I have some 1/4" or 5/16" wire rope, about twenty feet or so. I want to
make a sling to carry on my ATV for using with a pulley for doubling and
pulling people out, or just in rescue situations. Both ends are now
unfinished. I know I could put thimbles in them and Crosby clamps, or poor
boy eye it around a thimble and secure with Crosby Clamps. Or just use
Crosby clamps with no thimble. I could even use crimp-ons. But I have seen
those pull out. I would like a true socketed eye. I have a torch to melt
the metal. Is there socketing alloy I can buy in the raw, and premade
sockets or a socket mold?

Steve

On 2011-02-12, Steve B wrote:
I have some 1/4" or 5/16" wire rope, about twenty feet or so. I want to
make a sling to carry on my ATV for using with a pulley for doubling and
pulling people out, or just in rescue situations. Both ends are now
unfinished. I know I could put thimbles in them and Crosby clamps, or poor
boy eye it around a thimble and secure with Crosby Clamps. Or just use
Crosby clamps with no thimble. I could even use crimp-ons. But I have seen
those pull out. I would like a true socketed eye. I have a torch to melt
the metal. Is there socketing alloy I can buy in the raw, and premade
sockets or a socket mold?

I had a cable pull out of two clamps. They say that three is enough.

You can try to do a FLemish Eye type of termination. (braid rope on
itself).

The metal to use for potting is zinc.



i

Steve B wrote:

I have some 1/4" or 5/16" wire rope, about twenty feet or so. I want to
make a sling to carry on my ATV for using with a pulley for doubling and
pulling people out, or just in rescue situations. Both ends are now
unfinished. I know I could put thimbles in them and Crosby clamps, or poor
boy eye it around a thimble and secure with Crosby Clamps. Or just use
Crosby clamps with no thimble. I could even use crimp-ons. But I have seen
those pull out. I would like a true socketed eye. I have a torch to melt
the metal. Is there socketing alloy I can buy in the raw, and premade
sockets or a socket mold?

Steve

For pulling people out or rescue situations, I'd use a commercially
produced, rated, tagged and traceable sling.

"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I have some 1/4" or 5/16" wire rope, about twenty feet or so. I want to
make a sling to carry on my ATV for using with a pulley for doubling and
pulling people out, or just in rescue situations. Both ends are now
unfinished. I know I could put thimbles in them and Crosby clamps, or poor
boy eye it around a thimble and secure with Crosby Clamps. Or just use
Crosby clamps with no thimble. I could even use crimp-ons. But I have
seen those pull out. I would like a true socketed eye. I have a torch to
melt the metal. Is there socketing alloy I can buy in the raw, and premade
sockets or a socket mold?


http://www.google.com/images?um=1&hl...&aqi=&aql=&oq=

Molly splice then sieze the ends with friction tape.

--

"Ignoramus20766" wrote in message
...
On 2011-02-12, Steve B wrote:
I have some 1/4" or 5/16" wire rope, about twenty feet or so. I want to
make a sling to carry on my ATV for using with a pulley for doubling and
pulling people out, or just in rescue situations. Both ends are now
unfinished. I know I could put thimbles in them and Crosby clamps, or
poor
boy eye it around a thimble and secure with Crosby Clamps. Or just use
Crosby clamps with no thimble. I could even use crimp-ons. But I have
seen
those pull out. I would like a true socketed eye. I have a torch to
melt
the metal. Is there socketing alloy I can buy in the raw, and premade
sockets or a socket mold?

I had a cable pull out of two clamps. They say that three is enough.

You can try to do a FLemish Eye type of termination. (braid rope on
itself).

The metal to use for potting is zinc.



i

I have seen and used a lot of Crosby clamps in my life. I can say that they
are only good if you are NOTreally going to pull on something HARD. In
diving school, they showed us the poorboy eye splice. Actually it is the
Flemish type, but you wind the two ends around each other once you wind it
as far as you can, and it runs into the running end. Then, you clamp it
onto the running end. They said if you ever worked for a company that used
those, look for another company. I did not heed that advice. I saw a lot
of them fail, and luckily no one was hurt. I knew never to trust one for
any heavy lifting, and get the hell out of the way if anyone was really
pulling on one. I never used one on a crane lift, we had factory socketed
slings, but they were use all over the rig for lots of things. They way
they finish that off with a crimp may do for my needs. I hate unlaying wire
rope and making a backsplice. I have no problem with regular rope, but my
hands and wrists are not up to wire rope any more, and I take coumadin now,
and bleed with a change in barometric pressure. I think I'll just try two
crimps on it with a thimble, and always use a doubler pulley. I may just
bite the bullet and go buy a 50 footer of 3/16" with sockets, or put an ad
on Craigslist.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Learn how to care for a friend.
Download the book.
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

