Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Phase II and BXA

I couldn't find the thread where we discussed Phase II and BXA but I decided today to dump
my Aloris AXA wedge and go with Phase II BXA wedge for my Clausing 6903. Now, assuming
the post is worth having, I can build up a collection of holders which is what QC is all
about.

I'll also get to use some BXA holders that came with the lathe. The only regret is my
Aloris AXA threading holder won't fit. Not a big issue since when one threads, the
compound tends to get set to 29.5 or 30. Changing out a tool post isn't a big deal.

Careful work with a carbide dovetail cutter could convert the tool holder to the new post.
I might try reworking my CDCO holders if it works out okay. Change that, the CDCO holders
will be the guinea pig, if it works out, then I'll attack my Aloris threading tool holder.

My metal working content for today.

Wes

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Default Phase II and BXA

On 2010-07-04, Wes wrote:
I couldn't find the thread where we discussed Phase II and BXA but I decided today to dump
my Aloris AXA wedge and go with Phase II BXA wedge for my Clausing 6903.


Good move!

Now, assuming
the post is worth having, I can build up a collection of holders which is what QC is all
about.


You can, and should.

I'll also get to use some BXA holders that came with the lathe.


I presume that you got the set, so you have five holders (of
which one is probably going to sit there unused -- the knurling one. I
used a scissors style knurler until I lucked into a genuine Aloris BXA
knurling holder which has the two rolls on arms mounted on dovetails
with a leadscrew driven by a knurled knob which is left-hand thread on
one end and right-hand thread on the other, so turning it in one
direction moves the arms together, and the other direction moves them
apart -- while maintaining the height adjustment for all sizes of
workpiece.

The one thing you probably should do is to get a box of good
American made metric set screws (8mm IIRC) to replace those which hold
the tools. The ones in the holders are likely to split when you torque
down on a tool, making it very difficult to remove the tool in the
future. (Of course, they may have improved the metallurgy since I got my
set.) I actually took the time to re-tap the holes to an inch thread
which is quite close to the metric thread -- and which means that I can
use the same Allen key in both the Phase-II and the Aloris holders. But
that gun tap which I used is probably not good for anything more now.
That is some tough metal in those holders. :-)

The only regret is my
Aloris AXA threading holder won't fit. Not a big issue since when one threads, the
compound tends to get set to 29.5 or 30. Changing out a tool post isn't a big deal.


O.K. I normally leave the compound at 29.5 degrees -- and only
shift it if doing left-hand threads. Except that I had to shift it the
other night, with the lathe covered with newspaper, prior to using a
toolpost grinder (the first time I have actually *used* one which I have
had for a couple of years now. But there was a task which really
required that, so it was time. :-)

Careful work with a carbide dovetail cutter could convert the tool holder to the new post.


Even the Phase-II holders are tough. I hope your mill is rigid
enough to handle the carbide in that job.

But I think that you would be losing significant rigidity in the
old holders. Maybe just look for another threading holder in the right
size on eBay -- and maybe the threading bit will move between the sizes.

But for threading, I tend to use laydown carbide inserts in one
of the BXA holders which extends out closer to the workpiece for better
rigidity. I did some 3/8-32 threading in D2 steel the other day, and it
worked nicely. That D2 steel is *expensive* compared to A1 or the
various water and oil quenching steels. $47.?? for a 36" rod of 3/8"
diameter.

I might try reworking my CDCO holders if it works out okay. Change that, the CDCO holders
will be the guinea pig, if it works out, then I'll attack my Aloris threading tool holder.


:-)

My metal working content for today.


