I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

i

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:36:32 -0500, Ignoramus7937
wrote:

I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

i

You could look at holster type belts from Safariland, Bianchi, etc.
They're fairly expensive but well made. I used to wear ranger style
belts with blue jeans when I wasn't as big around. The next belt I'm
going to try will be this one from Maxpedition, but it isn't leather.

http://www.maxpedition.com/store/pc/...?idCategory=16

Pete Keillor

"Ignoramus7937" wrote in message
...
I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

i

Go to any good country and western store and spend $30 to $40. Look for all
leather designation, and as for the buckle, they come with one, you you can
get one of those dinner plate sized western ones. Good leather makes good
belts. Lots of belts are made of plastics and other things, and obviously,
as you found out, don't last long. I have a belt I made in 8th grade arts
and crafts class. I'm 60 now. Like anything leather, maintain it with the
proper chemicals and oils.

On Sep 22, 8:36*am, Ignoramus7937
wrote:
I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

i

I used to get good belt blanks from Tandy, dye them when needed and
give them a good shot of finish. They'd last about 10 years, I'd reuse
the buckles as they stretched out. The blanks got expensive and
eventually Tandy got out of retailing, I've been told they still are
on the web, though.

The gun shows around here are a good source, if you've got good
buckles from old belts, you can reuse them as long as the end of the
belt has snaps. The department store belts are sewn together these
days, no snaps, so those are out. Over-priced cardboard crap, too.
I've had them fail in about two weeks.

Stan

On 2009-09-22, wrote:
On Sep 22, 8:36?am, Ignoramus7937
wrote:
I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

I used to get good belt blanks from Tandy, dye them when needed and
give them a good shot of finish. They'd last about 10 years, I'd reuse
the buckles as they stretched out. The blanks got expensive and
eventually Tandy got out of retailing, I've been told they still are
on the web, though.

The gun shows around here are a good source, if you've got good
buckles from old belts, you can reuse them as long as the end of the
belt has snaps. The department store belts are sewn together these
days, no snaps, so those are out. Over-priced cardboard crap, too.
I've had them fail in about two weeks.

There is a gun show coming up on Oct. 4, I will go there anyway. Great
idea!

i

Ignoramus7937 writes:

I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

Thick leather, tooled as you like it. I made the mistake once of
getting a belt that was a real basketweave (as opposed to tooled to look
like basketweave), and another time of getting a belt made of two pieces
(front side and back side) stitched together. Both fell apart in a
couple of months.
--
As we enjoy great advantages from the inventions of others, we should
be glad of an opportunity to serve others by any invention of ours;
and this we should do freely and generously. (Benjamin Franklin)

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:36:32 -0500, the infamous Ignoramus7937
scrawled the following:

I had two cheap leather belts fail recently.

Ah, off the diet again, are ya, Ig? bseg


Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason.

Those stone floors in cat houses can be hard on belts, can't they?
cackle


As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

My problem with cheap belts was where the spoke which went through the
hole in the belt would fall off the main buckle. That and bad leather
(glued together, but split) which didn't last the year.

I've found decent belts at Target for $10, and I've even hung tool
pouches from them.

Maybe it's the shopping I did at Harbor Freight in the 70s which keyed
me in to the good v. bad metals thing. Perhaps you should shop HF
more, Ig, to learn that feel.

Then again, the vast majority of products from HF are a whole helluva
lot better now than they were 35 years ago.

--
The scientific theory I like best is that the rings of Saturn
are composed entirely of lost airline luggage.
--Mark Russell

On 2009-09-22, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:36:32 -0500, the infamous Ignoramus7937
scrawled the following:

I had two cheap leather belts fail recently.

Ah, off the diet again, are ya, Ig? bseg

I actually weigh the same as I did before I got married.

And maybe 1-3 lbs more than 2-3 years ago.

As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

My problem with cheap belts was where the spoke which went through the
hole in the belt would fall off the main buckle. That and bad leather
(glued together, but split) which didn't last the year.

I've found decent belts at Target for $10, and I've even hung tool
pouches from them.

Maybe it's the shopping I did at Harbor Freight in the 70s which keyed
me in to the good v. bad metals thing. Perhaps you should shop HF
more, Ig, to learn that feel.

I shop it more than I would like to admit.

Then again, the vast majority of products from HF are a whole helluva
lot better now than they were 35 years ago.

As long as I avoid anything with motors, and sharp edges, I am OK.

i

"Ignoramus7937" wrote in message
...
I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

Double pack from Costco was a good deal at about $20, definitely better than
the usual belts I buy.

