Picked up a "2.98 kW" (4 HP?) 60 gallon Speedaire compressor with a
self described "bad motor" for $50.

I am kinda hoping that the motor is not actually bad.

Upon inspection, it seems that the motor has four terminals
1,2,3,4. Terminals 1 and 4, supposedly, are for line in, if i read the
label right.

There is no diagram for the rest, so, would it be correct to assume
that I need to connect 1 and 2, and 3 and 4? Or, if the rotation is
wrong, 1 and 3, and 2 and 4?

i

On Nov 4, 6:23*pm, Ignoramus8745
wrote:
Picked up a "2.98 kW" (4 HP?) 60 gallon Speedaire compressor with a
self described "bad motor" for $50.

I am kinda hoping that the motor is not actually bad.

Upon inspection, it seems that the motor has four terminals
1,2,3,4. Terminals 1 and 4, supposedly, are for line in, if i read the
label right.

There is no diagram for the rest, so, would it be correct to assume
that I need to connect 1 and 2, and 3 and 4? Or, if the rotation is
wrong, 1 and 3, and 2 and 4?

i

Dangerous assumption. Check with a meter first, see what continuity
there is.

4 REAL hp would pretty much force it to be a 240 volt motor. IF so, the
1+2 and 3+4 will pretty much fry internal things on 240, fry EXTERNAL
things on 120. If there are no terminals inside to hook those two extra
wires to (reversing), you will need to get the meter out.

Ignoramus8745 wrote:
Picked up a "2.98 kW" (4 HP?) 60 gallon Speedaire compressor with a
self described "bad motor" for $50.

I am kinda hoping that the motor is not actually bad.

Upon inspection, it seems that the motor has four terminals
1,2,3,4. Terminals 1 and 4, supposedly, are for line in, if i read the
label right.

There is no diagram for the rest, so, would it be correct to assume
that I need to connect 1 and 2, and 3 and 4? Or, if the rotation is
wrong, 1 and 3, and 2 and 4?

i

On 2009-11-05, RoyJ wrote:
4 REAL hp would pretty much force it to be a 240 volt motor.

Yes.

IF so, the 1+2 and 3+4 will pretty much fry internal things on 240,
fry EXTERNAL things on 120. If there are no terminals inside to hook
those two extra wires to (reversing), you will need to get the meter
out.

I am thinking.

Terminal one (hot) has one fork.
Terminal four (hot) has two forks.
Terminal two has one fork.
Terminal three has two forks.

i

Ignoramus8745 wrote:
Picked up a "2.98 kW" (4 HP?) 60 gallon Speedaire compressor with a
self described "bad motor" for $50.

I am kinda hoping that the motor is not actually bad.

Upon inspection, it seems that the motor has four terminals
1,2,3,4. Terminals 1 and 4, supposedly, are for line in, if i read the
label right.

There is no diagram for the rest, so, would it be correct to assume
that I need to connect 1 and 2, and 3 and 4? Or, if the rotation is
wrong, 1 and 3, and 2 and 4?

i

Pictures of the motor and connection box are he

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/MC-261-Dayton-Motor/

Ignoramus8745 wrote:

On 2009-11-05, RoyJ wrote:
4 REAL hp would pretty much force it to be a 240 volt motor.

Yes.

IF so, the 1+2 and 3+4 will pretty much fry internal things on 240,
fry EXTERNAL things on 120. If there are no terminals inside to hook
those two extra wires to (reversing), you will need to get the meter
out.

I am thinking.

Terminal one (hot) has one fork.
Terminal four (hot) has two forks.
Terminal two has one fork.
Terminal three has two forks.

i

Ignoramus8745 wrote:
Picked up a "2.98 kW" (4 HP?) 60 gallon Speedaire compressor with a
self described "bad motor" for $50.

I am kinda hoping that the motor is not actually bad.

Upon inspection, it seems that the motor has four terminals
1,2,3,4. Terminals 1 and 4, supposedly, are for line in, if i read the
label right.