On Fri, 11 Feb 2011 17:28:38 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have some 1/4" or 5/16" wire rope, about twenty feet or so. I want to
make a sling to carry on my ATV for using with a pulley for doubling and
pulling people out, or just in rescue situations. Both ends are now
unfinished. I know I could put thimbles in them and Crosby clamps, or poor
boy eye it around a thimble and secure with Crosby Clamps. Or just use
Crosby clamps with no thimble. I could even use crimp-ons. But I have seen
those pull out. I would like a true socketed eye. I have a torch to melt
the metal. Is there socketing alloy I can buy in the raw, and premade
sockets or a socket mold?

Steve



Hey Steve,

"Socketing" a wire rope is one of a few methods to leave the cable
"straight", and not forming a loop or eye. A common method of a few
years back was to feed the cable through/into an inverted female cone,
spread open and double the end back into a "rose" and pull it tight
into the cone, then sieze it in place with babbitt. It is more
commonly done now using a flattened female cone and a wedge, seized
with a single cable clamp like a Crosby.

A method more suitable to you might be, especially with smaller cable
like aircraft cable, say up to 3/8", is to swedge a chosen end on,
usually with a Nico-press. Nice part about that is that there are
three or four common style ends that you then have options with as to
how to make use of the cable for loading.

There are 4 or 5 pages of "ends" he

http://www.riggingshoppe.com/browse.cfm/standing-rigging-fittings/2,201.html

or any marine place. Pretty sure there is a West Marine store in LV.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

On Feb 11, 8:28*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
I have some 1/4" or 5/16" wire rope, about twenty feet or so. *I want to
make a sling to carry on my ATV for using with a pulley for doubling and
pulling people out, or just in rescue situations. *...
...Is there socketing alloy I can buy in the raw, and premade
sockets or a socket mold?

Steve

Look for "Spelter Sockets". Spelter is zinc, like pennies or lead-free
wheel weights.
http://www.muncy-upson.com/open_rope.htm
I haven't found a local source that could tell me how to install them
correctly, including West Marine.

I use webbing tow straps instead, as they cause less damage to hands,
vehicles and tree trunks. In mud season I add 100' of 1/2" rope and a
snatch block to the logging rig:
https://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/...88498145583490
I have a winch for it but every hard use has cost me a new battery.

jsw

PrecisionmachinisT wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Fri, 11 Feb 2011 20:03:34 -0800:


"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I have some 1/4" or 5/16" wire rope, about twenty feet or so. I want to
make a sling to carry on my ATV for using with a pulley for doubling and
pulling people out, or just in rescue situations. Both ends are now
unfinished. I know I could put thimbles in them and Crosby clamps, or poor
boy eye it around a thimble and secure with Crosby Clamps. Or just use
Crosby clamps with no thimble. I could even use crimp-ons. But I have
seen those pull out. I would like a true socketed eye. I have a torch to
melt the metal. Is there socketing alloy I can buy in the raw, and premade
sockets or a socket mold?


http://www.google.com/images?um=1&hl...&aqi=&aql=&oq=

Molly splice then sieze the ends with friction tape.

better results IMHO:
http://www.google.com/images?q=%22mo...&aqi=&aql=&oq=
--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

On Sat, 12 Feb 2011 04:37:53 -0800 (PST), Jim Wilkins
wrote:

On Feb 11, 8:28*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
I have some 1/4" or 5/16" wire rope, about twenty feet or so. *I want to
make a sling to carry on my ATV for using with a pulley for doubling and
pulling people out, or just in rescue situations. *...
...Is there socketing alloy I can buy in the raw, and premade
sockets or a socket mold?

Steve

Look for "Spelter Sockets". Spelter is zinc, like pennies or lead-free
wheel weights.
http://www.muncy-upson.com/open_rope.htm
I haven't found a local source that could tell me how to install them
correctly, including West Marine.

I use webbing tow straps instead, as they cause less damage to hands,
vehicles and tree trunks. In mud season I add 100' of 1/2" rope and a
snatch block to the logging rig:
https://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/...88498145583490
I have a winch for it but every hard use has cost me a new battery.

