Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting air flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've never been inside an air tool.
All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on it. 9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.

Thanks,
Ivan Vegvary

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the
trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting air
flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've never been
inside an air tool.
All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on it.
9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.


Pouring transmission fluid into the intake and letting it soak in for a
spell will oftentimes free them up.

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the
trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting air
flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've never been
inside an air tool.
All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on it.
9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.

Thanks,
Ivan Vegvary

Ivan, I've a couple of air rattle guns & when they've done that I've just
squirted a load of wd-40 or similar into them and spun them by hand &
they've come good. Mine also sit idle for months at a time.

On 2012-07-06, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the
trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting
air flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've
never been inside an air tool.

I would fix it, even though I have not yet been in an air tool
either. Just a matter of time until I get the excuse. :-)

All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on
it. 9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.

Do you squirt air tool oil into the fitting just before
connecting up the air *every* time?

Is your air dry, or full of water? If the latter, it will rust
which could be your problem.

What happens if you switch between forward and reverse a few
times? Does that break it free (with addition of oil, of course).

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

With that little bit of work, it's probably something dried up and stuck.
I'd try with the air, and pull the trigger. And then do some percussive
maintenance (whack it with a brass hammer) to see if you can get the stuck
part to loosen up.

They typically have an oil hole, but it's likely beyond that.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the trigger
and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting air
flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've never been
inside an air tool.
All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on it.
9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.

Thanks,
Ivan Vegvary

On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 20:37:26 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting air flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've never been inside an air tool.
All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on it. 9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.

Ivan, it's usually gumming of the old oil and is usually a quick
repair. I like to relube with Marvel Mystery Oil for reassembly.

Get the manual, note the parts in the exploded view for reference, and
note the way the vanes sit in the cylinder. One edge will usually be
more rounded. Soak the metal parts in lacquer thinner for half an
hour, brush them with it using a nylon brush and let them dry. Relube
and reassemble. All done!


--
Truth loves to go naked.
--Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732

On Fri, 06 Jul 2012 05:15:31 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote:

On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 20:37:26 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the
trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting
air flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've
never been inside an air tool. All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun
does not have that many hours on it. 9 years with maybe changing two or
three sets of wheels per year.

Ivan, it's usually gumming of the old oil and is usually a quick repair.
I like to relube with Marvel Mystery Oil for reassembly.

Get the manual, note the parts in the exploded view for reference, and
note the way the vanes sit in the cylinder. One edge will usually be
more rounded. Soak the metal parts in lacquer thinner for half an hour,
brush them with it using a nylon brush and let them dry. Relube and
reassemble. All done!

Check the condition of the vanes, and the bearings.

The air tools I used to rebuild would get cupped on one side (presumably
they'd get cupped on both if you go both ways equally -- the impact
wrenches were used in manufacturing, so they mostly drove one way, and
the grinders -- well, they always go one way). If the vanes aren't nice
and flat where they're obviously supposed to be flat get a set of vanes
and replace.

Mostly I spent my time disassembling, cleaning, replacing vanes if
necessary, and reassambling. But if you spin the bearings and get grindy
noises instead of a smooth "whizzzzzz" then replace them, too.

I'd tell you to make sure the impact head is in good shape, too, but it
doesn't sound like that's your problem, and we never got that far into
the tools anyway so I have no experience.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

On 7/6/2012 4:59 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
With that little bit of work, it's probably something dried up and stuck.
I'd try with the air, and pull the trigger. And then do some percussive
maintenance (whack it with a brass hammer) to see if you can get the stuck
part to loosen up.

Never force anything! get a bigger hammer.

On 7/5/2012 11:37 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting air flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've never been inside an air tool.
All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on it. 9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.

Thanks,
Ivan Vegvary


We use impacts in production and have in-line oilers filled with air
tool oil or trany fluid. Just a tiny amount will keep even the cheap
impacts running. A good impact will run forever if kept lubed. Don't
crack it open until you try lube in the air input. Let it sit aftyer a
good dosing if necessary.

On 7/5/2012 8:37 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting air flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've never been inside an air tool.
All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on it. 9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.

Thanks,
Ivan Vegvary

your compressor may need to be drained of condensation. Everytime you
start using your air tool, put a a few drops of air tool oil into the
air fitting hole. Don't do this with a DA sander.

