My lawnmower has been on the fritz all summer. It started cutting out when
it was running. I took it to the local neighborhood guy (he has a
landscaping business & fixes mowers on the side) and he "tuned it up" and
etc. and it ran fine. For awhile.

Then the pull rope broke. I replaced it. It ran fine.

Then a couple weeks later it became difficult to start. As in 15-20 pulls
and a shoulder almost out of joint trying. And when it was turned off it
wouldn't start again.

I took it back. He said it was the starter, and replaced it. Cost $80 for
that and a wheel lock which was broken.

I took it home. I couldn't start it. I took it back. He said it was
fine--he could start it on the third pull. Sometimes the first.

Meantime I'd borrowed my neighbor's mower which was indeed possible for me
to start on the first pull. In fact, I often didn't even have to pull the
rope out all the way.

I still can't start mine and am at my wits end. I think he doesn't know how
to fix it, and doesn't see the problem. He says "its old" and like old
things & people is now more difficult to start. I can't agree.

Oh, and by the way, he let me try to start his lawn mower. I had no
trouble. The rope gives a lot of resistance, but you can feel it engaging
the motor. I don't get that kind of feedback from mine.

Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine.

Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and have
to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my arm
yanking on this crank.

My best advise: Buy a Honda


"Betsy" wrote in message
...
My lawnmower has been on the fritz all summer. It started cutting out
when it was running. I took it to the local neighborhood guy (he has a
landscaping business & fixes mowers on the side) and he "tuned it up" and
etc. and it ran fine. For awhile.

Then the pull rope broke. I replaced it. It ran fine.

Then a couple weeks later it became difficult to start. As in 15-20 pulls
and a shoulder almost out of joint trying. And when it was turned off it
wouldn't start again.

I took it back. He said it was the starter, and replaced it. Cost $80
for that and a wheel lock which was broken.

I took it home. I couldn't start it. I took it back. He said it was
fine--he could start it on the third pull. Sometimes the first.

Meantime I'd borrowed my neighbor's mower which was indeed possible for me
to start on the first pull. In fact, I often didn't even have to pull the
rope out all the way.

I still can't start mine and am at my wits end. I think he doesn't know
how to fix it, and doesn't see the problem. He says "its old" and like
old things & people is now more difficult to start. I can't agree.

Oh, and by the way, he let me try to start his lawn mower. I had no
trouble. The rope gives a lot of resistance, but you can feel it engaging
the motor. I don't get that kind of feedback from mine.

Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine.

Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and
have to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my
arm yanking on this crank.

"Betsy" wrote in message
...
My lawnmower has been on the fritz all summer. It started cutting out
when it was running. I took it to the local neighborhood guy (he has a
landscaping business & fixes mowers on the side) and he "tuned it up" and
etc. and it ran fine. For awhile.

Then the pull rope broke. I replaced it. It ran fine.

Then a couple weeks later it became difficult to start. As in 15-20 pulls
and a shoulder almost out of joint trying. And when it was turned off it
wouldn't start again.

I took it back. He said it was the starter, and replaced it. Cost $80
for that and a wheel lock which was broken.

I took it home. I couldn't start it. I took it back. He said it was
fine--he could start it on the third pull. Sometimes the first.

Meantime I'd borrowed my neighbor's mower which was indeed possible for me
to start on the first pull. In fact, I often didn't even have to pull the
rope out all the way.

I still can't start mine and am at my wits end. I think he doesn't know
how to fix it, and doesn't see the problem. He says "its old" and like
old things & people is now more difficult to start. I can't agree.

Oh, and by the way, he let me try to start his lawn mower. I had no
trouble. The rope gives a lot of resistance, but you can feel it engaging
the motor. I don't get that kind of feedback from mine.

Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine.

Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and
have to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my
arm yanking on this crank.


Brand, model, age, size of mower and engine?

Betsy wrote:
My lawnmower has been on the fritz all summer. It started cutting out when
it was running. I took it to the local neighborhood guy (he has a
landscaping business & fixes mowers on the side) and he "tuned it up" and
etc. and it ran fine. For awhile.

Then the pull rope broke. I replaced it. It ran fine.

Then a couple weeks later it became difficult to start. As in 15-20 pulls
and a shoulder almost out of joint trying. And when it was turned off it
wouldn't start again.

I took it back. He said it was the starter, and replaced it. Cost $80 for
that and a wheel lock which was broken.

I took it home. I couldn't start it. I took it back. He said it was
fine--he could start it on the third pull. Sometimes the first.

Meantime I'd borrowed my neighbor's mower which was indeed possible for me
to start on the first pull. In fact, I often didn't even have to pull the
rope out all the way.

I still can't start mine and am at my wits end. I think he doesn't know how
to fix it, and doesn't see the problem. He says "its old" and like old
things & people is now more difficult to start. I can't agree.

Oh, and by the way, he let me try to start his lawn mower. I had no
trouble. The rope gives a lot of resistance, but you can feel it engaging
the motor. I don't get that kind of feedback from mine.

Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine.

Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and have
to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my arm
yanking on this crank.



When was the last time you replaced the spark plug? Maybe it's time to
do so again.

Does it smell "gassy" when you pull it over and it doesn't start? If it
doesn't by the third or fourth pull then if it has a choke, that isn't
working, or if it doesn't have one but uses a primer bulb you press two
or three times, that isn't doing it's thing.

Try buying a spray can of automobile "starter fluid" and spray some into
the air cleaner, then try and start it. If it fires right up, then you
have a choke or primer problem.

Let us know what works and doesn't,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

Thanks. It has a primer bulb. I push it about 10 times (at his
suggestion). I used to only have to push it 3 times. It smells gassy when
I pull it and it doesn't start. I have wondered if I flooded it, so have
come back and tried to start it without pushing the bulb. No dice.

