I borrowed a milwaki 1.5 inch hammer drill from work. I got a 1 inch
drill bit stuck in the foundation cement of my house. I was trying to
bust out this area so a piece of conduit would be flush with the wall
to go up the outside of the wall into my attic.

I have tried everything. One thing I could not figure out. How do you
get the drill to go in reverse? DO these type of drills even have a
reverse? I appreciate your help!

stryped fired this volley in news:93ace626-9669-
:

DO these type of drills even have a
reverse? I appreciate your help!


Did you ever consider just turning the whole rig counter-clockwise by
hand?

No, probably not. Just get a torch and cut the bit off flush with the
concrete.

No! Never mind. That won't work; you'll burn down your house.

LLoyd

On Nov 9, 12:03 pm, stryped wrote:
I borrowed a milwaki 1.5 inch hammer drill from work. I got a 1 inch
drill bit stuck in the foundation cement of my house. I was trying to
bust out this area so a piece of conduit would be flush with the wall
to go up the outside of the wall into my attic.

I have tried everything. One thing I could not figure out. How do you
get the drill to go in reverse? DO these type of drills even have a
reverse? I appreciate your help!

Never known this to happen, anywhere - how did you manage to do it?
And have you ever used a hammer drill before?
They dont have a reverse - no one has ever got a bit stuck, so it
hasn't been needed.........
Andrew VK3BFA.

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 01:05:07 -0800 (PST), Andrew VK3BFA
wrote:

On Nov 9, 12:03 pm, stryped wrote:
I borrowed a milwaki 1.5 inch hammer drill from work. I got a 1 inch
drill bit stuck in the foundation cement of my house. I was trying to
bust out this area so a piece of conduit would be flush with the wall
to go up the outside of the wall into my attic.

I have tried everything. One thing I could not figure out. How do you
get the drill to go in reverse? DO these type of drills even have a
reverse? I appreciate your help!

Never known this to happen, anywhere - how did you manage to do it?
And have you ever used a hammer drill before?
They dont have a reverse - no one has ever got a bit stuck, so it
hasn't been needed.........
Andrew VK3BFA.


chuckle.....lol

Both of my Hiltis have reverse..both are hammer drills...both have had
reversed MANY times to get that bit unstuck

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. Just my $0.02
worth."

On Nov 9, 6:44*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 01:05:07 -0800 (PST), Andrew VK3BFA





wrote:
On Nov 9, 12:03 pm, stryped wrote:
I borrowed a milwaki 1.5 inch hammer drill from work. I got a 1 inch
drill bit stuck in the foundation cement of my house. I was trying to
bust out this area so a piece of conduit would be flush with the wall
to go up the outside of the wall into my attic.

I have tried everything. One thing I could not figure out. How do you
get the drill to go in reverse? DO these type of drills even have *a
reverse? I appreciate your help!

Never known this to happen, anywhere - how did you manage to do it?
And have you ever used a hammer drill before?
They dont have a reverse - no one has ever got a bit stuck, so it
hasn't been needed.........
Andrew VK3BFA.

chuckle.....lol

Both of my Hiltis have reverse..both are hammer drills...both have had
reversed MANY times to get that bit unstuck

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I swaer I cant find it. There is a switch for hammer, un hammer but
that is it.

On Nov 9, 7:11*am, stryped wrote:
On Nov 9, 6:44*am, Gunner Asch wrote:





On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 01:05:07 -0800 (PST), Andrew VK3BFA

wrote:
On Nov 9, 12:03 pm, stryped wrote:
I borrowed a milwaki 1.5 inch hammer drill from work. I got a 1 inch
drill bit stuck in the foundation cement of my house. I was trying to
bust out this area so a piece of conduit would be flush with the wall
to go up the outside of the wall into my attic.

I have tried everything. One thing I could not figure out. How do you
get the drill to go in reverse? DO these type of drills even have *a
reverse? I appreciate your help!

Never known this to happen, anywhere - how did you manage to do it?
And have you ever used a hammer drill before?
They dont have a reverse - no one has ever got a bit stuck, so it
hasn't been needed.........
Andrew VK3BFA.

chuckle.....lol

Both of my Hiltis have reverse..both are hammer drills...both have had
reversed MANY times to get that bit unstuck

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I swaer I cant find it. There is a switch for hammer, un hammer but
that is it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is a Milwalki cat no 5347 and a serial number 688A 19515 0060. I
looked for a product manual online that might tell me how to get it in
reverse but have had no luck as of yet. I really appreciate your help!