On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 21:53:02 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the
trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting air
flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've never been
inside an air tool.
All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on it.
9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.


Pouring transmission fluid into the intake and letting it soak in for a
spell will oftentimes free them up.

Has the tool been lubricated in use? Air tool oil is preferred - ATF
works in a pinch, but MMO is a better alternative (all I used in my
air tools for YEARS.).

If soaking some MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) doesn't free it up, take it
apart and clean and oil everything well and it should work. I've had
mine apart several times over the decades, and replaced broken hammers
and all kinds of parts. Back then any part for a CP734 was available
off of just about any good tool jobber's truck.

"azjohn" wrote in message
...
On 7/5/2012 8:37 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the
trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Turn it a little with a 1/2" wrench and try again.

jsw

wrote in message ...
On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 21:53:02 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the
trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting air
flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've never been
inside an air tool.
All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on it.
9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.


Pouring transmission fluid into the intake and letting it soak in for a
spell will oftentimes free them up.

Has the tool been lubricated in use? Air tool oil is preferred - ATF
works in a pinch,

Others might disagree.

but MMO is a better alternative (all I used in my air tools for YEARS.)

Could be a better alternative, then again, could be pure hype....

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=48952

But I've been using transmission fluid in my air tools for for about 35 years now and have had a problem exactly once, with a cheap Chinese POS that came as part of a package deal along with a backup compressor that I had bought at Sears.

if soaking some MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) doesn't free it up, take it
apart and clean and oil everything well and it should work. I've had
mine apart several times over the decades, and replaced broken hammers
and all kinds of parts.

Kind of makes me wonder why it keeps breaking.....

Back then any part for a CP734 was available
off of just about any good tool jobber's truck.

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 21:53:02 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull
the trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No
rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not
letting air flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing
things but I've never been inside an air tool. All advise
appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on it.
9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per
year.

Pouring transmission fluid into the intake and letting it soak in
for a spell will oftentimes free them up.

Has the tool been lubricated in use? Air tool oil is preferred -
ATF works in a pinch,

Others might disagree.

but MMO is a better alternative (all I used in my air tools for
YEARS.)

Could be a better alternative, then again, could be pure hype....

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=48952

But I've been using transmission fluid in my air tools for for about
35 years now and have had a problem exactly once, with a cheap
Chinese POS that came as part of a package deal along with a backup
compressor that I had bought at Sears.

if soaking some MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) doesn't free it up, take
it apart and clean and oil everything well and it should work. I've
had mine apart several times over the decades, and replaced broken
hammers and all kinds of parts.

Kind of makes me wonder why it keeps breaking.....

Back then any part for a CP734 was available off of just about any
good tool jobber's truck.


Back when the CP (Chicago Pneumatic) plant was still in Utica they
supplied "air tool oil" to the dealers and companies they sold through.
They would bring in bulk 55 gal drums and had a machine that then filled
whatever container the customer specified. The oil used was all the same
regardless as it was to CP spec. The bulk oil supplied came from the
Marvel Oil Company, and was SURPRISE : Marvel Mystery Oil. When they
were closing the place down I was still driving for a company that did
paint work for them and they were clearing stuff out by the dumpster
load. One of the items they were disposing of were cases of oil in old
sears logo containers. I remarked that it was a shame that it was
getting thrown out, went back got the paperwork for the stuff done and
came up to find the load off and the door closed. Hit the next delivery,
opened the door and found a PALLET with 20 cases of oil on it, in the
back !!!
I am still using that oil in the shop oilers.



--
Steve W.

On Fri, 6 Jul 2012 16:01:03 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


wrote in message ...
On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 21:53:02 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the
trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting air
flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've never been
inside an air tool.
All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on it.
9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.


Pouring transmission fluid into the intake and letting it soak in for a
spell will oftentimes free them up.

Has the tool been lubricated in use? Air tool oil is preferred - ATF
works in a pinch,

Others might disagree.
Disagree with what? That Air Tool oil is preferred, or that ATF is an
acceptable substitute?

but MMO is a better alternative (all I used in my air tools for YEARS.)

Could be a better alternative, then again, could be pure hype....



http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=48952

And what's your point??

