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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Amana portable A/C: shop limitations, inneresting thermodynamics....
It's a good idea to choose a filter size that is at least several more times
larger than the original intake opening. A frame that allows easy changing of the filter works out best, so it's not too much trouble to swap in a clean filter, that way changing them before the internal parts get clogged instead of procrastinating too long. I'm certain that material like bedsheet would be too restrictive and greatly reduce the A/C unit's performance. Less airflow, no worky. I use the double or triple layer cut-to-size (furnace filter) material for air cleaners, and cover the edges with wide masking tape (~1.5"). The edges will leak a lot of dirt if they're uneven and not taped. Over the outside, I unfold dust-grabbing painting/refinishing tack-rag (rosin treated cheesecloth, I think), and instead of just laying it over a louvered panel/grille for example, I use dowel rods or other features to hold the tack-rag away from the front panel (utilizing more surface area of the tack-rag). With the edges of the trimmed tack-rag held in place with wide masking tape, it's fairly easy to just peel the dirty one off, and replace it with a clean tack-rag. I wouldn't use a tack-rag in a furnace because I don't want to introduce potentially flammable material inside (I assume they're not fire-resistant), but for room air cleaners, window A/C units, room dehumidifiers, they work great. The important feature is to have (at least) several times more area for the filtered opening.. that way, the filter can become partially restricted with dirt before significantly reducing air flow and diminishing performance. A box about 22" square, with a decent axial fan fitted so it's blowing out, and a cheap 20x20" furnace filter covered with a tack-rag fitted to the intake side, will catch a hellofalotta airborne dust in a workshop. The little breeze can be comfortable in the summer up here in the northeast. I made one with a squirrelcage blower in it (wheel size ~7" dia x 3" wide), and the output feels similar to A/C when the temps get hot. I had it on a stand about 4 feet height so it was easy to move around. -- WB .......... "Existential Angst" wrote in message news:4c394b82 It actually won't be that hard to do. I will scavenge the innards of a typical frame filter, and just duct-tape it around that big unfiltered opening. Won't be pretty, but it will work. Even an old bed sheet would proly work! -- EA ~~ Evan |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Amana portable A/C: shop limitations, inneresting thermodynamics....
"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
... It's a good idea to choose a filter size that is at least several more times larger than the original intake opening. A frame that allows easy changing of the filter works out best, so it's not too much trouble to swap in a clean filter, that way changing them before the internal parts get clogged instead of procrastinating too long. I'm certain that material like bedsheet would be too restrictive and greatly reduce the A/C unit's performance. Less airflow, no worky. I use the double or triple layer cut-to-size (furnace filter) material for air cleaners, and cover the edges with wide masking tape (~1.5"). The edges will leak a lot of dirt if they're uneven and not taped. Over the outside, I unfold dust-grabbing painting/refinishing tack-rag (rosin treated cheesecloth, I think), and instead of just laying it over a louvered panel/grille for example, I use dowel rods or other features to hold the tack-rag away from the front panel (utilizing more surface area of the tack-rag). With the edges of the trimmed tack-rag held in place with wide masking tape, it's fairly easy to just peel the dirty one off, and replace it with a clean tack-rag. I'm not clear on which you actually use: furnace filters, or the tack-rag stuff. Or are these just two alternatives? Are these things that HD carries? Under what name? Good ideas, tho, overall. The bottom opening to the Amana is quite curvey, so indeed there will be a lot of cutting/duct -taping. That box filter idea is excellent, altho probably more for a wood shop than metal. Altho, proly *required* for a metal shop in which occasional woodcutting occurs, like mine. But, ahm walkin sideways in my shop as it is.... -- EA I wouldn't use a tack-rag in a furnace because I don't want to introduce potentially flammable material inside (I assume they're not fire-resistant), but for room air cleaners, window A/C units, room dehumidifiers, they work great. The important feature is to have (at least) several times more area for the filtered opening.. that way, the filter can become partially restricted with dirt before significantly reducing air flow and diminishing performance. A box about 22" square, with a decent axial fan fitted so it's blowing out, and a cheap 20x20" furnace filter covered with a tack-rag fitted to the intake side, will catch a hellofalotta airborne dust in a workshop. The little breeze can be comfortable in the summer up here in the northeast. I made one with a squirrelcage blower in it (wheel size ~7" dia x 3" wide), and the output feels similar to A/C when the temps get hot. I had it on a stand about 4 feet height so it was easy to move around. -- WB ......... "Existential Angst" wrote in message news:4c394b82 It actually won't be that hard to do. I will scavenge the innards of a typical frame filter, and just duct-tape it around that big unfiltered opening. Won't be pretty, but it will work. Even an old bed sheet would proly work! -- EA ~~ Evan |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Amana portable A/C: shop limitations, inneresting thermodynamics....