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 05:11:40 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

On Nov 9, 6:44*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 01:05:07 -0800 (PST), Andrew VK3BFA





wrote:
On Nov 9, 12:03 pm, stryped wrote:
I borrowed a milwaki 1.5 inch hammer drill from work. I got a 1 inch
drill bit stuck in the foundation cement of my house. I was trying to
bust out this area so a piece of conduit would be flush with the wall
to go up the outside of the wall into my attic.

I have tried everything. One thing I could not figure out. How do you
get the drill to go in reverse? DO these type of drills even have *a
reverse? I appreciate your help!

Never known this to happen, anywhere - how did you manage to do it?
And have you ever used a hammer drill before?
They dont have a reverse - no one has ever got a bit stuck, so it
hasn't been needed.........
Andrew VK3BFA.

chuckle.....lol

Both of my Hiltis have reverse..both are hammer drills...both have had
reversed MANY times to get that bit unstuck

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I swaer I cant find it. There is a switch for hammer, un hammer but
that is it.

Then grab on the end of it with a small pipe wrench and turn it
backwards and pull at the same time. Once it starts moving...attach it
to the drill again and fire the bitch up and pull it out.

You will probably need to file gently..the jaw marks on the drill
shank..but it works

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. Just my $0.02
worth."

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 05:25:42 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

Both of my Hiltis have reverse..both are hammer drills...both have had
reversed MANY times to get that bit unstuck

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I swaer I cant find it. There is a switch for hammer, un hammer but
that is it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is a Milwalki cat no 5347 and a serial number 688A 19515 0060. I
looked for a product manual online that might tell me how to get it in
reverse but have had no luck as of yet. I really appreciate your help!

http://books.google.com/books?id=OOMDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=milwauke e++5347+manual&source=bl&ots=MzqGBzDCj5&sig=QzEItU O5Sya9Oj-nK-EvYauD22w&hl=en&ei=Dmb4SvfUF4yGswOsyeW0CQ&sa=X&oi= book_result&ct=result&resnum=8&ved=0CB8Q6AEwBw#v=o nepage&q=&f=false

"Like the other Magnums, the Forward/Reverse lever above the trigger is
too small, but not nearly as difficult as the trigger lock button"

Might want to check above the trigger.....shrug

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. Just my $0.02
worth."

On Nov 9, 1:01*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 05:25:42 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:





Both of my Hiltis have reverse..both are hammer drills...both have had
reversed MANY times to get that bit unstuck

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I swaer I cant find it. There is a switch for hammer, un hammer but
that is it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is a Milwalki cat no 5347 and a serial number 688A 19515 0060. I
looked for a product manual online that might tell me how to get it in
reverse but have had no luck as of yet. I really appreciate your help!

http://books.google.com/books?id=OOMDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=mil...

"Like the other Magnums, the Forward/Reverse lever above the trigger is
too small, but not nearly as difficult as the trigger lock button"

Might want to check above the trigger.....shrug

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I will check again but my drill does not look like that one. The one I
have does not resemble a standard drill.

On Nov 9, 2:31*pm, stryped wrote:
On Nov 9, 1:01*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:





On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 05:25:42 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

Both of my Hiltis have reverse..both are hammer drills...both have had
reversed MANY times to get that bit unstuck

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I swaer I cant find it. There is a switch for hammer, un hammer but
that is it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is a Milwalki cat no 5347 and a serial number 688A 19515 0060. I
looked for a product manual online that might tell me how to get it in
reverse but have had no luck as of yet. I really appreciate your help!

http://books.google.com/books?id=OOMDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=mil...

"Like the other Magnums, the Forward/Reverse lever above the trigger is
too small, but not nearly as difficult as the trigger lock button"

Might want to check above the trigger.....shrug

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I will check again but my drill does not look like that one. The one I
have does not resemble a standard drill.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is the drill I have: http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Dia...54-24-0227.pdf

There is no button above the trigger or anywhere else that I can find.

On Nov 9, 2:48*pm, stryped wrote:
On Nov 9, 2:31*pm, stryped wrote:





On Nov 9, 1:01*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 05:25:42 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

Both of my Hiltis have reverse..both are hammer drills...both have had
reversed MANY times to get that bit unstuck

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I swaer I cant find it. There is a switch for hammer, un hammer but
that is it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is a Milwalki cat no 5347 and a serial number 688A 19515 0060. I
looked for a product manual online that might tell me how to get it in
reverse but have had no luck as of yet. I really appreciate your help!

http://books.google.com/books?id=OOMDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=mil...