There is no diagram for the rest, so, would it be correct to assume
that I need to connect 1 and 2, and 3 and 4? Or, if the rotation is
wrong, 1 and 3, and 2 and 4?

i

A search on the Dayton MC-261 motor has a couple threads that state
it is a single phase non reversible motor that use only pins 1 & 4 for
the 240 VAC line. It has two capacitors from the photos. Have you
tested or replaced them?

--
The movie 'Deliverance' isn't a documentary!

On 2009-11-05, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
A search on the Dayton MC-261 motor has a couple threads that state
it is a single phase non reversible motor that use only pins 1 & 4 for
the 240 VAC line. It has two capacitors from the photos. Have you
tested or replaced them?


Not yet. If only two terminals are used (1 and 4), then why are these
terminals 2 and 3?

I will get the cap out tonight, hopefully, and will replace it in any
case.

i

On Nov 5, 5:42*am, Ignoramus11615 ignoramus11...@NOSPAM.
11615.invalid wrote:

Looking at the photos, I'd expect continuity between 3 and 4 and also
between 1 and 2.

One direction would be 3 jumpered to 1 and 4 jumpered to 2.
Other direction would be 3 jumpered to 2 and 4 jumpered to 1.

But I could be wrong.

"Ignoramus11615" wrote in message
...
On 2009-11-05, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
A search on the Dayton MC-261 motor has a couple threads that state
it is a single phase non reversible motor that use only pins 1 & 4 for
the 240 VAC line. It has two capacitors from the photos. Have you
tested or replaced them?


Not yet. If only two terminals are used (1 and 4), then why are these
terminals 2 and 3?

they reused an existing part from a different motor because it fit and
didn't have pay more design fees.

I will get the cap out tonight, hopefully, and will replace it in any
case.

i

On Wed, 04 Nov 2009 23:03:46 -0600, Ignoramus8745
wrote:


Pictures of the motor and connection box are he

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/MC-261-Dayton-Motor/


It's nameplate rated as a 230V machine (not 115/230) So 1 and 4
are line input. 2 and 3 must be the series connection of the
start winding, the capacitor and the centrifugal switch.

To double check - there should be continuity between 1 and 4;
but 2 and 3 both open circuit to everything else

1+2 and 3+4 for forward
1+3 and 2+4 for reverse

If it's not obviously burnt the switch or the capacitor are
likely suspects. Connect 1 and 4 only and rope start it to check
that the main winding is OK

Jim

There is no reason to assume that any connections need to be made, other
than the connections shown/mentioned on the motor data label.
That means earth ground too.

Dayton, or a Dayton motor distributor, may/should be able to supply a
diagram for the internal connections (centrifugal, thermal protect switches
and capacitor connections).

You should be completely familiar with the troubleshooting procedures by
now. Initial live checks are easier to interpret, and likely safer, with the
pump belt removed.

See Roy's and others' recent recommendations for Dave's compressor motor
which wouldn't start.

--
WB
..........


"Ignoramus8745" wrote in message
...
Picked up a "2.98 kW" (4 HP?) 60 gallon Speedaire compressor with a
self described "bad motor" for $50.

I am kinda hoping that the motor is not actually bad.

Upon inspection, it seems that the motor has four terminals
1,2,3,4. Terminals 1 and 4, supposedly, are for line in, if i read the
label right.

There is no diagram for the rest, so, would it be correct to assume
that I need to connect 1 and 2, and 3 and 4? Or, if the rotation is
wrong, 1 and 3, and 2 and 4?

i

On 2009-11-05, wrote:
On Wed, 04 Nov 2009 23:03:46 -0600, Ignoramus8745
wrote:


Pictures of the motor and connection box are he

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/MC-261-Dayton-Motor/


It's nameplate rated as a 230V machine (not 115/230) So 1 and 4
are line input. 2 and 3 must be the series connection of the
start winding, the capacitor and the centrifugal switch.

To double check - there should be continuity between 1 and 4;
but 2 and 3 both open circuit to everything else

1+2 and 3+4 for forward
1+3 and 2+4 for reverse

If it's not obviously burnt the switch or the capacitor are
likely suspects. Connect 1 and 4 only and rope start it to check
that the main winding is OK

Jim.. Thanks... You are the God of electric motors... I will try to do
more tonight, hopefuly before the McMaster order cutoff time, so that
I can order an appropriate start cap.

