As I said, I welded the collar to the toolholder, with 1/8" E7018
welding rod, using about 140 amps.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...1-Lathe-Chuck/

It runs quite true, which is no surprise, since I trued it right in
the mill's spindle.

The bore of the collar and the holes, were milled/drilled on the mill
itself.

i

On 2010-11-16, Ignoramus3001 wrote:
As I said, I welded the collar to the toolholder, with 1/8" E7018
welding rod, using about 140 amps.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...1-Lathe-Chuck/

Hmm ... is your monitor set wrong? Or did you just not adjust
the images after shooting them? I guess the latter, since exiftool
shows that it has the information from the camera (A Nikon D80) instead
of from "the GIMP" or some other image processing tool.

Anyway -- I had to save the images, then crank up the gamma on
each (using xv) to be able to see any details. They were *way* too dark
in the browser with the monitor adjusted to properly display a full
grayscale.

It runs quite true, which is no surprise, since I trued it right in
the mill's spindle.

The bore of the collar and the holes, were milled/drilled on the mill
itself.

O.K. A good job.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 11/15/2010 10:04 PM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-11-16, wrote:
As I said, I welded the collar to the toolholder, with 1/8" E7018
welding rod, using about 140 amps.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...1-Lathe-Chuck/

Hmm ... is your monitor set wrong? Or did you just not adjust
the images after shooting them? I guess the latter, since exiftool
shows that it has the information from the camera (A Nikon D80) instead
of from "the GIMP" or some other image processing tool.

Anyway -- I had to save the images, then crank up the gamma on
each (using xv) to be able to see any details. They were *way* too dark
in the browser with the monitor adjusted to properly display a full
grayscale.

It runs quite true, which is no surprise, since I trued it right in
the mill's spindle.

The bore of the collar and the holes, were milled/drilled on the mill
itself.

O.K. A good job.

Enjoy,
DoN.



the pictures look fine when viewed on a Windows macine

Bill Noble wrote:
On 11/15/2010 10:04 PM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-11-16, wrote:
As I said, I welded the collar to the toolholder, with 1/8" E7018
welding rod, using about 140 amps.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...1-Lathe-Chuck/


Hmm ... is your monitor set wrong? Or did you just not adjust
the images after shooting them? I guess the latter, since exiftool
shows that it has the information from the camera (A Nikon D80) instead
of from "the GIMP" or some other image processing tool.

Anyway -- I had to save the images, then crank up the gamma on
each (using xv) to be able to see any details. They were *way* too dark
in the browser with the monitor adjusted to properly display a full
grayscale.

It runs quite true, which is no surprise, since I trued it right in
the mill's spindle.

The bore of the collar and the holes, were milled/drilled on the mill
itself.

O.K. A good job.

Enjoy,
DoN.



the pictures look fine when viewed on a Windows macine

And Ubuntu 10.04

--Winston

Bill Noble wrote:

On 11/15/2010 10:04 PM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-11-16, wrote:
As I said, I welded the collar to the toolholder, with 1/8" E7018
welding rod, using about 140 amps.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...1-Lathe-Chuck/

Hmm ... is your monitor set wrong? Or did you just not adjust
the images after shooting them? I guess the latter, since exiftool
shows that it has the information from the camera (A Nikon D80) instead
of from "the GIMP" or some other image processing tool.

Anyway -- I had to save the images, then crank up the gamma on
each (using xv) to be able to see any details. They were *way* too dark
in the browser with the monitor adjusted to properly display a full
grayscale.

It runs quite true, which is no surprise, since I trued it right in
the mill's spindle.

The bore of the collar and the holes, were milled/drilled on the mill
itself.

O.K. A good job.

Enjoy,
DoN.


the pictures look fine when viewed on a Windows macine


Not on a calibrated monitor with Win XP, and Firefox 3.6.8.


--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

On Nov 15, 11:27*pm, Ignoramus3001
wrote:
As I said, I welded the collar to the toolholder, with 1/8" E7018
welding rod, using about 140 amps.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...teract-2-CNC-M...

It runs quite true, which is no surprise, since I trued it right in
the mill's spindle.

The bore of the collar and the holes, were milled/drilled on the mill
itself.

i

Nice job. How about spending a few minutes with a grinder and tidying
up the weld? That would make it a great job.

