Someone here was a certified forklift repair tech. I've lost the
history.

I bought an old (1978) ClarkLift 2000lb machine to help moving projects
around the shop. Got it for 3K delivered, and it runs well and is dry
everywhere (!).

It has only one problem that someone else hasn't already bypassed,
removed, or re-engineered -- The dip tube in the fuel tank must
(probably) has a hole in it. It loses its prime after sitting for as
little as 10 minutes. The tube outlet block/fitting appears to be welded
to the tank, so no removing the tube to replace or repair it -- without
some fancy torch work INSIDE the body of the machine (before you say
it... NO! I won't G)

It has an electric pump installed to replace the engine-driven one, and
the electric apparently can self-prime, but not fast enough to suit the
"start-and-go" mentality. So right now, I'm throwing an ounce of fuel
into the air cleaner intake to get it started. No biggy, but I don't
want to start removing stuff until next week, after I get some big pieces
moved.

SO... Is this tank welded in? Can it be removed, cleaned, replaced? If
not, I think the strategy would be to build a box inside the bustle, and
install a new (maybe smaller) tank, with the top of the draw tube about
level with the carb.

Thanks,
Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
Someone here was a certified forklift repair tech. I've lost the
history.

I bought an old (1978) ClarkLift 2000lb machine to help moving
projects
around the shop. Got it for 3K delivered, and it runs well and is
dry
everywhere (!).

It has only one problem that someone else hasn't already bypassed,
removed, or re-engineered -- The dip tube in the fuel tank must
(probably) has a hole in it. It loses its prime after sitting for
as
little as 10 minutes. The tube outlet block/fitting appears to be
welded
to the tank, so no removing the tube to replace or repair it --
without
some fancy torch work INSIDE the body of the machine (before you say
it... NO! I won't G)

Thanks,
Lloyd

Is there a handy place to plumb in an outboard motor primer bulb?

jsw

"Jim Wilkins" fired this volley in news:jn4nt6$qhh$1
@dont-email.me:

Is there a handy place to plumb in an outboard motor primer bulb?


Hey! That's an idea! I had thought about a small plunger pump (say, up on
the dash), but the bulbs are cheap, and easy to replace.

NeeeexxxxT! G

Lloyd

On Mon, 23 Apr 2012 17:06:22 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Someone here was a certified forklift repair tech. I've lost the
history.

I bought an old (1978) ClarkLift 2000lb machine to help moving projects
around the shop. Got it for 3K delivered, and it runs well and is dry
everywhere (!).

It has only one problem that someone else hasn't already bypassed,
removed, or re-engineered -- The dip tube in the fuel tank must
(probably) has a hole in it. It loses its prime after sitting for as
little as 10 minutes. The tube outlet block/fitting appears to be welded
to the tank, so no removing the tube to replace or repair it -- without
some fancy torch work INSIDE the body of the machine (before you say
it... NO! I won't G)

It has an electric pump installed to replace the engine-driven one, and
the electric apparently can self-prime, but not fast enough to suit the
"start-and-go" mentality. So right now, I'm throwing an ounce of fuel
into the air cleaner intake to get it started. No biggy, but I don't
want to start removing stuff until next week, after I get some big pieces
moved.

SO... Is this tank welded in? Can it be removed, cleaned, replaced? If
not, I think the strategy would be to build a box inside the bustle, and
install a new (maybe smaller) tank, with the top of the draw tube about
level with the carb.

Thanks,
Lloyd
Drill a new hole in the tank and make a new "tube outlet block
fitting" that bolts to the tank with a new dip tube in it.

fired this volley in
news
Drill a new hole in the tank and make a new "tube outlet block
fitting" that bolts to the tank with a new dip tube in it.

Another idea... If I can get a drill to where it needs to be, that would
work.

Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
fired this volley in
news
Drill a new hole in the tank and make a new "tube outlet block
fitting" that bolts to the tank with a new dip tube in it.

