The other day, a guy asked me how to remove stuck bolts. It was a
general question; he didn't have a specific problem at that moment.
As I started to answer him, I kept having to backtrack, explaining
that a particular situation begets a particular range of solutions.

That got me to thinking about how pervasive this problem is to modern
man and how uncomfortable I am when I have to go about it.

So, I put up a webpage that focuses on simply defining the problem:

http://www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html

Right now I am in the process of reviving an old Onan 6.5KW RV-style
generator set and it has numerous stuck bolts. Some of them are steel
bolts, about 1/4-20 in size, stuck into aluminum. There is lots of rust.
In my googling around I have found references to "Bolt Extractor
Sockets".
Have any of you folks tried them and what have your experiences been?

And, what is YOUR favorite "stuck bolt" removal process?

Pete Stanaitis

"spaco" wrote in message
.. .
The other day, a guy asked me how to remove stuck bolts. It was a general
question; he didn't have a specific problem at that moment.
As I started to answer him, I kept having to backtrack, explaining that
a particular situation begets a particular range of solutions.

That got me to thinking about how pervasive this problem is to modern man
and how uncomfortable I am when I have to go about it.

So, I put up a webpage that focuses on simply defining the problem:

http://www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html

Right now I am in the process of reviving an old Onan 6.5KW RV-style
generator set and it has numerous stuck bolts. Some of them are steel
bolts, about 1/4-20 in size, stuck into aluminum. There is lots of rust.
In my googling around I have found references to "Bolt Extractor
Sockets".
Have any of you folks tried them and what have your experiences been?

And, what is YOUR favorite "stuck bolt" removal process?

Pete Stanaitis

PB Blaster. If that don't work, go to plan B. Let it sit for 24 hours, and
apply more than once if it looks like it evaporated off.

Steve

Steve B wrote:

"spaco" wrote in message
.. .
The other day, a guy asked me how to remove stuck bolts. It was a general
question; he didn't have a specific problem at that moment.
As I started to answer him, I kept having to backtrack, explaining that
a particular situation begets a particular range of solutions.

That got me to thinking about how pervasive this problem is to modern man
and how uncomfortable I am when I have to go about it.

So, I put up a webpage that focuses on simply defining the problem:

http://www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html

Right now I am in the process of reviving an old Onan 6.5KW RV-style
generator set and it has numerous stuck bolts. Some of them are steel
bolts, about 1/4-20 in size, stuck into aluminum. There is lots of rust.
In my googling around I have found references to "Bolt Extractor
Sockets".
Have any of you folks tried them and what have your experiences been?

And, what is YOUR favorite "stuck bolt" removal process?

Pete Stanaitis

PB Blaster. If that don't work, go to plan B. Let it sit for 24 hours, and
apply more than once if it looks like it evaporated off.

Steve

Kroil, soak time and heat.

"Steve B" wrote in message
...

"spaco" wrote in message
.. .
The other day, a guy asked me how to remove stuck bolts. It was a
general question; he didn't have a specific problem at that moment.
As I started to answer him, I kept having to backtrack, explaining that
a particular situation begets a particular range of solutions.

That got me to thinking about how pervasive this problem is to modern man
and how uncomfortable I am when I have to go about it.

So, I put up a webpage that focuses on simply defining the problem:

http://www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html

Right now I am in the process of reviving an old Onan 6.5KW RV-style
generator set and it has numerous stuck bolts. Some of them are steel
bolts, about 1/4-20 in size, stuck into aluminum. There is lots of rust.
In my googling around I have found references to "Bolt Extractor
Sockets".
Have any of you folks tried them and what have your experiences been?

And, what is YOUR favorite "stuck bolt" removal process?

Pete Stanaitis

PB Blaster. If that don't work, go to plan B. Let it sit for 24 hours,
and apply more than once if it looks like it evaporated off.

Steve

I am way late in this thread but I thought this was an interesting forum
post release agents:

http://www.ott-motorcycles.ca/index.php?topic=42258.0

3rd post down: The acetone+ATF mixture has everything beat including the
price.

--
Michael Koblic
Campbell River, BC

On Sat, 26 Dec 2009 22:59:08 -0800, the infamous "Michael Koblic"
scrawled the following:


"Steve B" wrote in message
...

"spaco" wrote in message
.. .
The other day, a guy asked me how to remove stuck bolts. It was a
general question; he didn't have a specific problem at that moment.
As I started to answer him, I kept having to backtrack, explaining that
a particular situation begets a particular range of solutions.

