My second attempt to make that dog clutch, is to make it from a proper
diameter 12L14 round bar.

It seems to work a little better, this being a round bar already means
less machining, I fixed some bugs, redid the feedrate math, etc and so
far it seems to be working. There is 50 minutes machining time left.

The purpose of this is to make an adaptor to connect my servo motor
with a work gear box, to the knee.

Anyway, this 12L14 is the most amazing rusting machine imaginable, the
chips made 2 hours ago are already rusting despite the coolant.

So.

How do I make the finished product -- a 6 inch long 12L14 bar --
somewhat rust protected?

Right now, I think that I need to simply dry it, and cover with
"marine grease" inside or where any surfaces mate, and something oily,
but cleaner, outside.

Any other ideas?

i

In article ,
Ignoramus562 wrote:

My second attempt to make that dog clutch, is to make it from a proper
diameter 12L14 round bar.

It seems to work a little better, this being a round bar already means
less machining, I fixed some bugs, redid the feedrate math, etc and so
far it seems to be working. There is 50 minutes machining time left.

The purpose of this is to make an adaptor to connect my servo motor
with a work gear box, to the knee.

Anyway, this 12L14 is the most amazing rusting machine imaginable, the
chips made 2 hours ago are already rusting despite the coolant.

Sounds like the coolant is too dilute.


How do I make the finished product -- a 6 inch long 12L14 bar --
somewhat rust protected?

Right now, I think that I need to simply dry it, and cover with
"marine grease" inside or where any surfaces mate, and something oily,
but cleaner, outside.

Any other ideas?

Zinc plating, using a kit from Caswell.


Joe Gwinn

"Ignoramus562" wrote in message
...
My second attempt to make that dog clutch, is to make it from a proper
diameter 12L14 round bar.

It seems to work a little better, this being a round bar already means
less machining, I fixed some bugs, redid the feedrate math, etc and so
far it seems to be working. There is 50 minutes machining time left.

The purpose of this is to make an adaptor to connect my servo motor
with a work gear box, to the knee.

Anyway, this 12L14 is the most amazing rusting machine imaginable, the
chips made 2 hours ago are already rusting despite the coolant.

So.

How do I make the finished product -- a 6 inch long 12L14 bar --
somewhat rust protected?

Right now, I think that I need to simply dry it, and cover with
"marine grease" inside or where any surfaces mate, and something oily,
but cleaner, outside.

Any other ideas?


Dry with compressed air and then spray it with automatic transmission
fluid...finally, place into a clean plastic bag.

On Feb 21, 11:33*pm, Ignoramus562
wrote:
...
How do I make the finished product -- a 6 inch long 12L14 bar --
somewhat rust protected?...
i

I've had reasonably good results from blackening 12L14 by boiling it
in sodium thiosulphate (phototographers' "hypo") and rubbing on a
little LPS3. It's protected a knurled adjusting screw on my sawmill
that I turn with sweaty hands.

jsw

In article
,
Jim Wilkins wrote:

On Feb 21, 11:33*pm, Ignoramus562
wrote:
...
How do I make the finished product -- a 6 inch long 12L14 bar --
somewhat rust protected?...
i

I've had reasonably good results from blackening 12L14 by boiling it
in sodium thiosulphate (phototographers' "hypo") and rubbing on a
little LPS3. It's protected a knurled adjusting screw on my sawmill
that I turn with sweaty hands.

Now there's an idea.

Joe Gwinn

In article ,
lid says...
My second attempt to make that dog clutch, is to make it from a proper
diameter 12L14 round bar.

It seems to work a little better, this being a round bar already means
less machining, I fixed some bugs, redid the feedrate math, etc and so
far it seems to be working. There is 50 minutes machining time left.

The purpose of this is to make an adaptor to connect my servo motor
with a work gear box, to the knee.

Anyway, this 12L14 is the most amazing rusting machine imaginable, the
chips made 2 hours ago are already rusting despite the coolant.

So.

How do I make the finished product -- a 6 inch long 12L14 bar --
somewhat rust protected?


I made the backing plate for a lathe chuck out of 12L14 about 10 years
ago and just did it with cheap cold bluing and a wipe of oil. It's rust
free today. It really takes bluing well and looks great.

--
DT

On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 22:33:48 -0600, Ignoramus562
wrote:

My second attempt to make that dog clutch, is to make it from a proper
diameter 12L14 round bar.

It seems to work a little better, this being a round bar already means
less machining, I fixed some bugs, redid the feedrate math, etc and so
far it seems to be working. There is 50 minutes machining time left.