A good start.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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Default Phase II and BXA

I have an AXA on my Sheldon L-44. Chrome ways (na-na! :-) )
I have made several work holders for it from iron. I suspect a nice
block of leaded steel would be a delight to machine.
Why not make a holder for the threading tool or holder to hold the AxA
tools themselves. Like the threading tool, a boring bar might be
smaller and needed - and so forth.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/

On 7/4/2010 6:20 PM, Wes wrote:
I couldn't find the thread where we discussed Phase II and BXA but I decided today to dump
my Aloris AXA wedge and go with Phase II BXA wedge for my Clausing 6903. Now, assuming
the post is worth having, I can build up a collection of holders which is what QC is all
about.

I'll also get to use some BXA holders that came with the lathe. The only regret is my
Aloris AXA threading holder won't fit. Not a big issue since when one threads, the
compound tends to get set to 29.5 or 30. Changing out a tool post isn't a big deal.

Careful work with a carbide dovetail cutter could convert the tool holder to the new post.
I might try reworking my CDCO holders if it works out okay. Change that, the CDCO holders
will be the guinea pig, if it works out, then I'll attack my Aloris threading tool holder.

My metal working content for today.

Wes

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Default Phase II and BXA

You will be very happy with the choice. I have a boatload of quick
change holders and it works out really great. Just yesterday I needed
a pipe bored out, was done in 10 minutes.
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Default Phase II and BXA

I've had only 1 problem withp Phase 2 tool posts. The mounting screw had to be cleaned and
re-loctited to hold it in place. This happened with 2 sets of Phase 2. It also happened with a
home-made quick change mount from a friend.

Bob Swinney
"Wes" wrote in message
...
I couldn't find the thread where we discussed Phase II and BXA but I decided today to dump
my Aloris AXA wedge and go with Phase II BXA wedge for my Clausing 6903. Now, assuming
the post is worth having, I can build up a collection of holders which is what QC is all
about.

I'll also get to use some BXA holders that came with the lathe. The only regret is my
Aloris AXA threading holder won't fit. Not a big issue since when one threads, the
compound tends to get set to 29.5 or 30. Changing out a tool post isn't a big deal.

Careful work with a carbide dovetail cutter could convert the tool holder to the new post.
I might try reworking my CDCO holders if it works out okay. Change that, the CDCO holders
will be the guinea pig, if it works out, then I'll attack my Aloris threading tool holder.

My metal working content for today.

Wes



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Default Phase II and BXA

On 2010-07-05, Wes wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2010-07-04, Wes wrote:


[ ... ]

I'll also get to use some BXA holders that came with the lathe.


I found them, I almost offered these to the group available to pick up at Names. Two BXA
#2 made by Aloris and a MT2 drill holder. Not sure who made that. That could be helpful
if I need to drill out another barrel for a liner.


O.K. #2 is the one like the #1 but with a shallow V groove in
the bottom of the holder slot -- making it good for holding round
shanked tools such as boring bars -- but still good for standard
square-shanked tools as well. Probably the most generally useful of
them all.

I presume that you got the set, so you have five holders (of
which one is probably going to sit there unused -- the knurling one. I
used a scissors style knurler until I lucked into a genuine Aloris BXA
knurling holder which has the two rolls on arms mounted on dovetails
with a leadscrew driven by a knurled knob which is left-hand thread on
one end and right-hand thread on the other, so turning it in one
direction moves the arms together, and the other direction moves them
apart -- while maintaining the height adjustment for all sizes of
workpiece.



I looked that up. I think it was a #19 I like that.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...MT4NO=88812299


Intersting. Mine has a knurled knob with a tommy-bar hole
instead of the balanced crank.

And I think that the male dovetail is on the body in mine. So
they have changed the design a bit. :-)

324.45 ouch! Maybe after I pay off the house.


Well -- remember, I said "lucked into" (on eBay). I'm sure that
it was under $100.00. It looked weird enough so most people weren't
bidding on it. :-)


The one thing you probably should do is to get a box of good
American made metric set screws (8mm IIRC) to replace those which hold
the tools. The ones in the holders are likely to split when you torque
down on a tool, making it very difficult to remove the tool in the
future.


I replaced the screws in my AXA holders. What is it about China that they cheap out on
set screws?