"Like the other Magnums, the Forward/Reverse lever above the trigger is
too small, but not nearly as difficult as the trigger lock button"

Might want to check above the trigger.....shrug

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I will check again but my drill does not look like that one. The one I
have does not resemble a standard drill.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is the drill I have:http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Dia...54-24-0227.pdf

There is no button above the trigger or anywhere else that I can find.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Here is the product manual for the drill I have. I see no mention of a
reverse: http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Dia...58-12-2504.pdf

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 13:32:36 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

On Nov 9, 2:48*pm, stryped wrote:
On Nov 9, 2:31*pm, stryped wrote:





On Nov 9, 1:01*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 05:25:42 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

Both of my Hiltis have reverse..both are hammer drills...both have had
reversed MANY times to get that bit unstuck

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I swaer I cant find it. There is a switch for hammer, un hammer but
that is it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is a Milwalki cat no 5347 and a serial number 688A 19515 0060. I
looked for a product manual online that might tell me how to get it in
reverse but have had no luck as of yet. I really appreciate your help!

http://books.google.com/books?id=OOMDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=mil...

"Like the other Magnums, the Forward/Reverse lever above the trigger is
too small, but not nearly as difficult as the trigger lock button"

Might want to check above the trigger.....shrug

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I will check again but my drill does not look like that one. The one I
have does not resemble a standard drill.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is the drill I have:http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Dia...54-24-0227.pdf

There is no button above the trigger or anywhere else that I can find.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Here is the product manual for the drill I have. I see no mention of a
reverse: http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Dia...58-12-2504.pdf

The references you provide aren't for a "hammer-drill" it is for a
"rotary-hammer" a different sort of best. You should be using a chisel
sort of bit, not a drill. Think "small electric jackhammer" and you
will be closer to the actual tool.


Cheers,

John B.
(johnbslocomatgmaildotcom)

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 12:48:00 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

On Nov 9, 2:31*pm, stryped wrote:
On Nov 9, 1:01*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:





On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 05:25:42 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

Both of my Hiltis have reverse..both are hammer drills...both have had
reversed MANY times to get that bit unstuck

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I swaer I cant find it. There is a switch for hammer, un hammer but
that is it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is a Milwalki cat no 5347 and a serial number 688A 19515 0060. I
looked for a product manual online that might tell me how to get it in
reverse but have had no luck as of yet. I really appreciate your help!

http://books.google.com/books?id=OOMDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=mil...

"Like the other Magnums, the Forward/Reverse lever above the trigger is
too small, but not nearly as difficult as the trigger lock button"

Might want to check above the trigger.....shrug

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I will check again but my drill does not look like that one. The one I
have does not resemble a standard drill.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is the drill I have: http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Dia...54-24-0227.pdf

There is no button above the trigger or anywhere else that I can find.


I have a slightly older version of this drill. No reverse.

So as I said...use a pipe wrench, or a 7/16 socket and back the drill
bit itself in reverse a bit and slowly pull it out. If you can get it to
turn...hook the drill back up to it, and while PULLING on it..hit the go
switch and work it out.

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. Just my $0.02
worth."

On Tue, 10 Nov 2009 07:29:47 +0700, John
wrote:

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 13:32:36 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

On Nov 9, 2:48*pm, stryped wrote:
On Nov 9, 2:31*pm, stryped wrote:





On Nov 9, 1:01*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 05:25:42 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

Both of my Hiltis have reverse..both are hammer drills...both have had
reversed MANY times to get that bit unstuck

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I swaer I cant find it. There is a switch for hammer, un hammer but
that is it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is a Milwalki cat no 5347 and a serial number 688A 19515 0060. I
looked for a product manual online that might tell me how to get it in
reverse but have had no luck as of yet. I really appreciate your help!

http://books.google.com/books?id=OOMDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=mil...

"Like the other Magnums, the Forward/Reverse lever above the trigger is
too small, but not nearly as difficult as the trigger lock button"

Might want to check above the trigger.....shrug

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I will check again but my drill does not look like that one. The one I
have does not resemble a standard drill.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is the drill I have:http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Dia...54-24-0227.pdf

There is no button above the trigger or anywhere else that I can find.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Here is the product manual for the drill I have. I see no mention of a
reverse: http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Dia...58-12-2504.pdf

The references you provide aren't for a "hammer-drill" it is for a
"rotary-hammer" a different sort of best. You should be using a chisel
sort of bit, not a drill. Think "small electric jackhammer" and you
will be closer to the actual tool.