SteveB wrote:
"Ignoramus7937" wrote in message
...
I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

i

Go to any good country and western store and spend $30 to $40. Look for all
leather designation, and as for the buckle, they come with one, you you can
get one of those dinner plate sized western ones. Good leather makes good
belts. Lots of belts are made of plastics and other things, and obviously,
as you found out, don't last long. I have a belt I made in 8th grade arts
and crafts class. I'm 60 now. Like anything leather, maintain it with the
proper chemicals and oils.



I hate to admit it but I generally buy my belts at county/state fairs!
You can usually find a western store OR better yet one of the places
that does jackets and custom leather work. You can buy L O N G blanks,
that they cut down, punch and make up for you on the spot.

Buckle wise it depends on which style you want. The conventional locking
spoke style requires a longer belt than the larger pin style buckles.
Then you decide finish type. Material wise you can buy just about
anything. Pot metal, stainless, billet aluminum. I usually opt for the
stainless spoke style. The other type have a nasty habit of coming lose
at the wrong time!!!

--
Steve W.

Ignoramus7937 wrote:
I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

i
One place thats not been mentioned is a saddlers shop. Ie horse harness.
The horsey folk will only use best oak bark tanned leather which comes
from cow or bullock from the backs of the animal.
This can be had up to 3/8in thick and up to 60 in long.

Again the horse harness folk use only nickel silver or best brass buckles.
Ive made many belts from this grade and thickness of leather andhey last
some 20yrs before the holes in the belt elongate.
But then the buckles I make will cost from $50.00 upwards, with minted
fronts, also in sterling silver to order.
the leather costs $30.00 in 1.75 in wide. any length up to 60 in.
But I guarantee them both for 10 yrs. Never had one come back.
They are all tested to 200lbs dead weight for an hour.
Hope this helps..

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:36:32 -0500, Ignoramus7937
wrote:

I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

i

Make your own Iggy. With the Tandy kits it is pretty simple.
Find a decent buckle and keep recycling it. My buckles must
all be ~35 years old by now

See:

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/h...vlocation=left

Haven't bought any for years, but usually go for something
like this:

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/h...ture=Product_5

Get a hole punch if you don't already have one.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On 2009-09-22, Leon Fisk wrote:
Make your own Iggy. With the Tandy kits it is pretty simple.
Find a decent buckle and keep recycling it. My buckles must
all be ~35 years old by now

See:

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/h...vlocation=left

Haven't bought any for years, but usually go for something
like this:

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/h...ture=Product_5

Get a hole punch if you don't already have one.


Leon, I am thinking in the opposite way: to make a buckle for the
current belt whose buckle failed. The leather is so-so, but much
better than the buckle.

What I am considering doing is this.

I have a bunch of 3/16" nickel welding rod, as well as some 5/32"
Inconel welding rod. I could remove the flux from one rod, bend it to
shape, and make a buckle in this manner.

i

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:56:53 -0500, the infamous Ignoramus7937
scrawled the following:

On 2009-09-22, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:36:32 -0500, the infamous Ignoramus7937
scrawled the following:

I had two cheap leather belts fail recently.

Ah, off the diet again, are ya, Ig? bseg

I actually weigh the same as I did before I got married.

And maybe 1-3 lbs more than 2-3 years ago.

My joke went over your head, did it? Congrats on maintenance. I'm
25lbs heavier now but I'm not smoking or drinking, so I'm happier.
Some day I'll learn to trim off this extra fat.


As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

My problem with cheap belts was where the spoke which went through the
hole in the belt would fall off the main buckle. That and bad leather
(glued together, but split) which didn't last the year.

I've found decent belts at Target for $10, and I've even hung tool
pouches from them.

Maybe it's the shopping I did at Harbor Freight in the 70s which keyed
me in to the good v. bad metals thing. Perhaps you should shop HF
more, Ig, to learn that feel.

I shop it more than I would like to admit.

Many people do. har


Then again, the vast majority of products from HF are a whole helluva
lot better now than they were 35 years ago.

As long as I avoid anything with motors, and sharp edges, I am OK.

I haven't had problems with their motors, but their edges don't get my
vote, either.

