The AC broke in my John Deere. AC is needed a bit more in a tractor
cause you get A LOT of heat off the machine, the cab is all glass, and
one little window to open. Easily 20 degrees over outside.

My neighbor is an HVAC tech. We found a hole in the condenser caused
the failure. First braze attempt still had a small leak. The second
attempt, the braze slumped into the line and party blocked it. Now I'm
FUBAR.

Somehow, I need to cut this braze out and weld a patch over it. Or
pull a 180 U off of one end and bypass this run. It is the first top
run on the condenser. Anyone successfully done either operation?

I looked for generic replacements. John Deere isn't listed. No joy
trying to find one based on length and width. For those that don't
know, John Deere selected their tractor color because of the amount of
green you need to buy a part. Anybody know of a place that will supply
a condenser that fits within a certain height and width? I do know a
machinist that can build a bracket.

Karl

I'd suggest to contact some refrigeration or HVAC firms near
you. Sometimes folks take out a "condensing unit" which
still contains a good condensor. I'm not sure what the line
sizes are, or the size of the condensor you need. But,
that's an idea. Very often the take out units are dumped in
a pile, and later taken to the metals recycling yard.

Not sure about skipping one loop of the condensor, I've
never heard of anyone doing such a thing.

Best of luck, it sounds urgent and needed. I don't have a
condensor to offer you, wish I did. You may be able to use
one out of window AC.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Karl Townsend" wrote in
message ...
The AC broke in my John Deere. AC is needed a bit more in a
tractor
cause you get A LOT of heat off the machine, the cab is all
glass, and
one little window to open. Easily 20 degrees over outside.

My neighbor is an HVAC tech. We found a hole in the
condenser caused
the failure. First braze attempt still had a small leak. The
second
attempt, the braze slumped into the line and party blocked
it. Now I'm
FUBAR.

Somehow, I need to cut this braze out and weld a patch over
it. Or
pull a 180 U off of one end and bypass this run. It is the
first top
run on the condenser. Anyone successfully done either
operation?

I looked for generic replacements. John Deere isn't listed.
No joy
trying to find one based on length and width. For those that
don't
know, John Deere selected their tractor color because of the
amount of
green you need to buy a part. Anybody know of a place that
will supply
a condenser that fits within a certain height and width? I
do know a
machinist that can build a bracket.

Karl

Have your hvac tech friend put a small pressure in the condenser (1-2
psi-where goggles) and heat. It may push out the slump. Then you can remove
pressure and braze again. You can bypass any line in a condenser provided
you look closely an verify all other passes are in the loop. However you
will not have as much condenser as you once had. This may mean you clean the
condenser or filter more often or it don't cool as well. If it is copper you
can buy fittings to fabricate a 180 degree bend if you have room for it. The
idea is to salvage as much condenser as possible. I have messed up many
condensers trying to repair them and most of the time have been able to
remove the slump of solder and try again. If copper........try dynaflow
(available hvac/r distributors) it fills nicely. I have filled 1/4" holes by
filling in around the hole........letting it cool ......fill some more etc
until it is fixed. Blow compressed air or something thru, when you are
finished to verify you did not plug it.
Good Luck
Lyndell


"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
The AC broke in my John Deere. AC is needed a bit more in a tractor
cause you get A LOT of heat off the machine, the cab is all glass, and
one little window to open. Easily 20 degrees over outside.

My neighbor is an HVAC tech. We found a hole in the condenser caused
the failure. First braze attempt still had a small leak. The second
attempt, the braze slumped into the line and party blocked it. Now I'm
FUBAR.

Somehow, I need to cut this braze out and weld a patch over it. Or
pull a 180 U off of one end and bypass this run. It is the first top
run on the condenser. Anyone successfully done either operation?

I looked for generic replacements. John Deere isn't listed. No joy
trying to find one based on length and width. For those that don't
know, John Deere selected their tractor color because of the amount of
green you need to buy a part. Anybody know of a place that will supply
a condenser that fits within a certain height and width? I do know a
machinist that can build a bracket.

Karl

In article ,
says...
The AC broke in my John Deere. AC is needed a bit more in a tractor
cause you get A LOT of heat off the machine, the cab is all glass, and
one little window to open. Easily 20 degrees over outside.