Cheers,

John B.
(johnbslocomatgmaildotcom)


Actually..it IS a hammer drill. An "early" version. I have several B&D
"electric jack hammers" and they work far differently than the Milwaukee
does. And they do use "star" drills

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. Just my $0.02
worth."

On Nov 9, 6:56*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 12:48:00 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:





On Nov 9, 2:31*pm, stryped wrote:
On Nov 9, 1:01*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 05:25:42 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

Both of my Hiltis have reverse..both are hammer drills...both have had
reversed MANY times to get that bit unstuck

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I swaer I cant find it. There is a switch for hammer, un hammer but
that is it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is a Milwalki cat no 5347 and a serial number 688A 19515 0060. I
looked for a product manual online that might tell me how to get it in
reverse but have had no luck as of yet. I really appreciate your help!

http://books.google.com/books?id=OOMDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=mil...

"Like the other Magnums, the Forward/Reverse lever above the trigger is
too small, but not nearly as difficult as the trigger lock button"

Might want to check above the trigger.....shrug

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I will check again but my drill does not look like that one. The one I
have does not resemble a standard drill.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is the drill I have:http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Dia...54-24-0227.pdf

There is no button above the trigger or anywhere else that I can find.

I have a slightly older version of this drill. No reverse.

So as I said...use a pipe wrench, or a 7/16 socket and back the drill
bit itself in reverse a bit and slowly pull it out. If you can get it to
turn...hook the drill back up to it, and while PULLING on it..hit the go
switch and work it out.

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So a 7/16 socket will fit the toothed end of the bit? I dont have a
pipe wrench.

One thing I noticed is the clutch is slipping alot which may be part
of the problem. Is the clutch adjustable?

By the way, this is a rotary hammer.

On Tue, 10 Nov 2009 05:12:10 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

On Nov 9, 6:56*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 12:48:00 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:





On Nov 9, 2:31*pm, stryped wrote:
On Nov 9, 1:01*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 05:25:42 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

Both of my Hiltis have reverse..both are hammer drills...both have had
reversed MANY times to get that bit unstuck

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I swaer I cant find it. There is a switch for hammer, un hammer but
that is it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is a Milwalki cat no 5347 and a serial number 688A 19515 0060. I
looked for a product manual online that might tell me how to get it in
reverse but have had no luck as of yet. I really appreciate your help!

http://books.google.com/books?id=OOMDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=mil...

"Like the other Magnums, the Forward/Reverse lever above the trigger is
too small, but not nearly as difficult as the trigger lock button"

Might want to check above the trigger.....shrug

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I will check again but my drill does not look like that one. The one I
have does not resemble a standard drill.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is the drill I have:http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Dia...54-24-0227.pdf

There is no button above the trigger or anywhere else that I can find.

I have a slightly older version of this drill. No reverse.

So as I said...use a pipe wrench, or a 7/16 socket and back the drill
bit itself in reverse a bit and slowly pull it out. If you can get it to
turn...hook the drill back up to it, and while PULLING on it..hit the go
switch and work it out.

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So a 7/16 socket will fit the toothed end of the bit? I dont have a
pipe wrench.

the end that goes into the drill, is a 7/16 hex, right? As for pipe
wrench..borrow one, or buy a 10"-14" one at Harbor Freight, or even the
biggest pair of Channel Locks you can find.

Everyone needs a pipe wrench, particularly if you are doing a lot of
Stuff around a shop. I suggest buying a cheap 14". Might cost you $7
when they arent on sale.

One thing I noticed is the clutch is slipping alot which may be part
of the problem. Is the clutch adjustable?

By the way, this is a rotary hammer.

The clutch is Replaceable, not adjustable as I recall.