--
The scientific theory I like best is that the rings of Saturn
are composed entirely of lost airline luggage.
--Mark Russell

Ignoramus7937 wrote:
On 2009-09-22, Leon Fisk wrote:
Make your own Iggy. With the Tandy kits it is pretty simple.
Find a decent buckle and keep recycling it. My buckles must
all be ~35 years old by now

See:


http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/h...vlocation=left

Haven't bought any for years, but usually go for something
like this:


http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/h...ture=Product_5

Get a hole punch if you don't already have one.


Leon, I am thinking in the opposite way: to make a buckle for the
current belt whose buckle failed. The leather is so-so, but much
better than the buckle.

What I am considering doing is this.

I have a bunch of 3/16" nickel welding rod, as well as some 5/32"
Inconel welding rod. I could remove the flux from one rod, bend it to
shape, and make a buckle in this manner.

If you'll send some pics of what you want, alomg with enough info for me to
create a solid model, I'll model it up, program it and cut you one Gratis.

I've got Titanium, CRESS, and 304L enough to make anything reasonable but
it could also be cut from A2 or H-13 or even 420SS and then heat treated.
None of those materials are pricey.

You won't live long enough to wear out a hardened A2 or H-13 buckle that's
properly designed and machined from a blank.

--
John R. Carroll

Ignoramus7937 wrote:
I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.


Some buckles form their own restraint for the loose end of the belt. The
spike is on a central bar. It's more reliable than an additional leather
loop. I like the style too.
Having more than one spike spreads the load on holes, and look sorta cool.
For maximum reliability I reckon the type that has 2 rings (maybe S/S
from boat shop?), where you have to loop back under one ring, must win.
But they're not so convenient, and look clunky.

Jordan

wrote in message
...
On Sep 22, 8:36 am, Ignoramus7937
wrote:
I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

i

I used to get good belt blanks from Tandy, dye them when needed and
give them a good shot of finish. They'd last about 10 years, I'd reuse
the buckles as they stretched out. The blanks got expensive and
eventually Tandy got out of retailing, I've been told they still are
on the web, though.

The gun shows around here are a good source, if you've got good
buckles from old belts, you can reuse them as long as the end of the
belt has snaps. The department store belts are sewn together these
days, no snaps, so those are out. Over-priced cardboard crap, too.
I've had them fail in about two weeks.

Stan

I thought I was hosed until I realized I have a commercial walking foot
sewing machine. Had to repair a very old but favorite belt, and would have
had to pay too much to have snaps put on it, or buy a kit. I just sewed it,
and it looks fine.

Steve

"Ignoramus7937" wrote

There is a gun show coming up on Oct. 4, I will go there anyway. Great
idea!

i

Iggy, Iggy, Iggy. A man does not NEED a reason go to to a gun show.

HTH. And good shopping.

Steve

Ignoramus7937 writes:

I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

Chances are best at a Western wear style retailer. It helps to be in the
actual West, or at least the Midwest.

"Ignoramus7937" wrote in message
...
I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

i

This happened to me also. After looking over the poor selection at the
department stores having a lot of cheep Chinese belts I went to the leather
store, purchased a solid buckle and a strip of leather and made my own belt.
Nothing fancy, but I selected the thick leather and got the maximum width
that would fit my blue jeans and it is good and solid after over a year.

Unfortunately the buckle was still made in China, but it was of a solid
design rather than the die cast junk you experienced.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

"SteveB" wrote in message
...


I thought I was hosed until I realized I have a commercial walking foot
sewing machine. Had to repair a very old but favorite belt, and would
have
had to pay too much to have snaps put on it, or buy a kit. I just sewed
it,
and it looks fine.

Steve



I used the small binder posts they sold at the Tandy store. I took a piece
of the cutoff and made a loop. The leather was so thick however that I took
it to the bench grinder to thin it for the loop. I fastened the loop
between to of the binder posts after hand sewing with some really stout
nylon line.


--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

"Ignoramus7937" wrote in message
...
I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

i

A REAL man uses a nail gun to hold up his pants!

On Sep 22, 4:36*am, Ignoramus7937
wrote:
I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

i

I used to buy leather from here.
http://www.leatherunltd.com/finished/belts/belts.html
Buy the belt you want and the buckle you want. Several different
qualities.
Karl

I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break,

Ah, a buckle failure, not a leather failure. Others have already
addressed sources for leather, but the only way I have been able to
guarantee a good buckle has been to look for the words "solid brass"
stamped on it somewhere. Even the keeper style are likely to be
plated diecast if they're not marked.

If you don't mind the roller "harness" style, tractor supply has
buckles, as well as solid copper rivets with washers (burrs). I find
I only ever remove a buckle once I've killed the leather anyway, so I
don't bother with snaps.

