I'm repairing a 257312 Lyman meehanite bullet mould. Used a
mechanic's length LH 135 degree point drill to back out the snapped off
HP pin retainer. Now its time to replace the hollow point pin that
extends into the bullet cavity.

Aluminum is out: markedly different expansion rate, scratches easier,
and bends easier. But molten lead does not stick to it at all. Pity...

This alloy must be able to take a fine finish. No 1018 CRS need apply.
Temperatures will be in the range of 725-800 Fahrenheit.

My first guess is HHS drill blanks. Also considering TGP.

The HP hole is a teeny bit bigger than a #41 drill (0.096 in/2.438 mm).
My small hole gauge set only goes down to 1/8"...

"Louis Ohland" wrote in message
...
I'm repairing a 257312 Lyman meehanite bullet mould. Used a mechanic's
length LH 135 degree point drill to back out the snapped off HP pin
retainer. Now its time to replace the hollow point pin that extends into
the bullet cavity.

Aluminum is out: markedly different expansion rate, scratches easier, and
bends easier. But molten lead does not stick to it at all. Pity...

This alloy must be able to take a fine finish. No 1018 CRS need apply.
Temperatures will be in the range of 725-800 Fahrenheit.

My first guess is HHS drill blanks. Also considering TGP.

The HP hole is a teeny bit bigger than a #41 drill (0.096 in/2.438 mm). My
small hole gauge set only goes down to 1/8"...

Have you tried stainless to see if it sticks to lead? With its layer of
chromium oxide, I would guess not.

--
Ed Huntress

On 07/14/2011 10:23 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:
"Louis wrote in message
...
I'm repairing a 257312 Lyman meehanite bullet mould. Used a mechanic's
length LH 135 degree point drill to back out the snapped off HP pin
retainer. Now its time to replace the hollow point pin that extends into
the bullet cavity.

Aluminum is out: markedly different expansion rate, scratches easier, and
bends easier. But molten lead does not stick to it at all. Pity...

This alloy must be able to take a fine finish. No 1018 CRS need apply.
Temperatures will be in the range of 725-800 Fahrenheit.

My first guess is HHS drill blanks. Also considering TGP.

The HP hole is a teeny bit bigger than a #41 drill (0.096 in/2.438 mm). My
small hole gauge set only goes down to 1/8"...

Have you tried stainless to see if it sticks to lead? With its layer of
chromium oxide, I would guess not.

High-alloy drill rod may not, either. Stainless may be cheaper.

Teeny bit bigger than 0.096"/2.44mm sounds like it's an either an even
0.1" or an even 2.5mm, depending on whether it's 'merican or furrin.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

"Louis Ohland" wrote in message
...
I'm repairing a 257312 Lyman meehanite bullet mould. Used a mechanic's
length LH 135 degree point drill to back out the snapped off HP pin
retainer. Now its time to replace the hollow point pin that extends into
the bullet cavity.

Aluminum is out: markedly different expansion rate, scratches easier, and
bends easier. But molten lead does not stick to it at all. Pity...

Molten lead does stick to aluminum. A mild release agent is all that is
required however. Candle smoke was one of the popular ones, but a lot of
the jig and spinnerbait guys are using Franklin mold release. Looks like a
spray on graphite powder.

Louis Ohland wrote:
I'm repairing a 257312 Lyman meehanite bullet mould. Used a mechanic's
length LH 135 degree point drill to back out the snapped off HP pin
retainer. Now its time to replace the hollow point pin that extends into
the bullet cavity.

Aluminum is out: markedly different expansion rate, scratches easier,
and bends easier. But molten lead does not stick to it at all. Pity...

This alloy must be able to take a fine finish. No 1018 CRS need apply.
Temperatures will be in the range of 725-800 Fahrenheit.

My first guess is HHS drill blanks. Also considering TGP.

The HP hole is a teeny bit bigger than a #41 drill (0.096 in/2.438 mm).
My small hole gauge set only goes down to 1/8"...

I'd try 303 stainless. I made a
wedding band out of it. It polishes
up very nice.

On 7/14/2011 1:38 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:


"Louis Ohland" wrote in message
...
I'm repairing a 257312 Lyman meehanite bullet mould. Used a mechanic's
length LH 135 degree point drill to back out the snapped off HP pin
retainer. Now its time to replace the hollow point pin that extends
into the bullet cavity.

Aluminum is out: markedly different expansion rate, scratches easier,
and bends easier. But molten lead does not stick to it at all. Pity...

Molten lead does stick to aluminum. A mild release agent is all that is
required however. Candle smoke was one of the popular ones, but a lot of
the jig and spinnerbait guys are using Franklin mold release. Looks like
a spray on graphite powder.