But I've been using transmission fluid in my air tools for for about 35 years now and have had a problem exactly once, with a cheap Chinese POS that came as part of a package deal along with a backup compressor that I had bought at Sears.

And how hard do you use it?

if soaking some MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) doesn't free it up, take it
apart and clean and oil everything well and it should work. I've had
mine apart several times over the decades, and replaced broken hammers
and all kinds of parts.

Kind of makes me wonder why it keeps breaking.....


OK jerk. That 734 was 20 years old when I bought it. It was used by a
race-team pit crew on CO2 for several years. Then I used it every day
- and I used it hard. I rebuilt it twice in 26 years. Plus replacing
one hammer unit that broke. And that was running 125-150 PSI line
pressure on farm equipment, trucks, industrial equipment AND cars.

That CP is still in my tool box - and it was made back in the fifties.
Back then any part for a CP734 was available
off of just about any good tool jobber's truck.

On 7/6/2012 13:17, azjohn wrote:
On 7/5/2012 8:37 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the
trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting
air flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've
never been inside an air tool.
All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on
it. 9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.

Thanks,
Ivan Vegvary

your compressor may need to be drained of condensation. Everytime you
start using your air tool, put a a few drops of air tool oil into the
air fitting hole. Don't do this with a DA sander.

Why?


Dang. I was just gonna try to fix a DA I got with a bunch of stuff. Air
goes through, but no rotation.

--
Steve Walker
(remove brain when replying)

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 6 Jul 2012 16:01:03 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 21:53:02 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the
trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting
air
flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've never
been
inside an air tool.
All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on
it.
9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.


Pouring transmission fluid into the intake and letting it soak in for a
spell will oftentimes free them up.

Has the tool been lubricated in use? Air tool oil is preferred - ATF
works in a pinch,

Others might disagree.
Disagree with what? That Air Tool oil is preferred, or that ATF is an
acceptable substitute?

That heavy detergent lightweight mineral based anti-wear hydraulic fluid
which has been marketed as "air tool oil" and sold at a hugely inflated
price is any more effective than ATF.



but MMO is a better alternative (all I used in my air tools for YEARS.)

Could be a better alternative, then again, could be pure hype....



http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=48952

And what's your point??

My point was that others certainly DO disagree.

What are you, ****ing retarded?



But I've been using transmission fluid in my air tools for for about 35
years now and have had a problem exactly once, with a cheap Chinese POS
that came as part of a package deal along with a backup compressor that I
had bought at Sears.

And how hard do you use it?

Oftentimes, my die grinders are used 8 hours per day, for weeks at a time.

I think the one I mentioned above lasted a couple days was all.

On the other hand, my Dotco right andle grinder is going 35 years old and
has had only a single vane replacement.


if soaking some MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) doesn't free it up, take it
apart and clean and oil everything well and it should work. I've had
mine apart several times over the decades, and replaced broken hammers
and all kinds of parts.

Kind of makes me wonder why it keeps breaking.....


OK jerk.

Forget to take your meds this morning did you ?

That 734 was 20 years old when I bought it. It was used by a
race-team pit crew on CO2 for several years. Then I used it every day
- and I used it hard. I rebuilt it twice in 26 years. Plus replacing
one hammer unit that broke. And that was running 125-150 PSI line
pressure on farm equipment, trucks, industrial equipment AND cars.

That CP is still in my tool box - and it was made back in the fifties.

Whatever you do, DON'T put red dye in your air-tool-oil...

Back then any part for a CP734 was available
off of just about any good tool jobber's truck.

On Fri, 6 Jul 2012 20:04:56 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 6 Jul 2012 16:01:03 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 21:53:02 -0700, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:


"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
...
Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the
trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting
air
flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've never
been
inside an air tool.
All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on
it.
9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.


Pouring transmission fluid into the intake and letting it soak in for a
spell will oftentimes free them up.

Has the tool been lubricated in use? Air tool oil is preferred - ATF
works in a pinch,

Others might disagree.
Disagree with what? That Air Tool oil is preferred, or that ATF is an
acceptable substitute?

That heavy detergent lightweight mineral based anti-wear hydraulic fluid
which has been marketed as "air tool oil" and sold at a hugely inflated
price is any more effective than ATF.



but MMO is a better alternative (all I used in my air tools for YEARS.)