On 2010-11-16, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-11-16, Ignoramus3001 wrote:
As I said, I welded the collar to the toolholder, with 1/8" E7018
welding rod, using about 140 amps.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...1-Lathe-Chuck/

Hmm ... is your monitor set wrong? Or did you just not adjust
the images after shooting them? I guess the latter, since exiftool
shows that it has the information from the camera (A Nikon D80) instead
of from "the GIMP" or some other image processing tool.

What happened is my brother in law ****ed up the settings on the flash
unit.

Anyway -- I had to save the images, then crank up the gamma on
each (using xv) to be able to see any details. They were *way* too dark
in the browser with the monitor adjusted to properly display a full
grayscale.

I did not know that you can do that with xv. I love xv with a passion,
so, can you tell me how to do that.

It runs quite true, which is no surprise, since I trued it right in
the mill's spindle.

The bore of the collar and the holes, were milled/drilled on the mill
itself.

O.K. A good job.


I am going to mess with this for a while, as there is much to learn
(essentially how to use a CNC lathe).

i

On 2010-11-16, Winston wrote:
Bill Noble wrote:
On 11/15/2010 10:04 PM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-11-16, wrote:
As I said, I welded the collar to the toolholder, with 1/8" E7018
welding rod, using about 140 amps.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...1-Lathe-Chuck/


Hmm ... is your monitor set wrong? Or did you just not adjust
the images after shooting them? I guess the latter, since exiftool
shows that it has the information from the camera (A Nikon D80) instead
of from "the GIMP" or some other image processing tool.

Anyway -- I had to save the images, then crank up the gamma on
each (using xv) to be able to see any details. They were *way* too dark
in the browser with the monitor adjusted to properly display a full
grayscale.

It runs quite true, which is no surprise, since I trued it right in
the mill's spindle.

The bore of the collar and the holes, were milled/drilled on the mill
itself.

O.K. A good job.

Enjoy,
DoN.



the pictures look fine when viewed on a Windows macine

And Ubuntu 10.04


They are too dark. My BIL screwed up my flash settings.

i

Ignoramus29157 wrote:
On 2010-11-16, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-11-16, Ignoramus3001 wrote:
As I said, I welded the collar to the toolholder, with 1/8" E7018
welding rod, using about 140 amps.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...1-Lathe-Chuck/
Hmm ... is your monitor set wrong? Or did you just not adjust
the images after shooting them? I guess the latter, since exiftool
shows that it has the information from the camera (A Nikon D80) instead
of from "the GIMP" or some other image processing tool.

What happened is my brother in law ****ed up the settings on the flash
unit.

Anyway -- I had to save the images, then crank up the gamma on
each (using xv) to be able to see any details. They were *way* too dark
in the browser with the monitor adjusted to properly display a full
grayscale.

I did not know that you can do that with xv. I love xv with a passion,
so, can you tell me how to do that.


In the xv control panel,
Windows - color editor.
In the Intensity window, click GAM (the bottom button).

It runs quite true, which is no surprise, since I trued it right in
the mill's spindle.

The bore of the collar and the holes, were milled/drilled on the mill
itself.
O.K. A good job.


I am going to mess with this for a while, as there is much to learn
(essentially how to use a CNC lathe).

i


--
Gary A. Gorgen | "From ideas to PRODUCTS"
| Tunxis Design Inc.
| Cupertino, Ca. 95014

On 2010-11-16, Gary A. Gorgen wrote:
Ignoramus29157 wrote:
On 2010-11-16, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-11-16, Ignoramus3001 wrote:
As I said, I welded the collar to the toolholder, with 1/8" E7018
welding rod, using about 140 amps.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...1-Lathe-Chuck/
Hmm ... is your monitor set wrong? Or did you just not adjust
the images after shooting them? I guess the latter, since exiftool
shows that it has the information from the camera (A Nikon D80) instead
of from "the GIMP" or some other image processing tool.

What happened is my brother in law ****ed up the settings on the flash
unit.

Anyway -- I had to save the images, then crank up the gamma on
each (using xv) to be able to see any details. They were *way* too dark
in the browser with the monitor adjusted to properly display a full
grayscale.

I did not know that you can do that with xv. I love xv with a passion,
so, can you tell me how to do that.


In the xv control panel,
Windows - color editor.
In the Intensity window, click GAM (the bottom button).