He maintains the plug is fine. I witnessed him start it several times
today. He has no problem. But he is a lot stronger than me. But I used to
have no problem with it, either. I just don't get it.

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...
Betsy wrote:
My lawnmower has been on the fritz all summer. It started cutting out
when it was running. I took it to the local neighborhood guy (he has a
landscaping business & fixes mowers on the side) and he "tuned it up" and
etc. and it ran fine. For awhile.

Then the pull rope broke. I replaced it. It ran fine.

Then a couple weeks later it became difficult to start. As in 15-20
pulls and a shoulder almost out of joint trying. And when it was turned
off it wouldn't start again.

I took it back. He said it was the starter, and replaced it. Cost $80
for that and a wheel lock which was broken.

I took it home. I couldn't start it. I took it back. He said it was
fine--he could start it on the third pull. Sometimes the first.

Meantime I'd borrowed my neighbor's mower which was indeed possible for
me to start on the first pull. In fact, I often didn't even have to pull
the rope out all the way.

I still can't start mine and am at my wits end. I think he doesn't know
how to fix it, and doesn't see the problem. He says "its old" and like
old things & people is now more difficult to start. I can't agree.

Oh, and by the way, he let me try to start his lawn mower. I had no
trouble. The rope gives a lot of resistance, but you can feel it
engaging the motor. I don't get that kind of feedback from mine.

Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine.

Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and
have to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my
arm yanking on this crank.



When was the last time you replaced the spark plug? Maybe it's time to do
so again.

Does it smell "gassy" when you pull it over and it doesn't start? If it
doesn't by the third or fourth pull then if it has a choke, that isn't
working, or if it doesn't have one but uses a primer bulb you press two or
three times, that isn't doing it's thing.

Try buying a spray can of automobile "starter fluid" and spray some into
the air cleaner, then try and start it. If it fires right up, then you
have a choke or primer problem.

Let us know what works and doesn't,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

"Betsy" wrote in message

Oh, and by the way, he let me try to start his lawn mower. I had no
trouble. The rope gives a lot of resistance, but you can feel it engaging
the motor. I don't get that kind of feedback from mine.

Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine.

Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and
have to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my
arm yanking on this crank.

He said it is old, and he may be right. If you are not getting much
resistance, it could be because there is not enough compression, meaning it
is old, and worn. Add to that an old plug, weak magneto = no start. could
be a few other things also. Just how old is it? What engine?

It's not very old--2000. And the lawnmower he owns is 15 years old, and
started easily. There is a lot more initial resistance on the starter rope,
but give it a good pull and it engages the engine.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
.. .

"Betsy" wrote in message

Oh, and by the way, he let me try to start his lawn mower. I had no
trouble. The rope gives a lot of resistance, but you can feel it
engaging the motor. I don't get that kind of feedback from mine.

Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine.

Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and
have to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my
arm yanking on this crank.

He said it is old, and he may be right. If you are not getting much
resistance, it could be because there is not enough compression, meaning
it is old, and worn. Add to that an old plug, weak magneto = no start.
could be a few other things also. Just how old is it? What engine?

On Mon, 5 Sep 2005 17:22:12 -0400, "Betsy" wrote:

It's not very old--2000. And the lawnmower he owns is 15 years old, and
started easily. There is a lot more initial resistance on the starter rope,
but give it a good pull and it engages the engine.


From your description it sounds like the engine in your lawn mower is
worn. As the engine wears compression is reduced which causes you to
have to pull the rope harder or faster than you had to when the engine
was new. The only practical solution to this is to replace the motor.
It can be repaired but with parts and labor prices being what they are
it is often just cheaper to replace it.

Several have suggested that you use automotive starting fluid. This
is an excellent suggestion and will probably get you several more
years out of this mower. Just spray some starting fluid in the air
filter and pull the rope. Should start up like a charm.

Steve B.

I'll try it. Where do I get it--Pep boys, etc.? Is it called "automotive
starting fluid"? When you say "in the air filter" is that on the filter
itself, when removed (haven't done that yet) or in the housing when the
filter is removed, or where. Sounds very mystifying to me. Is there a web
page that might have a diagram?

Thanks.


"Steve B." wrote in message
...
On Mon, 5 Sep 2005 17:22:12 -0400, "Betsy" wrote:

It's not very old--2000. And the lawnmower he owns is 15 years old, and
started easily. There is a lot more initial resistance on the starter
rope,
but give it a good pull and it engages the engine.


From your description it sounds like the engine in your lawn mower is
worn. As the engine wears compression is reduced which causes you to
have to pull the rope harder or faster than you had to when the engine
was new. The only practical solution to this is to replace the motor.
It can be repaired but with parts and labor prices being what they are
it is often just cheaper to replace it.

Several have suggested that you use automotive starting fluid. This
is an excellent suggestion and will probably get you several more
years out of this mower. Just spray some starting fluid in the air
filter and pull the rope. Should start up like a charm.

Steve B.

"Betsy" wrote in message
...
My lawnmower has been on the fritz all summer. It started cutting out
when it was running. I took it to the local neighborhood guy (he has a
landscaping business & fixes mowers on the side) and he "tuned it up" and
etc. and it ran fine. For awhile.

Then the pull rope broke. I replaced it. It ran fine.

Then a couple weeks later it became difficult to start. As in 15-20 pulls
and a shoulder almost out of joint trying. And when it was turned off it
wouldn't start again.

I took it back. He said it was the starter, and replaced it. Cost $80
for that and a wheel lock which was broken.

I took it home. I couldn't start it. I took it back. He said it was
fine--he could start it on the third pull. Sometimes the first.

Meantime I'd borrowed my neighbor's mower which was indeed possible for me
to start on the first pull. In fact, I often didn't even have to pull the
rope out all the way.

