Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Welding steel to cast iron head?

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 09:51:57 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:40:39 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:



Here are pictures of my problem child.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/RangerHead#


I'd vee the tab and TIG braze with silicon bronze or other non-fuming
bronze rod. It's easy to do, requires no pre/post heat, and will put
very little heat into the head.

--
Ned Simmons
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Default Welding steel to cast iron head?

On 09/15/2010 10:22 AM, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 09:51:57 -0700, Gunner
wrote:

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:40:39 -0700, Gunner
wrote:



Here are pictures of my problem child.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/RangerHead#


I'd vee the tab and TIG braze with silicon bronze or other non-fuming
bronze rod. It's easy to do, requires no pre/post heat, and will put
very little heat into the head.

Or drill a hole in the middle of the tab and plug braze it (can you do
that?).

There's certainly lots of surface area there if you could get something
that'd bond across the whole face where the tab and head mate.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html
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Default Welding steel to cast iron head?

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 13:22:23 -0400, Ned Simmons wrote:

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 09:51:57 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:40:39 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:



Here are pictures of my problem child.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/RangerHead#


I'd vee the tab and TIG braze with silicon bronze or other non-fuming
bronze rod. It's easy to do, requires no pre/post heat, and will put
very little heat into the head.



Very good suggestion.

I think...think Ive got some silicon bronze. I know Ive got phosphor
bronze ..quite a bit of it. Bad choice or ?

If its a bad choice..Ill pick up some silicon (assuming I dont have any)
when Im down in LA this week.

Gunner


I am the Sword of my Family
and the Shield of my Nation.
If sent, I will crush everything you have built,
burn everything you love,
and kill every one of you.
(Hebrew quote)
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Default Welding steel to cast iron head?

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:23:27 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On 09/15/2010 10:22 AM, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 09:51:57 -0700, Gunner
wrote:

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:40:39 -0700, Gunner
wrote:



Here are pictures of my problem child.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/RangerHead#


I'd vee the tab and TIG braze with silicon bronze or other non-fuming
bronze rod. It's easy to do, requires no pre/post heat, and will put
very little heat into the head.

Or drill a hole in the middle of the tab and plug braze it (can you do
that?).

There's certainly lots of surface area there if you could get something
that'd bond across the whole face where the tab and head mate.


Indeed. The hole in the center is an option, as is high temp silver
solder.

But putting a slight grove on the sides and running a tig bead down each
side does sound easy to do.

Silicon or phosphor bronze?

Gunner


I am the Sword of my Family
and the Shield of my Nation.
If sent, I will crush everything you have built,
burn everything you love,
and kill every one of you.
(Hebrew quote)
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Default Welding steel to cast iron head?

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 13:22:23 -0400, Ned Simmons
wrote:

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 09:51:57 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:40:39 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:



Here are pictures of my problem child.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/RangerHead#


I'd vee the tab and TIG braze with silicon bronze or other non-fuming
bronze rod. It's easy to do, requires no pre/post heat, and will put
very little heat into the head.


Never having brazed with TIG, I'd try that first on a scrap head to
see how it turns out for me.

Failing that, I'd use four small flathead screws and Loctite 271.


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Default Welding steel to cast iron head?

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:35:25 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:23:27 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On 09/15/2010 10:22 AM, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 09:51:57 -0700, Gunner
wrote:

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:40:39 -0700, Gunner
wrote:


Here are pictures of my problem child.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/RangerHead#


I'd vee the tab and TIG braze with silicon bronze or other non-fuming
bronze rod. It's easy to do, requires no pre/post heat, and will put
very little heat into the head.

Or drill a hole in the middle of the tab and plug braze it (can you do
that?).

There's certainly lots of surface area there if you could get something
that'd bond across the whole face where the tab and head mate.


Indeed. The hole in the center is an option, as is high temp silver
solder.

But putting a slight grove on the sides and running a tig bead down each
side does sound easy to do.

Silicon or phosphor bronze?

Gunner


I am the Sword of my Family
and the Shield of my Nation.
If sent, I will crush everything you have built,
burn everything you love,
and kill every one of you.
(Hebrew quote)


Wasn't there a thread on here a little while ago about brazing by
tinning each piece, then heating the assembly? Heck, silver solder is
brazing, I bet that'd work.