The purpose of this is to make an adaptor to connect my servo motor
with a work gear box, to the knee.

Anyway, this 12L14 is the most amazing rusting machine imaginable, the
chips made 2 hours ago are already rusting despite the coolant.

So.

How do I make the finished product -- a 6 inch long 12L14 bar --
somewhat rust protected?

Right now, I think that I need to simply dry it, and cover with
"marine grease" inside or where any surfaces mate, and something oily,
but cleaner, outside.

Any other ideas?

Toss some zinc on that puppy, eh? Hmm, except for the working groove.
That will take a lot of wear and I don't think zinc will bear up.

Maybe go have it chromed in an existing chroming lot if anyone in your
area still does that.

Or call Caswell Plating and ask which of their kits would be best for
it.

--
The more passions and desires one has,
the more ways one has of being happy.
-- Charlotte-Catherine

On 02/22/2011 04:20 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Feb 21, 11:33 pm,
wrote:
...
How do I make the finished product -- a 6 inch long 12L14 bar --
somewhat rust protected?...
i

I've had reasonably good results from blackening 12L14 by boiling it
in sodium thiosulphate (phototographers' "hypo") and rubbing on a
little LPS3. It's protected a knurled adjusting screw on my sawmill
that I turn with sweaty hands.

I was going to suggest bluing it, but I've only ever blued mild steel
parts inadvertently, as a side-effect of some metalworking process that
involves a torch. It does seem to help, though.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

On 2/22/2011 7:47 AM, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article
,
Jim wrote:

On Feb 21, 11:33 pm,
wrote:
...
How do I make the finished product -- a 6 inch long 12L14 bar --
somewhat rust protected?...
i

I've had reasonably good results from blackening 12L14 by boiling it
in sodium thiosulphate (phototographers' "hypo") and rubbing on a
little LPS3. It's protected a knurled adjusting screw on my sawmill
that I turn with sweaty hands.

Now there's an idea.

Joe Gwinn

I use cold blue from Birchwood-Casey or Outers, then wipe on a thin coat
of Vaseline. It works for me. I'll have to try the hot hypo.

Kevin Gallimore

Ignoramus562 wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Mon, 21 Feb 2011 22:33:48 -0600:

How do I make the finished product -- a 6 inch long 12L14 bar --
somewhat rust protected?

Clean, coat with linseed oil, bake at 450F for 20min-40min.
--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

clean it bake it rub off the micro rust and grease it ?

Martin

On 2/21/2011 10:33 PM, Ignoramus562 wrote:
My second attempt to make that dog clutch, is to make it from a proper
diameter 12L14 round bar.

It seems to work a little better, this being a round bar already means
less machining, I fixed some bugs, redid the feedrate math, etc and so
far it seems to be working. There is 50 minutes machining time left.

The purpose of this is to make an adaptor to connect my servo motor
with a work gear box, to the knee.

Anyway, this 12L14 is the most amazing rusting machine imaginable, the
chips made 2 hours ago are already rusting despite the coolant.

So.

How do I make the finished product -- a 6 inch long 12L14 bar --
somewhat rust protected?

Right now, I think that I need to simply dry it, and cover with
"marine grease" inside or where any surfaces mate, and something oily,
but cleaner, outside.

Any other ideas?

i

Flash copper plate it. No current - super saturated solution
and placing a bar in it cools it - depositing copper. Test it first.

Once copper plated - wash and grease or oil.

Martin

On 2/21/2011 10:33 PM, Ignoramus562 wrote:
My second attempt to make that dog clutch, is to make it from a proper
diameter 12L14 round bar.

It seems to work a little better, this being a round bar already means
less machining, I fixed some bugs, redid the feedrate math, etc and so
far it seems to be working. There is 50 minutes machining time left.

The purpose of this is to make an adaptor to connect my servo motor
with a work gear box, to the knee.

Anyway, this 12L14 is the most amazing rusting machine imaginable, the
chips made 2 hours ago are already rusting despite the coolant.

So.

How do I make the finished product -- a 6 inch long 12L14 bar --
somewhat rust protected?

Right now, I think that I need to simply dry it, and cover with
"marine grease" inside or where any surfaces mate, and something oily,
but cleaner, outside.

Any other ideas?

i

"Ignoramus562" wrote in message
...

Any other ideas?


Oops missed that one first time around.

lol

Cheapest finish I know of is heat it to 400 or so then drop into a bucket of
used motor oil or similar.

More properly, one would use beeswax turpentine and linseed and call it a
"blacksmith finish"

YMMV