I really don't know.

Aloris AXA threading holder won't fit. Not a big issue since when one threads, the
compound tends to get set to 29.5 or 30. Changing out a tool post isn't a big deal.


O.K. I normally leave the compound at 29.5 degrees -- and only
shift it if doing left-hand threads. Except that I had to shift it the
other night, with the lathe covered with newspaper, prior to using a
toolpost grinder (the first time I have actually *used* one which I have
had for a couple of years now. But there was a task which really
required that, so it was time. :-)



I normally leave mine at 29.5 also except when I need to turn accurate shoulders. I don't
have a micrometer stop and using my drawbar and 4.5MT to 5c adaptor leaves no room to fit
one. I'm going to have to get a L00 collet chuck one of these days or get inventive.


Hmmm .... how is your collet closer getting in the way of a
micrometer stop -- which normally clamps onto the outer V way -- often
under the shoulder of the headstock. (Of course, I don't know what
lathe you have -- though with the 4.5 MT and L-00 it sounds like my
Clausing.

But I've seen illustrations of Clausing lever style collet
closers which bolt to the front of the headstock instead of working
through the spindle. Mine works through the spindle and came with the
lathe, along with a bed turret (and no normal tailstock).

Careful work with a carbide dovetail cutter could convert the tool holder to the new post.


Even the Phase-II holders are tough. I hope your mill is rigid
enough to handle the carbide in that job.


Well, it is a bridgeport.


I would feel a bit better using my Nichols horizontal mill for
that. Less of a flex path than any vertical mill has.

The other thought would be to use uncles surface grinder, a
sine bar and dressing a wheel.


O.K. An awkward reach -- though a small enough cup wheel might
work. But a *lot* of passes to remove that much material. :-)

But I think that you would be losing significant rigidity in the
old holders. Maybe just look for another threading holder in the right
size on eBay -- and maybe the threading bit will move between the sizes.

But for threading, I tend to use laydown carbide inserts in one
of the BXA holders which extends out closer to the workpiece for better
rigidity. I did some 3/8-32 threading in D2 steel the other day, and it
worked nicely. That D2 steel is *expensive* compared to A1 or the
various water and oil quenching steels. $47.?? for a 36" rod of 3/8"
diameter.


Ouch! I haven't used any laydown inserts. I have used brazed carbide on materials that
were too hard for HSS before. One night I had to make a NF fastener using a longer FHSC
that had a unthreaded shoulder that was perfect for use to thread.


I like the laydown inserts. It allows me to have a general
purpose sharp one for multiple threads, a specific size Acme threading
insert (with angled anvils to adjust for different thread pitch angles,
including left-hand threads), and (should I ever start making enough of
a specific thread, a full profile insert which properly rounds the
bottom and the crest of the threads.

D2 three times the price of A2 and 6 times the price of O1.

I might try reworking my CDCO holders if it works out okay. Change that, the CDCO holders
will be the guinea pig, if it works out, then I'll attack my Aloris threading tool holder.


I see I have stock, I'll try making a new threading holder in BXA dimensions and screw the
threading bit to it. I assume I can case harden A36. I gotta get something smaller than
my pottery kiln.


Hmm ... A36 is a high carbon steel anyway, isn't it?

O.K. Sort of medium I guess.

12L14 is 0.14% carbon

4140 is 0.40% carbon

And A36 is 0.26% carbon

so it should be somewhat hardenable anyway -- but the carbon is low
enough so it would take up carbon from something like Kasenit or bone
meal or whatever.

My oven is just barely big enough to hold a BXA series holder
block, perhaps with a can around it to hold the Kasenit for the case
hardening. The real trick is getting it out and out of the can quickly
enough to quench properly. A little crowded for getting tongs in to
grip it. Perhaps get some stainless steel flat, bend up one end with a
hole through it to act as a sled which can be hooked and pulled onto the
apron of the oven.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
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