One has to wonder, however, why 1 and 2 has only one terminal blade.

i

On 2009-11-05, charlie wrote:

"Ignoramus11615" wrote in message
...
On 2009-11-05, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
A search on the Dayton MC-261 motor has a couple threads that state
it is a single phase non reversible motor that use only pins 1 & 4 for
the 240 VAC line. It has two capacitors from the photos. Have you
tested or replaced them?


Not yet. If only two terminals are used (1 and 4), then why are these
terminals 2 and 3?

they reused an existing part from a different motor because it fit and
didn't have pay more design fees.

OK, that could be.

i

Wild_Bill wrote:

There is no reason to assume that any connections need to be made, other
than the connections shown/mentioned on the motor data label.
That means earth ground too.

Dayton, or a Dayton motor distributor, may/should be able to supply a
diagram for the internal connections (centrifugal, thermal protect switches
and capacitor connections).


Dayton is owned by Grainger's


You should be completely familiar with the troubleshooting procedures by
now. Initial live checks are easier to interpret, and likely safer, with the
pump belt removed.

See Roy's and others' recent recommendations for Dave's compressor motor
which wouldn't start.


--
The movie 'Deliverance' isn't a documentary!

Ignoramus8745 wrote:
Picked up a "2.98 kW" (4 HP?) 60 gallon Speedaire compressor with a
self described "bad motor" for $50.

I am kinda hoping that the motor is not actually bad.

Upon inspection, it seems that the motor has four terminals
1,2,3,4. Terminals 1 and 4, supposedly, are for line in, if i read the
label right.

There is no diagram for the rest, so, would it be correct to assume
that I need to connect 1 and 2, and 3 and 4? Or, if the rotation is
wrong, 1 and 3, and 2 and 4?

i
Probably not. I am guessing it is a dual-voltage
motor, and likely you tie 2-3
and tape up for high voltage, and probably
something like line in on 1-2 and 3-4
for low voltage. But, it could be a reverisble
motor. Usually, reversible motors
do not have 4 leads, but have a terminal board
insde where you reverse two
wires to change the direction. Is there a nameplate?
If not, there might be a paper label somewhere
under a cover with the wiring
instructions.

Jon

On 2009-11-05, Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus8745 wrote:
Picked up a "2.98 kW" (4 HP?) 60 gallon Speedaire compressor with a
self described "bad motor" for $50.

I am kinda hoping that the motor is not actually bad.

Upon inspection, it seems that the motor has four terminals
1,2,3,4. Terminals 1 and 4, supposedly, are for line in, if i read the
label right.

There is no diagram for the rest, so, would it be correct to assume
that I need to connect 1 and 2, and 3 and 4? Or, if the rotation is
wrong, 1 and 3, and 2 and 4?

i
Probably not. I am guessing it is a dual-voltage
motor,

it is not

and likely you tie 2-3 and tape up for high voltage, and probably
something like line in on 1-2 and 3-4 for low voltage. But, it
could be a reverisble motor. Usually, reversible motors do not have
4 leads, but have a terminal board insde where you reverse two wires
to change the direction. Is there a nameplate? If not, there might
be a paper label somewhere under a cover with the wiring
instructions.

There is a nameplate:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/MC-261-Dayton-Motor/

it says connect to terminals 1 and 4 only. But maybe 2 and 3 were
connected somehow in the motor as it was shipped, but now they are not
connected to anything as of now.

I know that it is 230v only, and nowhere it mentions that it is
reversible.

i

On 2009-11-05, Ignoramus11615 wrote:
On 2009-11-05, Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus8745 wrote:
Picked up a "2.98 kW" (4 HP?) 60 gallon Speedaire compressor with a
self described "bad motor" for $50.

I am kinda hoping that the motor is not actually bad.

Upon inspection, it seems that the motor has four terminals
1,2,3,4. Terminals 1 and 4, supposedly, are for line in, if i read the
label right.

