Taking apart split-phase fractional HP motors isn't complicated, take some
pics with a digital camera if desired.

If the shaft is rusty, clean it up first with some shinin' cloth or
equivalent.

The end bells (case ends) should be marked with a file notch or prick punch
just to make re-assembly easier.. the power cord and oilers, etc (if
equipped) will then be in the same orientation as before.
There aren't any parts in these types of motors that will pop out and fly
away, only an occassional shim washer that may fall on the floor, if not
paying attention.

Remove one end bell (after removing the end-to-end case screws, and remove
the rotor.. it's that easy.

The shaft will cut fairly easily, although there will be some irregularity
due to the interrupted cut from the keyway slot.
Taking very slight finish cuts will generally correct the irregularity.

Re-assembly of these motors is also fairly simple. Add some oil to the felt
pads if the motor has the sleeve type bearings.
Put the rotor back in, and position the end bell for assembly, aligning the
mark. The bell may require some pressure to seat it in the case, and
removing any sharp edges from the mating surfaces will generally make
re-assembly very easy. Apply some candle/crayon wax or dry bar soap as a
lube and push the bell into the case.
Install the case screws and snug them a little, then begin to tighten them
gradually, crossing the the case diameter with each subsequent screw/nut, a
couple of turns each until the end bells are fully seated.

Spin the shaft by hand, and if the rotor doesn't coast a little, use a
little percussive tuning to align the bearings with the shaft for nearly
perfect alignment, by thumping the end bells with a chunk-o-wood, then
rechecking the rotor spin/coast.
When the rotor coasts, indicating very good alignment, finish tightening the
case screws.

Forget about the keyway since the pulley doesn't have one.. fill it with a
section of key stock (or other piece of steel or brass stock that fits the
slot) that's been filed down to the shaft diameter, but with a flat spot for
the setscrew to bite on.
Use a better/high quality setscrew (with an end that will bite/seat securely
in the piece of key stock) of an appropriate length that will engage all of
the threads in the pulley.
A drop or two of medium loctite/threadlocker on the setscrew will likely be
worthwhile.

Filing the shaft to size wouldn't be difficult if one could fabricate a
fixture with front and rear roller guides that straddle the shaft to prevent
filing the shaft off-center or tapered.
I've seen such single-roller guides as lathe attachments in old lathe
books.. which were apparently intended to keep the file flat/parallel to the
workpiece surface (spindle center axis), not for filing to a specific
diameter.
This sort of fixture would then need to be rigidly attached to the motor
base to attain the desired results.

It would be far less effort to disassemble the motor and turn the shaft on a
lathe either between centers (if needed for the shaft length), or chucked at
the back end (with a protective wrap of aluminum flashing, for example, to
prevent marring the bearing surface) with the output shaft centered at the
tailstock end.
Absolute precision isn't required on a low speed drill press motor shaft.

It's not likely that one will ever encounter a precision ground shaft on a
general purpose, utility-type motor.

As for the subject of smaller motors.. most fractional HP AC induction
motors (not including universal AC/DC types) are generally about the same
size as far as shaft to mounting surface. The rotors are longer in higher HP
ratings, but the cases are often the same diameter size.
Shaft sizes change with HP ratings.. it's not very common to see a 1/4 HP
motor with a 5/8" (but sometimes a 1/2") shaft.

The entire process of machining the motor shaft in a lathe and mounting the
finished motor with pulley, would probably only take an hour, and likely
less time for many experienced home shop metalworking types.

The only small issue with using this motor as intended would be that it may
be worthwhile to add a fiber or smooth thrust washer on the back end shaft,
since the motor will be oriented in shaft-up vertical position.
It wouldn't be required for motors with ball bearings, but may prevent
startup/shutdown noises in sleeve-bearing type motors.
A properly selected size of a single ball bearing placed in the closed back
end bell shaft bearing pocket (with a small dollop of grease) could also
take care of the issue.

Note: the shaft's end play shouldn't be reduced to zero.. an improvised
thrust bearing should only give the back end of the shaft something to rest
on.

--
WB
..........


"Searcher7" wrote in message
...
I decided to get back to putting together an old table top drill press
that had never been used. I proceeded to connect the AC and the pulley
to the motor shaft, only to find out that the pulley has an I.D. of
1/2" and the motor shaft has O.D. of 5/8". (This explains why the
previous owner never finished it).

Outside of trying to find another pulley set I was wondering if I
should look into machining the present motor pulley by boring the
1-1/2" I.D. long from 1/2" diameter to 5/8" diameter.

Also, the pulley has a set screw, and the motor shaft has a key-way.
The problem is that the set screw *may* be too small for the key-way,
in which case I'd also have to re-drill for a larger set screw.

And all this after I figure out whether this would be best done on a
lathe or a mill, and then how to work hold for both operations.

I'd appreciated any advice on whether a project like this is
plausible, or should I just keep my eyes open for a pulley set that
fits.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Feb 26, 5:45 pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2011-02-26, Searcher7 wrote:

On Feb 23, 10:37 pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:

[ ... ]

Horizontally -- both side-to-side and fore-and-aft. That will
be your worst case play. If the chuck isn't particularly bad on
centering, you won't have the drill bit tip moving in circles.

Well in that case it's as solid as a rock. There is no movement at all
on the horizontal plain.

Great! This alone makes it worth fixing up. (Granted, the
Taiwanese and Chinese castings are a bit shy on metal, so things like
the table will flex with a heavy drilling force, causing the hole to be
at an angle -- so you want to start with a smaller drill (about the
diameter of the chisel point on the next drill size up) and then work up
in steps so you don't have to lean on the feed lever to get through the
workpiece.

The table seems pretty rock solid. (But I have had access to many
drill presses). I wouldn't be able to lean hard enough to make the
table flex.

Once I finish fixing them, I'd like to be able to run eight of my
arcade games at the same time, but I don't know if that is plausible
the front room.(They are rated to pull about 3 amps each).

No way -- Jos ! Not on one breaker. I said before that I can't
read the current rating of the breakers, and your lastest jpeg did not
help. *But* -- normal breaker for outlets is rated at 15A, some (which
require heavier duty outlets) is 20A. I don't know what gauge wiring is
going up to the apartment, but I sincerely doubt that it is enough to
handle even 20A. And your eight arcade games add up to 24A between
them. And this is counting without the ceiling lights run from the same
breaker. :-) Mount Compact Fluorescent lamps and you will reduce the
total current draw -- but still not all eight machines at once.

Ok. I did some checking and two or three of my games can pull 3amps
max. and the other five vary between 1 and 1.5. Considering one should
stay around 2/3rds and definitely not exceed 80% of the breakers
capacity all eight would still be too much. (I'd have to runa a long
extention cord to stay within parameters).

Even as I type this I notice a quick/temporary dimming/brightening of
the light in the room I'm in. It happens occasionally, but after a
while it's relegated to the sub-conscious and you don't notice it, but
this subject of conversation has made me notice it again. (I'm the
only one in the apartment and I have no idea what causes this).

