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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Crosslide Crank and Handle on 12" Crafstmas Lathe
I own an older 12" x 30" craftsman lathe model 101.07403. The handle on
my crosslide crank came off the other day. I noticed that I can purchase just the handle, or the crank and handle assembly, and I'm not sure what exaclty I need. (Sears has them available for purchase on their website. $13.00 for the handle and $60.00 for the asssembly). The handle just slips on and off now. I am not sure how they are normally attached, and stay on the crank. The crank just has a blind hole in it. What should I look for to know if my handle is broken, or if the crank is bad. And how would I remove a handle that is currently installed on a crank. I have a couple of handles that do not spin anymore that could use a good cleaning. I could possible drill a small hole in the back of the crank and drill and tap the center of the handle and run a screw to hold it in place. But if I can just replace the handle then that's what I would do. Thanks. |
#2
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I can't help with what to do about the handle, except to mention that the
Craftsman lathe parts will probably be cheaper from Clausing. The Craftsman 12" lathes were made by Atlas, who merged with Clausing a few decades ago. Contact info for Clausing is he http://www.clausing-industrial.com/service-std.htm They will send you a current parts price list for free or nominal cost. Calling will probably be more reliable than emailing. Mike "Terry" wrote in message ps.com... I own an older 12" x 30" craftsman lathe model 101.07403. The handle on my crosslide crank came off the other day. I noticed that I can purchase just the handle, or the crank and handle assembly, and I'm not sure what exaclty I need. (Sears has them available for purchase on their website. $13.00 for the handle and $60.00 for the asssembly). The handle just slips on and off now. I am not sure how they are normally attached, and stay on the crank. The crank just has a blind hole in it. What should I look for to know if my handle is broken, or if the crank is bad. And how would I remove a handle that is currently installed on a crank. I have a couple of handles that do not spin anymore that could use a good cleaning. I could possible drill a small hole in the back of the crank and drill and tap the center of the handle and run a screw to hold it in place. But if I can just replace the handle then that's what I would do. Thanks. |
#3
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In article om,
Terry wrote: I own an older 12" x 30" craftsman lathe model 101.07403. The handle on my crosslide crank came off the other day. I noticed that I can purchase just the handle, or the crank and handle assembly, and I'm not sure what exaclty I need. (Sears has them available for purchase on their website. $13.00 for the handle and $60.00 for the asssembly). The handle just slips on and off now. I am not sure how they are normally attached, and stay on the crank. The crank just has a blind hole in it. I believe that they were just a press fit. What should I look for to know if my handle is broken, or if the crank is bad. This is the one with two handles of different length? I would suggest looking closely at the cross-piece, looking for any cracks surrounding the blind hole into which it was pressed. If you find those, you probably should get a new assembly. However, if there are no cracks, what I would try is using some bearing-mount Loctite to hold the *original* one in place. Clean it of any oil first (use acetone or alcohol), and then spray both parts with Loctite primer, put some Loctite into the blind hole, and a film of it around the part of the handle which fits into the blind hole, clamp it in for a few hours, and you should be fine. Only if the handle is damaged should you consider getting a new one. Based on your next question, I suspect that your handle was a bit loose, and you developed the habit of holding it while cranking, so it rotated in the socket (blind hole) and slowly wore the socket larger and the projection on the handle smaller. And how would I remove a handle that is currently installed on a crank. I have a couple of handles that do not spin anymore that could use a good cleaning. The handles on my Clausing do not spin at all. The outside is smooth, to allow it to slip in your hand as you crank. If yours are three-piece (handwheel, handle core, and handle sleeve) and normally should actually turn, but no longer do so, then it sounds as though something has hit the handle hard enough to bend the core and thus bind the hollow handle. I could possible drill a small hole in the back of the crank and drill and tap the center of the handle and run a screw to hold it in place. You *could* do that, but it would make a potential sharp point on the back of the handle which could cut you as you work. O.K. I just went and took a look at both my 12" Clausing and my 6" Atlas/Craftsman. Both are designed to have rigidly mounted handles, but there is a difference between them (other than the size). The Clausing has a handwheel made entirely of steel. The Atlas/Craftsman has a handwheel made of potmetal (cast zinc alloy), which has been nickel or chrome plated. As a result, over the years, the handle has worked loose, and can be removed. I need to follow my own advice, clean out the socket, and Loctite it back in place. (I don't really use that lathe often these days, since I have the larger Clausing, and the smaller Compact-5/CNC, and the bed of the Atlas/Craftsman is rather badly worn. But the pot-metal construction of the carriage handwheel does mean that the handle *will* work loose over the years. If the Loctite works, fine. Otherwise, I would suggest replacing the handwheel and handle assembly on your lathe, if it is like my Atlas/Craftsman. Check with a magnet. If the magnet is attracted to the handle, but not to the handwheel or crank body, then the handwheel or crank body is made of pot metal, and is much softer than the handle itself. But if I can just replace the handle then that's what I would do. As I said above -- try cleaning it and Loctiting it back in place That should do the job without needing to purchase anything from Sears or from Clausing Service Center. Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
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#5
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Thanks for the info. I did see an ebay auction for a handle, but it
was quite a bit larger than mine. Now that I know the handles are not suppose to spin, I can do a nice clean job of permenately re-attaching the handle. Thanks. |
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