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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
I'm about to use a Leeson model 110163 motor for a job that will reverse the
motor approximately every 4 seconds with a proper inverter, breaking resistor, etc. I've tried contacting multiple AC drive experts at Leeson over the past week or so with not a single live person answering and zero returned phone calls. I've got to use the Leeson because of the motor's dimensions... Although WEG and a Chinese import I found both would fit and are inverter rated... I'm wondering if anyone knows where one could find specs or information on just what an inverter rated motor can take as far as constant reversing abuse, etc. ....and before anyone suggests it, it must be a 56C face, TEFC motor. An external fan may help a bit as would using a washdown motor and spraying it with coolant... But I'm not able to go either route for this particular customer. Thanks for any insight or help you can offer. Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. (800) 871-5022 01.908.542.0244 Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/ Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook V8013-R |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
On 08/23/2010 01:08 PM, Joe AutoDrill wrote:
I'm about to use a Leeson model 110163 motor for a job that will reverse the motor approximately every 4 seconds with a proper inverter, breaking resistor, etc. I've tried contacting multiple AC drive experts at Leeson over the past week or so with not a single live person answering and zero returned phone calls. I've got to use the Leeson because of the motor's dimensions... Although WEG and a Chinese import I found both would fit and are inverter rated... I'm wondering if anyone knows where one could find specs or information on just what an inverter rated motor can take as far as constant reversing abuse, etc. ...and before anyone suggests it, it must be a 56C face, TEFC motor. An external fan may help a bit as would using a washdown motor and spraying it with coolant... But I'm not able to go either route for this particular customer. Thanks for any insight or help you can offer. That's way bigger than the motors that I'm used to, BUT: For the itty bitty (by your standard) motors that I've designed for, the motor loss is largely due to copper losses from the motor current, with some iron loss due to speed. In an induction motor that translates to copper loss in the armature that comes straight from the amount of current from the VFD, iron loss in the armature that comes from the frequency of the voltage from the VFD (let's hope that's always the motor's rated frequency or less), copper loss in the armature that's some magical complicated relationship with the amount of slip, and is the reason that I wouldn't take your money if you wanted to pay me to answer this question (because I don't know for sure), and iron loss in the rotor that's a direct function of the absolute slip (i.e. not percent, but the slip in Hz). My guess is that if you can find a VFD has some sort of a current-controlled mode, where you can essentially tell it "push this here direction at this here current and the best torque until you're up to this here speed", then you could reverse the motor direction all day. That's because (a) your armature copper losses will be controlled by the armature current, (b) your armature iron losses will be less than what they'd be at full speed, and (c) the slip (and hence the rotor iron and copper losses) will be controlled by the VFD to give you the best torque for the current. What I _don't_ know is if you can get such a VFD, or what it's called. I could design one for you, but it'd cost way more than what an off-the shelf VFD would cost (The second one would be loads cheaper, and prettier too, but still several times more expensive than a nicely productized one built by surly Malaysians in a sweat shop. And the warranty would be absolute crap). -- Tim Wescott Wescott Design Services http://www.wescottdesign.com Do you need to implement control loops in software? "Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you. See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 16:08:44 -0400, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote: I'm about to use a Leeson model 110163 motor for a job that will reverse the motor approximately every 4 seconds with a proper inverter, breaking resistor, etc. I've tried contacting multiple AC drive experts at Leeson over the past week or so with not a single live person answering and zero returned phone calls. I've got to use the Leeson because of the motor's dimensions... Although WEG and a Chinese import I found both would fit and are inverter rated... I'm wondering if anyone knows where one could find specs or information on just what an inverter rated motor can take as far as constant