Heavy loads being turned on and off -- likely in the same
building, or in another building nearby. It could be an electric water
heater switching on and off, or a fan motor in a heating system (if you
have forced air heating and cooling (if any)), or a disposal in another
apartment, or a washing machine or dryer, or even your own refrigerator
cycling.

I forgot about the refridgerator. :-)

Right now (sort of spring-like weather) our feed to our house is
at 119 VAC. Mid summer, when the air conditioning is working -- not
just here but at other houses fed from the same transformer -- it runs
closer to 116 VAC, and sometimes as low as 114 VAC. Peak that I've seen
is about 121 VAC. (I've got an expanded-scale AC voltmeter sitting on
top of my computer within easy view. It's scale goes from 100 to 140
VAC, with the center being 120 VAC in red as the nominal standard.

Oh yeah. AC would be a must with eight games running in the summer
months. But that's an extreme case scenario anyway. I probably will
only need 4 games on at a time. (Unless I have an arcade party with a
few people over). :-)

On a single circuit breaker there are 5 outlets and four light
fixtures between the bathroom, kitchen, dining room and rear hallway.
One kitchen outlet is iffy and the bathroom outlet(which was actually
replaced several years ago) doesn't work.

Calculating from the wattage of the microwave and convection ovens I
get 19.5 amps together. But I cannot have them on at the same time.

Even subtracting the overhead lamps, that says that the breaker
is likely 15A not 20A -- supporting other deductions and suppositions
above.

Hmmm. In that case the breaker doesn't trip as fast as it should. The
last couple of times I forgot and had bothte microwave and the
convection oven on at the same time it was probably as much as 5
minutes before everything went out.

So I *believe* that this means that you *do* have both sides
brought up to the apartment, so if you *really* needed 240 VAC, you
could run long cords to two outlets to make the adaptor.

And the breakers, at least, are designed to accept either copper
or aluminum wires. *Hope* that they don't have aluminum wiring in that
place. If it is the original wiring, it should be copper. Only if it
was re-wired during a fairly short period would it be likely to have
aluminum wiring.

And I can't make out the current rating of each breaker.
Normally it is on the end of the handle, but that is sufficiently out of
focus so I can't tell.

Well, without going back down there here is one more of the dozen or
so pics I took:http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Tools/IMG_023...

And cropping that to the left-hand breaker, and rotating it and
enlarging it I read:

Bryant
BR 115 (I think)
Type ?R
CU 10-14
AL 8-12
(the last two cover the gauge ranges for either copper or aluminum wire
which can fit it and be "safely" used with it.)

The handle has a stylized 'B' (for Bryant) on the end, and the
"ON" visible to show it is switched on.

I'm glad it's not Federal Pacific. :-)

From what a bit of web searching shows, Bryant breakers are
available with color coded handles to show what current rating each is,
but I can't find the actual chart of color vs current rating on the
web. The Bryant page shows me things like central air conditioning
systems, not breakers. :-(

It *might* have the rating printed on the side -- or you could
go to an electrical supply store (or likely Home Depot's electrical
department) to find out what current a blue or turquoise handle means.
I *did* discover that they were also available with the standard black
handles -- and those might have the trip current listed on the end of
the handle.

Outside of the 100 imprinted on the main, the blue breaker switches
have 15 on each one.

O.K. The main breakers do have their rating on the ends of the
handles -- 100A -- so you should be able to get more power up there if
there is an easy way to run the cables needed. (Even if each outlet
individually had wires down to the breaker box -- you could install more
breakers to split the load between breakers.) However -- if all the
wires are joined at the apartment, and run down to the breaker box, this
might be a very expensive fix, involving tearing out wallboard to
gain access to the wiring.

This is interesting. But since it is not plausible for me to upgrade
to anything else that would be 3 phase(ie: Bigger, heavier, noisier)
while living in this apartment would it really be worth it to
seriously discuss this with the landlord?

How likely is the landlord to object to the tools which you
already have there? What kind of floors? If carpet or hardwood, he
will likely object to the metal chips which can get ground into the
floor.

My landlord has seen all the machines I have. Tools as well as games.
But I'm definitely pushing it.

And the "tool room" has a beat up brown linoleum floor. :-)

(When my landlord first saw this drill press three years ago he
conveyed his surprise at how "heavy duty" it was).

Hmm ... is it possible to set up some of the tools in the
basement -- and run them from new breakers in the box? That would be
easier to do -- if you could trust things to not disappear, or to be
used without your presence.

Not really. The basement is more of a storage room. There is a closet
with stairs that lead from my apartment all the way down to the
basement. This is where I have to run the work light before I go down
there.

Anyway I just brought up my little Black & Decker 7-1/2" band saw.
Since it is obsolete it looks like this may also be a project. :-)

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Feb 27, 5:07*pm, "Wild_Bill" wrote:
Taking apart split-phase fractional HP motors isn't complicated, take some
pics with a digital camera if desired.

If the shaft is rusty, clean it up first with some shinin' cloth or
equivalent.

The end bells (case ends) should be marked with a file notch or prick punch
just to make re-assembly easier.. the power cord and oilers, etc (if
equipped) will then be in the same orientation as before.
There aren't any parts in these types of motors that will pop out and fly
away, only an occassional shim washer that may fall on the floor, if not
paying attention.

Remove one end bell (after removing the end-to-end case screws, and remove
the rotor.. it's that easy.

The shaft will cut fairly easily, although there will be some irregularity
due to the interrupted cut from the keyway slot.
Taking very slight finish cuts will generally correct the irregularity.

Re-assembly of these motors is also fairly simple. Add some oil to the felt
pads if the motor has the sleeve type bearings.
Put the rotor back in, and position the end bell for assembly, aligning the
mark. The bell may require some pressure to seat it in the case, and
removing any sharp edges from the mating surfaces will generally make
re-assembly very easy. Apply some candle/crayon wax or dry bar soap as a
lube and push the bell into the case.
Install the case screws and snug them a little, then begin to tighten them
gradually, crossing the the case diameter with each subsequent screw/nut, a
couple of turns each until the end bells are fully seated.

Spin the shaft by hand, and if the rotor doesn't coast a little, use a
little percussive tuning to align the bearings with the shaft for nearly
perfect alignment, by thumping the end bells with a chunk-o-wood, then
rechecking the rotor spin/coast.
When the rotor coasts, indicating very good alignment, finish tightening the
case screws.

Forget about the keyway since the pulley doesn't have one.. fill it with a
section of key stock (or other piece of steel or brass stock that fits the
slot) that's been filed down to the shaft diameter, but with a flat spot for
the setscrew to bite on.
Use a better/high quality setscrew (with an end that will bite/seat securely
in the piece of key stock) of an appropriate length that will engage all of
the threads in the pulley.
A drop or two of medium loctite/threadlocker on the setscrew will likely be
worthwhile.