That got me to thinking about how pervasive this problem is to modern man
and how uncomfortable I am when I have to go about it.

So, I put up a webpage that focuses on simply defining the problem:

http://www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html

Right now I am in the process of reviving an old Onan 6.5KW RV-style
generator set and it has numerous stuck bolts. Some of them are steel
bolts, about 1/4-20 in size, stuck into aluminum. There is lots of rust.
In my googling around I have found references to "Bolt Extractor
Sockets".
Have any of you folks tried them and what have your experiences been?

And, what is YOUR favorite "stuck bolt" removal process?

Pete Stanaitis

PB Blaster. If that don't work, go to plan B. Let it sit for 24 hours,
and apply more than once if it looks like it evaporated off.

Steve

I am way late in this thread but I thought this was an interesting forum
post release agents:

http://www.ott-motorcycles.ca/index.php?topic=42258.0

3rd post down: The acetone+ATF mixture has everything beat including the
price.

Try Ed's Red, Mikey. It's that and more.
http://www.handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=9

--
"I believe that sex is one of the most beautiful, natural, wholesome things
that money can buy." --Tom Clancy

On Dec 26, 11:59*pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
"Steve B" wrote in message

...





"spaco" wrote in message
. ..
The other day, a guy asked me how to remove stuck bolts. *It was a
general question; he didn't have a specific problem at that moment.
* As I started to answer him, I kept having to backtrack, explaining that
a particular situation begets a particular range of solutions.

That got me to thinking about how pervasive this problem is to modern man
and how uncomfortable I am when I have to go about it.

So, I put up a webpage that focuses on simply defining the problem:

http://www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html

Right now I am in the process of reviving an old Onan 6.5KW RV-style
generator set and it has numerous stuck bolts. *Some of them are steel
bolts, about 1/4-20 in size, stuck into aluminum. *There is lots of rust.
* In my googling around I have found references to "Bolt Extractor
Sockets".
* Have any of you folks tried them and what have your experiences been?

And, what is YOUR favorite "stuck bolt" removal process?

Pete Stanaitis

PB Blaster. *If that don't work, go to plan B. *Let it sit for 24 hours,
and apply more than once if it looks like it evaporated off.

Steve

I am way late in this thread but I thought this was an interesting forum
post release agents:

http://www.ott-motorcycles.ca/index.php?topic=42258.0

3rd post down: The acetone+ATF mixture has everything beat including the
price.

--
Michael Koblic
Campbell River, BC- Hide quoted text -

Last problem I had was removing a tapered round barrel from a 50-year-
old Marlin 39. Nothing worked, so was going to use Kroil. None to be
found in the house, I knew I had gotten some, though. So mixed up
acetone/ATF 50/50 and soaked the thing for 4 days or so, wasn't in a
hurry. Put the barrel vise back on, put it in the 20 ton press to
hold it, put the receiver vise on it with the filler and pads and
smacked it with the deadblow, came right off. Was 50 years worth of .
22 gunk in the square threads. Found the can of Kroil a couple of
days later.

My usual stuff is LPS 1, but it's getting pretty steep, last can I
bought was $12. I first used it on some rusty bumper bolts, the truck
had come from Wisconsin and had been in the salty slop there for
several years. I could chin myself on my breaker bar, even with a
cheater pipe. Shot the nuts and washers with LPS 1 and let it sit
overnight. It had spread into a ring on the other side of the bumper
about 4" in diameter. After that, the nuts came off like they were
new, just used the regular ratchet wrench. Has been my first choice
of penetrant since. Was out of it for the job above, though.

Usually a touch of a propane torch followed by a rap with a hammer and
a shot of LPS 1 gets things moving, repeated if needed.

Stan

On Dec 19, 10:06*am, spaco wrote:
The other day, a guy asked me how to remove stuck bolts. *It was a
general question; he didn't have a specific problem at that moment.
* *As I started to answer him, I kept having to backtrack, explaining
that *a particular situation begets a particular range of solutions.

That got me to thinking about how pervasive this problem is to modern
man and how uncomfortable I am when I have to go about it.

So, I put up a webpage that focuses on simply defining the problem:

http://www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html

Right now I am in the process of reviving an old Onan 6.5KW RV-style
generator set and it has numerous stuck bolts. *Some of them are steel
bolts, about 1/4-20 in size, stuck into aluminum. *There is lots of rust.

spaco wrote:
The other day, a guy asked me how to remove stuck bolts. It was a
general question; he didn't have a specific problem at that moment.
As I started to answer him, I kept having to backtrack, explaining
that a particular situation begets a particular range of solutions.