There is no diagram for the rest, so, would it be correct to assume
that I need to connect 1 and 2, and 3 and 4? Or, if the rotation is
wrong, 1 and 3, and 2 and 4?

i
Probably not. I am guessing it is a dual-voltage
motor,

it is not

and likely you tie 2-3 and tape up for high voltage, and probably
something like line in on 1-2 and 3-4 for low voltage. But, it
could be a reverisble motor. Usually, reversible motors do not have
4 leads, but have a terminal board insde where you reverse two wires
to change the direction. Is there a nameplate? If not, there might
be a paper label somewhere under a cover with the wiring
instructions.

There is a nameplate:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/MC-261-Dayton-Motor/

it says connect to terminals 1 and 4 only. But maybe 2 and 3 were
connected somehow in the motor as it was shipped, but now they are not
connected to anything as of now.

Also, possibly, 2 and 3 are for external operation of the safety
thermal reset that is built in the motor.

I know that it is 230v only, and nowhere it mentions that it is
reversible.

i

On Nov 5, 10:39*am, Ignoramus11615 ignoramus11...@NOSPAM.
11615.invalid wrote:
On 2009-11-05, Ignoramus11615 wrote:



On 2009-11-05, Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus8745 wrote:
Picked up a "2.98 kW" (4 HP?) 60 gallon Speedaire compressor with a
self described "bad motor" for $50.

I am kinda hoping that the motor is not actually bad.

Upon inspection, it seems that the motor has four terminals
1,2,3,4. Terminals 1 and 4, supposedly, are for line in, if i read the
label right.

There is no diagram for the rest, so, would it be correct to assume
that I need to connect 1 and 2, and 3 and 4? Or, if the rotation is
wrong, 1 and 3, and 2 and 4?

i
Probably not. *I am guessing it is a dual-voltage
motor,

it is not

and likely you tie 2-3 and tape up for high voltage, and probably
something like line in on 1-2 and 3-4 for low voltage. *But, it
could be a reverisble motor. *Usually, reversible motors do not have
4 leads, but have a terminal board insde where you reverse two wires
to change the direction. *Is there a nameplate? *If not, there might
be a paper label somewhere under a cover with the wiring
instructions.

There is a nameplate:

* * *http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/MC-261-Dayton-Motor/

it says connect to terminals 1 and 4 only. But maybe 2 and 3 were
connected somehow in the motor as it was shipped, but now they are not
connected to anything as of now.

Also, possibly, 2 and 3 are for external operation of the safety
thermal reset that is built in the motor.

I know that it is 230v only, and nowhere it mentions that it is
reversible.

i

Look closely at the terminals. Use a magnifying glass. Do they all
show signs of use?

Paul

On Nov 5, 10:35*am, Ignoramus11615 ignoramus11...@NOSPAM.
11615.invalid wrote:

I know that it is 230v only, and nowhere it mentions that it is
reversible.

i

I've never seen it mentioned on a motor - and I've never seen a non
reversible motor (except really small ones). Who would build a motor
in two versions, clockwise and anti-clockwise?

I'm 90% sure there were jumpers inside as shipped.

Ignoramus11615 wrote:

On 2009-11-05, Ignoramus11615 wrote:
On 2009-11-05, Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus8745 wrote:
Picked up a "2.98 kW" (4 HP?) 60 gallon Speedaire compressor with a
self described "bad motor" for $50.

I am kinda hoping that the motor is not actually bad.

Upon inspection, it seems that the motor has four terminals
1,2,3,4. Terminals 1 and 4, supposedly, are for line in, if i read the
label right.

There is no diagram for the rest, so, would it be correct to assume
that I need to connect 1 and 2, and 3 and 4? Or, if the rotation is
wrong, 1 and 3, and 2 and 4?

i
Probably not. I am guessing it is a dual-voltage
motor,

it is not

and likely you tie 2-3 and tape up for high voltage, and probably
something like line in on 1-2 and 3-4 for low voltage. But, it
could be a reverisble motor. Usually, reversible motors do not have
4 leads, but have a terminal board insde where you reverse two wires
to change the direction. Is there a nameplate? If not, there might
be a paper label somewhere under a cover with the wiring
instructions.