Filing the shaft to size wouldn't be difficult if one could fabricate a
fixture with front and rear roller guides that straddle the shaft to prevent
filing the shaft off-center or tapered.
I've seen such single-roller guides as lathe attachments in old lathe
books.. which were apparently intended to keep the file flat/parallel to the
workpiece surface (spindle center axis), not for filing to a specific
diameter.
This sort of fixture would then need to be rigidly attached to the motor
base to attain the desired results.

It would be far less effort to disassemble the motor and turn the shaft on a
lathe either between centers (if needed for the shaft length), or chucked at
the back end (with a protective wrap of aluminum flashing, for example, to
prevent marring the bearing surface) with the output shaft centered at the
tailstock end.
Absolute precision isn't required on a low speed drill press motor shaft.

It's not likely that one will ever encounter a precision ground shaft on a
general purpose, utility-type motor.

As for the subject of smaller motors.. most fractional HP AC induction
motors (not including universal AC/DC types) are generally about the same
size as far as shaft to mounting surface. The rotors are longer in higher HP
ratings, but the cases are often the same diameter size.
Shaft sizes change with HP ratings.. it's not very common to see a 1/4 HP
motor with a 5/8" (but sometimes a 1/2") shaft.

The entire process of machining the motor shaft in a lathe and mounting the
finished motor with pulley, would probably only take an hour, and likely
less time for many experienced home shop metalworking types.

The only small issue with using this motor as intended would be that it may
be worthwhile to add a fiber or smooth thrust washer on the back end shaft,
since the motor will be oriented in shaft-up vertical position.
It wouldn't be required for motors with ball bearings, but may prevent
startup/shutdown noises in sleeve-bearing type motors.
A properly selected size of a single ball bearing placed in the closed back
end bell shaft bearing pocket (with a small dollop of grease) could also
take care of the issue.

Note: the shaft's end play shouldn't be reduced to zero.. an improvised
thrust bearing should only give the back end of the shaft something to rest
on.

--
WB

Thanks.

I won't have to take the motor apart any time soon because I'll be
looking for a smaller one for the drill press, but have copied you for
future reference. (I think I'll use the motor I have for my band saw
project).

Thanks again.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I've found good deals on small motors from 1/4 to 2 HP at flea markets and
garage sales. Used split-phase fractional HP motors are somewhat abundant,
and after some cleaning and a little oil, they usually work fine IME,
(painting optional).

For a drill press, you wouldn't absolutely need one that utilizes a
capacitor for capacitor Start (the hump on the case, usually), and that way
you can avoid the odds of a failed capacitor.
Motor Start capacitors aren't expensive, but sometimes just another expense.

It would probably be worthwhile to avoid appliance motors (washer, dryer,
furnace etc) since they sometimes have unusual wiring jumpering that may not
be easily found for older models. These types of appliance motors are
usually easily identified as they often have lots of ventilation holes
around the case, and often utilize a cradle mounting base.

General purpose utility/replacement motors are usually best suited to
mounting on a machine.. Dayton, Century, Marathon and other domestic U.S.
made models are typically good choices for machine motors.. with the type of
case you'd want, having the mounting "foot" welded to the case.
These types of motors are typically intended for horizontal use, so you may
need to consider the thrust washer/shim mentioned earlier for vertical use
on a DP.

By checking the motor data label, one can find some useful info.. ball
bearing, RPM, Voltage(s), and whether the motor is reversible.. some are
only wired for a single direction of rotation, so you'd want a CW clockwise
rotation for a DP (CW viewed from the shaft end).

It's probably worthwhile to avoid PSC type motors for drill press use, and
they can be recognized by having a capacitor value listed on the spec/data
label.. such as 10uF or MF, or mF (a low value number from about 4 to 10).
The PSC types are better suited to fans, blowers etc.

If you can find a suitable motor size with the correct shaft size, and the
shaft just has a flat instead of a keyway, that will make your pulley
installation simple.

--
WB
..........


"Searcher7" wrote in message
...
On Feb 27, 5:07 pm, "Wild_Bill" wrote:
Taking apart split-phase fractional HP motors isn't complicated, take some
pics with a digital camera if desired.

If the shaft is rusty, clean it up first with some shinin' cloth or
equivalent.

The end bells (case ends) should be marked with a file notch or prick
punch
just to make re-assembly easier.. the power cord and oilers, etc (if
equipped) will then be in the same orientation as before.
There aren't any parts in these types of motors that will pop out and fly
away, only an occassional shim washer that may fall on the floor, if not
paying attention.

Remove one end bell (after removing the end-to-end case screws, and remove
the rotor.. it's that easy.

The shaft will cut fairly easily, although there will be some irregularity
due to the interrupted cut from the keyway slot.
Taking very slight finish cuts will generally correct the irregularity.

Re-assembly of these motors is also fairly simple. Add some oil to the
felt
pads if the motor has the sleeve type bearings.
Put the rotor back in, and position the end bell for assembly, aligning
the
mark. The bell may require some pressure to seat it in the case, and
removing any sharp edges from the mating surfaces will generally make
re-assembly very easy. Apply some candle/crayon wax or dry bar soap as a
lube and push the bell into the case.
Install the case screws and snug them a little, then begin to tighten them
gradually, crossing the the case diameter with each subsequent screw/nut,
a
couple of turns each until the end bells are fully seated.

Spin the shaft by hand, and if the rotor doesn't coast a little, use a
little percussive tuning to align the bearings with the shaft for nearly
perfect alignment, by thumping the end bells with a chunk-o-wood, then
rechecking the rotor spin/coast.
When the rotor coasts, indicating very good alignment, finish tightening
the
case screws.

Forget about the keyway since the pulley doesn't have one.. fill it with a
section of key stock (or other piece of steel or brass stock that fits the
slot) that's been filed down to the shaft diameter, but with a flat spot
for
the setscrew to bite on.
Use a better/high quality setscrew (with an end that will bite/seat
securely
in the piece of key stock) of an appropriate length that will engage all
of
the threads in the pulley.
A drop or two of medium loctite/threadlocker on the setscrew will likely
be
worthwhile.

Filing the shaft to size wouldn't be difficult if one could fabricate a
fixture with front and rear roller guides that straddle the shaft to
prevent
filing the shaft off-center or tapered.
I've seen such single-roller guides as lathe attachments in old lathe
books.. which were apparently intended to keep the file flat/parallel to
the
workpiece surface (spindle center axis), not for filing to a specific
diameter.
This sort of fixture would then need to be rigidly attached to the motor
base to attain the desired results.

It would be far less effort to disassemble the motor and turn the shaft on
a
lathe either between centers (if needed for the shaft length), or chucked
at
the back end (with a protective wrap of aluminum flashing, for example, to
prevent marring the bearing surface) with the output shaft centered at the
tailstock end.
Absolute precision isn't required on a low speed drill press motor shaft.

It's not likely that one will ever encounter a precision ground shaft on a
general purpose, utility-type motor.