Could be a better alternative, then again, could be pure hype....



http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=48952

And what's your point??

My point was that others certainly DO disagree.

Who dissagreed with me, other than you????? Air tool oil is
"recommended" ATF can be used if you don't have air tool oil, and MMO
is also highly recommended - and one poster claimed CP repackaged MMO
as air tool oil - so where am I wrong????

What are you, ****ing retarded?



But I've been using transmission fluid in my air tools for for about 35
years now and have had a problem exactly once, with a cheap Chinese POS
that came as part of a package deal along with a backup compressor that I
had bought at Sears.

And how hard do you use it?

Oftentimes, my die grinders are used 8 hours per day, for weeks at a time.

And impact guns, although they use the same basic motor as the
airgrinder and angle grinder, have totally different wear issues with
the impact heads - the hammers - and the impact loads also affect the
vane motors.

I think the one I mentioned above lasted a couple days was all.

On the other hand, my Dotco right andle grinder is going 35 years old and
has had only a single vane replacement.


if soaking some MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) doesn't free it up, take it
apart and clean and oil everything well and it should work. I've had
mine apart several times over the decades, and replaced broken hammers
and all kinds of parts.

Kind of makes me wonder why it keeps breaking.....


OK jerk.

Forget to take your meds this morning did you ?

No - but you have an annoying habit of being a condescending JERK
whenever I post anything.



That 734 was 20 years old when I bought it. It was used by a
race-team pit crew on CO2 for several years. Then I used it every day
- and I used it hard. I rebuilt it twice in 26 years. Plus replacing
one hammer unit that broke. And that was running 125-150 PSI line
pressure on farm equipment, trucks, industrial equipment AND cars.

That CP is still in my tool box - and it was made back in the fifties.

Whatever you do, DON'T put red dye in your air-tool-oil...

Back then any part for a CP734 was available
off of just about any good tool jobber's truck.

wrote in message
...

but MMO is a better alternative (all I used in my air tools for
YEARS.)

Could be a better alternative, then again, could be pure hype....



http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=48952

And what's your point??

My point was that others certainly DO disagree.

Who dissagreed with me, other than you?????

"saltmine
Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kingman Arizona
Posts: 1,319



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Having been in a business where I had to rely on air tools a lot, Given the
choice, I would opt for ATF in my tools. ATF is highly detergent, and low
viscosity, so it's near perfect for tools. I have also used oil that was
specifically designed for air tools. Aside from it being more expensive, and
sometimes not available, it's formulation is a close match for ATF.
One type of oil almost everybody, anywhere I worked used to use was "Marvel
Mystery Oil", Some shops kept it in gallon cans. Very popular."

===

learn to read, dummy...


Air tool oil is
"recommended" ATF can be used if you don't have air tool oil, and MMO
is also highly recommended - and one poster claimed CP repackaged MMO
as air tool oil - so where am I wrong????

What are you, ****ing retarded?



But I've been using transmission fluid in my air tools for for about 35
years now and have had a problem exactly once, with a cheap Chinese POS
that came as part of a package deal along with a backup compressor that
I
had bought at Sears.

And how hard do you use it?

Oftentimes, my die grinders are used 8 hours per day, for weeks at a time.

And impact guns, although they use the same basic motor as the
airgrinder and angle grinder, have totally different wear issues with
the impact heads - the hammers - and the impact loads also affect the
vane motors.

I think the one I mentioned above lasted a couple days was all.

On the other hand, my Dotco right andle grinder is going 35 years old and
has had only a single vane replacement.


if soaking some MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) doesn't free it up, take it
apart and clean and oil everything well and it should work. I've had
mine apart several times over the decades, and replaced broken hammers
and all kinds of parts.

Kind of makes me wonder why it keeps breaking.....


OK jerk.

Forget to take your meds this morning did you ?

No - but you have an annoying habit of being a condescending JERK
whenever I post anything.


Actually, YOUR initial reply to me was condescending--at exactly the point
where you took issue with my mentioning ATF which, incidentally, may very
well work better where the goal is to free a gummed up tool.



That 734 was 20 years old when I bought it. It was used by a
race-team pit crew on CO2 for several years. Then I used it every day
- and I used it hard. I rebuilt it twice in 26 years. Plus replacing
one hammer unit that broke. And that was running 125-150 PSI line
pressure on farm equipment, trucks, industrial equipment AND cars.