Gunner


DISCLAIMER: The content does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either
my ISP, myself, my company or employer, my friends (if any,) my goldfish or
my neighbour's mad dog; don't quote me on that; don't quote me on anything;
all rights reserved; the post is distribution copyrighted to the extent that
you may distribute the post and all its associated parts freely but you may
not make a profit from it or include the post in commercial publications
without written permission from the Prime Minister of Hutt Province; other
copyright laws for specific posts apply wherever noted or not noted, either
deliberately, negligently, or otherwise; posts are subject to change without
notice; posts are slightly enlarged to show detail; any resemblance to
actual persons, living or dead, is unintentional and purely coincidental;
hand wash only, tumble dry on low heat; do not bend, fold, mutilate, or
spindle; do not pass go; do not collect $200; your mileage may vary; no
substitutions allowed; for a limited time only; the post is void where
prohibited, taxed, or otherwise restricted; the post is provided "as is"
without any warranties expressed or implied; user assumes full liabilities;
not liable for damages due to use or misuse; an equal opportunity abuse
employer; no shoes, no shirt; quantities are limited while supplies last; if
defects are discovered, do not attempt to fix them yourself but return to an
authorised post service centre; caveat emptor; read at your own risk;
parental advisory - explicit words; text may contain material some readers
may find objectionable, parental guidance is advised; not suitable for
children; not suitable for adults; not for human consumption; keep away from
sunlight, pets and small children; limit one-per-family; no money down; no
purchase necessary; to approved purchasers only; facsimiles are acceptable
in South Australia; you need not be present to read this post; some assembly
required; batteries not included; action figures sold separately; no
preservatives added; tools not included; safety goggles may be required
during use; sealed for your protection, do not use if the safety seal is
broken; call before you dig; for external use only; if a rash, redness,
irritation or swelling develops, discontinue use; use only with proper
ventilation; avoid extreme temperatures and store in a cool, dry place; keep
away from open flames, naked flames and old flames; avoid inhaling fumes;
avoid contact with mucous membranes; do not puncture, incinerate, or store
above 60 degrees Centigrade; do not place near flammable or magnetic source;
smoking the post may be hazardous to your health; the best safeguard, second
only to abstinence, is the use of a good laugh; text used on the post is
made from 100% recycled electrons and magnetic particles; no animals were
used to test the hilarity of this post other than Synapse Syndrome; no salt,
MSG, artificial colour or flavour added; may contain traces of replies to
peanuts; if ingested, do not induce vomiting, if symptoms persist, consult
your humourologist; post is ribbed for your pleasure; slippery when wet;
must be 18 to read; possible penalties for early withdrawal; post offer
valid only in participating newsgroups; slightly higher in South Australia;
allow four to six weeks for delivery; damage from hurricane, lightning,
tornado, tsunami, volcanic eruption, earthquake, flood, orgasm, misuse,
self-abuse, neglect, unauthorised repair, damage from improper installation,
broken antenna, marred cabinet, incorrect line voltage, missing or altered
serial numbers, sonic boom vibrations, electromagnetic radiation from
nuclear blasts or other Acts of God are not covered; incidents owing to
aeroplane crash, ship sinking, motor vehicle accidents, leaky roof, broken
glass, falling rocks, mud

The "clutch" that is slipping is keeping you from breaking your
arm. As others have said:

Leave it plugged in.
Use a pipe wrench to turn the bit counterclockwise even a little
bit.
Remove the pipe wrench. (thought I better make that clear)
Hit the switch while holding back on the drill. If the bit will
turn, keep it turning and wiggle the drill mostly backwards to get
it out of the hole. There is usually a magic place where it is
willing to turn, just not go forward or back. Find that place,
keep the bit turning, ease it forward and back to gain enough
clearance for the bit.

You will develop a feel and sense of sound for when the bit is
trying to bind. Back off instantly and keep the bit turning. You
can peck gently at the bind point until you get past the problem
even if it is rebar in the center of hole.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"stryped" wrote in message
...
On Nov 9, 6:56 pm, Gunner Asch
wrote:
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 12:48:00 -0800 (PST), stryped

wrote:





On Nov 9, 2:31 pm, stryped wrote:
On Nov 9, 1:01 pm, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 05:25:42 -0800 (PST), stryped

wrote:

Both of my Hiltis have reverse..both are hammer
drills...both have had
reversed MANY times to get that bit unstuck

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention
than he deserves,
but obviously craves. The most appropriate response,
and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him.
An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to
his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be
ignored. Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I swaer I cant find it. There is a switch for hammer, un
hammer but
that is it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is a Milwalki cat no 5347 and a serial number 688A
19515 0060. I
looked for a product manual online that might tell me how
to get it in
reverse but have had no luck as of yet. I really
appreciate your help!

http://books.google.com/books?id=OOMDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=mil...

"Like the other Magnums, the Forward/Reverse lever above
the trigger is
too small, but not nearly as difficult as the trigger lock
button"

Might want to check above the trigger.....shrug

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than
he deserves,
but obviously craves. The most appropriate response, and
perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. An
alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his
every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored.
Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I will check again but my drill does not look like that one.
The one I
have does not resemble a standard drill.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is the drill I
have:http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Dia...54-24-0227.pdf

There is no button above the trigger or anywhere else that I
can find.

