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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Dividing head
I was going to make a quick and dirty dividing head to use with my
Taig chucks on my X2 mill. I thought I would basically run a shaft through a block of aluminum with 3/4-16 thread on one end and a dividing plate on the other. Then I thought: What shaft? What bearings? Primary concerns here are not the rotation loads but absence of radial and axial movement of the shaft. I am not sure what engineering principles apply. Would an aluminum shaft with a slip fit through a hole in the aluminum block suffice? Presumably a steel shaft would wear out the aluminum. Would it be better to use a steel shaft with bronze bushings? Ball-bearings seem a bit of an overkill. Maybe by the time I think this through I will find it expedient to get a Taig headstock for $60+ and use it as a base for the project (a common approach, apparently). However, I would still like to know what is the correct approach if building from scratch. Thanks, Michael Koblic, Campbell River, BC |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Dividing head
On Mar 9, 3:47*am, wrote:
I was going to make a quick and dirty dividing head to use with my Taig chucks on my X2 mill. I thought I would basically run a shaft through a block of aluminum with 3/4-16 thread on one end and a dividing plate on the other. Then I thought: What shaft? What bearings? Primary concerns here are not the rotation loads but absence of radial and axial movement of the shaft. I am not sure what engineering principles apply. Would an aluminum shaft with a slip fit through a hole in the aluminum block suffice? Presumably a steel shaft would wear out the aluminum. Would it be better to use a steel shaft with bronze bushings? Ball-bearings seem a bit of an overkill. Maybe by the time I think this through I will find it expedient to get a Taig headstock for $60+ and use it as a base for the project (a common approach, apparently). However, I would still like to know what is the correct approach if building from scratch. Thanks, Michael Koblic, Campbell River, BC I like these: http://www.kalamazooind.com/products...exing-fixture/ I bought two used ones for ~$50 each and mounted one on an angle plate with the axis vertical. If necessary the second can serve as a tailstock to steady a long shaft, like the splined pulley broach I have to make soon. The Spin Indexer is less rigid but can be set to 1 degree with the vernier holes on the top: http://www.phase2plus.com/details.as...IN_INDEX&id=58 A chuck for them: http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=5c3jaw Then there's this: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-...kit-98077.html The rotation load is VERY important when milling if the work diameter is larger than the shaft clamp. You can arrange a clamp that secures the work directly to the mill table at the cost of inconvenience. jsw |
#3
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Dividing head
On Wed, 9 Mar 2011 04:59:33 -0800 (PST), Jim Wilkins
wrote: On Mar 9, 3:47*am, wrote: I was going to make a quick and dirty dividing head to use with my Taig chucks on my X2 mill. I thought I would basically run a shaft through a block of aluminum with 3/4-16 thread on one end and a dividing plate on the other. Then I thought: What shaft? What bearings? Primary concerns here are not the rotation loads but absence of radial and axial movement of the shaft. I am not sure what engineering principles apply. Would an aluminum shaft with a slip fit through a hole in the aluminum block suffice? Presumably a steel shaft would wear out the aluminum. Would it be better to use a steel shaft with bronze bushings? Ball-bearings seem a bit of an overkill. Maybe by the time I think this through I will find it expedient to get a Taig headstock for $60+ and use it as a base for the project (a common approach, apparently). However, I would still like to know what is the correct approach if building from scratch. Thanks, Michael Koblic, Campbell River, BC I like these: http://www.kalamazooind.com/products...exing-fixture/ I bought two used ones for ~$50 each and mounted one on an angle plate with the axis vertical. If necessary the second can serve as a tailstock to steady a long shaft, like the splined pulley broach I have to make soon. The Spin Indexer is less rigid but can be set to 1 degree with the vernier holes on the top: http://www.phase2plus.com/details.as...IN_INDEX&id=58 A chuck for them: http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=5c3jaw Then there's this: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-...kit-98077.html The rotation load is VERY important when milling if the work diameter is larger than the shaft clamp. You can arrange a clamp that secures the work directly to the mill table at the cost of inconvenience. jsw I have looked at all of those at one time or another. I rejected the spin indexer because of the 5C collets. The chuck adds $100 to the cost. The rotary tables have the same problem. Right now the job is to drill several cross holes in round stock at precise but not necessarily outlandish angles. I was also trying to use what was in the drawer. Maybe even learn how to thread on a lathe :-) I was going to buy the Grizzly rapid indexer but both Grizzly and Busy Bee are out of stock. Also at 6" it would probably bee a tad too big for my X2. I suppose an option would be a spin indexer, a 3/4" collet holding a short shaft with 3/4"-16 thread and a Taig chuck. Now that you made me look at things again I should consider it. Michael Koblic, Campbell River, BC |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Dividing head
