded trailer today with electric brakes, and I get a "NO
TRAILER CONNECTED" message on the display. Manual controller does not send
any juice back to make brakes function. Had set the controller to 6.0 as
per directions. Seems electricity is not reaching wheels, or even past
coupler, which is just long enough if I don't make any turns. Have to
lengthen that a foot anyway.

Guess there is a loose frammel somewhere. 90% of the time, in my
experience, it is a loose or broken ground.

Broken ground or bad wiring.


Do I just take a 12 V. battery back there, take the necessary parts off, and
hit it with some juice to see if the brakes are even hooked up? I just got
this trailer, and have not had the hubs off it, and don't even know if it
has brake shoes on it. If I do hit the wire with some juice, the brake
should just function, right?

Yes to a point. You should hear it when they apply, but if they are
rusted or broken you might not.


I am reluctant to do much with the controller, as it says it is easy to
short it out, and it will fry it instantly, no refunds.

Guess the right way is to just jack it up, take the wheels off, take the
hubs off, and see what's there.

Yup, Also will tell you if the hubs are OK and show other problems.


Do I adjust brakes like others, with a spoon or long screwdriver until they
just make contact, then back them off until they quit rubbing?

Maybe. All depends on who made the brakes and which type they are. Some
adjust that way, others self adjust with a slider and some just wear out.


Right?

Shortcuts and diagnosing expertise welcomed.

Steve




--
Steve W.

"Steve W." wrote

Guess there is a loose frammel somewhere. 90% of the time, in my
experience, it is a loose or broken ground.

Broken ground or bad wiring.

Started taking off the wiring today from the plug back.



Do I just take a 12 V. battery back there, take the necessary parts off,
and hit it with some juice to see if the brakes are even hooked up? I
just got this trailer, and have not had the hubs off it, and don't even
know if it has brake shoes on it. If I do hit the wire with some juice,
the brake should just function, right?

Yes to a point. You should hear it when they apply, but if they are rusted
or broken you might not.

Hit it with the juice from a battery charger today, had wifey listen from a
foot away, no sound, and she hears better than I want her to most times.



I am reluctant to do much with the controller, as it says it is easy to
short it out, and it will fry it instantly, no refunds.

Guess the right way is to just jack it up, take the wheels off, take the
hubs off, and see what's there.

Yup, Also will tell you if the hubs are OK and show other problems.

Ready to put it on jack stands tomorrow and pull the wheels and hubs and see
what's up on the inside, and apply power direct to the magnets.

Do I adjust brakes like others, with a spoon or long screwdriver until
they just make contact, then back them off until they quit rubbing?

Maybe. All depends on who made the brakes and which type they are. Some
adjust that way, others self adjust with a slider and some just wear out.

Will see that when I get the hubs off. Most common thing I have found is
faulty ground. This jumps from wheel to wheel, with brakes on only one of
the two axles. Will know more with it in the air, wheels and hubs off, and
I can see.

Will advise when I find the problemo.

Steve

On 8/13/2012 11:23 PM, Steve B wrote:
Hooked up a new Teknosha P3 brake controller, and thought all was well.
Hooked it up to a loaded trailer today with electric brakes, and I get a "NO
TRAILER CONNECTED" message on the display. Manual controller does not send
any juice back to make brakes function. Had set the controller to 6.0 as
per directions. Seems electricity is not reaching wheels, or even past
coupler, which is just long enough if I don't make any turns. Have to
lengthen that a foot anyway.

Guess there is a loose frammel somewhere. 90% of the time, in my
experience, it is a loose or broken ground.

Do I just take a 12 V. battery back there, take the necessary parts off, and
hit it with some juice to see if the brakes are even hooked up? I just got
this trailer, and have not had the hubs off it, and don't even know if it
has brake shoes on it. If I do hit the wire with some juice, the brake
should just function, right?

I am reluctant to do much with the controller, as it says it is easy to
short it out, and it will fry it instantly, no refunds.

Guess the right way is to just jack it up, take the wheels off, take the
hubs off, and see what's there.

Do I adjust brakes like others, with a spoon or long screwdriver until they
just make contact, then back them off until they quit rubbing?

Right?

Shortcuts and diagnosing expertise welcomed.

Steve



If it's more than a single axle, remember, they are to be wired in
parallel, not series.

A battery and controller sitting by the wheel might help.

Wire it up and squeeze the tit.
See it the brake moves.

Check them all, If they all work, back track through the wiring to the
connector.

DON'T use the trailer frame for ground!

And a circuit tester with a light works better than volt meter.

"Richard" wrote



If it's more than a single axle, remember, they are to be wired in
parallel, not series.

A battery and controller sitting by the wheel might help.

Wire it up and squeeze the tit.
See it the brake moves.

Check them all, If they all work, back track through the wiring to the
connector.

DON'T use the trailer frame for ground!

And a circuit tester with a light works better than volt meter.