As for the subject of smaller motors.. most fractional HP AC induction
motors (not including universal AC/DC types) are generally about the same
size as far as shaft to mounting surface. The rotors are longer in higher
HP
ratings, but the cases are often the same diameter size.
Shaft sizes change with HP ratings.. it's not very common to see a 1/4 HP
motor with a 5/8" (but sometimes a 1/2") shaft.

The entire process of machining the motor shaft in a lathe and mounting
the
finished motor with pulley, would probably only take an hour, and likely
less time for many experienced home shop metalworking types.

The only small issue with using this motor as intended would be that it
may
be worthwhile to add a fiber or smooth thrust washer on the back end
shaft,
since the motor will be oriented in shaft-up vertical position.
It wouldn't be required for motors with ball bearings, but may prevent
startup/shutdown noises in sleeve-bearing type motors.
A properly selected size of a single ball bearing placed in the closed
back
end bell shaft bearing pocket (with a small dollop of grease) could also
take care of the issue.

Note: the shaft's end play shouldn't be reduced to zero.. an improvised
thrust bearing should only give the back end of the shaft something to
rest
on.

--
WB

Thanks.

I won't have to take the motor apart any time soon because I'll be
looking for a smaller one for the drill press, but have copied you for
future reference. (I think I'll use the motor I have for my band saw
project).

Thanks again.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Wednesday, March 2, 2011 at 6:34:35 AM UTC-5, Wild_Bill wrote:
I've found good deals on small motors from 1/4 to 2 HP at flea markets and
garage sales. Used split-phase fractional HP motors are somewhat abundant,
and after some cleaning and a little oil, they usually work fine IME,
(painting optional).

For a drill press, you wouldn't absolutely need one that utilizes a
capacitor for capacitor Start (the hump on the case, usually), and that way
you can avoid the odds of a failed capacitor.
Motor Start capacitors aren't expensive, but sometimes just another expense.

It would probably be worthwhile to avoid appliance motors (washer, dryer,
furnace etc) since they sometimes have unusual wiring jumpering that may not
be easily found for older models. These types of appliance motors are
usually easily identified as they often have lots of ventilation holes
around the case, and often utilize a cradle mounting base.

General purpose utility/replacement motors are usually best suited to
mounting on a machine.. Dayton, Century, Marathon and other domestic U.S.
made models are typically good choices for machine motors.. with the type of
case you'd want, having the mounting "foot" welded to the case.
These types of motors are typically intended for horizontal use, so you may
need to consider the thrust washer/shim mentioned earlier for vertical use
on a DP.

By checking the motor data label, one can find some useful info.. ball
bearing, RPM, Voltage(s), and whether the motor is reversible.. some are
only wired for a single direction of rotation, so you'd want a CW clockwise
rotation for a DP (CW viewed from the shaft end).

It's probably worthwhile to avoid PSC type motors for drill press use, and
they can be recognized by having a capacitor value listed on the spec/data
label.. such as 10uF or MF, or mF (a low value number from about 4 to 10).
The PSC types are better suited to fans, blowers etc.

If you can find a suitable motor size with the correct shaft size, and the
shaft just has a flat instead of a keyway, that will make your pulley
installation simple.

--
WB
.........


"Searcher7" wrote in message
...
On Feb 27, 5:07 pm, "Wild_Bill" wrote:
Taking apart split-phase fractional HP motors isn't complicated, take some
pics with a digital camera if desired.

If the shaft is rusty, clean it up first with some shinin' cloth or
equivalent.

The end bells (case ends) should be marked with a file notch or prick
punch
just to make re-assembly easier.. the power cord and oilers, etc (if
equipped) will then be in the same orientation as before.
There aren't any parts in these types of motors that will pop out and fly
away, only an occassional shim washer that may fall on the floor, if not
paying attention.

Remove one end bell (after removing the end-to-end case screws, and remove
the rotor.. it's that easy.

The shaft will cut fairly easily, although there will be some irregularity
due to the interrupted cut from the keyway slot.
Taking very slight finish cuts will generally correct the irregularity.

Re-assembly of these motors is also fairly simple. Add some oil to the
felt
pads if the motor has the sleeve type bearings.
Put the rotor back in, and position the end bell for assembly, aligning
the
mark. The bell may require some pressure to seat it in the case, and
removing any sharp edges from the mating surfaces will generally make
re-assembly very easy. Apply some candle/crayon wax or dry bar soap as a
lube and push the bell into the case.
Install the case screws and snug them a little, then begin to tighten them
gradually, crossing the the case diameter with each subsequent screw/nut,
a
couple of turns each until the end bells are fully seated.

Spin the shaft by hand, and if the rotor doesn't coast a little, use a
little percussive tuning to align the bearings with the shaft for nearly
perfect alignment, by thumping the end bells with a chunk-o-wood, then
rechecking the rotor spin/coast.
When the rotor coasts, indicating very good alignment, finish tightening
the
case screws.

Forget about the keyway since the pulley doesn't have one.. fill it with a
section of key stock (or other piece of steel or brass stock that fits the
slot) that's been filed down to the shaft diameter, but with a flat spot
for
the setscrew to bite on.
Use a better/high quality setscrew (with an end that will bite/seat
securely
in the piece of key stock) of an appropriate length that will engage all
of
the threads in the pulley.
A drop or two of medium loctite/threadlocker on the setscrew will likely
be
worthwhile.

Filing the shaft to size wouldn't be difficult if one could fabricate a
fixture with front and rear roller guides that straddle the shaft to
prevent
filing the shaft off-center or tapered.
I've seen such single-roller guides as lathe attachments in old lathe
books.. which were apparently intended to keep the file flat/parallel to
the
workpiece surface (spindle center axis), not for filing to a specific
diameter.
This sort of fixture would then need to be rigidly attached to the motor
base to attain the desired results.

It would be far less effort to disassemble the motor and turn the shaft on
a
lathe either between centers (if needed for the shaft length), or chucked
at
the back end (with a protective wrap of aluminum flashing, for example, to
prevent marring the bearing surface) with the output shaft centered at the
tailstock end.
Absolute precision isn't required on a low speed drill press motor shaft.

It's not likely that one will ever encounter a precision ground shaft on a
general purpose, utility-type motor.

As for the subject of smaller motors.. most fractional HP AC induction
motors (not including universal AC/DC types) are generally about the same
size as far as shaft to mounting surface. The rotors are longer in higher
HP
ratings, but the cases are often the same diameter size.
Shaft sizes change with HP ratings.. it's not very common to see a 1/4 HP
motor with a 5/8" (but sometimes a 1/2") shaft.

The entire process of machining the motor shaft in a lathe and mounting
the
finished motor with pulley, would probably only take an hour, and likely
less time for many experienced home shop metalworking types.

The only small issue with using this motor as intended would be that it
may
be worthwhile to add a fiber or smooth thrust washer on the back end
shaft,
since the motor will be oriented in shaft-up vertical position.
It wouldn't be required for motors with ball bearings, but may prevent
startup/shutdown noises in sleeve-bearing type motors.
A properly selected size of a single ball bearing placed in the closed
back
end bell shaft bearing pocket (with a small dollop of grease) could also
take care of the issue.