My neighbor is an HVAC tech. We found a hole in the condenser caused
the failure. First braze attempt still had a small leak. The second
attempt, the braze slumped into the line and party blocked it. Now I'm
FUBAR.

Somehow, I need to cut this braze out and weld a patch over it. Or
pull a 180 U off of one end and bypass this run. It is the first top
run on the condenser. Anyone successfully done either operation?

I looked for generic replacements. John Deere isn't listed. No joy
trying to find one based on length and width. For those that don't
know, John Deere selected their tractor color because of the amount of
green you need to buy a part. Anybody know of a place that will supply
a condenser that fits within a certain height and width? I do know a
machinist that can build a bracket.


The Surplus Center often has them, At the moment it appears they only
have one size in stock, probably not large enough:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.a...-1423&catname=

--
DT

Karl Townsend wrote:
The AC broke in my John Deere. AC is needed a bit more in a tractor
cause you get A LOT of heat off the machine, the cab is all glass, and
one little window to open. Easily 20 degrees over outside.

My neighbor is an HVAC tech. We found a hole in the condenser caused
the failure. First braze attempt still had a small leak. The second
attempt, the braze slumped into the line and party blocked it. Now I'm
FUBAR.

Somehow, I need to cut this braze out and weld a patch over it. Or
pull a 180 U off of one end and bypass this run. It is the first top
run on the condenser. Anyone successfully done either operation?

I looked for generic replacements. John Deere isn't listed. No joy
trying to find one based on length and width. For those that don't
know, John Deere selected their tractor color because of the amount of
green you need to buy a part. Anybody know of a place that will supply
a condenser that fits within a certain height and width? I do know a
machinist that can build a bracket.

Karl


The braze you used probably had too high a melting point. You should
use a phoscop or similar brazing rod that has a lower melting point than
copper. Silver solder would work too. There are also epoxy compounds
that are used but I have no experience with them. I do only industrial
chillers and coolers on machine tools. I fixed a leak in a condenser
the other week after a refrigeration guy couldn't find it.
When you braze the leak you should purge the system with dry nitrogen to
get all the freon gas out of the system or you will make hydrofloric
acid when it breaks down from the heat of the brazing. The acid will
cause premature failure of the system.
Most guys don't take the trouble to do the job right. It also gets them
more work in the future.

John

In article ,
Karl Townsend wrote:

The AC broke in my John Deere. AC is needed a bit more in a tractor
cause you get A LOT of heat off the machine, the cab is all glass, and
one little window to open. Easily 20 degrees over outside.

My neighbor is an HVAC tech. We found a hole in the condenser caused
the failure. First braze attempt still had a small leak. The second
attempt, the braze slumped into the line and party blocked it. Now I'm
FUBAR.

Somehow, I need to cut this braze out and weld a patch over it. Or
pull a 180 U off of one end and bypass this run. It is the first top
run on the condenser. Anyone successfully done either operation?

I looked for generic replacements. John Deere isn't listed. No joy
trying to find one based on length and width. For those that don't
know, John Deere selected their tractor color because of the amount of
green you need to buy a part. Anybody know of a place that will supply
a condenser that fits within a certain height and width? I do know a
machinist that can build a bracket.

HVAC condensers are not magic. You can replace the whole core if
necessary, so long as the new core is the same size (heat transfer fin
area) or perhaps a little bigger that the original, and the tubing size
is a reasonable match.

I assume that the tubes are copper. The usual braze filler is
phosphorus copper, which is self fluxing on copper.

Probably the best source of a core is the automobile aftermarket. Do
the research in the junkyard, then buy a new core for installation.

http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-EP20017...or-Core/dp/B00
0CGDEQY

Joe Gwinn

Karl Townsend wrote:
The AC broke in my John Deere. AC is needed a bit more in a tractor
cause you get A LOT of heat off the machine, the cab is all glass, and
one little window to open. Easily 20 degrees over outside.

My neighbor is an HVAC tech. We found a hole in the condenser caused
the failure. First braze attempt still had a small leak. The second
attempt, the braze slumped into the line and party blocked it. Now I'm
FUBAR.

Somehow, I need to cut this braze out and weld a patch over it. Or
pull a 180 U off of one end and bypass this run. It is the first top
run on the condenser. Anyone successfully done either operation?