I still can't start mine and am at my wits end. I think he doesn't know
how to fix it, and doesn't see the problem. He says "its old" and like
old things & people is now more difficult to start. I can't agree.

Oh, and by the way, he let me try to start his lawn mower. I had no
trouble. The rope gives a lot of resistance, but you can feel it engaging
the motor. I don't get that kind of feedback from mine.

Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine.

Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and
have to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my
arm yanking on this crank.

I've had the same problem but in my case the gas was old, may have had
water in it. If you dont close the
seal tight, condensation will foul the fuel.

"Betsy" wrote in message
...
Thanks. It has a primer bulb. I push it about 10 times (at his
suggestion). I used to only have to push it 3 times. It smells gassy
when I pull it and it doesn't start. I have wondered if I flooded it, so
have come back and tried to start it without pushing the bulb. No dice.

Behind the bulb is a small tube that the gas flows through. These tubes
deteriorate. Replace it.
Also start with a full tank of gas - makes it easier to suck the gas up.


He maintains the plug is fine. I witnessed him start it several times
today. He has no problem. But he is a lot stronger than me. But I used
to have no problem with it, either. I just don't get it.

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...
Betsy wrote:
My lawnmower has been on the fritz all summer. It started cutting out
when it was running. I took it to the local neighborhood guy (he has a
landscaping business & fixes mowers on the side) and he "tuned it up"
and etc. and it ran fine. For awhile.

Then the pull rope broke. I replaced it. It ran fine.

Then a couple weeks later it became difficult to start. As in 15-20
pulls and a shoulder almost out of joint trying. And when it was turned
off it wouldn't start again.

I took it back. He said it was the starter, and replaced it. Cost $80
for that and a wheel lock which was broken.

I took it home. I couldn't start it. I took it back. He said it was
fine--he could start it on the third pull. Sometimes the first.

Meantime I'd borrowed my neighbor's mower which was indeed possible for
me to start on the first pull. In fact, I often didn't even have to
pull the rope out all the way.

I still can't start mine and am at my wits end. I think he doesn't know
how to fix it, and doesn't see the problem. He says "its old" and like
old things & people is now more difficult to start. I can't agree.

Oh, and by the way, he let me try to start his lawn mower. I had no
trouble. The rope gives a lot of resistance, but you can feel it
engaging the motor. I don't get that kind of feedback from mine.

Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine.

Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and
have to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy
my arm yanking on this crank.



When was the last time you replaced the spark plug? Maybe it's time to do
so again.

Does it smell "gassy" when you pull it over and it doesn't start? If it
doesn't by the third or fourth pull then if it has a choke, that isn't
working, or if it doesn't have one but uses a primer bulb you press two
or three times, that isn't doing it's thing.

Try buying a spray can of automobile "starter fluid" and spray some into
the air cleaner, then try and start it. If it fires right up, then you
have a choke or primer problem.

Let us know what works and doesn't,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

"Betsy" wrote in message
...
My lawnmower has been on the fritz all summer. It started cutting out
when it was running. I took it to the local neighborhood guy (he has a
landscaping business & fixes mowers on the side) and he "tuned it up" and
etc. and it ran fine. For awhile.

Then the pull rope broke. I replaced it. It ran fine.

Then a couple weeks later it became difficult to start. As in 15-20 pulls
and a shoulder almost out of joint trying. And when it was turned off it
wouldn't start again.

I took it back. He said it was the starter, and replaced it. Cost $80
for that and a wheel lock which was broken.


The "starter" ??? Doesn't make sense if this is a "pull start" machine.
Unless he meant the recoil starter - the spring loaded mechanism that holds
your pull cord.
Maybe the "cogs" are not engaging - this would account for why he can start
it and you can't. Before actually pulling, give a quick tug on the rope to
engage the "cogs" - make it a short tug and you shouls quickly feel
resistance.

"Betsy" wrote in message
...
Thanks. It has a primer bulb. I push it about 10 times (at his
suggestion). I used to only have to push it 3 times. It smells gassy
when
I pull it and it doesn't start. I have wondered if I flooded it, so have
come back and tried to start it without pushing the bulb. No dice.

He maintains the plug is fine. I witnessed him start it several times
today. He has no problem. But he is a lot stronger than me. But I used
to
have no problem with it, either. I just don't get it.

A plug is less than 5 bucks, and the wrench to change it yourself is another
5, if you don't have one already. Any of the big-box places will have them.
Need to know engine size, brand, and year. If you can see any numbers on the
old plug, write them down, or if you have a wrench, take the old plug with
you. I'd definitely try that before spending more money elsewhere. It can't
hurt, and it may help.

aem sends...

On Mon, 5 Sep 2005 15:07:40 -0400, "Betsy" wrote:
(snip)

Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and have
to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my arm
yanking on this crank.



that sort of thing is why I went to a battery powered electric.

On Mon, 5 Sep 2005 17:59:59 -0400, "Betsy" wrote:

I'll try it. Where do I get it--Pep boys, etc.? Is it called "automotive
starting fluid"? When you say "in the air filter" is that on the filter
itself, when removed (haven't done that yet) or in the housing when the
filter is removed, or where. Sounds very mystifying to me. Is there a web
page that might have a diagram?

Thanks.



It is called "Starting Fluid" and is available in the auto department
of most any store that has an auto department. It is a typical spray
can and costs a couple of bucks.

You haven't told us what kind of mower you have (and it probably
wouldn't help much if you did) but you air filter has an opening
somewhere that it pulls the air in from. Spray wherever the air will
be sucked in. Not tooo much... just a coupe seconds.

I have an old mower myself that absolutely will not start without
starting fluid but starts on half a pull with it.

Steve B.

On Mon, 5 Sep 2005 15:07:40 -0400, "Betsy" wrote:

My lawnmower has been on the fritz all summer. It started cutting out when

Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine.

Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and have
to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my arm
yanking on this crank.

You sound like you're game. Read through the Mower Repair FAQ before you do
anything else like. I'm sure your answer will be in there.

http://www.eio.com/repairfaq/REPAIR/F_lmfaq.html

I think you're getting gas so the logical alternative is to check the spark and
I agree that a properly running mower more often than not, starts on the first
pull.

best of luck with it Bets,
-BH.

Thanks, and thanks to all who have offered help!

"William Holiday" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 5 Sep 2005 15:07:40 -0400, "Betsy" wrote:

My lawnmower has been on the fritz all summer. It started cutting out
when

Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine.

Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and
have
to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my arm
yanking on this crank.

You sound like you're game. Read through the Mower Repair FAQ before you
do
anything else like. I'm sure your answer will be in there.

http://www.eio.com/repairfaq/REPAIR/F_lmfaq.html

I think you're getting gas so the logical alternative is to check the
spark and
I agree that a properly running mower more often than not, starts on the
first
pull.

best of luck with it Bets,
-BH.

Betsy wrote:

Thanks, and thanks to all who have offered help!



This thread made my twisted mind conger up yet another good reason why
those ardant feminists who'd like to see the world turn into a place
where all babies are cloned and born female are barking* up the wrong tree.

You've proven why men are and will always be a necessary evil; Your
repairMAN can start that well worn lousy compression engine, but you, a
woman, lack the physiognomy to do so yourself.

Long live all muscular male starter rope pullers!!

Jeff (Ducking.....)

* Any implicastion with female canines was unintended.

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

Buy a sheep!



"Betsy" wrote in message
...
My lawnmower has been on the fritz all summer. It started cutting out
when it was running. I took it to the local neighborhood guy (he has a
landscaping business & fixes mowers on the side) and he "tuned it up" and
etc. and it ran fine. For awhile.

Then the pull rope broke. I replaced it. It ran fine.

Then a couple weeks later it became difficult to start. As in 15-20 pulls
and a shoulder almost out of joint trying. And when it was turned off it
wouldn't start again.

I took it back. He said it was the starter, and replaced it. Cost $80
for that and a wheel lock which was broken.

I took it home. I couldn't start it. I took it back. He said it was
fine--he could start it on the third pull. Sometimes the first.

Meantime I'd borrowed my neighbor's mower which was indeed possible for me
to start on the first pull. In fact, I often didn't even have to pull the
rope out all the way.

I still can't start mine and am at my wits end. I think he doesn't know
how to fix it, and doesn't see the problem. He says "its old" and like
old things & people is now more difficult to start. I can't agree.

Oh, and by the way, he let me try to start his lawn mower. I had no
trouble. The rope gives a lot of resistance, but you can feel it engaging
the motor. I don't get that kind of feedback from mine.

Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine.

Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and
have to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my
arm yanking on this crank.

In my old neighborhood the best repairperson was a woman.


"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...
Betsy wrote:

Thanks, and thanks to all who have offered help!



This thread made my twisted mind conger up yet another good reason why
those ardant feminists who'd like to see the world turn into a place where
all babies are cloned and born female are barking* up the wrong tree.

You've proven why men are and will always be a necessary evil; Your
repairMAN can start that well worn lousy compression engine, but you, a
woman, lack the physiognomy to do so yourself.

Long live all muscular male starter rope pullers!!

Jeff (Ducking.....)

* Any implicastion with female canines was unintended.

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

Betsy,
I know you have tried several things, so you might not object to a few more ideas.

First, try removing the air filter from your mower, and see how that works. If the
problem goes away, you have a clogged or dirty air filter, so replace it.

Second, replace the gas in your mower's tank with fresh stuff. If the gas has been
sitting there for many weeks (hopefully not from last season), it has probably gone
bad. In the future, use a product called 'stabil' in your gas to keep it from going stale.

Thirdly, did you completely run the gas out of you mower last season. If any gas
remained behind, it would probably turn to shellac, and plug up you carboretor. In
that case, you will need to have it cleaned by a mechanic.

You basically need only three things to start an engine. Fuel, spark, and the correct air
mixture. I have covered some of the overlooked problems. Be aware
that using 'starting fluid' on a regular basis can deteriorate your engine and carboretor. It
attacks all the plastic parts and does other damage, as well.

Hope this helps,

Sherwin D.

Betsy wrote:

My lawnmower has been on the fritz all summer. It started cutting out when
it was running. I took it to the local neighborhood guy (he has a
landscaping business & fixes mowers on the side) and he "tuned it up" and
etc. and it ran fine. For awhile.

Then the pull rope broke. I replaced it. It ran fine.

Then a couple weeks later it became difficult to start. As in 15-20 pulls
and a shoulder almost out of joint trying. And when it was turned off it
wouldn't start again.

I took it back. He said it was the starter, and replaced it. Cost $80 for
that and a wheel lock which was broken.

I took it home. I couldn't start it. I took it back. He said it was
fine--he could start it on the third pull. Sometimes the first.

Meantime I'd borrowed my neighbor's mower which was indeed possible for me
to start on the first pull. In fact, I often didn't even have to pull the
rope out all the way.

I still can't start mine and am at my wits end. I think he doesn't know how
to fix it, and doesn't see the problem. He says "its old" and like old
things & people is now more difficult to start. I can't agree.

Oh, and by the way, he let me try to start his lawn mower. I had no
trouble. The rope gives a lot of resistance, but you can feel it engaging
the motor. I don't get that kind of feedback from mine.

Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine.

Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and have
to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my arm
yanking on this crank.

Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.

It takes many many many many many more pulls. Then seems to accidentally
start just when one doesn't expect.

Could it be the plug?