There is a nameplate:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/MC-261-Dayton-Motor/

it says connect to terminals 1 and 4 only. But maybe 2 and 3 were
connected somehow in the motor as it was shipped, but now they are not
connected to anything as of now.

Also, possibly, 2 and 3 are for external operation of the safety
thermal reset that is built in the motor.

I know that it is 230v only, and nowhere it mentions that it is
reversible.

i


Did you look at the photos? It is a motor designed for air
compressors. Why would you want to reverse one?

--
The movie 'Deliverance' isn't a documentary!

On 2009-11-06, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Ignoramus11615 wrote:

On 2009-11-05, Ignoramus11615 wrote:
On 2009-11-05, Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus8745 wrote:
Picked up a "2.98 kW" (4 HP?) 60 gallon Speedaire compressor with a
self described "bad motor" for $50.

I am kinda hoping that the motor is not actually bad.

Upon inspection, it seems that the motor has four terminals
1,2,3,4. Terminals 1 and 4, supposedly, are for line in, if i read the
label right.

There is no diagram for the rest, so, would it be correct to assume
that I need to connect 1 and 2, and 3 and 4? Or, if the rotation is
wrong, 1 and 3, and 2 and 4?

i
Probably not. I am guessing it is a dual-voltage
motor,

it is not

and likely you tie 2-3 and tape up for high voltage, and probably
something like line in on 1-2 and 3-4 for low voltage. But, it
could be a reverisble motor. Usually, reversible motors do not have
4 leads, but have a terminal board insde where you reverse two wires
to change the direction. Is there a nameplate? If not, there might
be a paper label somewhere under a cover with the wiring
instructions.

There is a nameplate:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/MC-261-Dayton-Motor/

it says connect to terminals 1 and 4 only. But maybe 2 and 3 were
connected somehow in the motor as it was shipped, but now they are not
connected to anything as of now.

Also, possibly, 2 and 3 are for external operation of the safety
thermal reset that is built in the motor.

I know that it is 230v only, and nowhere it mentions that it is
reversible.

i


Did you look at the photos? It is a motor designed for air
compressors. Why would you want to reverse one?


I do not want to reverse it, I never said that I want to reverse it.

I want to make it run, that's all.

i

As a cost reduction measure, the "compressor duty" motors are often
built with no jumpers, everything is hard wired inside.

N Morrison wrote:
On Nov 5, 10:35 am, Ignoramus11615 ignoramus11...@NOSPAM.
11615.invalid wrote:

I know that it is 230v only, and nowhere it mentions that it is
reversible.

i

I've never seen it mentioned on a motor - and I've never seen a non
reversible motor (except really small ones). Who would build a motor
in two versions, clockwise and anti-clockwise?

I'm 90% sure there were jumpers inside as shipped.

Ignoramus8745 wrote:
Picked up a "2.98 kW" (4 HP?) 60 gallon Speedaire compressor with a
self described "bad motor" for $50.

I am kinda hoping that the motor is not actually bad.
So, have you tried it, yet? What happened?

Jon

On 2009-11-06, Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus8745 wrote:
Picked up a "2.98 kW" (4 HP?) 60 gallon Speedaire compressor with a
self described "bad motor" for $50.

I am kinda hoping that the motor is not actually bad.
So, have you tried it, yet? What happened?

Jon

getting the cap today

Ignoramus16167 wrote:

I do not want to reverse it, I never said that I want to reverse it.

--------------
Upon inspection, it seems that the motor has four terminals
1,2,3,4. Terminals 1 and 4, supposedly, are for line in, if i read the
label right.

There is no diagram for the rest, so, would it be correct to assume
that I need to connect 1 and 2, and 3 and 4? Or, if the rotation is
wrong, 1 and 3, and 2 and 4?

--------------

You were talking about it here, instead of just wiring it like the
label said to. It was clear that you only use terminals 1 & 4, yet you
ramble on about connecting the other terminals. The other terminals are
N/C as far as the outside world goes. The OEM can use them for whatever
they want, or not use them at all.

You should 'Assume' that the OEM doesn't want you to use them for
anything.



--
The movie 'Deliverance' isn't a documentary!