Gary, this is AWESOME! I love xv!

I also discovered that I can easily correct gamma with ImageMagick's
"convert" command, so I can do it for all files at once.

for i in *.jpg; do convert $i -gamma 1.5 $i; done

Check this again

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...1-Lathe-Chuck/

Looks much better.

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i

Why do you want a chuck om your BP spindle?

Curious,
Bob

On 2010-11-16, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Why do you want a chuck om your BP spindle?

To use the mill as a CNC lathe.

i

On 2010-11-16, Bill Noble wrote:
On 11/15/2010 10:04 PM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-11-16, wrote:
As I said, I welded the collar to the toolholder, with 1/8" E7018
welding rod, using about 140 amps.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...1-Lathe-Chuck/

Hmm ... is your monitor set wrong? Or did you just not adjust
the images after shooting them? I guess the latter, since exiftool
shows that it has the information from the camera (A Nikon D80) instead
of from "the GIMP" or some other image processing tool.

Anyway -- I had to save the images, then crank up the gamma on
each (using xv) to be able to see any details. They were *way* too dark
in the browser with the monitor adjusted to properly display a full
grayscale.

[ ... ]

the pictures look fine when viewed on a Windows macine

Ah -- but how is the monitor adjusted?

I could make these look better by cranking up the brightness --
but I spent quite a while tuning contrast and brightness to get a proper
display of a grayscale, so images which I have processed will be
viewable on all systems.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2010-11-16, Ignoramus29157 wrote:
On 2010-11-16, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-11-16, Ignoramus3001 wrote:
As I said, I welded the collar to the toolholder, with 1/8" E7018
welding rod, using about 140 amps.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...1-Lathe-Chuck/

Hmm ... is your monitor set wrong? Or did you just not adjust
the images after shooting them? I guess the latter, since exiftool
shows that it has the information from the camera (A Nikon D80) instead
of from "the GIMP" or some other image processing tool.

What happened is my brother in law ****ed up the settings on the flash
unit.

O.K. That can do it.

Anyway -- I had to save the images, then crank up the gamma on
each (using xv) to be able to see any details. They were *way* too dark
in the browser with the monitor adjusted to properly display a full
grayscale.

I did not know that you can do that with xv. I love xv with a passion,
so, can you tell me how to do that.

Su

1) Bring up image (of course).

2) Type 'e' while in the image.

3) Go down to the "Intensity" graph at the bottom center of the
"XV color editor" window.

4) Place the mouse cursor in that graph, and type 'g' for "gamma".

5) Type in the value of gamma you wish. (1.5 looks pretty good
in the "31-Lathe-Chuck-0010.jpg" image. It is a bit too bright
in some of the first ones.

Out of curiosity, what is the bright red object behind the
chuck?

It runs quite true, which is no surprise, since I trued it right in
the mill's spindle.

The bore of the collar and the holes, were milled/drilled on the mill
itself.

O.K. A good job.


I am going to mess with this for a while, as there is much to learn
(essentially how to use a CNC lathe).

O.K. I wonder what things might be present on a lathe CNC which
are not active on yours?

Note that the radius turning instructions (G03 and G03) look
backwards on a normal lathe. The CW and CCW look right if you are lying
on the bed looking up at the tool, but not if you are looking down on it
as is normal. (What I tend to do is mentally rotate the plane of the
tool so it is above the workpiece working down and that makes sense for
me.)

There are probably other gotchas.

You will want something equivalent to the multi-pass turning
which starts at a specific point feed speed moves inwards a specified
increment, moves horizontal at feed speed, retracts to original diameter
at feed speed, returns to the original position at rapid speed, feeds in
again an increment deeper, and repeats until it reaches the final depth
(which may be a smaller feed than the rest).

There is also a "facing" G-code which does the same across the
end of the workpiece instead of along the length.

If you are interested, I can go downstairs and refresh my memory
on which G-codes are used for these.

Oh yes -- also you need the option to specify diameter instead
of radius in these commands -- with another G-code (or is it an M-code)
which will switch back to radius instead of diameter.

I've got scans of the Emco-Maier Compact-5/CNC programming
manual if you want to look at it. Total of 18.5 MB of download.
Scanned but not OCR converted so they will be slow to display.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Tue, 16 Nov 2010 23:02:41 +0000, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-11-16, Ignoramus29157 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...1-Lathe-Chuck/
....
Out of curiosity, what is the bright red object behind the
chuck?
....