Note: the shaft's end play shouldn't be reduced to zero.. an improvised
thrust bearing should only give the back end of the shaft something to
rest
on.

--
WB

Thanks.

I won't have to take the motor apart any time soon because I'll be
looking for a smaller one for the drill press, but have copied you for
future reference. (I think I'll use the motor I have for my band saw
project).

Thanks again.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I've come across some pulleys with the correct bore diameter. Can anyone tell me if it is ideal to have 5 step pulley drill press, or is a lower number more desirable?

I ask because I believe that 10 speeds on a bike are totally unnecessary.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Wed, 24 Aug 2016 15:32:06 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I've come across some pulleys with the correct bore diameter. Can anyone tell me if it is ideal to have 5 step pulley drill press, or is a lower number more desirable?

Zero. A VFD seems optimal to me. But if you don't have the cash for
that, a 5-step pulley should be OK.


I ask because I believe that 10 speeds on a bike are totally unnecessary.

Right, it takes 21 to do the job. At least until the bike gets
electrified.

--
The great thing about getting older is that
you don't lose all the other ages you've been.
-- Madeleine L'Engle

On Wed, 24 Aug 2016 15:32:06 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Wednesday, March 2, 2011 at 6:34:35 AM UTC-5, Wild_Bill wrote:
I've found good deals on small motors from 1/4 to 2 HP at flea markets and
garage sales. Used split-phase fractional HP motors are somewhat abundant,
and after some cleaning and a little oil, they usually work fine IME,
(painting optional).

For a drill press, you wouldn't absolutely need one that utilizes a
capacitor for capacitor Start (the hump on the case, usually), and that way
you can avoid the odds of a failed capacitor.
Motor Start capacitors aren't expensive, but sometimes just another expense.

It would probably be worthwhile to avoid appliance motors (washer, dryer,
furnace etc) since they sometimes have unusual wiring jumpering that may not
be easily found for older models. These types of appliance motors are
usually easily identified as they often have lots of ventilation holes
around the case, and often utilize a cradle mounting base.

General purpose utility/replacement motors are usually best suited to
mounting on a machine.. Dayton, Century, Marathon and other domestic U.S.
made models are typically good choices for machine motors.. with the type of
case you'd want, having the mounting "foot" welded to the case.
These types of motors are typically intended for horizontal use, so you may
need to consider the thrust washer/shim mentioned earlier for vertical use
on a DP.

By checking the motor data label, one can find some useful info.. ball
bearing, RPM, Voltage(s), and whether the motor is reversible.. some are
only wired for a single direction of rotation, so you'd want a CW clockwise
rotation for a DP (CW viewed from the shaft end).

It's probably worthwhile to avoid PSC type motors for drill press use, and
they can be recognized by having a capacitor value listed on the spec/data
label.. such as 10uF or MF, or mF (a low value number from about 4 to 10).
The PSC types are better suited to fans, blowers etc.

If you can find a suitable motor size with the correct shaft size, and the
shaft just has a flat instead of a keyway, that will make your pulley
installation simple.

--
WB
.........


"Searcher7" wrote in message
...
On Feb 27, 5:07 pm, "Wild_Bill" wrote:
Taking apart split-phase fractional HP motors isn't complicated, take some
pics with a digital camera if desired.

If the shaft is rusty, clean it up first with some shinin' cloth or
equivalent.

The end bells (case ends) should be marked with a file notch or prick
punch
just to make re-assembly easier.. the power cord and oilers, etc (if
equipped) will then be in the same orientation as before.
There aren't any parts in these types of motors that will pop out and fly
away, only an occassional shim washer that may fall on the floor, if not
paying attention.

Remove one end bell (after removing the end-to-end case screws, and remove
the rotor.. it's that easy.

The shaft will cut fairly easily, although there will be some irregularity
due to the interrupted cut from the keyway slot.
Taking very slight finish cuts will generally correct the irregularity.

Re-assembly of these motors is also fairly simple. Add some oil to the
felt
pads if the motor has the sleeve type bearings.
Put the rotor back in, and position the end bell for assembly, aligning
the
mark. The bell may require some pressure to seat it in the case, and
removing any sharp edges from the mating surfaces will generally make
re-assembly very easy. Apply some candle/crayon wax or dry bar soap as a
lube and push the bell into the case.
Install the case screws and snug them a little, then begin to tighten them
gradually, crossing the the case diameter with each subsequent screw/nut,
a
couple of turns each until the end bells are fully seated.

Spin the shaft by hand, and if the rotor doesn't coast a little, use a
little percussive tuning to align the bearings with the shaft for nearly
perfect alignment, by thumping the end bells with a chunk-o-wood, then
rechecking the rotor spin/coast.
When the rotor coasts, indicating very good alignment, finish tightening
the
case screws.

Forget about the keyway since the pulley doesn't have one.. fill it with a
section of key stock (or other piece of steel or brass stock that fits the
slot) that's been filed down to the shaft diameter, but with a flat spot
for
the setscrew to bite on.
Use a better/high quality setscrew (with an end that will bite/seat
securely
in the piece of key stock) of an appropriate length that will engage all
of
the threads in the pulley.
A drop or two of medium loctite/threadlocker on the setscrew will likely
be
worthwhile.

Filing the shaft to size wouldn't be difficult if one could fabricate a
fixture with front and rear roller guides that straddle the shaft to
prevent
filing the shaft off-center or tapered.
I've seen such single-roller guides as lathe attachments in old lathe
books.. which were apparently intended to keep the file flat/parallel to
the
workpiece surface (spindle center axis), not for filing to a specific
diameter.
This sort of fixture would then need to be rigidly attached to the motor
base to attain the desired results.

It would be far less effort to disassemble the motor and turn the shaft on
a
lathe either between centers (if needed for the shaft length), or chucked
at
the back end (with a protective wrap of aluminum flashing, for example, to
prevent marring the bearing surface) with the output shaft centered at the
tailstock end.
Absolute precision isn't required on a low speed drill press motor shaft.

It's not likely that one will ever encounter a precision ground shaft on a
general purpose, utility-type motor.

As for the subject of smaller motors.. most fractional HP AC induction
motors (not including universal AC/DC types) are generally about the same
size as far as shaft to mounting surface. The rotors are longer in higher
HP
ratings, but the cases are often the same diameter size.
Shaft sizes change with HP ratings.. it's not very common to see a 1/4 HP
motor with a 5/8" (but sometimes a 1/2") shaft.

The entire process of machining the motor shaft in a lathe and mounting
the
finished motor with pulley, would probably only take an hour, and likely
less time for many experienced home shop metalworking types.