I looked for generic replacements. John Deere isn't listed. No joy
trying to find one based on length and width. For those that don't
know, John Deere selected their tractor color because of the amount of
green you need to buy a part. Anybody know of a place that will supply
a condenser that fits within a certain height and width? I do know a
machinist that can build a bracket.

Karl

The easy way is to make a repair sleeve out of the same material and
slide it into place then silver solder it in place by sweating the
joints.Just like doing copper pipe joins.

Since it's the outer tube I would probably do it even easier. Take a
Dremel type tool and cut out one side of the tube where the braze
slumped. Remove ONLY the slumped area and clean the tube up good. Make a
patch that will cover the hole with a slight overlap.
Clamp the patch in place and flow the solder around it.

--
Steve W.

The few patches I've done, mostly cut a piece of copper to
shape, to patch. And braze that on. The "circle" and then
build the igloo technique, good idea.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Lyndell Thompson" wrote in message
m...
Have your hvac tech friend put a small pressure in the
condenser (1-2
psi-where goggles) and heat. It may push out the slump. Then
you can remove
pressure and braze again. You can bypass any line in a
condenser provided
you look closely an verify all other passes are in the loop.
However you
will not have as much condenser as you once had. This may
mean you clean the
condenser or filter more often or it don't cool as well. If
it is copper you
can buy fittings to fabricate a 180 degree bend if you have
room for it. The
idea is to salvage as much condenser as possible. I have
messed up many
condensers trying to repair them and most of the time have
been able to
remove the slump of solder and try again. If
copper........try dynaflow
(available hvac/r distributors) it fills nicely. I have
filled 1/4" holes by
filling in around the hole........letting it cool ......fill
some more etc
until it is fixed. Blow compressed air or something thru,
when you are
finished to verify you did not plug it.
Good Luck
Lyndell


"Karl Townsend" wrote in
message
...
The AC broke in my John Deere. AC is needed a bit more in
a tractor
cause you get A LOT of heat off the machine, the cab is
all glass, and
one little window to open. Easily 20 degrees over outside.

My neighbor is an HVAC tech. We found a hole in the
condenser caused
the failure. First braze attempt still had a small leak.
The second
attempt, the braze slumped into the line and party blocked
it. Now I'm
FUBAR.

Somehow, I need to cut this braze out and weld a patch
over it. Or
pull a 180 U off of one end and bypass this run. It is the
first top
run on the condenser. Anyone successfully done either
operation?

I looked for generic replacements. John Deere isn't
listed. No joy
trying to find one based on length and width. For those
that don't
know, John Deere selected their tractor color because of
the amount of
green you need to buy a part. Anybody know of a place that
will supply
a condenser that fits within a certain height and width? I
do know a
machinist that can build a bracket.

Karl

On 07/24/2011 02:08 PM, Lyndell Thompson wrote:
I forgot, where abouts are you located........there are farms here in
southern IN. :-) Contact me off list if you are not too far away.
Lyndell


I think now would be a good time to repost the r.c.m. map someone
made a coupla years ago.

Anyone remember who it was? Got a link?



technomaNge
--
A liberal government is organized crime.

technomaNge wrote:
I think now would be a good time to repost the r.c.m. map someone
made a coupla years ago.

Anyone remember who it was? Got a link?

I did one. It was December 2009.

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&tab=wl

Bob

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 15:08:12 -0400, "Lyndell Thompson"
wrote:

I forgot, where abouts are you located........there are farms here in
southern IN. :-) Contact me off list if you are not too far away.
Lyndell

I'm 50 miles west of the Twin Cities in central Minnesota.

Karl

On 7/24/2011 6:16 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 15:08:12 -0400, "Lyndell Thompson"
wrote:

I forgot, where abouts are you located........there are farms here in
southern IN. :-) Contact me off list if you are not too far away.
Lyndell

I'm 50 miles west of the Twin Cities in central Minnesota.

Karl
Check with the big tractor junk yards. Like Worthington.

Ah, a little far for me to come help with it. I will try to watch the thread
for a few days to lend moral support if nothing else. Like all refrigeration
people we are swamped right now. I will check in the evenings.
Lyndell

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 15:08:12 -0400, "Lyndell Thompson"
wrote:

I forgot, where abouts are you located........there are farms here in
southern IN. :-) Contact me off list if you are not too far away.
Lyndell

I'm 50 miles west of the Twin Cities in central Minnesota.