"benzette" wrote in message
...
Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls to
start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new premium
or drain the other gas out.

benzette wrote:
Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.


Premium gas won't ignite any easier than regular gas in a lawn mower engine.

Premium gas has a higher octane rating which means it suffers less
preigniting from the heat of compression in high compression auto and
aircraft engines.

It'll just waste Betsy's money, Benzette

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...
benzette wrote:
Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.


Premium gas won't ignite any easier than regular gas in a lawn mower
engine.

Premium gas has a higher octane rating which means it suffers less
preigniting from the heat of compression in high compression auto and
aircraft engines.

It'll just waste Betsy's money, Benzette

Jeff



Jeff is right, the difference between regular and premium is minimal.

And to be honest, as most gas stations sell such a small amount of premium
gas compared to regular.

The regular is usually fresher and still fully potent.
Many times the premium is already weeks old, and slightly dead.

People who have high compression engines that need the premium will know
what I mean.

But at the low compressions in a lawnmower it doesn't make any difference
anyway.
Save the 20 cents and buy the regular.

But you can add a very small amount of gas line deicer (PURE methyl/ethelene
hydrate/ alcohol) if you have a bit in the garage.
(NOT the rubbing alcohol from you medicine cabinet that already contains
water)

But mix it into the gas can as you only need a few drops per lawnmower tank
full. (quart)

It helps the gas fire a slight bit hotter and help pass any
water/condensation/scale through the carburetor
It may not help with your starting, but it can't hurt it.

Then pour the rest of the bottle into your car gas tank.



It may not pay to fix it, but I would bring the lawnmower somewhere else to
see if anyone else can locate the problem your neighbor seems to be missing.

It could be, dirt in carb, bad/ misadjusted/weak ignition module, pinched
spark plug wire, bent flyweel key, bad plug.
But it's impossible to tell from a usenet post.

These things are almost all cheap for parts to fix, but labour could cost
$100 or more.

It would help to know if the motor is a briggs & stratton, tecumeth, or some
other make, but I'm going to assume Briggs.

Offhand I'd check the spark plug wire is not pinched/cut in the
starter-flywheel shroud where it goes out to the spark plug since that was
removed shortly before the problems began. (to change the pullcord)
Even an experienced person can do this easily if they aren't careful as
there is only a slight bend in one spot for the wire to pass through without
being damaged

If you can get the mower into the dark, try to start it and watch to see if
little faint blue sparks may be going right through the wire to the engine
case

Depending on the mower this wire can be part of the coil assembly, or
replaceable separately.
And sometimes just a bit of black electrical tape/shrinkwrap over the wire
can get you going again.

But as already said, this is just an internet guess.

AMUN

"Betsy" wrote in message
...
It takes many many many many many more pulls. Then seems to accidentally
start just when one doesn't expect.

Could it be the plug?


Could be, but from what you described yesterday, it sound like low
compression. Worn out. Time for a rebuild or a new one.

Amun wrote:


But as already said, this is just an internet guess.

AMUN




All of your crappy advice is just a guess. You spelled internet wrong.
In your case it's u-n-e-d-u-c-a-t-e-d.

--
WARNING:

Do NOT under any circumstances take advice from an idiot named AMUN.

AMUN is a clueless moron regarding tile, electrical and various other
construction issues. As things go AMUN will (thankfully) dissapear
as his kind usually does when confronted with their bad advice by
those who are knowledgeable in their respective fields.
Until then - BEWARE

Premium gas has nothing to do with her lawnmower. It is for high compression
engines, which lawnmowers don't have. Don't waste you money on this. The
key issue is to get rid of any stale gas with fresh gas. Low octane gas is good enough. I wonder
if Betsy is just ignoring my suggestions, or she missed my
comments?

Sherwin D.

benzette wrote:

Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.

Amun wrote:

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...
benzette wrote:
Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.


Premium gas won't ignite any easier than regular gas in a lawn mower
engine.

Premium gas has a higher octane rating which means it suffers less
preigniting from the heat of compression in high compression auto and
aircraft engines.

It'll just waste Betsy's money, Benzette

Jeff


Jeff is right, the difference between regular and premium is minimal.

And to be honest, as most gas stations sell such a small amount of premium
gas compared to regular.

The regular is usually fresher and still fully potent.
Many times the premium is already weeks old, and slightly dead.

Not that it matters for her problem, but gas does not go bad in few
weeks under normal conditions. A month or two would be more of
a likelihood of such a problem. If she had her gas in the tank for that
time period, it could have gone bad. That is why I suggested she put
in a product like Stabil just after buying the gas. If her gas is that old,
it's too late to protect it, so she should dispose of it and get fresh stuff.



People who have high compression engines that need the premium will know
what I mean.

But at the low compressions in a lawnmower it doesn't make any difference
anyway.
Save the 20 cents and buy the regular.

But you can add a very small amount of gas line deicer (PURE methyl/ethelene
hydrate/ alcohol) if you have a bit in the garage.
(NOT the rubbing alcohol from you medicine cabinet that already contains
water)

Most gasolines already have about 10% alcohol in them, at least in my part of
the USA. If she bought her gas without the alcohol in it, she is better off going to
a different gas station who might not have water in the bottom of their tanks, or
finding a station that sells gasahol. My vote goes for stale gas, not gas with water in it.



But mix it into the gas can as you only need a few drops per lawnmower tank
full. (quart)

It helps the gas fire a slight bit hotter and help pass any
water/condensation/scale through the carburetor
It may not help with your starting, but it can't hurt it.

I would recommend a product called SeaFoam, available from most
auto stores to treat the gasoline to both clean the carburetor and stabilize
the gas (similar to the Stabil product I mentioned earlier). If she did not
run the gas out of her engine last season, these additives probably won't
work, and she will need to have the carburetor cleaned by a mechanic.