reversing abuse, etc. ...and before anyone suggests it, it must be a 56C face, TEFC motor. An external fan may help a bit as would using a washdown motor and spraying it with coolant... But I'm not able to go either route for this particular customer. Thanks for any insight or help you can offer. Joe...WEG motors are what OmniTurn uses..and Ive seen them do exactly what you are doing for years as production lathes. Just be sure to use as large a braking resistor as you can...200 watts We use the old faithful standby PC3/Yaskawa 606PC3/yada yada yada VFD..its been labled by everyone under the sun.. and is absolutely bullet proof. The only time Ive every replaced one in the 12 or so years OmniTurn has been using them..was the result of either lightning or flood, or forklift damage. And the lightning only took out the 0-10 volt analog voltage section. Im currently running my Gorton Mastermill on that same VFD using a pot to change speed..and have been..on single phase..for almost 10 yrs. Good ****, Maynard. Gunner I am the Sword of my Family and the Shield of my Nation. If sent, I will crush everything you have built, burn everything you love, and kill every one of you. (Hebrew quote) |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
On 08/23/2010 03:07 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 16:08:44 -0400, "Joe wrote: I'm about to use a Leeson model 110163 motor for a job that will reverse the motor approximately every 4 seconds with a proper inverter, breaking resistor, etc. I've tried contacting multiple AC drive experts at Leeson over the past week or so with not a single live person answering and zero returned phone calls. I've got to use the Leeson because of the motor's dimensions... Although WEG and a Chinese import I found both would fit and are inverter rated... I'm wondering if anyone knows where one could find specs or information on just what an inverter rated motor can take as far as constant reversing abuse, etc. ...and before anyone suggests it, it must be a 56C face, TEFC motor. An external fan may help a bit as would using a washdown motor and spraying it with coolant... But I'm not able to go either route for this particular customer. Thanks for any insight or help you can offer. Joe...WEG motors are what OmniTurn uses..and Ive seen them do exactly what you are doing for years as production lathes. Just be sure to use as large a braking resistor as you can...200 watts We use the old faithful standby PC3/Yaskawa 606PC3/yada yada yada VFD..its been labled by everyone under the sun.. and is absolutely bullet proof. The only time Ive every replaced one in the 12 or so years OmniTurn has been using them..was the result of either lightning or flood, or forklift damage. And the lightning only took out the 0-10 volt analog voltage section. Im currently running my Gorton Mastermill on that same VFD using a pot to change speed..and have been..on single phase..for almost 10 yrs. Hey! That's exactly what I was babbling about in theory, only you know the real part numbers! Braking resistors, huh? No one wants to shove the braking power backwards up the electrical line (which is eminently possible in theory, with lots of practical difficulties). They could call them "green", then. -- Tim Wescott Wescott Design Services http://www.wescottdesign.com Do you need to implement control loops in software? "Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you. See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 15:12:47 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote: On 08/23/2010 03:07 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 16:08:44 -0400, "Joe wrote: I'm about to use a Leeson model 110163 motor for a job that will reverse the motor approximately every 4 seconds with a proper inverter, breaking resistor, etc. I've tried contacting multiple AC drive experts at Leeson over the past week or so with not a single live person answering and zero returned phone calls. I've got to use the Leeson because of the motor's dimensions... Although WEG and a Chinese import I found both would fit and are inverter rated... I'm wondering if anyone knows where one could find specs or information on just what an inverter rated motor can take as far as constant reversing abuse, etc. ...and before anyone suggests it, it must be a 56C face, TEFC motor. An external fan may help a bit as would using a washdown motor and spraying it with coolant... But I'm not able to go either route for this particular customer. Thanks for any insight or help you can offer. Joe...WEG motors are what OmniTurn uses..and Ive seen them do exactly what you are doing for years as production lathes. Just be sure to use as large a braking resistor as you can...200 watts We use the old faithful standby PC3/Yaskawa 606PC3/yada yada yada VFD..its been labled by everyone under the sun.. and is absolutely bullet proof. The only time Ive