Karl

On 07/24/2011 06:16 PM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
technomaNge wrote:
I think now would be a good time to repost the r.c.m. map someone
made a coupla years ago.

Anyone remember who it was? Got a link?

I did one. It was December 2009.

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&tab=wl

Bob

Bob, I must be missing something or blocking something in my browser.
All I got was a Google map, no member locations shown.



technomaNge
--
"Everything is changing. People are taking the comedians seriously and
the politicians as a joke."

~ Will Rogers, 1879-1935

technomaNge wrote:

On 07/24/2011 06:16 PM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
technomaNge wrote:
I think now would be a good time to repost the r.c.m. map someone
made a coupla years ago.

Anyone remember who it was? Got a link?

I did one. It was December 2009.

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&tab=wl

Bob

Bob, I must be missing something or blocking something in my browser.
All I got was a Google map, no member locations shown.



That's all I got, too.


--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 07:09:00 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

The AC broke in my John Deere. AC is needed a bit more in a tractor
cause you get A LOT of heat off the machine, the cab is all glass, and
one little window to open. Easily 20 degrees over outside.

My neighbor is an HVAC tech. We found a hole in the condenser caused
the failure. First braze attempt still had a small leak. The second
attempt, the braze slumped into the line and party blocked it. Now I'm
FUBAR.

Somehow, I need to cut this braze out and weld a patch over it. Or
pull a 180 U off of one end and bypass this run. It is the first top
run on the condenser. Anyone successfully done either operation?

I looked for generic replacements. John Deere isn't listed. No joy
trying to find one based on length and width. For those that don't
know, John Deere selected their tractor color because of the amount of
green you need to buy a part. Anybody know of a place that will supply
a condenser that fits within a certain height and width? I do know a
machinist that can build a bracket.

Karl

You usually find solutions, but keep me in mind here, Karl. I'm pretty
good with a O/A torch. I'd bring my torch and silver brazing
materials.

this heat wave is helping me to get out of debt (I'm a
refrigeration repair guy.)

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Lyndell Thompson" wrote in message
m...
Ah, a little far for me to come help with it. I will try to
watch the thread
for a few days to lend moral support if nothing else. Like
all refrigeration
people we are swamped right now. I will check in the
evenings.

Lyndell

Stormin Mormon wrote:
this heat wave is helping me to get out of debt (I'm a
refrigeration repair guy.)



LOL! That's one way.

Do you have any ideas to low-buck a marine water cooled system?

--

Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~sv_temptress

"CaveLamb" wrote in message
m...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
this heat wave is helping me to get out of debt (I'm a refrigeration
repair guy.)



LOL! That's one way.

Do you have any ideas to low-buck a marine water cooled system?



Most likely, no.

--he was still the villiage idiot over at alt.hvac last time that I checked.

But if you can't simply hang your coil in the water ( as in houseboat ) (
DX ) then the easiest way is to counterflow chill--a refrigerant loop of
copper that's been shoved inside of a coil of black poly pipe to serve as an
outer jacket that you can pump seawater through in the opposite direction,
fairly easily done with r134 automotive stuff from the wrecking yard as long
as you can braze and /or form tubing into a flare.

....
You usually find solutions, but keep me in mind here, Karl. I'm pretty
good with a O/A torch. I'd bring my torch and silver brazing
materials.

Thanks for the kind offer. I'm taking you up. You got mail.

Karl

Well, it would help if you'd tell me what the verb
"low-buck" means?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"CaveLamb" wrote in message
m...


LOL! That's one way.

Do you have any ideas to low-buck a marine water cooled
system?

--

Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~sv_temptress

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Well, it would help if you'd tell me what the verb
"low-buck" means?



Under a "boat unit"!


--

Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~sv_temptress

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 20:56:47 -0500, technomaNge wrote:
On 07/24/2011 06:16 PM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
technomaNge wrote:
I think now would be a good time to repost the r.c.m. map someone made
a coupla years ago.

Anyone remember who it was? Got a link?

I did one. It was December 2009.

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&tab=wl

Bob, I must be missing something or blocking something in my browser.
All I got was a Google map, no member locations shown.