That CP is still in my tool box - and it was made back in the fifties.

Whatever you do, DON'T put red dye in your air-tool-oil...

Back then any part for a CP734 was available
off of just about any good tool jobber's truck.

Steve Walker wrote:
On 7/6/2012 13:17, azjohn wrote:
On 7/5/2012 8:37 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the
trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting
air flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've
never been inside an air tool.
All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on
it. 9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.

Thanks,
Ivan Vegvary

your compressor may need to be drained of condensation. Everytime you
start using your air tool, put a a few drops of air tool oil into the
air fitting hole. Don't do this with a DA sander.

Why?


Dang. I was just gonna try to fix a DA I got with a bunch of stuff. Air
goes through, but no rotation.


The admonition NOT to oil a DA is dependent on what your usage of it
will be AND how well it is built.

Usage wise - If you're doing prep for paint type work with it the oil
can mist out onto the item and get embedded in the material.
Oil under filler/primer/paint is NOT a good thing. If your using it for
other work then oil away.
However you can oil a DA and still use it for final finish work. Add a
few drops of oil to the inlet, then wrap a rag around the air outlet and
run it till oil stops coming out.
If you have one of the good DAs it will likely have a filtered outlet
just for this situation. In that case you remove the filter, oil the gun
and run it. Wipe off the oil and install the filter.

I have a couple of guns in the shop right now that seem to have vane
issues when at low power. Will probably pull them apart and see if it's
sticking vanes or poor finish on the barrels. One is a newer IR and the
other is a IR knockoff that someone gave me because they got it for a
gift, but don't have air in the shop!

--
Steve W.

fired this volley in
:

MMO
is also highly recommended - and one poster claimed CP repackaged MMO
as air tool oil - so where am I wrong????


Clare,
Marvel Mystery Oil is repackaged ATF.

Air oil is repackaged hydraulic oil.

You got the repackaging associations wrong.

It all works. The "magic" is in being able to sell two ounces for five
bucks of an oil that normally retails for five bucks a quart.

LLoyd

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 06:57:25 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

fired this volley in
:

MMO
is also highly recommended - and one poster claimed CP repackaged MMO
as air tool oil - so where am I wrong????


Clare,
Marvel Mystery Oil is repackaged ATF.

Air oil is repackaged hydraulic oil.

You got the repackaging associations wrong.

It all works. The "magic" is in being able to sell two ounces for five
bucks of an oil that normally retails for five bucks a quart.

I passed up a gallon of it at $9.95 at the local Schucks AP several
years ago, and I'm still kicking myself. Ditto WD-40 at that price.
Evidently, in 2008, PepBoys had MMO gallons for $4.95. Wish I'd seen
it. I always have an extra $5 to drop on a deal.

P.S: Lloyd, learn to shop. Whoever you go to that's selling MMO for
$2.50/oz is selling it for _way_ above retail.

--
Truth loves to go naked.
--Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 06:57:25 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

fired this volley in
:

MMO
is also highly recommended - and one poster claimed CP repackaged MMO
as air tool oil - so where am I wrong????


Clare,
Marvel Mystery Oil is repackaged ATF.

Air oil is repackaged hydraulic oil.

You got the repackaging associations wrong.

It all works. The "magic" is in being able to sell two ounces for five
bucks of an oil that normally retails for five bucks a quart.

LLoyd


Lloyd, you can use MMO as ATF if you like, but it will get real
expensive when you need to rebuild the transmission. It is a TOTALLY
different composition. Two similarities. It is a petroleum based
lubricant, and it is red in colour.

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 06:57:25 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

fired this volley in
m:

MMO
is also highly recommended - and one poster claimed CP repackaged MMO
as air tool oil - so where am I wrong????


Clare,
Marvel Mystery Oil is repackaged ATF.

Air oil is repackaged hydraulic oil.

You got the repackaging associations wrong.

It all works. The "magic" is in being able to sell two ounces for five
bucks of an oil that normally retails for five bucks a quart.

LLoyd


Lloyd, you can use MMO as ATF if you like, but it will get real
expensive when you need to rebuild the transmission. It is a TOTALLY
different composition.

Since the composition of MMO is a trade secret; you have absolutely no way
to validate your claim above.

