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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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13' Boston Whaler Restoration
Hey All:
A neighbor of mine on the pond I live has offered me a free use of a 13' Boston Whaler, if I can fix it up... I dinna know a lot about those things, but free is free. It's got a couple of cracks in the fiberglass, and gel coat, and water has seeped into the foam. Is there a way to dry them out quickly? A quick wick? I can deal with patching the fiberglass, but getting dry is the first step. Any thoughts? |
#3
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13' Boston Whaler Restoration
"Ecnerwal" wrote in message ... In article , wrote: Hey All: A neighbor of mine on the pond I live has offered me a free use of a 13' Boston Whaler, if I can fix it up... I dinna know a lot about those things, but free is free. It's got a couple of cracks in the fiberglass, and gel coat, and water has seeped into the foam. Is there a way to dry them out quickly? A quick wick? I can deal with patching the fiberglass, but getting dry is the first step. Any thoughts? Truck it to Tuscon, or some other hot dry location. Short of that, get it in a building, crank up the heat, crank down the humidity, and if confident in your glass repair skills, drill some big holes in the glass to expose more foam to air. Would have thought they'd use closed cell foam that would not soak up water (perhaps they did, but it aged into open cells? Not really sure if that's plausible.) They did. We had a 17' Boston Whaler Nausett for 20 years. It may be that it's breaking down. I don't know what foam they used. Or try this...which indicates that cutting away and then replacing fiberglass around the cracked area is a good thing, and perhaps the water is really trapped between delaminated skin and foam, rather than in the foam. http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...tructions.html -- Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by |
#4
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13' Boston Whaler Restoration
On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 20:22:02 -0400, wrote:
Hey All: A neighbor of mine on the pond I live has offered me a free use of a 13' Boston Whaler, if I can fix it up... I dinna know a lot about those things, but free is free. It's got a couple of cracks in the fiberglass, and gel coat, and water has seeped into the foam. Is there a way to dry them out quickly? A quick wick? I can deal with patching the fiberglass, but getting dry is the first step. Any thoughts? Sounds like an easy repair as long as cosmetics are not an issue. Couple ways to dry out the foam..one of which is heat. You may wish to put a 100 watt bulb in a big box and cut the box to fit the area around the cracks where the water came in. It will dry it out over a week or two. The other way is to drill through the wet section and go ahead and patch the cracks properly. Over time the water will vent out through the holes you drilled above the new glass. Having wet foam in small areas is not all that big a deal, though it may grow fungus over time. You may wish to read the following.... The Official Boston Whaler way to repair hulls... http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...tructions.html http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...lerRepair.html A very good source for Whaler info http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ Gunner "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost |
#5
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13' Boston Whaler Restoration
On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 22:08:28 -0400, Ecnerwal
wrote: In article , wrote: Hey All: A neighbor of mine on the pond I live has offered me a free use of a 13' Boston Whaler, if I can fix it up... I dinna know a lot about those things, but free is free. It's got a couple of cracks in the fiberglass, and gel coat, and water has seeped into the foam. Is there a way to dry them out quickly? A quick wick? I can deal with patching the fiberglass, but getting dry is the first step. Any thoughts? Truck it to Tuscon, or some other hot dry location. Short of that, get it in a building, crank up the heat, crank down the humidity, and if confident in your glass repair skills, drill some big holes in the glass to expose more foam to air. Would have thought they'd use closed cell foam that would not soak up water (perhaps they did, but it aged into open cells? Not really sure if that's plausible.) Or try this...which indicates that cutting away and then replacing fiberglass around the cracked area is a good thing, and perhaps the water is really trapped between delaminated skin and foam, rather than in the foam. http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...tructions.html I've had good luck drying out wet foam cores by sealing around the cracks and using a vacuum pump. If you try this either use some sort of catch bottle in the vacuum line or plan on changing the pump oil several times. Depends on the volume you are drying but start with 24 hours of vacuum and then check. Cheers, John D. Slocomb (jdslocombatgmail) |
#6
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13' Boston Whaler Restoration
On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 23:38:31 -0700, Gunner Asch
scribed: On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 20:22:02 -0400, wrote: Hey All: A neighbor of mine on the pond I live has offered me a free use of a 13' Boston Whaler, if I can fix it up... I dinna know a lot about those things, but free is free. It's got a couple of cracks in the fiberglass, and gel coat, and water has seeped into the foam. Is there a way to dry them out quickly? A quick wick? I can deal with patching the fiberglass, but getting dry is the first step. Any thoughts? Sounds like an easy repair as long as cosmetics are not an issue. Couple ways to dry out the foam..one of which is heat. You may wish to put a 100 watt bulb in a big box and cut the box to fit the area around the cracks where the water came in. It will dry it out over a week or two. The other way is to drill through the wet section and go ahead and patch the cracks properly. Over time the water will vent out through the holes you drilled above the new glass. Having wet foam in small areas is not all that big a deal, though it may grow fungus over time. You may wish to read the following.... The Official Boston Whaler way to repair hulls... http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...tructions.html http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...lerRepair.html A very good source for Whaler info http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ Gunner Thank you for the ideas and references... Cosmetics are not an issue, just want it for fishing. Max 8 HP gas on the pond anyway, but i'll probably just put a trolling motor... I won't be towing any skiers. I heard that drilling a couple of holes in the top, and bottom and blowing out with a shop-vac may egress the water quicker... Any thoughts on that? I'd like to get it ready for the season (Almost now) Best, Freddie "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost |
#7
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13' Boston Whaler Restoration
I've had good luck drying out wet foam cores by sealing around the cracks and using a vacuum pump. If you try this either use some sort of catch bottle in the vacuum line or plan on changing the pump oil several times. Depends on the volume you are drying but start with 24 hours of vacuum and then check. Cheers, John D. Slocomb (jdslocombatgmail) That sounds like a good idea. just use an old refrigerator compressor for your pump. Cheap and disposable. Karl |
#8
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13' Boston Whaler Restoration
On Sun, 11 Apr 2010 11:51:20 -0400, Phred
wrote: On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 23:38:31 -0700, Gunner Asch scribed: On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 20:22:02 -0400, wrote: Hey All: A neighbor of mine on the pond I live has offered me a free use of a 13' Boston Whaler, if I can fix it up... I dinna know a lot about those things, but free is free. It's got a couple of cracks in the fiberglass, and gel coat, and water has seeped into the foam. Is there a way to dry them out quickly? A quick wick? I can deal with patching the fiberglass, but getting dry is the first step. Any thoughts? Sounds like an easy repair as long as cosmetics are not an issue. Couple ways to dry out the foam..one of which is heat. You may wish to put a 100 watt bulb in a big box and cut the box to fit the area around the cracks where the water came in. It will dry it out over a week or two. The other way is to drill through the wet section and go ahead and patch the cracks properly. Over time the water will vent out through the holes you drilled above the new glass. Having wet foam in small areas is not all that big a deal, though it may grow fungus over time. You may wish to read the following.... The Official Boston Whaler way to repair hulls... http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...tructions.html http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...lerRepair.html A very good source for Whaler info http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ Gunner Thank you for the ideas and references... Cosmetics are not an issue, just want it for fishing. Max 8 HP gas on the pond anyway, but i'll probably just put a trolling motor... I won't be towing any skiers. I heard that drilling a couple of holes in the top, and bottom and blowing out with a shop-vac may egress the water quicker... Any thoughts on that? I'd like to get it ready for the season (Almost now) It works, but since glass is composed of very small fibres that water will creep into over time..its not all that easy to get it to creep back out . Heat will cause it to evaporate out, over time. The more heat, the faster it works. Too much heat and you start breaking down the glass itself. If you review the above links...it may help you understand the best way..if any way G to get the water out. Gunner Best, Freddie "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost |
#9
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13' Boston Whaler Restoration
On 4/11/2010 10:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote:
I've had good luck drying out wet foam cores by sealing around the cracks and using a vacuum pump. If you try this either use some sort of catch bottle in the vacuum line or plan on changing the pump oil several times. Depends on the volume you are drying but start with 24 hours of vacuum and then check. Cheers, John D. Slocomb (jdslocombatgmail) That sounds like a good idea. just use an old refrigerator compressor for your pump. Cheap and disposable. Karl All good suggestions, but none will actually work in this case. Drying and sealing won't help if the cores have broken loose. In that case, the inner skin is cut open - large enough to dig out all the loose foam. Then a new foam core is inserted and bonded in place. Then the hole in the skin is replaced and repaired. If the problem is extensive, free may be all it's worth. -- Richard Lamb http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/ |
#10
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13' Boston Whaler Restoration
On Sun, 11 Apr 2010 17:00:11 -0500, cavelamb ""cavelamb\"@ X
earthlink.net" wrote: On 4/11/2010 10:58 AM, Karl Townsend wrote: I've had good luck drying out wet foam cores by sealing around the cracks and using a vacuum pump. If you try this either use some sort of catch bottle in the vacuum line or plan on changing the pump oil several times. Depends on the volume you are drying but start with 24 hours of vacuum and then check. Cheers, John D. Slocomb (jdslocombatgmail) That sounds like a good idea. just use an old refrigerator compressor for your pump. Cheap and disposable. Karl All good suggestions, but none will actually work in this case. Drying and sealing won't help if the cores have broken loose. In that case, the inner skin is cut open - large enough to dig out all the loose foam. Then a new foam core is inserted and bonded in place. Then the hole in the skin is replaced and repaired. If the problem is extensive, free may be all it's worth. I had thought that those boats were mainly just a big hunk of foam carved to shape and covered with glass? If so there isn't anything to break loose other then the fiberglass skin. If this is how these boats were built, I've worked on similar boats and to be honest all you can do is drill a bunch of holes and vacuum. or drill a bunch of holes and wait for the water to run out. Whether the foam is saturated or has separated from the skin and full of water it doesn't make much difference if the problem has existed for any length of time as the water is almost everywhere and about all you can do is get as much water as possible out and seal the holes. The guy could drill holes at say 1 ft. intervals all over the bottom of the boat. Some will drain water and some (hopefully) won't. He may find that the water is confined to a smallish area and then remove the skin and probably cut out any water soaked foam and re-skin. Or he may find water everywhere and just drain as best as he can and seal up the holes. Cheers, John D. Slocomb (jdslocombatgmail) |
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