I have a slightly older version of this drill. No reverse.

So as I said...use a pipe wrench, or a 7/16 socket and back the
drill
bit itself in reverse a bit and slowly pull it out. If you can
get it to
turn...hook the drill back up to it, and while PULLING on
it..hit the go
switch and work it out.

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he
deserves,
but obviously craves. The most appropriate response, and perhaps
the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. An
alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every
post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. Just my
$0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So a 7/16 socket will fit the toothed end of the bit? I dont have
a
pipe wrench.

One thing I noticed is the clutch is slipping alot which may be
part
of the problem. Is the clutch adjustable?

By the way, this is a rotary hammer.

On Nov 10, 7:29*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 10 Nov 2009 05:12:10 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:





On Nov 9, 6:56*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 12:48:00 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

On Nov 9, 2:31*pm, stryped wrote:
On Nov 9, 1:01*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 05:25:42 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

Both of my Hiltis have reverse..both are hammer drills...both have had
reversed MANY times to get that bit unstuck

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I swaer I cant find it. There is a switch for hammer, un hammer but
that is it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is a Milwalki cat no 5347 and a serial number 688A 19515 0060.. I
looked for a product manual online that might tell me how to get it in
reverse but have had no luck as of yet. I really appreciate your help!

http://books.google.com/books?id=OOMDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=mil...

"Like the other Magnums, the Forward/Reverse lever above the trigger is
too small, but not nearly as difficult as the trigger lock button"

Might want to check above the trigger.....shrug

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I will check again but my drill does not look like that one. The one I
have does not resemble a standard drill.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is the drill I have:http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Dia...54-24-0227.pdf

There is no button above the trigger or anywhere else that I can find..

I have a slightly older version of this drill. No reverse.

So as I said...use a pipe wrench, or a 7/16 socket and back the drill
bit itself in reverse a bit and slowly pull it out. If you can get it to
turn...hook the drill back up to it, and while PULLING on it..hit the go
switch and work it out.

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0..02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So a 7/16 socket will fit the toothed end of the bit? I dont have a
pipe wrench.

the end that goes into the drill, is a 7/16 hex, right? *As for pipe
wrench..borrow one, or buy a 10"-14" one at Harbor Freight, or even the
biggest pair of Channel Locks you can find.

Everyone needs a pipe wrench, particularly if you are doing a lot of
Stuff around a shop. I suggest buying a cheap 14". Might cost you $7
when they arent on sale.



One thing I noticed is the clutch is slipping alot which may be part
of the problem. Is the clutch adjustable?

By the way, this is a rotary hammer.

The clutch is Replaceable, not adjustable as I recall.

Gunner

DISCLAIMER: The content does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either
* my ISP, myself, my company or employer, my friends (if any,) my goldfish or
* my neighbour's mad dog; don't quote me on that; don't quote me on anything;
* all rights reserved; the post is distribution copyrighted to the extent that
* you may distribute the post and all its associated parts freely but you may
* not make a profit from it or include the post in commercial publications
* without written permission from the Prime Minister of Hutt Province; other
* copyright laws for specific posts apply wherever noted or not noted, either
* deliberately, negligently, or otherwise; posts are subject to change without
* notice; posts are slightly enlarged to show detail; any resemblance to
* actual persons, living or dead, is unintentional and purely coincidental;
* hand wash only, tumble dry on low heat; do not bend, fold, mutilate, or
* spindle; do not pass go; do not collect $200; your mileage may vary; no
* substitutions allowed; for a limited time only; the post is void where
* prohibited, taxed, or otherwise restricted; the post is provided "as is"
* without any warranties expressed or implied; user assumes full liabilities;
* not liable for damages due to use or misuse; an equal opportunity abuse
* employer; no shoes, no shirt; quantities are limited while supplies last; if
* defects are discovered, do not attempt to fix them yourself but return to an
* authorised post service centre; caveat emptor; read at your own risk;
* parental advisory - explicit words; text may contain material some readers
* may find objectionable, parental guidance is advised; not suitable for
* children; not suitable for adults; not for human consumption; keep away from
* sunlight, pets and small children; limit one-per-family; no money down; no
* purchase necessary; to approved purchasers only; facsimiles are acceptable
* in South Australia; you need not be present to read this post; some assembly
* required; batteries not included; action figures sold separately; no
* preservatives added; tools not included; safety goggles may be required
* during use; sealed for your protection, do not use if the safety seal is
* broken; call before you dig; for external use only; if a rash, redness,
* irritation or swelling develops, discontinue use; use only with proper
* ventilation; avoid extreme temperatures and store in a cool, dry place; keep
* away from open flames, naked flames and old flames; avoid inhaling fumes;
* avoid contact with mucous membranes; do not puncture, incinerate, or store
* above 60 degrees Centigrade; do not place near flammable or magnetic source;
* smoking the post may be hazardous to your health; the best safeguard, second
* only to abstinence, is the use of a good laugh; text used on the post is
* made from 100% recycled electrons and magnetic particles; no animals were
* used to test the hilarity of this post other than Synapse Syndrome; no salt,
* MSG, artificial colour or flavour added; may contain traces of replies to
* peanuts; if ingested, do not induce vomiting, if symptoms persist, consult
* your humourologist; post is ribbed for your pleasure; slippery when wet;
* must be 18 to read; possible penalties for early withdrawal; post offer
* valid only in participating newsgroups; slightly higher in South Australia;
* allow four to six weeks for delivery; damage from hurricane, lightning,
* tornado, tsunami, volcanic eruption, earthquake, flood, orgasm, misuse,
* self-abuse, neglect, unauthorised repair, damage from improper installation,
* broken antenna, marred cabinet, incorrect line voltage, missing or altered
* serial numbers, sonic boom vibrations, electromagnetic radiation from
* nuclear blasts or other Acts of God are not covered; incidents owing to
* aeroplane crash, ship sinking, motor vehicle accidents, leaky roof, broken
* glass, falling rocks, mud- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is a splined end of bit. Not a hex head.