Two similarities. It is a petroleum based
lubricant, and it is red in colour.

In article ,
says...

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 06:57:25 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

fired this volley in
m:

MMO
is also highly recommended - and one poster claimed CP repackaged MMO
as air tool oil - so where am I wrong????


Clare,
Marvel Mystery Oil is repackaged ATF.

Air oil is repackaged hydraulic oil.

You got the repackaging associations wrong.

It all works. The "magic" is in being able to sell two ounces for five
bucks of an oil that normally retails for five bucks a quart.

LLoyd


Lloyd, you can use MMO as ATF if you like, but it will get real
expensive when you need to rebuild the transmission. It is a TOTALLY
different composition.

Since the composition of MMO is a trade secret; you have absolutely no way
to validate your claim above.

Two similarities. It is a petroleum based
lubricant, and it is red in colour.


There's an MSDS for Marvel Mystery Oil that says that the boiling point
is 172C. The MSDS for Dexron says that the boiling point is above 315C.
So clearly there's _some_ difference.

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

P.S: Lloyd, learn to shop. Whoever you go to that's selling MMO for
$2.50/oz is selling it for _way_ above retail.

Noooo... Air oil (AKA hydraulic oil).

MMO has always been only about three times the cost of the ATF in the can.

LLoyd

"J. Clarke" fired this volley in
in.local:

There's an MSDS for Marvel Mystery Oil that says that the boiling
point is 172C. The MSDS for Dexron says that the boiling point is
above 315C. So clearly there's _some_ difference.

Yeah... they add a low-fraction solvent to reduce the viscosity and
"stretch" the expensive ATF.

Look... For whatever other uses, MMO was originally marketed as a "Top
end oil" for pouring down a carburetor to solve sticky-lifter syndrome.
That particular use is long obsolete, but still the product sells.

When I was younger, and all cars were carbureted, we used MMO and ATF
interchangably for the sticky lifter problem, and both worked equally
well.

Lloyd

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 18:38:09 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

P.S: Lloyd, learn to shop. Whoever you go to that's selling MMO for
$2.50/oz is selling it for _way_ above retail.

Noooo... Air oil (AKA hydraulic oil).

MMO has always been only about three times the cost of the ATF in the can.

Hayseuss Crisco. Do the math. That prices _ATF_ at $26.67 a quart,
Lloyd. And I've never seen MMO for $80 a quart, that's certain.

I last bought a quart of MMO for $4.49 or so, last year, and I thought
that was a lousy price. I think the pint was $3.95.

--
Truth loves to go naked.
--Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 18:42:25 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"J. Clarke" fired this volley in
ain.local:

There's an MSDS for Marvel Mystery Oil that says that the boiling
point is 172C. The MSDS for Dexron says that the boiling point is
above 315C. So clearly there's _some_ difference.

Yeah... they add a low-fraction solvent to reduce the viscosity and
"stretch" the expensive ATF.

And a scent, which I love.


Look... For whatever other uses, MMO was originally marketed as a "Top
end oil" for pouring down a carburetor to solve sticky-lifter syndrome.
That particular use is long obsolete, but still the product sells.

When I was younger, and all cars were carbureted, we used MMO and ATF
interchangably for the sticky lifter problem, and both worked equally
well.

The high detergent of both was bad for really dirty crankcases. I saw
a 1" chunk of grease come off the inside of an engine from running
that. They pulled it down when the oil didn't "make it all better."
It looked like the owner had added oil but never changed it.

--
Truth loves to go naked.
--Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

Yeah... they add a low-fraction solvent to reduce the viscosity and
"stretch" the expensive ATF.

Look... For whatever other uses, MMO was originally marketed as a "Top
end oil" for pouring down a carburetor to solve sticky-lifter syndrome.
That particular use is long obsolete, but still the product sells.


I knew a guy that used MMO on Commodore 1541 floppy disk drive motors
and bragged that he only had to use it every six months.

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 18:42:25 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"J. Clarke" fired this volley in
ain.local:

There's an MSDS for Marvel Mystery Oil that says that the boiling
point is 172C. The MSDS for Dexron says that the boiling point is
above 315C. So clearly there's _some_ difference.

Yeah... they add a low-fraction solvent to reduce the viscosity and
"stretch" the expensive ATF.