That got me to thinking about how pervasive this problem is to modern
man and how uncomfortable I am when I have to go about it.

So, I put up a webpage that focuses on simply defining the problem:

http://www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html

Right now I am in the process of reviving an old Onan 6.5KW RV-style
generator set and it has numerous stuck bolts. Some of them are steel
bolts, about 1/4-20 in size, stuck into aluminum. There is lots of rust.
In my googling around I have found references to "Bolt Extractor
Sockets".
Have any of you folks tried them and what have your experiences been?

And, what is YOUR favorite "stuck bolt" removal process?

Pete Stanaitis

I start with a good fitting tool appropriate to the fastener.

Then first try is with some PBlaster.
If nothing then I use a punch the size of the bolt shank centered on the
head to shock straight down through the shank.
Then I apply some heat and stick a cheap candle at the joint. This
usually will wick down through the threads and help.
If none of the above work and the shank will be above the surface once
the parts are separated I will grind the head flat. Then drill through
the head and take it apart. Then remove the rest using HEAT to the shank.

Usually some lube and a couple hits breaks them free.
In the event its a steel item in aluminum I'll use some alum and soak it
to eat out the steel.

I have a couple complete sets of the Irwin Bolt-Out sockets. One of the
best tools I have for a specific use.

--
Steve W.

On Dec 19, 10:06*am, spaco wrote:
The other day, a guy asked me how to remove stuck bolts. *It was a
general question; he didn't have a specific problem at that moment.
* *As I started to answer him, I kept having to backtrack, explaining
that *a particular situation begets a particular range of solutions.

That got me to thinking about how pervasive this problem is to modern
man and how uncomfortable I am when I have to go about it.

So, I put up a webpage that focuses on simply defining the problem:

http://www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html

Right now I am in the process of reviving an old Onan 6.5KW RV-style
generator set and it has numerous stuck bolts. *Some of them are steel
bolts, about 1/4-20 in size, stuck into aluminum. *There is lots of rust.

Thanks for all your input.
I learned several methods that I hadn't tried before.
One thing I could still use help with is actually getting the hole in
the exact center when drilling out a fastener. The @##$$$%^%^^^ bolt
never seems to be in a decent position to get straight at it. I center
punch as best I can, then drill undersize so I have room to correct, but
I'm never sure exactly where the center is until its pretty late in
the game. I sure wish that drill motors had X and Y levels on them!

I added your comments to the webpage that I put up yesterday or so,
http://www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html

Thanks again,
Pete Stanaitis
----------------

For getting a drill centered on a section of a bolt that's a bit higher than
the surrounding metal, one could make up a set of drill bushings on a lathe,
that would center a pilot drill.
The bushings should get the drill started in the center, but won't help a
lot with axial pitch.
Not so simple when the bolt breaks off flush, though.

Managing a Dremel-type tool can be easier than trying to use a moderately
large drill motor to get a center start on a broken fastener.

Having a magnetic base drill for steel/iron base material would definitely
be helpful with keeping the drill on the axial center.
Mag base drills are generally large and expensive, but the recent shop-built
magnetic chucks made with high strength hard drive magnets shows that it may
be possible to make a smaller version for pilot drilling broken fasteners.

Another tool that would help get a drill centered and keep the drill on the
axial center would be a Cole drill. The foot/base that comes with the Cole
allows for easy attachment to an adjacent fastener hole (head surface on a
vehicle engine block, for example).
Again, this example isn't very compact, but an inspired HSM could make some
brackets to support a spindle and chuck, that would hold a drill
perpendicular to a surface.

I remember seeing a drill motor with bubble vials on it a number of years
ago, I don't remember the brand, or how long ago it was.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"spaco" wrote in message
...
Thanks for all your input.
I learned several methods that I hadn't tried before.
One thing I could still use help with is actually getting the hole in the
exact center when drilling out a fastener. The @##$$$%^%^^^ bolt never
seems to be in a decent position to get straight at it. I center punch as
best I can, then drill undersize so I have room to correct, but I'm never
sure exactly where the center is until its pretty late in the game. I
sure wish that drill motors had X and Y levels on them!

I added your comments to the webpage that I put up yesterday or so,
http://www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html

Thanks again,
Pete Stanaitis
----------------

Drill motors are made with bubbles, but bubbles are easily added with
double-stick tape (and shims if needed) to other drill motors.

A carbide burr in a dremel-type (die grinder for the well equipped
folks) tool is good for making a starting hole (and grinding out broken
drills/extractors/taps, if need be - though it goes faster if you don't
have to deal with those hard obstructions). Roto-zip tile cutters are a
convenient hardware store source for carbide burrs, and they side-cut
enough that you won't likely get that stuck if you manage to break it
off in the hole.