every replaced one in the 12 or so years OmniTurn has been using them..was the result of either lightning or flood, or forklift damage. And the lightning only took out the 0-10 volt analog voltage section. Im currently running my Gorton Mastermill on that same VFD using a pot to change speed..and have been..on single phase..for almost 10 yrs. Hey! That's exactly what I was babbling about in theory, only you know the real part numbers! Actually..in the Real World..Im fairly competent. Here on Usenet, I get to put on the silly hat, or speak from the dark reaches of my backbrain..G Braking resistors, huh? No one wants to shove the braking power backwards up the electrical line (which is eminently possible in theory, with lots of practical difficulties). They could call them "green", then. One really needs to use a braking resistor on most VFDs. Many of the older ones had a built in one..or simply coasted to a stop. Nearly all VFDs made in the last 10 yrs have that output. Tubular ceramic resistors can be had on Ebay for a few bucks and are far far cheaper than the flat packed heatsinked resistors used on commercial machines. The 200 watt tube resistor Ive got mine hooked to, cost me $4, shipping included G http://cgi.ebay.com/HEAP-ASSORTED-HI...-/300457464945 See the long *******s to the right of the pile? Those thingies. http://cgi.ebay.com/Resistor-power-r...-/150467109756 It really doesnt need to be 200 watts on a home machine. Even 100 watts will work fine. All you got to do is take your ohm meter..tweak it the slider to the proper ohms rating for your vfd..and hook up some wires. Most..not all...but most VFDs want 90-140 ohms in their resistors.. Check your manual as each brand wants a specific ohm rating. This is the typical packaging for most VFDs And its probably close enough to work. http://cgi.ebay.com/Iwaki-Regenerati...-/170531505301 The PC3 as I recall..uses 30 ohms. Id have to check the manual Or I can sell you one of these... http://www.omniturn.com/bin/RepairPa...components.htm They are only $125......G Gunner I am the Sword of my Family and the Shield of my Nation. If sent, I will crush everything you have built, burn everything you love, and kill every one of you. (Hebrew quote) |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
On 08/23/2010 03:48 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 15:12:47 -0700, Tim wrote: On 08/23/2010 03:07 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 16:08:44 -0400, "Joe wrote: I'm about to use a Leeson model 110163 motor for a job that will reverse the motor approximately every 4 seconds with a proper inverter, breaking resistor, etc. I've tried contacting multiple AC drive experts at Leeson over the past week or so with not a single live person answering and zero returned phone calls. I've got to use the Leeson because of the motor's dimensions... Although WEG and a Chinese import I found both would fit and are inverter rated... I'm wondering if anyone knows where one could find specs or information on just what an inverter rated motor can take as far as constant reversing abuse, etc. ...and before anyone suggests it, it must be a 56C face, TEFC motor. An external fan may help a bit as would using a washdown motor and spraying it with coolant... But I'm not able to go either route for this particular customer. Thanks for any insight or help you can offer. Joe...WEG motors are what OmniTurn uses..and Ive seen them do exactly what you are doing for years as production lathes. Just be sure to use as large a braking resistor as you can...200 watts We use the old faithful standby PC3/Yaskawa 606PC3/yada yada yada VFD..its been labled by everyone under the sun.. and is absolutely bullet proof. The only time Ive every replaced one in the 12 or so years OmniTurn has been using them..was the result of either lightning or flood, or forklift damage. And the lightning only took out the 0-10 volt analog voltage section. Im currently running my Gorton Mastermill on that same VFD using a pot to change speed..and have been..on single phase..for almost 10 yrs. Hey! That's exactly what I was babbling about in theory, only you know the real part numbers! Actually..in the Real World..Im fairly competent. Here on Usenet, I get to put on the silly hat, or speak from the dark reaches of my backbrain..G Braking resistors, huh? No one wants to shove the braking power backwards up the electrical line (which is eminently possible in theory, with lots of practical difficulties). They could call them "green", then. One really needs to use a braking resistor on most VFDs. Many of the older ones had a built in one..or simply coasted to a stop. Nearly all VFDs made in the last 10 yrs have that output. The need for a braking _something_ comes from simple physics: if you want to slow that there motor down you gotta remove the kinetic energy from the motor and whatever it's attached to, and that