Look... For whatever other uses, MMO was originally marketed as a "Top
end oil" for pouring down a carburetor to solve sticky-lifter syndrome.
That particular use is long obsolete, but still the product sells.

When I was younger, and all cars were carbureted, we used MMO and ATF
interchangably for the sticky lifter problem, and both worked equally
well.

Lloyd
And the formula for ATF has changed significantly since then as well.
First came Type Suffix A fluid. Both it and the original Dexron
contained sperm whale oil as a friction modifier. Dexron 2 got jojoba
oil to replace the sperm whale oil - and disolved solder in oil
coolers. Dexron 2D got corrosion inhibitors - which made it absorb
water and foam excessively. Dexron 2E solved that problem, but was
short-lived - being replaced with Dexron 3 in 1993.
Dexron 6 came out in 2005, and is thinner than Dexron 3 for better
fuel economy, among other differences. And that's just Dexron.

Type F and Mercon have gone through the same type of changes.

MMO does not contain any of the "friction modifiers" required in ATF
to make the clutches grab while lubricating other sliding surfaces,
and is thinner than ATF.

Then to muddy the waters even more, some Ford spec fluid does NOT have
friction modifiers, and all CURRENT spec ATF is made from synthetic
stocks. All current ATFs are a very complex mix of anti-oxidants,
corrosion inhibitors, anti-foam agents, pour point depressants,
viscosity index improvers, and other components.

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Hayseuss Crisco. Do the math. That prices _ATF_ at $26.67 a quart,
Lloyd. And I've never seen MMO for $80 a quart, that's certain.

Lord! What math did you use? IF ATF is $4.00 a quart, then MMO would be
$12.00. Where did you get those wild numbers?

LLoyd

On Sun, 08 Jul 2012 08:15:02 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Hayseuss Crisco. Do the math. That prices _ATF_ at $26.67 a quart,
Lloyd. And I've never seen MMO for $80 a quart, that's certain.

Lord! What math did you use? IF ATF is $4.00 a quart, then MMO would be
$12.00. Where did you get those wild numbers?

Wasn't it you who said they paid $5 for 2 ounces of MMO? You snipped
my reference from that post. Go back a couple posts and you'll see.

--
Truth loves to go naked.
--Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Wasn't it you who said they paid $5 for 2 ounces of MMO? You snipped
my reference from that post. Go back a couple posts and you'll see.

No... $5.00 for 2 ounces of "special air tool oil".

Lloyd

On Sun, 08 Jul 2012 08:15:02 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Hayseuss Crisco. Do the math. That prices _ATF_ at $26.67 a quart,
Lloyd. And I've never seen MMO for $80 a quart, that's certain.

Lord! What math did you use? IF ATF is $4.00 a quart, then MMO would be
$12.00. Where did you get those wild numbers?

LLoyd
Something about $2.50 an ounce - wherever that came from.

On Sun, 08 Jul 2012 10:15:03 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Wasn't it you who said they paid $5 for 2 ounces of MMO? You snipped
my reference from that post. Go back a couple posts and you'll see.

No... $5.00 for 2 ounces of "special air tool oil".

Lloyd
Cambell Hausfeld air tool oil in 8 oz bottle from Canadian tire is
$4.19
Home Despot sells their Husky brand for $4.49 on-line for 8 oz.


KleenFlo also sells air tool oil -at $44.90 for 4 liters from Acklands
Grainger - and for interest's sake, the MSDS on that product
indicates a boiling point of over 129C and a flashpoint of 69c. SG of
0.84,
Contains 1% Zinc C1-C14 alkyldithiophosphates, 60-100% Hydrotreated
petroleum oil, and 1-10% of both Naphthenic Oil and Hydrocarbon
Distillate.

Toolstore sells 20 oz of air tool oil (Bostich) for 7.99
Home Hardware sells the TopRing product in half liters for about $5.
Busy Bee sells 8 0z of Porter Cable air tool oil for $4.99.
CP Protectolube is sold in 591ml containers for $7.99 by KMS.

All CANADIAN prices, which are generally about 30% higher than Yankee
prices.

On 7/6/2012 7:01 PM, Steve Walker wrote:
On 7/6/2012 13:17, azjohn wrote:
On 7/5/2012 8:37 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the
trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting
air flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've
never been inside an air tool.
All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on
it. 9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.