The only small issue with using this motor as intended would be that it
may
be worthwhile to add a fiber or smooth thrust washer on the back end
shaft,
since the motor will be oriented in shaft-up vertical position.
It wouldn't be required for motors with ball bearings, but may prevent
startup/shutdown noises in sleeve-bearing type motors.
A properly selected size of a single ball bearing placed in the closed
back
end bell shaft bearing pocket (with a small dollop of grease) could also
take care of the issue.

Note: the shaft's end play shouldn't be reduced to zero.. an improvised
thrust bearing should only give the back end of the shaft something to
rest
on.

--
WB

Thanks.

I won't have to take the motor apart any time soon because I'll be
looking for a smaller one for the drill press, but have copied you for
future reference. (I think I'll use the motor I have for my band saw
project).

Thanks again.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I've come across some pulleys with the correct bore diameter. Can anyone tell me if it is ideal to have 5 step pulley drill press, or is a lower number more desirable?

I ask because I believe that 10 speeds on a bike are totally unnecessary.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Usually aren't a pair of pulleys used on a drill press. One mounted
with the large sheave on the top and the other on the bottom giving a
5 step speed range :-)

As for a bicycle, 10 speeds on the flat may well be unnecessary but
when you get to the hills you may want even more :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

"John B." wrote in message
...
...................
Usually aren't a pair of pulleys used on a drill press. One mounted
with the large sheave on the top and the other on the bottom giving
a
5 step speed range :-)

As for a bicycle, 10 speeds on the flat may well be unnecessary but
when you get to the hills you may want even more :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides/drill_speed

I printed and laminated a spreadsheet showing the RPM and cutting
speed in SFM of common tool diameters for the six belt positions on my
Clausing. Its designer chose 180, 350, 600, 1000, 1900 and 3250 RPM.

It's usually at 600 RPM which is slow enough to cut mild steel with up
to 1/2" tools and not too inconveniently low for shallow holes with
small bits. 180 RPM allows flycutting cast iron and hole saws up to 2"
(with the belt loosened), 3250 RPM is good for milling narrow slots in
aluminum. S&D drills from 9/16" to 1" run at 350 RPM. It's a real 700
Lb milling machine but I use it mostly for drilling.
--jsw

On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 at 3:32:11 PM UTC-7, wrote:

Can anyone tell me if it is ideal to have 5 step pulley drill press, or is a lower number more desirable?

You probably want a second and third drill press, actually. Spindle
speed is very important sometimes.

Winding springs, all five speeds are too fast.
Putting an 0.040" hole in chrome-nickel superalloy, all five speeds are too slow.

"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
....
Putting an 0.040" hole in chrome-nickel superalloy, all five speeds
are too slow.

Does 4130 Prehard count?

--jsw

On Fri, 26 Aug 2016 19:33:22 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 at 3:32:11 PM UTC-7, wrote:

Can anyone tell me if it is ideal to have 5 step pulley drill press, or is a lower number more desirable?

You probably want a second and third drill press, actually. Spindle
speed is very important sometimes.

Winding springs, all five speeds are too fast.
Putting an 0.040" hole in chrome-nickel superalloy, all five speeds are too slow.

I added an additional "idler" pulley to one drill press that
multiplies the number of speeds. See http://tinyurl.com/gwuj3v8
which is quite useful.
--
cheers,

John B.

"John B." wrote in message
...
On Fri, 26 Aug 2016 19:33:22 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd

wrote:

On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 at 3:32:11 PM UTC-7,
wrote:

Can anyone tell me if it is ideal to have 5 step pulley drill
press, or is a lower number more desirable?

You probably want a second and third drill press, actually.
Spindle
speed is very important sometimes.

Winding springs, all five speeds are too fast.
Putting an 0.040" hole in chrome-nickel superalloy, all five speeds
are too slow.

I added an additional "idler" pulley to one drill press that
multiplies the number of speeds. See http://tinyurl.com/gwuj3v8
which is quite useful.
--
cheers,

John B.

On my Clausing the intermediate pulley shaft slides and clamps in a
tee slot, which might be easier to retrofit than a pivot shaft but is
difficult to adjust because it tilts from free play when loosened and
tightening the clamping knob on top pulls it upright and changes the
belt tension.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/clausing%20vertical/index.html

--jsw

Ok, obviously the more steps the better.

But are there any foreseeable problems using a 1/2" chuck pulley and a 5/8" motor pulley in the drill press?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Monday, September 12, 2016 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Ok, obviously the more steps the better.

But are there any foreseeable problems using a 1/2" chuck pulley and a 5/8" motor pulley in the drill press?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I settled on a 5=step aluminum pulley for the motor.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Mon, 19 Sep 2016 14:50:10 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 12, 2016 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Ok, obviously the more steps the better.

But are there any foreseeable problems using a 1/2" chuck pulley and a 5/8" motor pulley in the drill press?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I settled on a 5=step aluminum pulley for the motor.

So, did you end up turning it yourself (more satisfying) on a lathe or
did you buy one (less satisfying), Darren?

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

On Tuesday, September 20, 2016 at 1:22:24 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2016 14:50:10 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 12, 2016 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Ok, obviously the more steps the better.

But are there any foreseeable problems using a 1/2" chuck pulley and a 5/8" motor pulley in the drill press?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I settled on a 5=step aluminum pulley for the motor.

So, did you end up turning it yourself (more satisfying) on a lathe or
did you buy one (less satisfying), Darren?

Actually I won one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/222250636823

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 16:35:54 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 20, 2016 at 1:22:24 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2016 14:50:10 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 12, 2016 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Ok, obviously the more steps the better.

But are there any foreseeable problems using a 1/2" chuck pulley and a 5/8" motor pulley in the drill press?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I settled on a 5=step aluminum pulley for the motor.

So, did you end up turning it yourself (more satisfying) on a lathe or
did you buy one (less satisfying), Darren?

Actually I won one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/222250636823

IOW, you bought one from an eBay vendor for $20.80. OK.

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

On Monday, September 26, 2016 at 8:54:53 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 16:35:54 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 20, 2016 at 1:22:24 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2016 14:50:10 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 12, 2016 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Ok, obviously the more steps the better.

But are there any foreseeable problems using a 1/2" chuck pulley and a 5/8" motor pulley in the drill press?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I settled on a 5=step aluminum pulley for the motor.

So, did you end up turning it yourself (more satisfying) on a lathe or
did you buy one (less satisfying), Darren?

Actually I won one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/222250636823

IOW, you bought one from an eBay vendor for $20.80. OK.

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

It was actually the cheapest 5-step pulley on Ebay. :-)

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 16:32:13 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 26, 2016 at 8:54:53 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 16:35:54 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 20, 2016 at 1:22:24 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2016 14:50:10 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 12, 2016 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Ok, obviously the more steps the better.

But are there any foreseeable problems using a 1/2" chuck pulley and a 5/8" motor pulley in the drill press?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I settled on a 5=step aluminum pulley for the motor.

So, did you end up turning it yourself (more satisfying) on a lathe or
did you buy one (less satisfying), Darren?