Here's a link that works; whether it's the "Official Link" I don't know.
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=117570912561510306224. 0004764a2159981c8a842&ll=39.97712,-93.164062&spn=37.753589,67.763672&z=4


--
jiw

James Waldby wrote:

Here's a link that works; whether it's the "Official Link" I don't know.
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=117570912561510306224. 0004764a2159981c8a842&ll=39.97712,-93.164062&spn=37.753589,67.763672&z=4

Thanks. That brief URL that I posted didn't seem right. It was a
copy-and-paste from my browser.

Bob

On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 08:07:05 -0500, CaveLamb
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Well, it would help if you'd tell me what the verb
"low-buck" means?



Under a "boat unit"!


Huh???

Must be some sort of Texas slang or something.

Shrug

Gunner

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote
in message ...
James Waldby wrote:

Here's a link that works; whether it's the
"Official Link" I don't know.
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=117570912561510306224. 0004764a2159981c8a842&ll=39.97712,-93.164062&spn=37.753589,67.763672&z=4

Thanks. That brief URL that I posted didn't
seem right. It was a copy-and-paste from my
browser.

Bob

I see I'm listed on the left pane but my town is
in the northwestern upper
peninsula in houghton county. phil k.

On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 18:59:08 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Bob Engelhardt" wrote
in message ...
James Waldby wrote:

Here's a link that works; whether it's the
"Official Link" I don't know.
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=117570912561510306224. 0004764a2159981c8a842&ll=39.97712,-93.164062&spn=37.753589,67.763672&z=4

Thanks. That brief URL that I posted didn't
seem right. It was a copy-and-paste from my
browser.

Bob

I see I'm listed on the left pane but my town is
in the northwestern upper
peninsula in houghton county. phil k.


Piva! Soumilinnen brother!!

Gunner, originally from Hancock and Calumet


--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

"Gunner Asch" wrote

I see I'm listed on the left pane but my town is
in the northwestern upper
peninsula in houghton county. phil k.


Piva! Soumilinnen brother!!

Gunner, originally from Hancock and Calumet

yah yah, nakameen, eih? ;)}

john writes:


When you braze the leak you should purge the system with dry
nitrogen to get all the freon gas out of the system or you will
make hydrofloric acid when it breaks down from the heat of the
brazing. The acid will cause premature failure of the system.

Where "the system" == your hide, oh yes....

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

On 07/25/2011 12:22 PM, James Waldby wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 20:56:47 -0500, technomaNge wrote:
On 07/24/2011 06:16 PM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
technomaNge wrote:
I think now would be a good time to repost the r.c.m. map someone made
a coupla years ago.

Anyone remember who it was? Got a link?

I did one. It was December 2009.

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&tab=wl

Bob, I must be missing something or blocking something in my browser.
All I got was a Google map, no member locations shown.

Here's a link that works; whether it's the "Official Link" I don't know.
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=117570912561510306224. 0004764a2159981c8a842&ll=39.97712,-93.164062&spn=37.753589,67.763672&z=4


WOOT!!!! Ya did it.
I'll bookmark it (again) and make a new backup of my bookmarks.


technomaNge
--
If more government is the answer,
then the question was stupid.

On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 20:39:52 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote

I see I'm listed on the left pane but my town is
in the northwestern upper
peninsula in houghton county. phil k.


Piva! Soumilinnen brother!!

Gunner, originally from Hancock and Calumet

yah yah, nakameen, eih? ;)}


^5!!!!

yksikaan muukalainen....prheeni on Ojalas alkaen Calumet!!

Grandpa Wieber was the biggest distributor of Swifts meats in the UP.
Last time I was in Houghton..there was still a big sign painted on the
wall of a building on the bricks...Swift Meats, F. Wieber and Son.

Kinda gave me a moment of teary eye.

Gunner



--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Well, it would help if you'd tell me what the verb
"low-buck" means?

It's like "low-ball" - to give the least possible bid that
you think your client will accept, therefore sometimes shooting
oneself in the foot, as the fee doesn't cover the cost of doing
the job.

This is particularly annoying when one finds that the client
would have been happy to pay twice as much for a quality job!

Hope This Helps!
Rich

responding to
http://www.rittercnc.com/metalworkin...ir-511294-.htm
asheksp wrote:
Please Visit
http://sexca.shopping.officelive.com/default.aspx

double layer spam? I'm not ammused.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"asheksp" wrote in
message
oups.com...
responding to
http://www..com/metalworking/AC-cond...ir-511294-.htm
asheksp wrote:
Please Visit
http://sexca.shopping.office/default.aspx