Ignoramus30382 wrote:
My coolant pump died today. All points to the run capacitor (there is
no start capacitor). The pump vibrates and overheats, but would not
run.

10 uF, 220v.

The cap is attached to the pump motor by means of a springy bracket.

This is a "sealed capacitor" with no exposed terminals. It is not
like regular caps with push on terminals. There are no exposed
terminals. I can post a picture tomorrow.

I could not find such units at mcmaster or digikey. Are there such
caps sold anywhere at all?

i
Ugh. So, the cap is electrically connected to the motor by some
contacts that are held together by whatever mounts it mechanically?
First, I'd check it with the Ohms scale on a DVM, then charge the cap
with the diode test on a DVM and see if it holds charge for any time.
It should show low resistance first, then charge up and eventually show
a very high resistance on the Ohms scale. If not, it is shot.

If you can't find an exact replacement, you may have to solder wires and
use a standard cap with QC terminals.

Jon

On 2010-08-05, Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus30382 wrote:
My coolant pump died today. All points to the run capacitor (there is
no start capacitor). The pump vibrates and overheats, but would not
run.

10 uF, 220v.

The cap is attached to the pump motor by means of a springy bracket.

This is a "sealed capacitor" with no exposed terminals. It is not
like regular caps with push on terminals. There are no exposed
terminals. I can post a picture tomorrow.

I could not find such units at mcmaster or digikey. Are there such
caps sold anywhere at all?

i
Ugh. So, the cap is electrically connected to the motor by some
contacts that are held together by whatever mounts it mechanically?

No, the cap is held on the motor with a clip, having nothing to do
with conduction, but the two conductor cable going from it to the
motor is sealed (no terminals).

First, I'd check it with the Ohms scale on a DVM, then charge the cap
with the diode test on a DVM and see if it holds charge for any time.
It should show low resistance first, then charge up and eventually show
a very high resistance on the Ohms scale. If not, it is shot.

If you can't find an exact replacement, you may have to solder wires and
use a standard cap with QC terminals.


I have some run caps, 20 something uF, I will connect two in series
and try that as a temporary replacement.

Thanks Jon

Jon Elson fired this volley in
:

Ugh. So, the cap is electrically connected to the motor by some
contacts that are held together by whatever mounts it mechanically?
First, I'd check it with the Ohms scale on a DVM, then charge the cap
with the diode test on a DVM and see if it holds charge for any time.
It should show low resistance first, then charge up and eventually show
a very high resistance on the Ohms scale. If not, it is shot.

If you can't find an exact replacement, you may have to solder wires
and
use a standard cap with QC terminals.


You don't read the group in threaded view, do you, Jon?

All this and more were dealt with in prior responses.

LLoyd