I used a pair of vice grips ont eh smooth part of the bit. It would
just split.

On Nov 10, 8:54*am, stryped wrote:
On Nov 10, 7:29*am, Gunner Asch wrote:





On Tue, 10 Nov 2009 05:12:10 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

On Nov 9, 6:56*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 12:48:00 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

On Nov 9, 2:31*pm, stryped wrote:
On Nov 9, 1:01*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 05:25:42 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

Both of my Hiltis have reverse..both are hammer drills...both have had
reversed MANY times to get that bit unstuck

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I swaer I cant find it. There is a switch for hammer, un hammer but
that is it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is a Milwalki cat no 5347 and a serial number 688A 19515 0060. I
looked for a product manual online that might tell me how to get it in
reverse but have had no luck as of yet. I really appreciate your help!

http://books.google.com/books?id=OOMDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=mil...

"Like the other Magnums, the Forward/Reverse lever above the trigger is
too small, but not nearly as difficult as the trigger lock button"

Might want to check above the trigger.....shrug

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I will check again but my drill does not look like that one. The one I
have does not resemble a standard drill.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is the drill I have:http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Dia...54-24-0227.pdf

There is no button above the trigger or anywhere else that I can find.

I have a slightly older version of this drill. No reverse.

So as I said...use a pipe wrench, or a 7/16 socket and back the drill
bit itself in reverse a bit and slowly pull it out. If you can get it to
turn...hook the drill back up to it, and while PULLING on it..hit the go
switch and work it out.

Gunner

"IMHO, some people here give Jeff far more attention than he deserves,
but obviously craves. *The most appropriate response, and perhaps the
cruelest, IMO, is to simply killfile and ignore him. *An alternative, if
you must, would be to post the same standard reply to his every post,
listing the manifold reasons why he ought to be ignored. *Just my $0.02
worth."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So a 7/16 socket will fit the toothed end of the bit? I dont have a
pipe wrench.

the end that goes into the drill, is a 7/16 hex, right? *As for pipe
wrench..borrow one, or buy a 10"-14" one at Harbor Freight, or even the
biggest pair of Channel Locks you can find.

Everyone needs a pipe wrench, particularly if you are doing a lot of
Stuff around a shop. I suggest buying a cheap 14". Might cost you $7
when they arent on sale.

One thing I noticed is the clutch is slipping alot which may be part
of the problem. Is the clutch adjustable?

By the way, this is a rotary hammer.

The clutch is Replaceable, not adjustable as I recall.