Thanks,
Ivan Vegvary

your compressor may need to be drained of condensation. Everytime you
start using your air tool, put a a few drops of air tool oil into the
air fitting hole. Don't do this with a DA sander.

Why?


Dang. I was just gonna try to fix a DA I got with a bunch of stuff. Air
goes through, but no rotation.

Because if you put oil in immediately before use, you will spray oil
film on the surface of your work.
You can oil the DA, but run it without being anywhere near your sanding
surface, and make sure it is no longer spitting any out when you use it.

On Thursday, July 5, 2012 at 10:37:26 PM UTC-5, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Picked up my impact wrench (1/2") and it stopped working. Pull the trigger and all you get is air out of the exhaust. No rotation.

Is this worth tearing into? Could something be gummed up, not letting air flow to wherever? I'm generally good at fixing things but I've never been inside an air tool.
All advise appreciated. BTW, the gun does not have that many hours on it.. 9 years with maybe changing two or three sets of wheels per year.

Thanks,
Ivan Vegvary

I tried all the methods on the group. First I turned the rachet about 10 times in both directions, then I put some MMO into the air port. It fired up on the first try and runs great. This tool has never been used so I guess it was just stuck from being idle. Great posts saved me a trip to the supplier to only have them do exactly what I did. Thanks to everyone who answered Ivan. Helped a lot!

On Sunday, July 8, 2012 at 12:36:47 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jul 2012 10:15:03 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Wasn't it you who said they paid $5 for 2 ounces of MMO? You snipped
my reference from that post. Go back a couple posts and you'll see.

No... $5.00 for 2 ounces of "special air tool oil".

Lloyd
Cambell Hausfeld air tool oil in 8 oz bottle from Canadian tire is
$4.19
Home Despot sells their Husky brand for $4.49 on-line for 8 oz.


KleenFlo also sells air tool oil -at $44.90 for 4 liters from Acklands
Grainger - and for interest's sake, the MSDS on that product
indicates a boiling point of over 129C and a flashpoint of 69c. SG of
0.84,
Contains 1% Zinc C1-C14 alkyldithiophosphates, 60-100% Hydrotreated
petroleum oil, and 1-10% of both Naphthenic Oil and Hydrocarbon
Distillate.

Toolstore sells 20 oz of air tool oil (Bostich) for 7.99
Home Hardware sells the TopRing product in half liters for about $5.
Busy Bee sells 8 0z of Porter Cable air tool oil for $4.99.
CP Protectolube is sold in 591ml containers for $7.99 by KMS.

All CANADIAN prices, which are generally about 30% higher than Yankee
prices.


Any one ever try Kroil by Kano Lab. Good stuff.

On Mon, 20 Jun 2016 16:34:46 -0700 (PDT), Sidney
wrote:

On Sunday, July 8, 2012 at 12:36:47 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jul 2012 10:15:03 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Wasn't it you who said they paid $5 for 2 ounces of MMO? You snipped
my reference from that post. Go back a couple posts and you'll see.

No... $5.00 for 2 ounces of "special air tool oil".

Lloyd
Cambell Hausfeld air tool oil in 8 oz bottle from Canadian tire is
$4.19
Home Despot sells their Husky brand for $4.49 on-line for 8 oz.


KleenFlo also sells air tool oil -at $44.90 for 4 liters from Acklands
Grainger - and for interest's sake, the MSDS on that product
indicates a boiling point of over 129C and a flashpoint of 69c. SG of
0.84,
Contains 1% Zinc C1-C14 alkyldithiophosphates, 60-100% Hydrotreated
petroleum oil, and 1-10% of both Naphthenic Oil and Hydrocarbon
Distillate.

Toolstore sells 20 oz of air tool oil (Bostich) for 7.99
Home Hardware sells the TopRing product in half liters for about $5.
Busy Bee sells 8 0z of Porter Cable air tool oil for $4.99.
CP Protectolube is sold in 591ml containers for $7.99 by KMS.

All CANADIAN prices, which are generally about 30% higher than Yankee
prices.


Any one ever try Kroil by Kano Lab. Good stuff.

Kroil is GREAT penetrating oil..but a bit too rich for airtool
oil..unless you happen to have a drum of it. Cheap ATF works just
fine for airtool oil.


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