Do you mean "Frankford Arsenal"? Good stuff, but used in a mold you as
get slightly undersized boolits. I use a tiny smidge of Kroil as a
mold release.

On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:59:07 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@tacks wrote:


Do you mean "Frankford Arsenal"? Good stuff, but used in a mold you as
get slightly undersized boolits. I use a tiny smidge of Kroil as a
mold release.

I think I recall you're using Lee molds (aluminum). When you say a
smidge, how do you apply it? Q-tip??? Does it have to "burn out"
over a few bullets before they stop being wrinkled like oil does, or
does it work from the get go? Do you have to reapply it during a
casting session?

RWL

On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 12:10:28 -0500, Louis Ohland
wrote:

I'm repairing a 257312 Lyman meehanite bullet mould. Used a
mechanic's length LH 135 degree point drill to back out the snapped off
HP pin retainer. Now its time to replace the hollow point pin that
extends into the bullet cavity.

Aluminum is out: markedly different expansion rate, scratches easier,
and bends easier. But molten lead does not stick to it at all. Pity...

This alloy must be able to take a fine finish. No 1018 CRS need apply.
Temperatures will be in the range of 725-800 Fahrenheit.

My first guess is HHS drill blanks. Also considering TGP.

The HP hole is a teeny bit bigger than a #41 drill (0.096 in/2.438 mm).
My small hole gauge set only goes down to 1/8"...
Carbide rod.

Gunner

Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
something damned nasty to all three of them.

"Tom Gardner" Mars@tacks wrote in message
...
On 7/14/2011 1:38 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:


"Louis Ohland" wrote in message
...
I'm repairing a 257312 Lyman meehanite bullet mould. Used a mechanic's
length LH 135 degree point drill to back out the snapped off HP pin
retainer. Now its time to replace the hollow point pin that extends
into the bullet cavity.

Aluminum is out: markedly different expansion rate, scratches easier,
and bends easier. But molten lead does not stick to it at all. Pity...

Molten lead does stick to aluminum. A mild release agent is all that is
required however. Candle smoke was one of the popular ones, but a lot of
the jig and spinnerbait guys are using Franklin mold release. Looks like
a spray on graphite powder.


Do you mean "Frankford Arsenal"? Good stuff, but used in a mold you as
get slightly undersized boolits. I use a tiny smidge of Kroil as a mold
release.

Sorry, Yes. Frankford Arsenal.

On Jul 14, 11:10*am, Louis Ohland wrote:
* * I'm repairing a 257312 Lyman meehanite bullet mould. Used a
mechanic's length LH 135 degree point drill to back out the snapped off
HP pin retainer. Now its time to replace the hollow point pin that
extends into the bullet cavity.

Aluminum is out: markedly different expansion rate, scratches easier,
and bends easier. But molten lead does not stick to it at all. Pity...

This alloy must be able to take a fine finish. No 1018 CRS need apply.
Temperatures will be in the range of 725-800 Fahrenheit.

My first guess is HHS drill blanks. Also considering TGP.

The HP hole is a teeny bit bigger than a #41 drill (0.096 in/2.438 mm).
My small hole gauge set only goes down to 1/8"...


My hollow point molds have mild steel pins, takes a good enough
polish. Either smoke or cold blue them before use. Any polishing
marks should go lengthwise. You don't need an exotic alloy, there's
no strength involved here, the pin just takes up space and needs to
come out easily. Just make sure you allow enough draft when you make
the thing. I've made enough of them from hardware store hot-rolled
shafting. If I were doing it now, wooden knobs would be a problem
since my major supplier went out of business a few years ago. Factory
jobbies have a hole drilled in knob+pin and a drive pin shot in from
the side to hold the works together. Most of the time it works. Have
had a few loosen up.

Stan

In the grand tradition of starting out the most complex and rapidly
working to the simplest method, the idea is to buy a #41 HSS drill
blank, round the point, then mill a slight flat on one side. Then turn a
collar that extends up into the wooden handle, this collar will have a
set screw so I can lock in the pin.

After seeing the old style locking pin (uses pin on collar against pin
in block, under the screw head), it looks like it will be a positive
stop. The new system uses an e-clip where its difficult to see the
opening when re-inserting the pin.

My hollow point molds have mild steel pins, takes a good enough
polish. Either smoke or cold blue them before use. Any polishing
marks should go lengthwise. You don't need an exotic alloy, there's
no strength involved here, the pin just takes up space and needs to
come out easily. Just make sure you allow enough draft when you make
the thing. I've made enough of them from hardware store hot-rolled
shafting. If I were doing it now, wooden knobs would be a problem
since my major supplier went out of business a few years ago. Factory
jobbies have a hole drilled in knob+pin and a drive pin shot in from
the side to hold the works together. Most of the time it works. Have
had a few loosen up.

Stan