kinetic energy has to go somewhere. So you either shove it into a resistor, you induce some _really_ inefficient operation in the motor, or you shove it up the power company's ass-embly. Shoving it into a resistor is easy, 'cause the VFD will have a 'raw power' rail in it somewhere, which would go over voltage without putting the energy somewhere, and the easy place to put that energy is into a braking resistor. Making the motor burn it up is, in general, just plain stupid. You'd have to do some crazy thing (like putting a DC current into the motor) that'd put your power somewhere, and you'd have to do it in a way that wouldn't leave you with a mile-long line of ****ed-off customers, banging on your door with burnt-out motors. For some specific, oddball situations it'd make sense, but it's not something you'd ever want in a general-purpose product. Sending power up the electrical line _isn't_ easy, or obvious -- in fact, I earned some money in '09 consulting with a company building solar panel inverters on means and methods to do it right, and to make sure that what they were doing would work over the widest range of situations. And it turns out (basic physics again) that you can never fully reliably shove that power back onto the line without being able to count on the properties of the line for your own system's stability. Oh joy. Tubular ceramic resistors can be had on Ebay for a few bucks and are far far cheaper than the flat packed heatsinked resistors used on commercial machines. The 200 watt tube resistor Ive got mine hooked to, cost me $4, shipping includedG http://cgi.ebay.com/HEAP-ASSORTED-HI...-/300457464945 See the long *******s to the right of the pile? Those thingies. http://cgi.ebay.com/Resistor-power-r...-/150467109756 It really doesnt need to be 200 watts on a home machine. Even 100 watts will work fine. All you got to do is take your ohm meter..tweak it the slider to the proper ohms rating for your vfd..and hook up some wires. Most..not all...but most VFDs want 90-140 ohms in their resistors.. Check your manual as each brand wants a specific ohm rating. This is the typical packaging for most VFDs And its probably close enough to work. http://cgi.ebay.com/Iwaki-Regenerati...-/170531505301 The PC3 as I recall..uses 30 ohms. Id have to check the manual Or I can sell you one of these... http://www.omniturn.com/bin/RepairPa...components.htm They are only $125......G Or you could use a bucket of salt water and some carbon electrodes -- in theory :-). -- Tim Wescott Wescott Design Services http://www.wescottdesign.com Do you need to implement control loops in software? "Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you. See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
Gunner Asch wrote:
... http://cgi.ebay.com/Iwaki-Regenerati...-/170531505301 .... Oh, that's good one: "... Regenerative Braking Resistor ...". I guess "regenerative" is a new buzz word that sounds good (& green), that people will be using when neither they nor their readers know what it means. Sigh, Bob Hey - does that mean that I can say that the brakes on my car are regenerative? |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
Tim Wescott wrote:
On 08/23/2010 03:48 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 15:12:47 -0700, Tim wrote: On 08/23/2010 03:07 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 16:08:44 -0400, "Joe wrote: I'm about to use a Leeson model 110163 motor for a job that will reverse the motor approximately every 4 seconds with a proper inverter, breaking resistor, etc. I've tried contacting multiple AC drive experts at Leeson over the past week or so with not a single live person answering and zero returned phone calls. I've got to use the Leeson because of the motor's dimensions... Although WEG and a Chinese import I found both would fit and are inverter rated... I'm wondering if anyone knows where one could find specs or information on just what an inverter rated motor can take as far as constant reversing abuse, etc. ...and before anyone suggests it, it must be a 56C face, TEFC motor. An external fan may help a bit as would using a washdown motor and spraying it with coolant... But I'm not able to go either route for this particular customer. Thanks for any insight or help you can offer. Joe...WEG motors are what OmniTurn uses..and Ive seen them do exactly what you are doing for years as production lathes. Just be sure to use as large a braking resistor as you can...200 watts We use the old faithful standby PC3/Yaskawa 606PC3/yada yada yada VFD..its been labled by everyone under the sun.. and is absolutely bullet proof. The only time Ive every replaced one in the 12 or so years OmniTurn has been using them..was the result of either lightning or flood, or forklift damage. And the lightning only took out the 0-10 volt analog voltage section. Im currently running my Gorton Mastermill on that same