Then pour the rest of the bottle into your car gas tank.

It may not pay to fix it, but I would bring the lawnmower somewhere else to
see if anyone else can locate the problem your neighbor seems to be missing.

It could be, dirt in carb, bad/ misadjusted/weak ignition module, pinched
spark plug wire, bent flyweel key, bad plug.
But it's impossible to tell from a usenet post.

These things are almost all cheap for parts to fix, but labour could cost
$100 or more.

It would help to know if the motor is a briggs & stratton, tecumeth, or some
other make, but I'm going to assume Briggs.

Offhand I'd check the spark plug wire is not pinched/cut in the
starter-flywheel shroud where it goes out to the spark plug since that was
removed shortly before the problems began. (to change the pullcord)
Even an experienced person can do this easily if they aren't careful as
there is only a slight bend in one spot for the wire to pass through without
being damaged

If you can get the mower into the dark, try to start it and watch to see if
little faint blue sparks may be going right through the wire to the engine
case

Depending on the mower this wire can be part of the coil assembly, or
replaceable separately.
And sometimes just a bit of black electrical tape/shrinkwrap over the wire
can get you going again.

A broken ignition wire is highly unlikely, but not impossible. I would do a more
positive test of taking the plug out of the mower, but leaving it connected to it's
lead wire. Then set the body of the plug next to a large metal surface of the mower.
Pulling the starter cord should then produce a healthy spark at the plug. If it doesn't,
she has an ignition problem such as a bad plug, ignition coil, etc.



But as already said, this is just an internet guess.

AMUN

I'm not ignoring anyone. Thanks for any help you've offered. I bought a
can of starter spray last night, and next time I need to cut the grass, I'm
going to try it.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Premium gas has nothing to do with her lawnmower. It is for high
compression
engines, which lawnmowers don't have. Don't waste you money on this. The
key issue is to get rid of any stale gas with fresh gas. Low octane gas
is good enough. I wonder
if Betsy is just ignoring my suggestions, or she missed my
comments?

Sherwin D.

benzette wrote:

Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.

I had a lawnmower (a Murray) last 10 years and the next one lasted 2.
They do NOT make them well anymore. Try removing the carb and look for
the clogged needle. You should not have to push the primer bulb more
than 3-5x.

A can of carb cleaner is 2 bucks. Soak it overnight to remove deposits.
Never let the mower come to less than 1/4 tank of gas.

Check your oil level too... many mowers have a low-oil cutout switch
which won't let it start or run if the oil level is too low. But do not
overfill your oil either.


Betsy wrote:
It's not very old--2000. And the lawnmower he owns is 15 years old, and
started easily. There is a lot more initial resistance on the starter rope,
but give it a good pull and it engages the engine.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
.. .

"Betsy" wrote in message

Oh, and by the way, he let me try to start his lawn mower. I had no
trouble. The rope gives a lot of resistance, but you can feel it
engaging the motor. I don't get that kind of feedback from mine.

Yet he insists there is nothing wrong with mine.

Does anybody have any ideas before I take it to another repair shop and
have to pay another $80? I am pretty strong, but unwilling to destroy my
arm yanking on this crank.

He said it is old, and he may be right. If you are not getting much
resistance, it could be because there is not enough compression, meaning
it is old, and worn. Add to that an old plug, weak magneto = no start.
could be a few other things also. Just how old is it? What engine?

Well, it seems like you are listening to the wrong people.

Starter spray might get your mower started, and then again, it may not.
It is certainly not a long term fix, and using it repeatedly can damage
your mower. Did you check the other things like the air filter, spark to
plug, bad gas? If you can't do those things, it's time to take it in for
service. If your engine starts with the starter spray, you can pretty much
rule out the spark plug and electronics, and concentrate on the fuel
quality and air filter.

Sherwin D.

Betsy wrote:

I'm not ignoring anyone. Thanks for any help you've offered. I bought a
can of starter spray last night, and next time I need to cut the grass, I'm
going to try it.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Premium gas has nothing to do with her lawnmower. It is for high
compression
engines, which lawnmowers don't have. Don't waste you money on this. The
key issue is to get rid of any stale gas with fresh gas. Low octane gas
is good enough. I wonder
if Betsy is just ignoring my suggestions, or she missed my
comments?

Sherwin D.

benzette wrote:

Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.

Thanks.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Well, it seems like you are listening to the wrong people.

Starter spray might get your mower started, and then again, it may not.
It is certainly not a long term fix, and using it repeatedly can damage
your mower. Did you check the other things like the air filter, spark to
plug, bad gas? If you can't do those things, it's time to take it in for
service. If your engine starts with the starter spray, you can pretty
much
rule out the spark plug and electronics, and concentrate on the fuel
quality and air filter.

Sherwin D.

Betsy wrote:

I'm not ignoring anyone. Thanks for any help you've offered. I bought a
can of starter spray last night, and next time I need to cut the grass,
I'm
going to try it.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Premium gas has nothing to do with her lawnmower. It is for high
compression
engines, which lawnmowers don't have. Don't waste you money on this.
The
key issue is to get rid of any stale gas with fresh gas. Low octane
gas
is good enough. I wonder
if Betsy is just ignoring my suggestions, or she missed my
comments?

Sherwin D.

benzette wrote:

Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.

It could be, dirt in carb, bad/ misadjusted/weak ignition module,
pinched
spark plug wire, bent flyweel key, bad plug.
But it's impossible to tell from a usenet post.

These things are almost all cheap for parts to fix, but labour could
cost
$100 or more.

It would help to know if the motor is a briggs & stratton, tecumeth, or
some
other make, but I'm going to assume Briggs.