Pete Keillor
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Default Welding steel to cast iron head?

On 09/15/2010 02:13 PM, Pete Keillor wrote:
On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:35:25 -0700, Gunner
wrote:

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:23:27 -0700, Tim
wrote:

On 09/15/2010 10:22 AM, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 09:51:57 -0700, Gunner
wrote:

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:40:39 -0700, Gunner
wrote:


Here are pictures of my problem child.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/RangerHead#


I'd vee the tab and TIG braze with silicon bronze or other non-fuming
bronze rod. It's easy to do, requires no pre/post heat, and will put
very little heat into the head.

Or drill a hole in the middle of the tab and plug braze it (can you do
that?).

There's certainly lots of surface area there if you could get something
that'd bond across the whole face where the tab and head mate.


Indeed. The hole in the center is an option, as is high temp silver
solder.

But putting a slight grove on the sides and running a tig bead down each
side does sound easy to do.

Silicon or phosphor bronze?

Gunner


I am the Sword of my Family
and the Shield of my Nation.
If sent, I will crush everything you have built,
burn everything you love,
and kill every one of you.
(Hebrew quote)


Wasn't there a thread on here a little while ago about brazing by
tinning each piece, then heating the assembly? Heck, silver solder is
brazing, I bet that'd work.


I was going to suggest that (since I started the thread), but you'd have
to get a whole lot of the thing really hot; I'm not sure what it'd do to
the straightness of the head and the valve guides -- certainly if the
head has any bits of rubber in it the idea is a no-go.

I'm for the TIG brazing, particularly since it's Gunnar who has to come
up with the machine!

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html
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Default Welding steel to cast iron head?

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:36:12 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 13:22:23 -0400, Ned Simmons wrote:

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 09:51:57 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:40:39 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:



Here are pictures of my problem child.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/RangerHead#


I'd vee the tab and TIG braze with silicon bronze or other non-fuming
bronze rod. It's easy to do, requires no pre/post heat, and will put
very little heat into the head.



Very good suggestion.

I think...think Ive got some silicon bronze. I know Ive got phosphor
bronze ..quite a bit of it. Bad choice or ?

If its a bad choice..Ill pick up some silicon (assuming I dont have any)
when Im down in LA this week.


I don't think I've ever used phosphor bronze wire, but I have no
reason to think it wouldn't be a good choice. Try sticking some scraps
of steel and cast iron together and see how it works.

I mentioned sili bronze because it's pretty common and relatively
strong. It's not the easiest bronze to use -- it's viscous and acts
like there's a skin on the puddle. If I were doing it here I'd use A2
aluminum bronze because I have some, it's strong, and it's better
behaved than silicon bronze.

http://www.wisconsinwireworks.com/aluminum_bronze.htm

--
Ned Simmons
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Default Welding steel to cast iron head?

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:35:25 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:23:27 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On 09/15/2010 10:22 AM, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 09:51:57 -0700, Gunner
wrote:

On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:40:39 -0700, Gunner
wrote:


Here are pictures of my problem child.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/RangerHead#


I'd vee the tab and TIG braze with silicon bronze or other non-fuming
bronze rod. It's easy to do, requires no pre/post heat, and will put
very little heat into the head.

Or drill a hole in the middle of the tab and plug braze it (can you do
that?).

There's certainly lots of surface area there if you could get something
that'd bond across the whole face where the tab and head mate.


Indeed. The hole in the center is an option, as is high temp silver
solder.


The hole in the center would only attach it to that thin area in the
stud path; much less to hold on to.


But putting a slight grove on the sides and running a tig bead down each
side does sound easy to do.


Couldn't hurt.


Silicon or phosphor bronze?


Yes. (Means: I have no idea.)
http://www.weldguru.com/braze-cast-iron.html Maybe he knows.
Hmm, maybe not. (Their web guy didn't. He linked to the aluminum
repair video, and their brazing rod is ONLY $75 a pound.)

--
Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins
when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in
order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary.
-- Peter Minard
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