VFD using a pot to change speed..and have been..on single phase..for almost 10 yrs. Hey! That's exactly what I was babbling about in theory, only you know the real part numbers! Actually..in the Real World..Im fairly competent. Here on Usenet, I get to put on the silly hat, or speak from the dark reaches of my backbrain..G Braking resistors, huh? No one wants to shove the braking power backwards up the electrical line (which is eminently possible in theory, with lots of practical difficulties). They could call them "green", then. One really needs to use a braking resistor on most VFDs. Many of the older ones had a built in one..or simply coasted to a stop. Nearly all VFDs made in the last 10 yrs have that output. The need for a braking _something_ comes from simple physics: if you want to slow that there motor down you gotta remove the kinetic energy from the motor and whatever it's attached to, and that kinetic energy has to go somewhere. So you either shove it into a resistor, you induce some _really_ inefficient operation in the motor, or you shove it up the power company's ass-embly. Shoving it into a resistor is easy, 'cause the VFD will have a 'raw power' rail in it somewhere, which would go over voltage without putting the energy somewhere, and the easy place to put that energy is into a braking resistor. I read somewhere of a machine shop that used an extra element in their water heater for a vfd braking resistor. |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
"Gunner Asch" wrote in message ... On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 15:12:47 -0700, Tim Wescott wrote: snip http://cgi.ebay.com/Resistor-power-r...-/150467109756 It really doesnt need to be 200 watts on a home machine. Even 100 watts will work fine. All you got to do is take your ohm meter..tweak it the slider to the proper ohms rating for your vfd..and hook up some wires. Be careful when using a slider to set the ohms. You'll need to derate the wattage proportional to the setting. ie 50% of the ohms is 50% of the wattage. http://www.ohmite.com/catalog/210_series.html The other thing is the reliability of the slider connection is much lower than the reliability of a fixed resistor. Art |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Gunner Asch wrote: ... http://cgi.ebay.com/Iwaki-Regenerati...-/170531505301 ... Oh, that's good one: "... Regenerative Braking Resistor ...". I guess "regenerative" is a new buzz word that sounds good (& green), that people will be using when neither they nor their readers know what it means. It's not a new word and it's a wrong word for the application. GE straight electric locomotives were using true regenerative braking in 1915. Most all diesel-electric locomotives use dynamic braking meaning a big hulking resistor. |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 16:00:36 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote: Making the motor burn it up is, in general, just plain stupid. You'd have to do some crazy thing (like putting a DC current into the motor) Actually..thats how most VFDs apply braking.....G I am the Sword of my Family and the Shield of my Nation. If sent, I will crush everything you have built, burn everything you love, and kill every one of you. (Hebrew quote) |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 19:13:36 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: ... http://cgi.ebay.com/Iwaki-Regenerati...-/170531505301 ... Oh, that's good one: "... Regenerative Braking Resistor ...". I guess "regenerative" is a new buzz word that sounds good (& green), that people will be using when neither they nor their readers know what it means. Sigh, Bob Hey - does that mean that I can say that the brakes on my car are regenerative? Chuckle...actually..it does use active technology to induce braking, not just kicking the power out. VFDs inject DC current into ac motors to slow and stop them. The resulting hysterisis must go somewhere. Hence the braking resistors are used to burn off the mess. Gunner I am the Sword of my Family and the Shield of my Nation. If sent, I will crush everything you have built, burn everything you love, and kill every one of you. (Hebrew quote) |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 16:23:46 -0700, "Artemus" wrote:
