On Feb 20, 4:52*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
There's some gun people here, so thought I'd ask. *Also, guns do have a
slight metal content.

I want to wash some gun parts. *I need about a gallon, and I intend to store
it in a jug and reuse it. *Gun solvent is more expensive than REALLY good
single malt Scotch. *I was thinking of maybe washing on some solvent on gun
parts that have powder residue, like bolt, breech, barrel, trigger assembly,
etc. *Let it sit a bit, then wash it off in a bath of cheap liquid. *I will
need this also to clean some of my pistols, where almost the entire gun can
be submerged. *Is this a good idea, or is this a Q-tip/rag/lots of patience
thing?

Would rubbing alcohol or regular isopropyl work? *Another liquid? *And would
gun solvent evaporate if I let it sit too long between brushing and dipping
in final wash solution? *Don't want anything that will harm the bluing, or
the wood stocks.

I know that these parts can be cleaned with tiny brushes, pieces of dowel,
etc. *I just have this semi-auto rifle that looks like it has never been
cleaned, and it obviously is going to have to be cleaned in stages. *And how
about the inside of the gun that stays attached to the stock, and cannot be
dipped without getting some of the solvent on the stock?

Particularly, I'm working with a Rem 552 BDL with a very nice stock.

TIA

Steve

Separate action and stock FIRST. For removing crud, soaking in Simple
Green works, followed by a zap with the water-displacing oil of
choice. I use LPS-1. I have some stainless steam table pans I use.
You don't need gallons of bore solvent for removing crud. It'd work,
but it's a waste.

There are a number of books out there with detailed stripping
instructions, might be a trip to the library is in order. The one I
have is Rimfire Rifles by J.B. Wood, put out by the Gun Digest folks.
Don't strip the trigger group unless you need to.

Stan