My guess = fish tape for pulling wires, sort of like in picture at
http://electrical.about.com/od/electricaltools/a/fishtape.htm

--
jiw

On 2010-11-17, James Waldby wrote:
On Tue, 16 Nov 2010 23:02:41 +0000, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-11-16, Ignoramus29157 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...1-Lathe-Chuck/
...
Out of curiosity, what is the bright red object behind the
chuck?
...

My guess = fish tape for pulling wires, sort of like in picture at
http://electrical.about.com/od/electricaltools/a/fishtape.htm


It is not a fish tape, it is a cable clamp. A clamp to hold wires
together.

i

By the way, what I really enjoyed in this project, is how much I could
do with G code subroutines that I wrote earlier.

First I used one subroutine to mill a round hole in the middle of the
disk (going down in a spiral, of course).

Then I decided that the hole was too tight and it had to be enlarged
by 0.002". No problem, same sub called with a different radius.

Then I used another subroutine to do a three holed "bolt hole pattern"
three times. First with a spotting drill to start holes, then with a
small drill to make holes for bolts, then with a larger drill to
counterbore holes for the bolt heads.

Everything was completely easy. Just typing stuff into a universal
subroutine wizard window, and some tool changes, was all it took. The
result was perfect, all holes were exactly where they should be etc.

When drilling, I had to stand by with a screwdriver to remove
swarf. That was about the only real mechanical interaction.

i

"Ignoramus3001" wrote in message
...
As I said, I welded the collar to the toolholder, with 1/8" E7018
welding rod, using about 140 amps.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...1-Lathe-Chuck/

It runs quite true, which is no surprise, since I trued it right in
the mill's spindle.

The bore of the collar and the holes, were milled/drilled on the mill
itself.

I

Very nice, but I have a couple thoughts...
For just making stuff why not use a collet or tool holder to hold the work
piece?

Why didn't you look at a 4th axis solution?
You can spin it as a spindle and put a tool post on the end of the y axis,
and you can also use it as an indexer for 4 axis milling.

The pics are too dark, as they usually are, and I did read the other posts.

I know that bare, machined metal parts aren't easy to photograph, but with
some good lighting and a digital camera (rechargeable batteries), taking 10
or 30 pics essentially doesn't cost any more than taking 3 fuctup dark ones.
Then it's just a matter of picking the good looking ones, not ****ing around
with software.

Use of some CFLs that are 6000+ degree lamps that are labeled sunlight or
daylight, will provide enough light that a flash can be used just to fill
in, for properly exposed images.

Regular incandescent lamps will generally produce poor color reproduction,
but the sunlight CFLs produce very natural colors, unlike most cool or soft
white CFLs.
They're also very good for room lighting, near a desk for example. I
generally use these sunlight CFLs oriented with the base down, pointed
upward for bounce lighting, which is very comfortable for reading (much
preferred to direct lighting).

--
WB
..........


"Ignoramus3001" wrote in message
...
As I said, I welded the collar to the toolholder, with 1/8" E7018
welding rod, using about 140 amps.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Brid...1-Lathe-Chuck/

It runs quite true, which is no surprise, since I trued it right in
the mill's spindle.

The bore of the collar and the holes, were milled/drilled on the mill
itself.

i

Wild_Bill wrote:

The pics are too dark, as they usually are, and I did read the other posts.

I know that bare, machined metal parts aren't easy to photograph, but with
some good lighting and a digital camera (rechargeable batteries), taking 10
or 30 pics essentially doesn't cost any more than taking 3 fuctup dark ones.
Then it's just a matter of picking the good looking ones, not ****ing around
with software.

Use of some CFLs that are 6000+ degree lamps that are labeled sunlight or
daylight, will provide enough light that a flash can be used just to fill
in, for properly exposed images.

Regular incandescent lamps will generally produce poor color reproduction,
but the sunlight CFLs produce very natural colors, unlike most cool or soft
white CFLs.
They're also very good for room lighting, near a desk for example. I
generally use these sunlight CFLs oriented with the base down, pointed
upward for bounce lighting, which is very comfortable for reading (much
preferred to direct lighting).


Color corrected halogen lamps are preferred.


--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist! I m just a very ticked
off scientist!!!