"Gunner Asch" wrote in message .. . On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 15:12:47 -0700, Tim Wescott wrote: snip http://cgi.ebay.com/Resistor-power-r...-/150467109756 It really doesnt need to be 200 watts on a home machine. Even 100 watts will work fine. All you got to do is take your ohm meter..tweak it the slider to the proper ohms rating for your vfd..and hook up some wires. Be careful when using a slider to set the ohms. You'll need to derate the wattage proportional to the setting. ie 50% of the ohms is 50% of the wattage. http://www.ohmite.com/catalog/210_series.html The other thing is the reliability of the slider connection is much lower than the reliability of a fixed resistor. Art True indeed. Which is why you use a power resistor as close to your needed ohms as possible. You get the maximum value of the heat handling of the resistor. Fixed 200 watt resistors are a bit harder to find and a bit more expensive, though Im seeing them on Ebay much cheaper these days. Gunner I am the Sword of my Family and the Shield of my Nation. If sent, I will crush everything you have built, burn everything you love, and kill every one of you. (Hebrew quote) |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
Jim Stewart wrote:
Bob Engelhardt wrote: Oh, that's good one: "... Regenerative Braking Resistor ...". I guess "regenerative" is a new buzz word that sounds good ... It's not a new word I know, I meant being new-ly used as a buzz word and it's a wrong word for the application. ... That was my point. Bob |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
On Aug 23, 3:08*pm, "Joe AutoDrill" wrote:
I'm about to use a Leeson model 110163 motor for a job that will reverse the motor approximately every 4 seconds with a proper inverter, breaking resistor, etc. I've tried contacting multiple AC drive experts at Leeson over the past week or so with not a single live person answering and zero returned phone calls. I've got to use the Leeson because of the motor's dimensions... Although WEG and a Chinese import I found both would fit and are inverter rated... I'm wondering if anyone knows where one could find specs or information on just what an inverter rated motor can take as far as constant reversing abuse, etc. ...and before anyone suggests it, it must be a 56C face, TEFC motor. *An external fan may help a bit as would using a washdown motor and spraying it with coolant... *But I'm not able to go either route for this particular customer. Thanks for any insight or help you can offer. Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. (800) 871-5022 01.908.542.0244 Automatic / Pneumatic Drills:http://www.AutoDrill.com Multiple Spindle Drills:http://www.Multi-Drill.com Production Tapping:http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/ Flagship Site:http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com VIDEOS:http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill TWITTER:http://twitter.com/AutoDrill FACEBOOK:http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook V8013-R According to this (from 2007 post): http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.c...=178863&page=9 "inverter duty" is a vague term. You might be better off finding out what NEMA specifications (if any) for the motor in question. NEMA MC1 provides more detailed information about what the motor should take. |
#16
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
On Aug 24, 8:03*am, "Denis G." wrote:
On Aug 23, 3:08*pm, "Joe AutoDrill" wrote: I'm about to use a Leeson model 110163 motor for a job that will reverse the motor approximately every 4 seconds with a proper inverter, breaking resistor, etc. I've tried contacting multiple AC drive experts at Leeson over the past week or so with not a single live person answering and zero returned phone calls. I've got to use the Leeson because of the motor's dimensions... Although WEG and a Chinese import I found both would fit and are inverter rated... I'm wondering if anyone knows where one could find specs or information on just what an inverter rated motor can take as far as constant reversing abuse, etc. ...and before anyone suggests it, it must be a 56C face, TEFC motor. *An external fan may help a bit as would using a washdown motor and spraying it with coolant... *But I'm not able to go either route for this particular customer. Thanks for any insight or help you can offer. Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. (800) 871-5022 01.908.542.0244 Automatic / Pneumatic Drills:http://www.AutoDrill.com Multiple Spindle Drills:http://www.Multi-Drill.com Production Tapping:http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/ Flagship Site:http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com VIDEOS:http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill TWITTER:http://twitter.com/AutoDrill FACEBOOK:http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook V8013-R According to this (from 2007 post):http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.c...=178863&page=9 "inverter duty" is a vague term. *You might be better off finding out what NEMA specifications (if any) for the motor in question. *NEMA MC1 provides more detailed information about what the motor should take.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Added info; http://www.leeson.com/leeson/searchp...&productType=0 |
#17
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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One for the motor experts...