On Mar 9, 1:47*am, wrote:
I was going to make a quick and dirty dividing head to use with my Taig chucks on my X2 mill. I thought I would basically run a shaft through a block of aluminum with 3/4-16 thread on one end and a dividing plate on the other. Then I thought: What shaft? What bearings? Primary concerns here are not the rotation loads but absence of radial and axial movement of the shaft. I am not sure what engineering principles apply. Would an aluminum shaft with a slip fit through a hole in the aluminum block suffice? Presumably a steel shaft would wear out the aluminum. Would it be better to use a steel shaft with bronze bushings? Ball-bearings seem a bit of an overkill. Maybe by the time I think this through I will find it expedient to get a Taig headstock for $60+ and use it as a base for the project (a common approach, apparently). However, I would still like to know what is the correct approach if building from scratch. Thanks, Michael Koblic, Campbell River, BC Current Home Shop Machinist has a how-to for a cheapie indexer using change wheels on an Atlas 6". I've seen similar using just a block of scrapbox steel and a shaft with suitable arrangements for attaching the gears. No bearings used besides a good running fit. A spring- loaded plunger to fit the gaps in the teeth does the indexing. Probably an afternoon's project. Or you can just get a 5C indexing block set and have at it. Stan |
#6
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Dividing head
On 10 Mar 2011 01:13:51 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote: [...] I am not sure what engineering principles apply. Would an aluminum shaft with a slip fit through a hole in the aluminum block suffice? Likely to suffer galling. Presumably a steel shaft would wear out the aluminum. Actually -- a polished steel shaft would be a better bearing with the aluminum housing than an al-al interface. keep it lubed, of course. OK, thanks, I don't have a clue about this stuff. Would it be better to use a steel shaft with bronze bushings? Ball-bearings seem a bit of an overkill. How much load forces are you expecting? Drilling cross holes type of forces. However, if one could make it more versatile by simple means, why not? Maybe by the time I think this through I will find it expedient to get a Taig headstock for $60+ and use it as a base for the project (a common approach, apparently). However, I would still like to know what is the correct approach if building from scratch. Or -- perhaps get an old Unimat or Emco-Maier dividing head, if you need no more than 60 divisions. Of course -- the Unimat ones go for crazy money these days, if you can find them on eBay at all. People are *collecting* these things instead of using them. :-) I saw a really neat little rotary table in the Proxxon catalog. It had an integral chuck. I have not been able to find a dealer for it so far. But given the principles you outlined I might be able to knock something together. Michael Koblic, Campbell River, BC |
#7
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Dividing head
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message ... People are *collecting* these things instead of using them. :-) To quote: Warren Buffett The line separating investment and speculation, which is never bright and clear, becomes blurred still further when most market participants have recently enjoyed triumphs. Nothing sedates rationality like large doses of effortless money. After a heady experience of that kind, normally sensible people drift into behavior akin to that of Cinderella at the ball. They know that overstaying the festivities -- that is, continuing to speculate in companies that have gigantic valuations relative to the cash they are likely to generate in the future -- will eventually bring on pumpkins and mice. But they nevertheless hate to miss a single minute of what is one helluva party. Therefore, the giddy participants all plan to leave just seconds before midnight. There's a problem, though: They are dancing in a room in which the clocks have no hands. a.. Berkshire Hathaway 2000 Chairman's Letter |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Dividing head
I don't mind dividing head but I always get the first round and then the
rest of you guys can have her after that. ------------------ wrote in message ... I was going to make a quick and dirty dividing head to use with my Taig chucks on my X2 mill. I thought I would basically run a shaft through a block of aluminum with 3/4-16 thread on one end and a dividing plate on the other. Then I thought: What shaft? What bearings? Primary concerns here are not the rotation loads but absence of radial and axial movement of the shaft. I am not sure what engineering principles apply. Would an aluminum shaft with a slip fit through a hole in the aluminum block suffice? Presumably a steel shaft would wear out the aluminum. Would it be better to use a steel shaft with bronze bushings? Ball-bearings seem a bit of an overkill. Maybe by the time I think this through I will find it expedient to get a Taig headstock for $60+ and use it as a base for the project (a common approach, apparently). However, I would still like to know what is the correct approach if building from scratch. Thanks, Michael Koblic, Campbell River, BC |
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