Actually I won one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/222250636823

IOW, you bought one from an eBay vendor for $20.80. OK.

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

It was actually the cheapest 5-step pulley on Ebay. :-)

Yeah, that wasn't too bad a price. But "won" sounded like you got a
freebie. How's it working?

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 9:57:41 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 16:32:13 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 26, 2016 at 8:54:53 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 16:35:54 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 20, 2016 at 1:22:24 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2016 14:50:10 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 12, 2016 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Ok, obviously the more steps the better.

But are there any foreseeable problems using a 1/2" chuck pulley and a 5/8" motor pulley in the drill press?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I settled on a 5=step aluminum pulley for the motor.

So, did you end up turning it yourself (more satisfying) on a lathe or
did you buy one (less satisfying), Darren?

Actually I won one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/222250636823

IOW, you bought one from an eBay vendor for $20.80. OK.

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

It was actually the cheapest 5-step pulley on Ebay. :-)

Yeah, that wasn't too bad a price. But "won" sounded like you got a
freebie. How's it working?

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

I did get another tool with it from the same seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/222257774089

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Sat, 8 Oct 2016 13:25:44 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 9:57:41 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 16:32:13 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 26, 2016 at 8:54:53 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 16:35:54 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 20, 2016 at 1:22:24 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2016 14:50:10 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 12, 2016 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Ok, obviously the more steps the better.

But are there any foreseeable problems using a 1/2" chuck pulley and a 5/8" motor pulley in the drill press?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I settled on a 5=step aluminum pulley for the motor.

So, did you end up turning it yourself (more satisfying) on a lathe or
did you buy one (less satisfying), Darren?

Actually I won one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/222250636823

IOW, you bought one from an eBay vendor for $20.80. OK.

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

It was actually the cheapest 5-step pulley on Ebay. :-)

Yeah, that wasn't too bad a price. But "won" sounded like you got a
freebie. How's it working?

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

I did get another tool with it from the same seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/222257774089

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Good sander. Dont be trying to use it as a polisher on your car or
boat though. Might work ok on granite with the right media

Pretty good machine for grinding fiberglass Quickly

Gunner

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Saturday, October 8, 2016 at 7:59:39 PM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 8 Oct 2016 13:25:44 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 9:57:41 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 16:32:13 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 26, 2016 at 8:54:53 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 16:35:54 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 20, 2016 at 1:22:24 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2016 14:50:10 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 12, 2016 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Ok, obviously the more steps the better.

But are there any foreseeable problems using a 1/2" chuck pulley and a 5/8" motor pulley in the drill press?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I settled on a 5=step aluminum pulley for the motor.

So, did you end up turning it yourself (more satisfying) on a lathe or
did you buy one (less satisfying), Darren?

Actually I won one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/222250636823

IOW, you bought one from an eBay vendor for $20.80. OK.

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

It was actually the cheapest 5-step pulley on Ebay. :-)

Yeah, that wasn't too bad a price. But "won" sounded like you got a
freebie. How's it working?

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

I did get another tool with it from the same seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/222257774089

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Good sander. Dont be trying to use it as a polisher on your car or
boat though. Might work ok on granite with the right media

Pretty good machine for grinding fiberglass Quickly

Gunner

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

I was hoping to use it to sand the paint off of some wood arcade cabinets I have. (Though it may be too much to strip the powder-coat from metal parts like the coin doors).

I received it along with the pulley from the same Ebay seller.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Sun, 9 Oct 2016 15:04:30 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Saturday, October 8, 2016 at 7:59:39 PM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 8 Oct 2016 13:25:44 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 9:57:41 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 16:32:13 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 26, 2016 at 8:54:53 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 16:35:54 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 20, 2016 at 1:22:24 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2016 14:50:10 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 12, 2016 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Ok, obviously the more steps the better.

But are there any foreseeable problems using a 1/2" chuck pulley and a 5/8" motor pulley in the drill press?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I settled on a 5=step aluminum pulley for the motor.

So, did you end up turning it yourself (more satisfying) on a lathe or
did you buy one (less satisfying), Darren?

Actually I won one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/222250636823

IOW, you bought one from an eBay vendor for $20.80. OK.

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

It was actually the cheapest 5-step pulley on Ebay. :-)

Yeah, that wasn't too bad a price. But "won" sounded like you got a
freebie. How's it working?

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

I did get another tool with it from the same seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/222257774089

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Good sander. Dont be trying to use it as a polisher on your car or
boat though. Might work ok on granite with the right media

Pretty good machine for grinding fiberglass Quickly

Gunner

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

I was hoping to use it to sand the paint off of some wood arcade cabinets I have. (Though it may be too much to strip the powder-coat from metal parts like the coin doors).

I received it along with the pulley from the same Ebay seller.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I would strongly suggest using a chemical paint stripper rather than a
high speed abrasive machine spinning 4000 rpm. Or you will have
"angel wings" all over the wood work. Just a suggestion.

Powder coat removal?

http://www.columbiacoatings.com/stor...per-5-Gal.aspx

Best **** in the world for removing powder coating. Works pretty well
on many paints as well




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On Sunday, October 9, 2016 at 6:50:41 PM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 9 Oct 2016 15:04:30 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Saturday, October 8, 2016 at 7:59:39 PM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 8 Oct 2016 13:25:44 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 9:57:41 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 16:32:13 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 26, 2016 at 8:54:53 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 16:35:54 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 20, 2016 at 1:22:24 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2016 14:50:10 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 12, 2016 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Ok, obviously the more steps the better.

But are there any foreseeable problems using a 1/2" chuck pulley and a 5/8" motor pulley in the drill press?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I settled on a 5=step aluminum pulley for the motor.

So, did you end up turning it yourself (more satisfying) on a lathe or
did you buy one (less satisfying), Darren?

Actually I won one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/222250636823

IOW, you bought one from an eBay vendor for $20.80. OK.

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

It was actually the cheapest 5-step pulley on Ebay. :-)

Yeah, that wasn't too bad a price. But "won" sounded like you got a
freebie. How's it working?

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

I did get another tool with it from the same seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/222257774089

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Good sander. Dont be trying to use it as a polisher on your car or
boat though. Might work ok on granite with the right media

Pretty good machine for grinding fiberglass Quickly

Gunner

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I was hoping to use it to sand the paint off of some wood arcade cabinets I have. (Though it may be too much to strip the powder-coat from metal parts like the coin doors).

I received it along with the pulley from the same Ebay seller.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I would strongly suggest using a chemical paint stripper rather than a
high speed abrasive machine spinning 4000 rpm. Or you will have
"angel wings" all over the wood work. Just a suggestion.

Powder coat removal?

http://www.columbiacoatings.com/stor...per-5-Gal.aspx

Best **** in the world for removing powder coating. Works pretty well
on many paints as well

Thanks a lot. (Is that the same as Rus-Oleum Aircraft remover?). If I'm lucky the Automotive place may sand blast first without charging a mint.