In article ,
Gunner Asch wrote: On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 15:12:47 -0700, Tim Wescott wrote: On 08/23/2010 03:07 PM, Gunner Asch wrote: On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 16:08:44 -0400, "Joe wrote: I'm about to use a Leeson model 110163 motor for a job that will reverse the motor approximately every 4 seconds with a proper inverter, breaking resistor, etc. I've tried contacting multiple AC drive experts at Leeson over the past week or so with not a single live person answering and zero returned phone calls. I've got to use the Leeson because of the motor's dimensions... Although WEG and a Chinese import I found both would fit and are inverter rated... I'm wondering if anyone knows where one could find specs or information on just what an inverter rated motor can take as far as constant reversing abuse, etc. ...and before anyone suggests it, it must be a 56C face, TEFC motor. An external fan may help a bit as would using a washdown motor and spraying it with coolant... But I'm not able to go either route for this particular customer. Thanks for any insight or help you can offer. Joe...WEG motors are what OmniTurn uses..and Ive seen them do exactly what you are doing for years as production lathes. Just be sure to use as large a braking resistor as you can...200 watts We use the old faithful standby PC3/Yaskawa 606PC3/yada yada yada VFD..its been labled by everyone under the sun.. and is absolutely bullet proof. The only time Ive every replaced one in the 12 or so years OmniTurn has been using them..was the result of either lightning or flood, or forklift damage. And the lightning only took out the 0-10 volt analog voltage section. Im currently running my Gorton Mastermill on that same VFD using a pot to change speed..and have been..on single phase..for almost 10 yrs. Hey! That's exactly what I was babbling about in theory, only you know the real part numbers! Actually..in the Real World..Im fairly competent. Here on Usenet, I get to put on the silly hat, or speak from the dark reaches of my backbrain..G Braking resistors, huh? No one wants to shove the braking power backwards up the electrical line (which is eminently possible in theory, with lots of practical difficulties). They could call them "green", then. One really needs to use a braking resistor on most VFDs. Many of the older ones had a built in one..or simply coasted to a stop. Nearly all VFDs made in the last 10 yrs have that output. Tubular ceramic resistors can be had on Ebay for a few bucks and are far far cheaper than the flat packed heatsinked resistors used on commercial machines. The 200 watt tube resistor Ive got mine hooked to, cost me $4, shipping included G http://cgi.ebay.com/HEAP-ASSORTED-HIGH-WATTAGE-RESISTORS-YOU-GET-42PCS-/300457464945 See the long *******s to the right of the pile? Those thingies. http://cgi.ebay.com/Resistor-power-resistor-wire-wound-25-ohms-175-watts-/150467109756 It really doesnt need to be 200 watts on a home machine. Even 100 watts will work fine. Be sure to enclose that resistor in a grounded metal box such that the resistor cannot be accidentally touched, or be shorted by flying chips. There will be something like 450 volts (backed by a large capacitor and the rectified AC power line) across that resistor when braking. There could be drama. Joe Gwinn |
#18
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One for the motor experts...
Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Jim Stewart wrote: Bob Engelhardt wrote: Oh, that's good one: "... Regenerative Braking Resistor ...". I guess "regenerative" is a new buzz word that sounds good ... It's not a new word I know, I meant being new-ly used as a buzz word and it's a wrong word for the application. ... That was my point. Bob Dissipate goes hand & hand with resistors |
#19
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Clausing 1500 drive belt
Gunner. Did you get your anwer over in the Yahoo group? There's a guy with a 1500 who looked at the belt on his machine and responded to your inquiry today. It may not be the right belt since he's describing it going from the motor to the spindle rather than to a countershaft like the 5900 / 6900's but maybe that's the way the 1500s are built. RWL |
#20
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One for the motor experts...