Have you considered running another battery in parallel with it for
winching purposes, Jim?

--
Remember, in an emergency, dial 1911.

"dan" wrote in message
...
PrecisionmachinisT wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Fri, 11 Feb 2011 20:03:34 -0800:


"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I have some 1/4" or 5/16" wire rope, about twenty feet or so. I want to
make a sling to carry on my ATV for using with a pulley for doubling and
pulling people out, or just in rescue situations. Both ends are now
unfinished. I know I could put thimbles in them and Crosby clamps, or
poor
boy eye it around a thimble and secure with Crosby Clamps. Or just use
Crosby clamps with no thimble. I could even use crimp-ons. But I have
seen those pull out. I would like a true socketed eye. I have a torch
to
melt the metal. Is there socketing alloy I can buy in the raw, and
premade
sockets or a socket mold?


http://www.google.com/images?um=1&hl...&aqi=&aql=&oq=

Molly splice then sieze the ends with friction tape.

better results IMHO:
http://www.google.com/images?q=%22mo...&aqi=&aql=&oq=


Thanks.

Another thing...use of a somewhat largish hoop diameter decreases the
likelyhood of its coming uraveled.

--

On Feb 12, 10:19*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Sat, 12 Feb 2011 04:37:53 -0800 (PST), Jim Wilkins
...
https://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/...88498145583490
I have a winch for it but every hard use has cost me a new battery.

Have you considered running another battery in parallel with it for
winching purposes, Jim?

The tractor already has the largest one it can hold and the trailer is
too full of loose metal tools plus maybe half a ton of wood to risk
it. The lever chain hoist has enough pull, it's just slow. One of the
batteries it damaged was a jump start pack, 18AH capacity when new, 4
afterwards.

jsw

"Brian Lawson" wrote

There are 4 or 5 pages of "ends" he

http://www.riggingshoppe.com/browse.cfm/standing-rigging-fittings/2,201.html

or any marine place. Pretty sure there is a West Marine store in LV.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

Nah. It's gone now. Or at least the one that I found in the phone book and
then went to that address.

Steve

"Jim Wilkins" wrote

I use webbing tow straps instead, as they cause less damage to hands,
vehicles and tree trunks. In mud season I add 100' of 1/2" rope and a
snatch block to the logging rig:
https://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/...88498145583490
I have a winch for it but every hard use has cost me a new battery.

jsw

I'm mainly looking for a 50-100' length that I can use with a doubler
pulley.

Steve

On Feb 11, 3:28*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
I have some 1/4" or 5/16" wire rope, about twenty feet or so. *I want to
make a sling to carry on my ATV for using with a pulley for doubling and
pulling people out, or just in rescue situations. *Both ends are now
unfinished. *I know I could put thimbles in them and Crosby clamps, or poor
boy eye it around a thimble and secure with Crosby Clamps. *Or just use
Crosby clamps with no thimble. *I could even use crimp-ons. *But I have seen
those pull out. *I would like a true socketed eye. *I have a torch to melt
the metal. *Is there socketing alloy I can buy in the raw, and premade
sockets or a socket mold?

Steve

I'd use Nicopress compression sleeves. Lockheed uses them to hoist
nuclear missiles. They use two on each eye. I wouldn't risk a single
one even though they're rated 100%. Some stuntman friends of mine had
a single one pull out while using a jerk vest.
Karl

wrote:
On Feb 11, 3:28 pm, "Steve wrote:
I have some 1/4" or 5/16" wire rope, about twenty feet or so. I want to
make a sling to carry on my ATV for using with a pulley for doubling and
pulling people out, or just in rescue situations. Both ends are now
unfinished. I know I could put thimbles in them and Crosby clamps, or poor
boy eye it around a thimble and secure with Crosby Clamps. Or just use
Crosby clamps with no thimble. I could even use crimp-ons. But I have seen
those pull out. I would like a true socketed eye. I have a torch to melt
the metal. Is there socketing alloy I can buy in the raw, and premade
sockets or a socket mold?

Steve

I'd use Nicopress compression sleeves. Lockheed uses them to hoist
nuclear missiles. They use two on each eye. I wouldn't risk a single
one even though they're rated 100%. Some stuntman friends of mine had
a single one pull out while using a jerk vest.
Karl


Nico press fittings are not as strong as a swaged fitting unless you
use the stainless steel fittings and use 2 of them. A rolling swage
stainless fitting will hold the full rated load of the cable if
correctly installed.

John