Offhand I'd check the spark plug wire is not pinched/cut in the
starter-flywheel shroud where it goes out to the spark plug since that
was
removed shortly before the problems began. (to change the pullcord)
Even an experienced person can do this easily if they aren't careful as
there is only a slight bend in one spot for the wire to pass through
without
being damaged

If you can get the mower into the dark, try to start it and watch to see
if
little faint blue sparks may be going right through the wire to the
engine
case

Depending on the mower this wire can be part of the coil assembly, or
replaceable separately.
And sometimes just a bit of black electrical tape/shrinkwrap over the
wire
can get you going again.

A broken ignition wire is highly unlikely, but not impossible. I would
do a more
positive test of taking the plug out of the mower, but leaving it
connected to it's
lead wire. Then set the body of the plug next to a large metal surface
of the mower.
Pulling the starter cord should then produce a healthy spark at the
plug. If it doesn't,
she has an ignition problem such as a bad plug, ignition coil, etc.



But as already said, this is just an internet guess.

AMUN

The whole part of the gas was in passing, but not even an issue here.


Since the OP never did say what make the engine is, all of us are guessing

But as the original post said the lawnmower never had any problems.

Then the rope broke and was replaced.

Then it ran good for a while, then later acted up

On newer Briggs motors you have to pull the whole flyweel cover/shroud off
the get to the rope.
If you look at the spark plug wire it comes off the coil, and just sits in
one little bend between the flywheel shroud and the block.

When putting the cover back if the wire is in the wrong spot it gets
pinched.

And may not cut through right away but the mower vibration finishes it off.
A bit of moisture, and no spark

Then the spark may jump to the block rather than going to the plug.
if only the odd weak spark makes it to the plug, it will be hard to start,
but may still fire up if pulled fast enough

It's only a guess, but it would cause all the symptoms that were described


AMUN

That sounds pretty plausible. It is a B&S engine, & I did basically have to
take it apart to replace the starter rope. I guess I need to take it apart
again to see if I pinched something?

"Amun" wrote in message
. ..
It could be, dirt in carb, bad/ misadjusted/weak ignition module,
pinched
spark plug wire, bent flyweel key, bad plug.
But it's impossible to tell from a usenet post.

These things are almost all cheap for parts to fix, but labour could
cost
$100 or more.

It would help to know if the motor is a briggs & stratton, tecumeth, or
some
other make, but I'm going to assume Briggs.

Offhand I'd check the spark plug wire is not pinched/cut in the
starter-flywheel shroud where it goes out to the spark plug since that
was
removed shortly before the problems began. (to change the pullcord)
Even an experienced person can do this easily if they aren't careful as
there is only a slight bend in one spot for the wire to pass through
without
being damaged

If you can get the mower into the dark, try to start it and watch to
see
if
little faint blue sparks may be going right through the wire to the
engine
case

Depending on the mower this wire can be part of the coil assembly, or
replaceable separately.
And sometimes just a bit of black electrical tape/shrinkwrap over the
wire
can get you going again.

A broken ignition wire is highly unlikely, but not impossible. I
would
do a more
positive test of taking the plug out of the mower, but leaving it
connected to it's
lead wire. Then set the body of the plug next to a large metal
surface
of the mower.
Pulling the starter cord should then produce a healthy spark at the
plug. If it doesn't,
she has an ignition problem such as a bad plug, ignition coil, etc.



But as already said, this is just an internet guess.

AMUN

The whole part of the gas was in passing, but not even an issue here.


Since the OP never did say what make the engine is, all of us are guessing

But as the original post said the lawnmower never had any problems.

Then the rope broke and was replaced.

Then it ran good for a while, then later acted up

On newer Briggs motors you have to pull the whole flyweel cover/shroud off
the get to the rope.
If you look at the spark plug wire it comes off the coil, and just sits in
one little bend between the flywheel shroud and the block.

When putting the cover back if the wire is in the wrong spot it gets
pinched.

And may not cut through right away but the mower vibration finishes it
off.
A bit of moisture, and no spark

Then the spark may jump to the block rather than going to the plug.
if only the odd weak spark makes it to the plug, it will be hard to start,
but may still fire up if pulled fast enough

It's only a guess, but it would cause all the symptoms that were described


AMUN

No need to take anything apart yet.

Look at where the spark plug wire goes back to the engine.

There is a very small "outward bend" in the flywheel shroud where the wire
should pass through.

If the wire is not there, pull off the cover and check the wire for ANY
possible damage.


AMUN



"Betsy" wrote in message
...
That sounds pretty plausible. It is a B&S engine, & I did basically have
to
take it apart to replace the starter rope. I guess I need to take it
apart
again to see if I pinched something?

"Amun" wrote in message
. ..
It could be, dirt in carb, bad/ misadjusted/weak ignition module,
pinched
spark plug wire, bent flyweel key, bad plug.
But it's impossible to tell from a usenet post.

These things are almost all cheap for parts to fix, but labour could
cost
$100 or more.

It would help to know if the motor is a briggs & stratton, tecumeth,
or
some
other make, but I'm going to assume Briggs.

Offhand I'd check the spark plug wire is not pinched/cut in the
starter-flywheel shroud where it goes out to the spark plug since
that
was
removed shortly before the problems began. (to change the pullcord)
Even an experienced person can do this easily if they aren't careful
as
there is only a slight bend in one spot for the wire to pass through
without
being damaged

If you can get the mower into the dark, try to start it and watch to
see
if
little faint blue sparks may be going right through the wire to the
engine
case

Depending on the mower this wire can be part of the coil assembly, or
replaceable separately.
And sometimes just a bit of black electrical tape/shrinkwrap over the
wire
can get you going again.

A broken ignition wire is highly unlikely, but not impossible. I
would
do a more
positive test of taking the plug out of the mower, but leaving it
connected to it's
lead wire. Then set the body of the plug next to a large metal
surface
of the mower.
Pulling the starter cord should then produce a healthy spark at the
plug. If it doesn't,
she has an ignition problem such as a bad plug, ignition coil, etc.