On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 16:08:44 -0400, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote: I'm about to use a Leeson model 110163 motor for a job that will reverse the motor approximately every 4 seconds with a proper inverter, breaking resistor, etc. I've tried contacting multiple AC drive experts at Leeson over the past week or so with not a single live person answering and zero returned phone calls. I've got to use the Leeson because of the motor's dimensions... Although WEG and a Chinese import I found both would fit and are inverter rated... I'm wondering if anyone knows where one could find specs or information on just what an inverter rated motor can take as far as constant reversing abuse, etc. ...and before anyone suggests it, it must be a 56C face, TEFC motor. An external fan may help a bit as would using a washdown motor and spraying it with coolant... But I'm not able to go either route for this particular customer. Thanks for any insight or help you can offer. Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. (800) 871-5022 01.908.542.0244 Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/ Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook V8013-R There's no simple answer but this may help a bit. VFDs use two different methods of braking control. The preferred method, usually labelled deceleration time setting, turns the motor into a pretty efficient generator and channels the motor armature kinetic energy back into the supply and/or into an external braking resistor. For long deceleration times the peak regenerated power is low and can be absorbed by the normal VFD system losses. When programmed for shorter deceleration times the peak power exceeds the system losses and unless an external braking resistor is fitted to absorb the excess generated power the braking action will disappear. With an external resistor this method is very kind to the motor because the losses in the motor during braking are not much larger than in normal full load operation. It's not suitable for emergency stops or very short braking times because the peak generated power then exceeds the VFD power handling capacity. For shorter stopping times DC injection is used. This is pretty brutal because all the motor kinetic energy and the added DC injection power is now dissipated within the motor. The amount of DC injection used is also programmable so use as little as possible. However, even with the minimum injection most of the kinetic energy is still dissipated in the motor. Similar arguments apply to motor starting. With direct online starting large starting currents flow and, because for most of the time there is the wrong relation between supply frequency and motor RPM a very large amount power is dissipated in the motor windings.This is reason for limiting the permissble number of starts per hour. Starting via a VFD is much more favourable. The program control is now acceleration time setting. Within the permissible range the VFD can control the relation between VFD frequency and voltage and this enbles the motor to operate at near normal efficiency permitting frequent starts Because in both starting and stopping the VFD limits the peak power that can be handled it helps to oversize the VFD Jim |
#21
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One for the motor experts...
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 23 Aug 2010 16:00:36 -0700, Tim Wescott wrote: Making the motor burn it up is, in general, just plain stupid. You'd have to do some crazy thing (like putting a DC current into the motor) Actually..thats how most VFDs apply braking.....G Some machines don't have the VFD and still use dc braking. That is how the tool changer is stopped on some old Mori Seki VMC's. Wes |
#22
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One for the motor experts...
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#23
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One for the motor experts...
...and before anyone suggests it, it must be a 56C face, TEFC motor.
An external fan may help a bit as would using a washdown motor and spraying it with coolant... But I'm not able to go either route for this particular customer. Joe, I just now caught what you said. (after all this timeg) Son, a TEFC motor HAS an external fan! So what did you mean "An external fan may help....not able to go either route..."? An external fan that does not slow down or speed up with the VFD. In other words, an external air source that is blowing even if the motor is not turning. -- Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. (800) 871-5022 01.908.542.0244 Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/ Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook V8013-R |
#24
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Clausing 1500 drive belt
On Tue, 24 Aug 2010 21:29:07 -0400, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote: Gunner. Did you get your anwer over in the Yahoo group? There's a guy with a 1500 who looked at the belt on his machine and responded to your inquiry today. It may not be the right belt since he's describing it going from the motor to the spindle rather than to a countershaft like the 5900 / 6900's but maybe that's the way the 1500s are built. RWL No..Ive been in LA for the past couple days. I bought a new belt from Thompson Industrial Bearings, today for $75 out the door. They had to order it in from a warehouse. Ill go out to the car in the morning and bring it in, and post the numbers and whatnot. I cant remember who made it..started with a B..... But its a duplicate of the belt that came off the lathe. Clausing wanted $130, plus shipping, so I figure Im about $60 ahead of the deal Still $25 more than I figured it should cost..but...sometimes one has to bite the bullet Gunner I am the Sword of my Family and the Shield of my Nation. If sent, I will crush everything you have built, burn everything you love, and kill every one of you. (Hebrew quote) |
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