I'm actually searching for a way to cover/fill-in the multitude of small to tiny dings before I get the coin doors powder-coated again.

I'm assuming one of the Bondo products is best for this.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On Mon, 10 Oct 2016 14:51:34 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Sunday, October 9, 2016 at 6:50:41 PM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 9 Oct 2016 15:04:30 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Saturday, October 8, 2016 at 7:59:39 PM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 8 Oct 2016 13:25:44 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Wednesday, September 28, 2016 at 9:57:41 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2016 16:32:13 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 26, 2016 at 8:54:53 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 16:35:54 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 20, 2016 at 1:22:24 PM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2016 14:50:10 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Monday, September 12, 2016 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Ok, obviously the more steps the better.

But are there any foreseeable problems using a 1/2" chuck pulley and a 5/8" motor pulley in the drill press?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I settled on a 5=step aluminum pulley for the motor.

So, did you end up turning it yourself (more satisfying) on a lathe or
did you buy one (less satisfying), Darren?

Actually I won one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/222250636823

IOW, you bought one from an eBay vendor for $20.80. OK.

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

It was actually the cheapest 5-step pulley on Ebay. :-)

Yeah, that wasn't too bad a price. But "won" sounded like you got a
freebie. How's it working?

--
The goal to strive for is a poor government but a rich people.

--Andrew Johnson

I did get another tool with it from the same seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/222257774089

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Good sander. Dont be trying to use it as a polisher on your car or
boat though. Might work ok on granite with the right media

Pretty good machine for grinding fiberglass Quickly

Gunner

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

I was hoping to use it to sand the paint off of some wood arcade cabinets I have. (Though it may be too much to strip the powder-coat from metal parts like the coin doors).

I received it along with the pulley from the same Ebay seller.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I would strongly suggest using a chemical paint stripper rather than a
high speed abrasive machine spinning 4000 rpm. Or you will have
"angel wings" all over the wood work. Just a suggestion.

Powder coat removal?

http://www.columbiacoatings.com/stor...per-5-Gal.aspx

Best **** in the world for removing powder coating. Works pretty well
on many paints as well

Thanks a lot. (Is that the same as Rus-Oleum Aircraft remover?). If I'm lucky the Automotive place may sand blast first without charging a mint.

B17 is ...hummm...think of it as Magnumized Rust Oleum. Works
significantly better. If you only have a limited amount of powder
coat to remove..try the Aircraft Remover..but if you need to do large
amounts...the B17 is "it". I dont know where to get it commercially
in quarts however. I get mine from a powdercoating shop in quart cans.
They use it for fixing mistakes. Shrug

I'm actually searching for a way to cover/fill-in the multitude of small to tiny dings before I get the coin doors powder-coated again.

Powder coating will fill a significant amount of those small dings all
by itself. Its not..not like anodizing.

I'm assuming one of the Bondo products is best for this.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

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On Mon, 10 Oct 2016 15:05:21 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

Powder coat removal?

http://www.columbiacoatings.com/stor...per-5-Gal.aspx

Best **** in the world for removing powder coating. Works pretty well
on many paints as well

Thanks a lot. (Is that the same as Rus-Oleum Aircraft remover?). If I'm lucky the Automotive place may sand blast first without charging a mint.

B17 is ...hummm...think of it as Magnumized Rust Oleum. Works
significantly better. If you only have a limited amount of powder
coat to remove..try the Aircraft Remover..but if you need to do large
amounts...the B17 is "it". I dont know where to get it commercially
in quarts however. I get mine from a powdercoating shop in quart cans.
They use it for fixing mistakes. Shrug

Methylene chloride the -only- type of stripper to use. Hard on the
enviro and skin, but even tougher on multiple coats of paint. The B17
sounds like good stuff, with 45% content.


I'm actually searching for a way to cover/fill-in the multitude of small to tiny dings before I get the coin doors powder-coated again.

Powder coating will fill a significant amount of those small dings all
by itself. Its not..not like anodizing.

How well do those HF powder coating setups work, anyway? Anyone?

--
If government were a product,
selling it would be illegal.
--P.J. O'Rourke

On Mon, 10 Oct 2016 14:51:34 -0700, jamesjaddah1755 wrote:

snip

Thanks a lot. (Is that the same as Rus-Oleum Aircraft remover?). If I'm
lucky the Automotive place may sand blast first without charging a mint.

I'm actually searching for a way to cover/fill-in the multitude of small
to tiny dings before I get the coin doors powder-coated again.

I'm assuming one of the Bondo products is best for this.

Thanks.

Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.

I suspect powder coating won't be successful if you use a non-conductive
filler. Powder coatings are usually pretty thick anyway.

Pete Keillor

On 2016-10-11, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 10 Oct 2016 15:05:21 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

Powder coat removal?

[ ... ]

Methylene chloride the -only- type of stripper to use. Hard on the
enviro and skin, but even tougher on multiple coats of paint. The B17
sounds like good stuff, with 45% content.

Hmm ... reminds me of another chemical -- pyradine (sp?). A
friend (who had no sense of smell -- the stuff stinks) was pouring a
little into a glass ampoule in prepration to seal it and use it as a
small stink bomb (this was in college), and a drip got away from him in
a windowsill. It was about 10 inches above the surface, and by the time
my eyes caught up with it, it had stripped back the paint for about a
5/16" circle -- pretty much instantaneous. :-)

I don't know what kind of hazards are associated with it, but I
would certainly not use it indoors. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2016-10-11, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Mon, 10 Oct 2016 15:05:21 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

Powder coat removal?

[ ... ]

Methylene chloride the -only- type of stripper to use. Hard on the
enviro and skin, but even tougher on multiple coats of paint. The
B17
sounds like good stuff, with 45% content.

Hmm ... reminds me of another chemical -- pyradine (sp?). A
friend (who had no sense of smell -- the stuff stinks) was pouring a
little into a glass ampoule in prepration to seal it and use it as a
small stink bomb (this was in college), and a drip got away from him
in
a windowsill. It was about 10 inches above the surface, and by the
time
my eyes caught up with it, it had stripped back the paint for about
a
5/16" circle -- pretty much instantaneous. :-)

I don't know what kind of hazards are associated with it, but I
would certainly not use it indoors. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyridine

On 2016-10-12, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2016-10-11, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Mon, 10 Oct 2016 15:05:21 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

Powder coat removal?

[ ... ]

Hmm ... reminds me of another chemical -- pyradine (sp?). A
friend (who had no sense of smell -- the stuff stinks) was pouring a
little into a glass ampoule in prepration to seal it and use it as a
small stink bomb (this was in college), and a drip got away from him
in
a windowsill. It was about 10 inches above the surface, and by the
time
my eyes caught up with it, it had stripped back the paint for about
a
5/16" circle -- pretty much instantaneous. :-)

I don't know what kind of hazards are associated with it, but I
would certainly not use it indoors. :-)

[ ... ]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyridine

Thanks! As nasty as I susp[ected.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---