But as already said, this is just an internet guess.

AMUN

The whole part of the gas was in passing, but not even an issue here.


Since the OP never did say what make the engine is, all of us are
guessing

But as the original post said the lawnmower never had any problems.

Then the rope broke and was replaced.

Then it ran good for a while, then later acted up

On newer Briggs motors you have to pull the whole flyweel cover/shroud
off
the get to the rope.
If you look at the spark plug wire it comes off the coil, and just sits
in
one little bend between the flywheel shroud and the block.

When putting the cover back if the wire is in the wrong spot it gets
pinched.

And may not cut through right away but the mower vibration finishes it
off.
A bit of moisture, and no spark

Then the spark may jump to the block rather than going to the plug.
if only the odd weak spark makes it to the plug, it will be hard to
start,
but may still fire up if pulled fast enough

It's only a guess, but it would cause all the symptoms that were
described


AMUN

On Wed, 07 Sep 2005 23:56:42 -0500, sherwindu
wrote:

Well, it seems like you are listening to the wrong people.

Starter spray might get your mower started, and then again, it may not.
It is certainly not a long term fix, and using it repeatedly can damage
your mower. Did you check the other things like the air filter, spark to
plug, bad gas? If you can't do those things, it's time to take it in for
service. If your engine starts with the starter spray, you can pretty much
rule out the spark plug and electronics, and concentrate on the fuel
quality and air filter.

Sherwin D.



From what she describes the engine is tired and none of the current
push mower engines are worth the cost of a rebuild. Even on the off
chance that you are right that starting fluid will eventually cause a
problem it will have worn completely out long before the starting
fluid gets it

Steve B.

YOU NEED A NEW MOWER. DON'T BE SUCH A CHEAP ****--BUY A NEW ONE AND BE DONE
WITH IT.

STOP WHINING.


"Betsy" wrote in message
...
Thanks.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Well, it seems like you are listening to the wrong people.

Starter spray might get your mower started, and then again, it may not.
It is certainly not a long term fix, and using it repeatedly can damage
your mower. Did you check the other things like the air filter, spark to
plug, bad gas? If you can't do those things, it's time to take it in
for
service. If your engine starts with the starter spray, you can pretty
much
rule out the spark plug and electronics, and concentrate on the fuel
quality and air filter.

Sherwin D.

Betsy wrote:

I'm not ignoring anyone. Thanks for any help you've offered. I bought
a
can of starter spray last night, and next time I need to cut the grass,
I'm
going to try it.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Premium gas has nothing to do with her lawnmower. It is for high
compression
engines, which lawnmowers don't have. Don't waste you money on this.
The
key issue is to get rid of any stale gas with fresh gas. Low octane
gas
is good enough. I wonder
if Betsy is just ignoring my suggestions, or she missed my
comments?

Sherwin D.

benzette wrote:

Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more
pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.

Next time you take it in, try starting it in front of the super tech to show
how you can't start it. Is there a choke on it? If so, try choking it for
a couple of cranks and then crank with no or half choke.

"Betsy" wrote in message
...
Thanks.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Well, it seems like you are listening to the wrong people.

Starter spray might get your mower started, and then again, it may not.
It is certainly not a long term fix, and using it repeatedly can damage
your mower. Did you check the other things like the air filter, spark
to
plug, bad gas? If you can't do those things, it's time to take it in
for
service. If your engine starts with the starter spray, you can pretty
much
rule out the spark plug and electronics, and concentrate on the fuel
quality and air filter.

Sherwin D.

Betsy wrote:

I'm not ignoring anyone. Thanks for any help you've offered. I bought
a
can of starter spray last night, and next time I need to cut the grass,
I'm
going to try it.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Premium gas has nothing to do with her lawnmower. It is for high
compression
engines, which lawnmowers don't have. Don't waste you money on this.
The
key issue is to get rid of any stale gas with fresh gas. Low octane
gas
is good enough. I wonder
if Betsy is just ignoring my suggestions, or she missed my
comments?

Sherwin D.

benzette wrote:

Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more
pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.

Oh, believe me, I already did that. After many pulls I did get it started
by pushing it away from me as I yanked. My arm still hurts. I don't think
I'd have been able to start it at all if he hadn't already gotten it
started. And as soon as I got it home it wouldn't cooperate again--took
almost 30 pulls to get it started. Like I said, my arm still hurts.

"Douglas F." wrote in message
news:1126239814.e2ec308bacd28887f1941b04357868f0@t eranews...
Next time you take it in, try starting it in front of the super tech to
show
how you can't start it. Is there a choke on it? If so, try choking it
for
a couple of cranks and then crank with no or half choke.

"Betsy" wrote in message
...
Thanks.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Well, it seems like you are listening to the wrong people.

Starter spray might get your mower started, and then again, it may not.
It is certainly not a long term fix, and using it repeatedly can damage
your mower. Did you check the other things like the air filter, spark
to
plug, bad gas? If you can't do those things, it's time to take it in
for
service. If your engine starts with the starter spray, you can pretty
much
rule out the spark plug and electronics, and concentrate on the fuel
quality and air filter.

Sherwin D.

Betsy wrote:

I'm not ignoring anyone. Thanks for any help you've offered. I
bought
a
can of starter spray last night, and next time I need to cut the
grass,
I'm
going to try it.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Premium gas has nothing to do with her lawnmower. It is for high
compression
engines, which lawnmowers don't have. Don't waste you money on
this.
The
key issue is to get rid of any stale gas with fresh gas. Low octane
gas
is good enough. I wonder
if Betsy is just ignoring my suggestions, or she missed my
comments?

Sherwin D.

benzette wrote:

Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more
pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.