The stuff I use for room air cleaners is WEB Odor Control Filter. These
consist of 2 separate materials, a spun poly layer and a foam charcoal layer. The package includes a rigid plastic support grille/backup grid (since the filter materials have no structural strength). These 2 materials are highly effective for room air cleaners. Maybe not so much for shop dirt near the floor, but they will effectively stop/capture most dust particles. The cut-to-size WEB materials fit inside the room air cleaners I have, as a replacement for the pleated, hack/spit HEPA filters that are made to fit the unit (about $30 each). The plastic grid supports the filter media. But I place the tack-rag material on the outside of the air cleaner's intake grille, as a pre-filter, to catch most of the dust that would load up the filter media. It's much easier and cheaper to peel off the dust-filled tack-rag and put a clean one on, instead of cleaning a lot of dirt out of the air cleaner's grille and interior, in addition to replacing the filter media. There are spun poly filters (soft fuzzy material) that will catch airborne dust and dirt. These may be found in the typical cardboard frames for slide-in furnace replacement filters, or in sheets that can be cut with scissors. With an added layer of tack-rag, these would very likely catch most of the debris you want to keep out of your portable A/C unit. The charcoal media layer that comes in the WEB package would likely be too restrictive for the portable A/C unit you have (assuming the air mover is a small fan, not a squirrelcage-type blower). The really cheap fibreglas filters (coarse strands) aren't worth the trouble to cut to size, really. They're useful as a backup/support material (as a frame/form) to apply the tack-rag material to, though, if the application can use a standard 16"x ? or 20"x ? size filter. The cheap fibreglas filters are generally very poor air filters, since if they are held flat, and sand is sprinkled on them, the sand falls through. A window screen is probably much better as a filter. -- WB .......... "Existential Angst" wrote in message ... "Wild_Bill" wrote in message ... It's a good idea to choose a filter size that is at least several more times larger than the original intake opening. A frame that allows easy changing of the filter works out best, so it's not too much trouble to swap in a clean filter, that way changing them before the internal parts get clogged instead of procrastinating too long. I'm certain that material like bedsheet would be too restrictive and greatly reduce the A/C unit's performance. Less airflow, no worky. I use the double or triple layer cut-to-size (furnace filter) material for air cleaners, and cover the edges with wide masking tape (~1.5"). The edges will leak a lot of dirt if they're uneven and not taped. Over the outside, I unfold dust-grabbing painting/refinishing tack-rag (rosin treated cheesecloth, I think), and instead of just laying it over a louvered panel/grille for example, I use dowel rods or other features to hold the tack-rag away from the front panel (utilizing more surface area of the tack-rag). With the edges of the trimmed tack-rag held in place with wide masking tape, it's fairly easy to just peel the dirty one off, and replace it with a clean tack-rag. I'm not clear on which you actually use: furnace filters, or the tack-rag stuff. Or are these just two alternatives? Are these things that HD carries? Under what name? Good ideas, tho, overall. The bottom opening to the Amana is quite curvey, so indeed there will be a lot of cutting/duct -taping. That box filter idea is excellent, altho probably more for a wood shop than metal. Altho, proly *required* for a metal shop in which occasional woodcutting occurs, like mine. But, ahm walkin sideways in my shop as it is.... -- EA |
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