Thanks for the tips. I woulda got the ground thing wrong.

Steve

On Tue, 14 Aug 2012 20:27:20 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Richard" wrote



If it's more than a single axle, remember, they are to be wired in
parallel, not series.

A battery and controller sitting by the wheel might help.

Wire it up and squeeze the tit.
See it the brake moves.

Check them all, If they all work, back track through the wiring to the
connector.

DON'T use the trailer frame for ground!

And a circuit tester with a light works better than volt meter.

Thanks for the tips. I woulda got the ground thing wrong.

Steve

Commercial trailers have been using the frame for ground for decades -
and it works if it is done PROPERLY. Harder to screw up a fround WIRE
than a frame, but also easier to damage the WIRE. Six of one, half
dozen of the other, in my books. I'll stick with a "chassis ground" -
same as used on the tow vehicle, and same as has been used for
decades.

On 8/15/2012 6:38 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 14 Aug 2012 20:27:20 -0700, "Steve
wrote:


wrote



If it's more than a single axle, remember, they are to be wired in
parallel, not series.

A battery and controller sitting by the wheel might help.

Wire it up and squeeze the tit.
See it the brake moves.

Check them all, If they all work, back track through the wiring to the
connector.

DON'T use the trailer frame for ground!

And a circuit tester with a light works better than volt meter.

Thanks for the tips. I woulda got the ground thing wrong.

Steve

Commercial trailers have been using the frame for ground for decades -
and it works if it is done PROPERLY. Harder to screw up a fround WIRE
than a frame, but also easier to damage the WIRE. Six of one, half
dozen of the other, in my books. I'll stick with a "chassis ground" -
same as used on the tow vehicle, and same as has been used for
decades.


A screw connection (from connector to frame) and another (from frame to
brake)?

I'd prefer a wire to wire connection - ANY day.

On Wed, 15 Aug 2012 19:38:19 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 14 Aug 2012 20:27:20 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Richard" wrote



If it's more than a single axle, remember, they are to be wired in
parallel, not series.

A battery and controller sitting by the wheel might help.

Wire it up and squeeze the tit.
See it the brake moves.

Check them all, If they all work, back track through the wiring to the
connector.

DON'T use the trailer frame for ground!

And a circuit tester with a light works better than volt meter.

Thanks for the tips. I woulda got the ground thing wrong.

Steve

Commercial trailers have been using the frame for ground for decades -
and it works if it is done PROPERLY. Harder to screw up a fround WIRE
than a frame, but also easier to damage the WIRE. Six of one, half
dozen of the other, in my books. I'll stick with a "chassis ground" -
same as used on the tow vehicle, and same as has been used for
decades.

Don't most automobiles uses a "frame ground" :-)
Cheers,
John B.

John B. formulated on Thursday :
On Wed, 15 Aug 2012 19:38:19 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 14 Aug 2012 20:27:20 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Richard" wrote



If it's more than a single axle, remember, they are to be wired in
parallel, not series.

A battery and controller sitting by the wheel might help.

Wire it up and squeeze the tit.
See it the brake moves.

Check them all, If they all work, back track through the wiring to the
connector.

DON'T use the trailer frame for ground!

And a circuit tester with a light works better than volt meter.

Thanks for the tips. I woulda got the ground thing wrong.

Steve

Commercial trailers have been using the frame for ground for decades -
and it works if it is done PROPERLY. Harder to screw up a fround WIRE
than a frame, but also easier to damage the WIRE. Six of one, half
dozen of the other, in my books. I'll stick with a "chassis ground" -
same as used on the tow vehicle, and same as has been used for
decades.

Don't most automobiles uses a "frame ground" :-)
Cheers,
John B.

No.

--
John G

John B. wrote:
On Wed, 15 Aug 2012 19:38:19 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 14 Aug 2012 20:27:20 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

"Richard" wrote

If it's more than a single axle, remember, they are to be wired in
parallel, not series.

A battery and controller sitting by the wheel might help.

Wire it up and squeeze the tit.
See it the brake moves.

Check them all, If they all work, back track through the wiring to the
connector.

DON'T use the trailer frame for ground!

And a circuit tester with a light works better than volt meter.
Thanks for the tips. I woulda got the ground thing wrong.

Steve

Commercial trailers have been using the frame for ground for decades -
and it works if it is done PROPERLY. Harder to screw up a fround WIRE
than a frame, but also easier to damage the WIRE. Six of one, half
dozen of the other, in my books. I'll stick with a "chassis ground" -
same as used on the tow vehicle, and same as has been used for
decades.

Don't most automobiles uses a "frame ground" :-)
Cheers,
John B.

Up until about 1998-99 most used chassis ground. However since then most
have switched over and run both ground and power lines to each item.
Cut's down on all the hash from bad connections causing the ECM to go nuts.
Plus many newer vehicles used switched ground to control items instead
of switching the hot side. That can be interesting when you try to wire
things in.

--
Steve W.