The "candle wax trick" was lauded at anther place I frequent dealing
with old machinery. I haven't tried it much yet. In thinking about it,
it also offers the ability to do something about fasteners you may not
plan to take out now, but which may not have been put in with anti-size
- fill 'em up with wax now, and at least they won't be full of water and
rusting (more) between now and when you get to them.

As for putting things back in, antiseize or loc-tite (depending on the
fastener) will pay large dividends the next time you need to take it
apart. Guy I sold my dead chevy to (for parts) was amazed when he took
the springs (I'd replaced a decade or so earlier) off, since I had put
them in with anti-sieze and silicone grease. Came right apart, no fuss.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

On Dec 20, 11:17*pm, spaco wrote:
Thanks for all your input.
I learned several methods that I hadn't tried before.
One thing I could still use help with is actually getting the hole in
the exact center when drilling out a fastener. *The @##$$$%^%^^^ bolt
never seems to be in a decent position to get straight at it. *I center
punch as best I can, then drill undersize so I have room to correct, but
* I'm never sure exactly where the center is until its pretty late in
the game. *I sure wish that drill motors had X and Y levels on them!

* *I added your comments to the webpage that I *put up yesterday or so,
*http://www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html

Thanks again,
Pete Stanaitis
----------------

That is truly a problem, especially if the screw is broken off right
at the surface. The threads make it awfully tough to tell where the
true center is. And even if you locate it exactly, it's not easy to
punch and start a drill there.

If the fastener is broken so that threads are showing above the hole
or in it, things are easier.

I made up some screws drilled in the lathe right down their centers.
If your screw is broken down in the hole, screw in one of your drilled
scrrews as a guide for your drill. If the screw is broken above the
surface, screw a long nut such as a coupling nut on it, then screw a
drilled screw into the coupling nut.

John Martin

John Martin wrote:

That is truly a problem, especially if the screw is broken off right
at the surface. The threads make it awfully tough to tell where the
true center is. And even if you locate it exactly, it's not easy to
punch and start a drill there.

When you are lucky, you can look at other features and determine a bolt pattern, spacing
from another hole, measure the mating item, ect.

May designers that use dimensions like 1.37 burn in hell.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

"spaco" wrote in message
snip
And, what is YOUR favorite "stuck bolt" removal process?
Pete Stanaitis

A friend of mine is a pilot for the airlines and he tells me
"The aircraft mechanics have some stuff they call "Mouse milk" that they swear
by, but despite requests from me they have never gave me any, so I don't know
what it is."
I DAGS and the first hit was http://www.mousemilk.com/
Does anybody have any experience with this stuff?
Art

On Mon, 28 Dec 2009 12:53:31 -0800, "Artemus"
wrote:


"spaco" wrote in message
snip
And, what is YOUR favorite "stuck bolt" removal process?
Pete Stanaitis

A friend of mine is a pilot for the airlines and he tells me
"The aircraft mechanics have some stuff they call "Mouse milk" that they swear
by, but despite requests from me they have never gave me any, so I don't know
what it is."
I DAGS and the first hit was http://www.mousemilk.com/
Does anybody have any experience with this stuff?
Art




It works.

spaco wrote:
The other day, a guy asked me how to remove stuck bolts. It was a
general question; he didn't have a specific problem at that moment.
As I started to answer him, I kept having to backtrack, explaining
that a particular situation begets a particular range of solutions.

That got me to thinking about how pervasive this problem is to modern
man and how uncomfortable I am when I have to go about it.

So, I put up a webpage that focuses on simply defining the problem:

http://www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html

Right now I am in the process of reviving an old Onan 6.5KW RV-style
generator set and it has numerous stuck bolts. Some of them are steel
bolts, about 1/4-20 in size, stuck into aluminum. There is lots of rust.
In my googling around I have found references to "Bolt Extractor
Sockets".
Have any of you folks tried them and what have your experiences been?

And, what is YOUR favorite "stuck bolt" removal process?

Pete Stanaitis

No one has mentioned my favorite for capscrews with twisted off heads.
If the stub is at all proud of the surfcae, set a new grade 8 nut over
it, start on the threads if any. Then MIG, TIG or braze the inside of
that nut onto the stubb. Presumably you have applied penetrant before
reaching this point. Let it cool (or wait a bit then hit it with some
ice or refrigerant spray). Remove with hand tools on the nut.