Awl --

I'm thinking of a drill that could drill holes in metal doorbucks that are
also lined with concrete.
Is there perhaps a way to sharpen/grind a masonry bit so that it could
also get through 16 ga steel, mebbe some wood?

Iny other ideas on drilling concrete-filled doorbucks?

--
EA

"Existential Angst" fired this volley in
:

I'm thinking of a drill that could drill holes in metal doorbucks that
are also lined with concrete.
Is there perhaps a way to sharpen/grind a masonry bit so that it
could
also get through 16 ga steel, mebbe some wood?

Of course you can, but why not just take some care with a common twist
drill, and not drill too far past the buck? Use a stop if you're not good
at stopping it by hand.

It'll take a lot less work to tweak the edge on a HSS bit after you buzz
it a little on concrete, than it will to put the proper edge on a masonry
bit, which still won't cut all that well in steel. An as-ground masonry
bit will go through wood just fine, although its flutes will load up
fast.

LLoyd

In article , Existential Angst
wrote:

Awl --

I'm thinking of a drill that could drill holes in metal doorbucks that are
also lined with concrete.
Is there perhaps a way to sharpen/grind a masonry bit so that it could
also get through 16 ga steel, mebbe some wood?

Iny other ideas on drilling concrete-filled doorbucks?

You should probably forget this idea. It's easier to pull the ATM out
of the wall with a decent 3/4-ton and some chain. Odds are that if you
get four blocks away without getting popped, you get to keep all the
$20s.

-Frank

--
Here's some of my work:
http://www.franksknives.com

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I'm thinking of a drill that could drill holes in metal doorbucks that are
also lined with concrete.
Is there perhaps a way to sharpen/grind a masonry bit so that it could
also get through 16 ga steel, mebbe some wood?

Iny other ideas on drilling concrete-filled doorbucks?

I run into this fairly often in commercial buildings. Metal jamb, filled
with mortar, brick, steel plate, more brick. What a pain. Since I am
getting paid for it I just include the cost of a couple HSS bits in the job
for every door and they go in my dull bits pile which sometimes actually get
sharpened instead of tossed.

There was a company selling carbide tipped bits for cutting "everything" at
some of the home improvement and trade shows about 13-15 years ago. I
bought a set and they worked ok on steel in a drill press where I could put
a lot of pressure on them, but in a hand drill they were just about as
worthless as a masonry bit for drilling steel. I wish I still had that baby
drill press. It had a lot less wobble and runout than the floor model I
have now.

On Wed, 27 Jan 2010 07:59:17 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I'm thinking of a drill that could drill holes in metal doorbucks that are
also lined with concrete.
Is there perhaps a way to sharpen/grind a masonry bit so that it could
also get through 16 ga steel, mebbe some wood?

Iny other ideas on drilling concrete-filled doorbucks?

I run into this fairly often in commercial buildings. Metal jamb, filled
with mortar, brick, steel plate, more brick. What a pain. Since I am
getting paid for it I just include the cost of a couple HSS bits in the job
for every door and they go in my dull bits pile which sometimes actually get
sharpened instead of tossed.

There was a company selling carbide tipped bits for cutting "everything" at
some of the home improvement and trade shows about 13-15 years ago. I
bought a set and they worked ok on steel in a drill press where I could put
a lot of pressure on them, but in a hand drill they were just about as
worthless as a masonry bit for drilling steel. I wish I still had that baby
drill press. It had a lot less wobble and runout than the floor model I
have now.


Was it a Relton Groo-V bit? I recently got one for use in my
Milwaukee hammer drill. I was setting 1/2" anchors in rock for some
glass shelves. This bit went in easier than the old 3/16" masonry bit
I used to mark the locations, even in the hard rock (a lot of the rock
was a very soft limestone widely used around here, the hard stuff had
a lot of small shell fossils in it). It claims to also be for hard
metal, tile, etc. I may try it on some steel and see how it does.

Pete Keillor

Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

I'm thinking of a drill that could drill holes in metal doorbucks that are
also lined with concrete.
Is there perhaps a way to sharpen/grind a masonry bit so that it could
also get through 16 ga steel, mebbe some wood?

Iny other ideas on drilling concrete-filled doorbucks?




These are supposed to be the ducks nuts of drill bits .
Never tried them myself but have seen demos where they drill through
wood steel and masonry stacked onto of each other.

http://www.artu.com/drillbits.htm

--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."

"Kevin(Bluey)" wrote in message
news
Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

I'm thinking of a drill that could drill holes in metal doorbucks that
are also lined with concrete.
Is there perhaps a way to sharpen/grind a masonry bit so that it could
also get through 16 ga steel, mebbe some wood?

Iny other ideas on drilling concrete-filled doorbucks?




These are supposed to be the ducks nuts of drill bits .
Never tried them myself but have seen demos where they drill through wood
steel and masonry stacked onto of each other.

http://www.artu.com/drillbits.htm

Interesting.

But, ultimately, these look like better-made, better sharpened masonary
bits, with more versatile flutes.
And, as per Steve's very nice videos, it seems this masonary geometry is
serviceable (if not ideal) for metal/wood.

Artus made some reference to their bit grinding material away, instead of
cutting.... hmmmm.....

Mebbe it's time to experiment with the masonary bits that I have, fool
around with a green wheel and a drill press.
I will fool around, and keep Lloyd's comments in mind, that mebbe the best
compromise is sep. twist and masonary drills.

Also, there is all kinds of quality of carbide. I have used brazed carbide
lathe tools that were inferior to good HSS -- near useless, in fact. Maybe
the Artus achieves it's versatility not by very novel design but by using
good tough carbide.
--
EA




--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."

A hardware store here (USA) had the ARTU drills on display several years
ago, and I took a pamphlet to read.
At the time, they stated that their drills were not to be used for steel,
only non-ferrous metals.
So, I didn't buy any of them, but if not for the steel exception, I would
have.

It's likely that they have changed them, but I wonder if any old stock
drills would be distinguishable from the newer drills.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Kevin(Bluey)" wrote in message
news

These are supposed to be the ducks nuts of drill bits .
Never tried them myself but have seen demos where they drill through wood
steel and masonry stacked onto of each other.

http://www.artu.com/drillbits.htm

--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."