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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Lawnmower box repair
"Christopher Tidy" wrote ...Is it a dumb idea to think of trying to repair the bottom with a sheet of 1 mm stainless, for permanence? I have some cobalt drills that will make the holes, but will SS sheet be so stiff that it'll be too hard to bend to shape (right now, I don't have the stainless sheet). Also, is there any advantage to using a thick backing washer with pop rivets, when it comes to the vibration resistance of rivets used in sheet of this thickness, or might it make things worse? Chris This bucket is 0.050" stainless bent to shape by hand: https://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/...65918437561074 It's strong enough to dig and move sand and rocks. 22 gauge galvanized steel is a lot easier to bend and may be strong enough if supported all around. How thick is the original metal? jsw |
#2
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Lawnmower box repair
On Jan 18, 12:17*am, "Jim Wilkins" wrote:
They are used porta-power type rams from a second-hand store that happened to have just what I needed when I needed it, at $20 for the larger ones and $15 for the smaller. As they are single-acting push cylinders I had to make the linkage to pull on the bucket. I located them as far back as possible to reduce weight on the front wheels and axles. It's a Sears garden tractor, more heavily built than a lawnmower but still barely adequate for this conversion. Ah, really ingenious! -Jim, how did you bend those stainless bucket -edges? Clamped the sheet and hammered it over the edge of the bench? Yes. A buddy traded me a scrapped welding table with a steel plate top. IIRC I clamped a piece of 3" channel under the edge as reinforcement and extra inertial mass, the same principle as a dolly or bucking tool. I pounded on a block of wood instead of directly on the sheet to avoid peening it and to extend the force of the blows right up to the bend line so the bent flange stays flat. I think I placed an I beam over the sheet to keep it from bouncing up behind the bend line. Thanks for that advice. The idea of clamping something under the edge, for inertia and stiffness, sounds like a good one. I'll have to try that. I have a pretty neat hammer that I bought in Germany, because most of the English hammers are crap (loose heads, particularly). Based on thoughts here, I think I'll just go with the best material price. I just saw some 1.5 mm galvanised MS, but I think in a 30" length, that could be a challenge to bend. Best wishes, Chris |
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