Mostly finished with a hand crank for my Grizzly G9972Z lathe. I used
the simple design from George Thomas and Model Engineer Workshop.

Points to consider:

A 10 degree taper is self releasing. No need for a pin in the expander plug.

No need for a dog point screw. I've had no problems getting the expander
plug to release.

Stainless steel cuts well with CCMT inserts, but leaves a long, stringy
swarf. Think of it as miniature general purpose barbed tape obstacle. I
have the cuts to prove it (yes, my blood is red). Do not try to pull it
off a leadscrew, use metal snips to cut it off.

SS has an issue with work hardening. Nothing like snapping small mills
and drills when you hit an area.

Bullet point DeWalt drill worked well in SS.

On 1/21/2011 5:15 AM, Louis Ohland wrote:

Points to consider:


Thanks for the tips. Painfully learnt!

Louis Ohland wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Thu, 20 Jan 2011 12:15:45 -0600:

Stainless steel cuts well with CCMT inserts, but leaves a long, stringy
swarf. Think of it as miniature general purpose barbed tape obstacle. I
have the cuts to prove it (yes, my blood is red). Do not try to pull it
off a leadscrew, use metal snips to cut it off.

I find that a great tool for pulling chips is a fish hook remover.
The kind that has a pistol grip.

google "Pistol grip hook remover" for pics.
--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

I wish this stuff would have been chips...

Finished up the 1/2 inch shaft, 1018 threads look like trash, but they
cleaned up with a die.

Figured out the gears for the lathe. 16 tpi is right on.


On 1/20/2011 18:19, dan wrote:
Louis Ohland wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Thu, 20 Jan 2011 12:15:45 -0600:

Stainless steel cuts well with CCMT inserts, but leaves a long, stringy
swarf. Think of it as miniature general purpose barbed tape obstacle. I
have the cuts to prove it (yes, my blood is red). Do not try to pull it
off a leadscrew, use metal snips to cut it off.

I find that a great tool for pulling chips is a fish hook remover.
The kind that has a pistol grip.

google "Pistol grip hook remover" for pics.

Does the lathe spindle crank you fabricated operate like the example shown
here?

http://www.tallgrasstools.com/SpindleCrank.html

Different alloys of stainless steel exhibit various levels of work
hardening. One descriptive term to look for is "free machining".

I've had very few problems making parts from 316 f-m SS, which included
turning drilling, tapping and milling.. all manually fed operations.
Using sharp HSS and a good quality cutting lubricant, even tapping #6-32
threads was fairly simple, without tap breakage.

--
WB
..........


"Louis Ohland" wrote in message
...
Mostly finished with a hand crank for my Grizzly G9972Z lathe. I used
the simple design from George Thomas and Model Engineer Workshop.

Points to consider:

A 10 degree taper is self releasing. No need for a pin in the expander
plug.

No need for a dog point screw. I've had no problems getting the expander
plug to release.

Stainless steel cuts well with CCMT inserts, but leaves a long, stringy
swarf. Think of it as miniature general purpose barbed tape obstacle. I
have the cuts to prove it (yes, my blood is red). Do not try to pull it
off a leadscrew, use metal snips to cut it off.

SS has an issue with work hardening. Nothing like snapping small mills and
drills when you hit an area.

Bullet point DeWalt drill worked well in SS.