Gunner

DISCLAIMER: The content does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either
* my ISP, myself, my company or employer, my friends (if any,) my goldfish or
* my neighbour's mad dog; don't quote me on that; don't quote me on anything;
* all rights reserved; the post is distribution copyrighted to the extent that
* you may distribute the post and all its associated parts freely but you may
* not make a profit from it or include the post in commercial publications
* without written permission from the Prime Minister of Hutt Province; other
* copyright laws for specific posts apply wherever noted or not noted, either
* deliberately, negligently, or otherwise; posts are subject to change without
* notice; posts are slightly enlarged to show detail; any resemblance to
* actual persons, living or dead, is unintentional and purely coincidental;
* hand wash only, tumble dry on low heat; do not bend, fold, mutilate, or
* spindle; do not pass go; do not collect $200; your mileage may vary; no
* substitutions allowed; for a limited time only; the post is void where
* prohibited, taxed, or otherwise restricted; the post is provided "as is"
* without any warranties expressed or implied; user assumes full liabilities;
* not liable for damages due to use or misuse; an equal opportunity abuse
* employer; no shoes, no shirt; quantities are limited while supplies last; if
* defects are discovered, do not attempt to fix them yourself but return to an
* authorised post service centre; caveat emptor; read at your own risk;
* parental advisory - explicit words; text may contain material some readers
* may find objectionable, parental guidance is advised; not suitable for
* children; not suitable for adults; not for human consumption; keep away from
* sunlight, pets and small children; limit one-per-family; no money down; no
* purchase necessary; to approved purchasers only; facsimiles are acceptable
* in South Australia; you need not be present to read this post; some assembly
* required; batteries not included; action figures sold separately; no
* preservatives added; tools not included; safety goggles may be required
* during use; sealed for your protection, do not use if the safety seal is
* broken; call before you dig; for external use only; if a rash, redness,
* irritation or swelling develops, discontinue use; use only with proper
* ventilation; avoid extreme temperatures and store in a cool, dry place; keep
* away from open flames, naked flames and old flames; avoid inhaling fumes;
* avoid contact with mucous membranes; do not puncture, incinerate, or store
* above 60 degrees Centigrade; do not place near flammable or magnetic source;
* smoking the post may be hazardous to your health; the best safeguard, second
* only to abstinence, is the use of a good laugh; text used on the post is
* made from 100% recycled electrons and magnetic particles; no animals were
* used to test the hilarity of this post other than Synapse Syndrome; no salt,
* MSG, artificial colour or flavour added; may contain traces of replies to
* peanuts; if ingested, do not induce vomiting, if symptoms persist, consult
* your humourologist; post is ribbed for your pleasure; slippery when wet;
* must be 18 to read; possible penalties for early withdrawal; post offer
* valid only in participating newsgroups; slightly higher in South Australia;
* allow four to six weeks for delivery; damage from hurricane, lightning,
* tornado, tsunami, volcanic eruption, earthquake, flood, orgasm, misuse,
* self-abuse, neglect, unauthorised repair, damage from improper installation,
* broken antenna, marred cabinet, incorrect line voltage, missing or altered
* serial numbers, sonic boom vibrations, electromagnetic radiation from
* nuclear blasts or other Acts of God are not covered; incidents owing to
* aeroplane crash, ship sinking, motor vehicle accidents, leaky roof, broken
* glass, falling rocks, mud- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It is a splined end of bit. Not a hex head.

I used a pair of vice grips ont eh smooth part of the bit. It would
just split.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is what the bit looks like: http://www.toolbarn.com/milwaukee-48-20-3990.html

stryped wrote in
:

It is a splined end of bit. Not a hex head.

I used a pair of vice grips ont eh smooth part of the bit. It would
just split.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is what the bit looks like:
http://www.toolbarn.com/milwaukee-48-20-3990.html

Have you tried just hammering on the back end a bit? I'd protect the
metal spline with something & then "use a bigger hammer" just enough to
free it up. You should be able to deliver a better whack than the rotary
hammer can, and that might be enough to free it. I'd sneak up on it,
applying just enough force to exceed what the rotary hammer can deliver.

Doug White

On Nov 10, 12:02*pm, Doug White wrote:
stryped wrote :

It is a splined end of bit. Not a hex head.

I used a pair of vice grips ont eh smooth part of the bit. It would
just split.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is what the bit looks like:
http://www.toolbarn.com/milwaukee-48-20-3990.html

Have you tried just hammering on the back end a bit? *I'd protect the
metal spline with something & then "use a bigger hammer" just enough to
free it up. *You should be able to deliver a better whack than the rotary
hammer can, and that might be enough to free it. *I'd sneak up on it,
applying just enough force to exceed what the rotary hammer can deliver.

Doug White

I have wacked it but to be honest was afraid of driving it deeper.