Another idea... If I can get a drill to where it needs to be, that
would
work.

Lloyd

Can you slide a piece of hobby-store telescoping brass tubing into the
original tube and solder it?

I recently modified two garden sprayers to replace the hose, valve and
nozzle with a kitchen sink spray hose by sliding in a larger outlet
tube with a compression -to- NPT fitting on the end. The original hose
and outlet fitting restrict flow too much with the spray hose simply
spliced on.

The smaller is now a back yard emergency fire extinguisher and
hand/eye washer, the larger is for taking showers with water heated in
a kettle on the wood stove when the power is out (otherwise another
fire extinguisher). The sink spray heads mark them as not for use with
chemicals.

One of the sprayers used a separate hollow bolt and nut for the
pressure-tight outlet fitting. The bolt had a tab extending radially
from the head to keep it from rotating. Perhaps you could weld an
extension handle to a hollowed bolt that's long enough to position it
in your new drilled hole from the filler opening.

The original cap nut outside compresses the rubber washer under it
enough to seal the new outlet tube.

jsw

"Jim Wilkins" fired this volley in news:jn64p6$vu7$1
@dont-email.me:

Can you slide a piece of hobby-store telescoping brass tubing into the
original tube and solder it?

Maybe not hard tubing, because it's an elbow at the tank -- goes in the
side at the very top, then down. But I _might_ be able to do the sewer
pipe trick, and line it with some flexible tubing.

Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
"Jim Wilkins" fired this volley in
news:jn64p6$vu7$1
@dont-email.me:

Can you slide a piece of hobby-store telescoping brass tubing into
the
original tube and solder it?

Maybe not hard tubing, because it's an elbow at the tank -- goes in
the
side at the very top, then down. But I _might_ be able to do the
sewer
pipe trick, and line it with some flexible tubing.

Lloyd

Is it straight far enough to cut it and install a flare or compression
fitting, as I did on the garden sprayer?

jsw

On Mon, 23 Apr 2012 17:06:22 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Someone here was a certified forklift repair tech. I've lost the
history.

I bought an old (1978) ClarkLift 2000lb machine to help moving projects
around the shop. Got it for 3K delivered, and it runs well and is dry
everywhere (!).

It has only one problem that someone else hasn't already bypassed,
removed, or re-engineered -- The dip tube in the fuel tank must
(probably) has a hole in it. It loses its prime after sitting for as
little as 10 minutes. The tube outlet block/fitting appears to be welded
to the tank, so no removing the tube to replace or repair it -- without
some fancy torch work INSIDE the body of the machine (before you say
it... NO! I won't G)

Carburetors seldom "lose their prime", Lloyd. When they do, it's
usually a cracked float bowl, with fuel spilling all over the engine.
You'd probably notice that, especially after the fire. g


It has an electric pump installed to replace the engine-driven one, and
the electric apparently can self-prime, but not fast enough to suit the
"start-and-go" mentality. So right now, I'm throwing an ounce of fuel
into the air cleaner intake to get it started. No biggy, but I don't
want to start removing stuff until next week, after I get some big pieces
moved.

The ounce of fuel into the carb every time will wash the oil off the
cylinder walls and you'll need to rebuild much sooner. I recommend
stopping that practice today.


SO... Is this tank welded in? Can it be removed, cleaned, replaced? If
not, I think the strategy would be to build a box inside the bustle, and
install a new (maybe smaller) tank, with the top of the draw tube about
level with the carb.

Yeah, you could do that, but first look at the carb and/or how you're
starting it. Does it have an automatic or manual choke? Does it have
a foot throttle or lever? Perhaps it needs a quick pump (or two?)
prior to starting. Are you doing that now?

The Clark tech will know more. I'm just a retired auto mech.

--
That's the thing about needs. Sometimes, when you get them met,
you don't need them anymore. -- Michael Patrick King