On Jul 14, 11:10*am, Louis Ohland wrote:
* * I'm repairing a 257312 Lyman meehanite bullet mould. Used a
mechanic's length LH 135 degree point drill to back out the snapped off
HP pin retainer. Now its time to replace the hollow point pin that
extends into the bullet cavity.

Aluminum is out: markedly different expansion rate, scratches easier,
and bends easier. But molten lead does not stick to it at all. Pity...

This alloy must be able to take a fine finish. No 1018 CRS need apply.
Temperatures will be in the range of 725-800 Fahrenheit.

My first guess is HHS drill blanks. Also considering TGP.

The HP hole is a teeny bit bigger than a #41 drill (0.096 in/2.438 mm).
My small hole gauge set only goes down to 1/8"...


My hollow point molds have mild steel pins, takes a good enough
polish. Either smoke or cold blue them before use. Any polishing
marks should go lengthwise. You don't need an exotic alloy, there's
no strength involved here, the pin just takes up space and needs to
come out easily. Just make sure you allow enough draft when you make
the thing. I've made enough of them from hardware store hot-rolled
shafting. If I were doing it now, wooden knobs would be a problem
since my major supplier went out of business a few years ago. Factory
jobbies have a hole drilled in knob+pin and a drive pin shot in from
the side to hold the works together. Most of the time it works. Have
had a few loosen up.

Stan