[Stormin Mormon]

I recently posted, to ask about corrosion resistance
stuff for electrical terminals. My final decision was
to select dielectric grease. My best source turned
out to be Advance Auto Parts and Battery, they had
the best price, and it was local to me. Six bucks for
three ounces.

They also had Seal All, and Gorilla Glue, which I
both used within the last year or so. Seal all, to seal
the leaky seam of a metal kerosene lantern. And the
gorilla Glue to do a couple wood working repairs at
the church. The Seal All was well priced, 4.99 for 2
ounce tube.

I had used Noalox, to lubricate the threads of my mini
mag. The lens to turn on was a bit "gritty" feeling, so
I cleaned it all out with spray oil and cotton swabs.
And clean out the end cap. I decided to use some of
that new dia grease on the mini mag.

I had remembered that I'd put Noalox on the threads of
the tail caps of several other aluminum body flash lights.
I went to investigate, and see how they were doing. A
couple of them were just grey gooped, and one looked
like the Noalox had etched the threads a bit, they weren't
quite the same. Might have also removed some of the
anoidzing. Not good.

More spray oil, and more cotton swabs. Some of the
grey had dried, and I had to scrape it out with the top
of a small slotted screw driver. Coat the threads with
dielectric grease, and hope that works better than the
grey aluminum antioxidant Noalox suff.

Some metal content. Hope it's a help to someone
out there.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

[[email protected]]

On Mar 26, 4:45*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
I recently posted, to ask about corrosion resistance
stuff for electrical terminals. My final decision was
to select dielectric grease. My best source turned
out to be Advance Auto Parts and Battery, they had
the best price, and it was local to me. Six bucks for
three ounces.

They also had Seal All, and Gorilla Glue, which I
both used within the last year or so. Seal all, to seal
the leaky seam of a metal kerosene lantern. And the
gorilla Glue to do a couple wood working repairs at
the church. The Seal All was well priced, 4.99 for 2
ounce tube.

I had used Noalox, to lubricate the threads of my mini
mag. The lens to turn on was a bit "gritty" feeling, so
I cleaned it all out with spray oil and cotton swabs.
And clean out the end cap. I decided to use some of
that new dia grease on the mini mag.

I had remembered that I'd put Noalox on the threads of
the tail caps of several other aluminum body flash lights.
I went to investigate, and see how they were doing. A
couple of them were just grey gooped, and one looked
like the Noalox had etched the threads a bit, they weren't
quite the same. Might have also removed some of the
anoidzing. Not good.

More spray oil, and more cotton swabs. Some of the
grey had dried, and I had to scrape it out with the top
of a small slotted screw driver. Coat the threads with
dielectric grease, and hope that works better than the
grey aluminum antioxidant Noalox suff.

Some metal content. Hope it's a help to someone
out there.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

The only time I've seen the gray goop used was for static connections,
like HV switching gear and transformers where it was liberally applied
to the aluminum bus bars where bolted to the equipment. I got the
fun of filing the connections to clean them up first. Good luck with
the dielectric goop, it's meant for an INSULATOR for HV, like plug
boots and distributor rotors. The threads in those flashlight caps
are usually used to conduct current, they might not now. Neither goop
is supposed to be used for a lubricant.

Stan

[Howard Eisenhauer[_2_]]

On Sat, 26 Mar 2011 18:45:44 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

*Snip*

I had used Noalox, to lubricate the threads of my mini
mag. The lens to turn on was a bit "gritty" feeling, so
I cleaned it all out with spray oil and cotton swabs.
And clean out the end cap. I decided to use some of
that new dia grease on the mini mag.

I had remembered that I'd put Noalox on the threads of
the tail caps of several other aluminum body flash lights.
I went to investigate, and see how they were doing. A
couple of them were just grey gooped, and one looked
like the Noalox had etched the threads a bit, they weren't
quite the same. Might have also removed some of the
anoidzing. Not good.

*Snip*

There is a variety of tis stuff called NO-OX-ID that doesn't have the
aluminum added however the drawback to any of this class of compunds
is that they get really stiff in cold weather, even at room
temeprature the NO-OX is pretty hard.

My rtecommendation would a silicon grease.

H.

[Stormin Mormon]

I'm not totally sure, but the dielectric grease I
bought is probably close to what you reccomend.
I'm reassured that yet another fine man has
agreed with me. Thank you.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Howard Eisenhauer" wrote in
message ...

*Snip*

There is a variety of tis stuff called NO-OX-ID that doesn't
have the
aluminum added however the drawback to any of this class of
compunds
is that they get really stiff in cold weather, even at room
temeprature the NO-OX is pretty hard.

My rtecommendation would a silicon grease.

H.

[Stormin Mormon]

That's pretty much what I was going to write. The metal to
metal contact will force the grease out. So, nonconductive
is a nonissue. The lubrication value, and the displaces air
and water value is what I'm trying to do.

I've used dielectric grease on several flash lights in the
last couple days. Including my mini mag and a couple of D
cell mag lights. They all work fine. The proof is how they
work, months from now. But at the moment I'm optomistic.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"dan" wrote in message
...
wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Sat, 26 Mar 2011 19:22:26 -0700
(PDT):

Good luck with
the dielectric goop, it's meant for an INSULATOR for HV,
like plug
boots and distributor rotors. The threads in those
flashlight caps
are usually used to conduct current, they might not now.

The metal to metal contact conducts the current, the goop
just takes
the place of air/water in and around the threads.
--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

[Dave__67]

On Mar 26, 6:45*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
I recently posted, to ask about corrosion resistance
stuff for electrical terminals. My final decision was
to select dielectric grease. My best source turned
out to be Advance Auto Parts and Battery, they had
the best price, and it was local to me. Six bucks for
three ounces.

They also had Seal All, and Gorilla Glue, which I
both used within the last year or so. Seal all, to seal
the leaky seam of a metal kerosene lantern. And the
gorilla Glue to do a couple wood working repairs at
the church. The Seal All was well priced, 4.99 for 2
ounce tube.

I had used Noalox, to lubricate the threads of my mini
mag. The lens to turn on was a bit "gritty" feeling, so
I cleaned it all out with spray oil and cotton swabs.
And clean out the end cap. I decided to use some of
that new dia grease on the mini mag.

I had remembered that I'd put Noalox on the threads of
the tail caps of several other aluminum body flash lights.
I went to investigate, and see how they were doing. A
couple of them were just grey gooped, and one looked
like the Noalox had etched the threads a bit, they weren't
quite the same. Might have also removed some of the
anoidzing. Not good.

More spray oil, and more cotton swabs. Some of the
grey had dried, and I had to scrape it out with the top
of a small slotted screw driver. Coat the threads with
dielectric grease, and hope that works better than the
grey aluminum antioxidant Noalox suff.

Some metal content. Hope it's a help to someone
out there.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

The auto stuff works great on my lightbulbs that are prone to fretting-
corrosion (ceiling fans and bathroom exhaust fans), the very hot
halogens in my stove fan, and all the connections on my street-legal
dirt bike (dual sport bike) which sees lots of water.


Dave