Metalworking content: to use solid copper rivets, punch a hole through
the leather, push through the rivet from the front (if fastening a
buckle, obviously you will need to punch a series of holes for the
keeper, insert the buckle, fold over and align holes). On the back,
put the washer over the shaft. At this point it will only go on until
the taper. Use a piece pf steel with a hole drilled in it (rivet sets
have one next to the "heading" recess) or just use a pair of slipjoint
pliers held loosely on the shaft of the rivet, tap the washer down the
shaft with a hammer (a 1 lb. ball peen works well for this and the
next few steps). Clip the rivet off leaving about 1/8 to 3/16. Rest
the head of the rivet on an anvil or heavy vise, and pound straight
down on the end with the flat end of the hammer until the rivet
expands and starts to mash over. Once it is close to fully mashed
down, switch to the peen end to dome it nicely. Takes longer to write
than to do.

If at some point you do want to change buckles, seperate the two
pieces of leather enough to get a pair of diagonal cutters in there,
and just cut it. Put in the new buckle and re-rivet.

If you don't like the solid copper, you could also use the two-part
brass "jiffy" rivets, so I would use at least two, maybe even three.
Rivet style won't show, since they'll be covered by the tail of the
belt regardless. Or just use binding posts like one of the other
responses mentioned, though you might have better luck finding them in
a leather shop if you ask for "Chicago screws". Heck, I think even
mcmaster carries them.

--Glenn Lyford

brass "jiffy" rivets,

....but they are smaller...

so I would use at least two, maybe even three.

(I hate it when my fingers can't keep up with my brain).
--Glenn Lyford

On Sep 22, 2:52*pm, Leon Fisk wrote:

Get a hole punch if you don't already have one.

Wasn't there something about Gunner using firearms for that purpose?
A well perforated belt, being necessary for holding up your pants, the
right to bear arms...

On 2009-09-22, John R. Carroll wrote:
If you'll send some pics of what you want, alomg with enough info for me to
create a solid model, I'll model it up, program it and cut you one Gratis.

I've got Titanium, CRESS, and 304L enough to make anything reasonable but
it could also be cut from A2 or H-13 or even 420SS and then heat treated.
None of those materials are pricey.

You won't live long enough to wear out a hardened A2 or H-13 buckle that's
properly designed and machined from a blank.


Thank you. I am rather considering making my own, given that I have
some materials (inconel welding rods) and it would be a good
practice.

Even brass buckles do not wear out. Right now I am wearing a Soviet
officers belt from a very old time ago (I will check with my dad,
could be 1960s), the buckle is almost as new.

i

On Sep 22, 10:36*am, Ignoramus7937
wrote:
I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

i

Well, I bought a garrison belt at an Army/Navy store when I was about
15. I just turned 64 and have worn it almost every day for the last
25 years. For the 24 years prior to that, it was a couple of days a
week.

But, it's like my great-grandfather's axe. I've replaced the strap at
least 3-4 times, the keeper twice, the buckle once. Just the tongue -
or whatever you call the piece that pivots on the buckle - is
original.

The original cast buckle gave up about 15 years ago, so I made a new
one from 5/16" naval bronze plate. Sawed, milled, shaped and filed to
match the original. That bronze is tough stuff.

Straps were your basic Tandy or equivalent tooling leather, as heavy
as I could find it. Eventually, they stretch and break or break out
the holes. I'm ready for a new one now, and picked up some strips of
heavy harness leather at a local harness maker. I've got three
buckles in process for my sons and a nephew.

I may never need another.

John Martin

On Wed, 23 Sep 2009 10:19:04 -0400, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
Ignoramus7937 wrote:

I hope that they will last my lifetime, I will try to read up on leather
maintenance.

The use of the word "brass" in item 267 is ambiguous, so it probably
refers to the color, not the material, and the buckle is likely made of
brass-plated pot metal.

One can buy buckles made of real brass (I always do), but the wording has
to be unambiguous, like "made of solid brass". Item 67 is clear.


Like the new "golden" dollar? (it sure looks and hefts like brass to me.)
;-)

Cheers!
Rich

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 14:25:21 -0500, Ignoramus7937
wrote:

snip
Leon, I am thinking in the opposite way: to make a buckle for the
current belt whose buckle failed. The leather is so-so, but much
better than the buckle.

What I am considering doing is this.

I have a bunch of 3/16" nickel welding rod, as well as some 5/32"
Inconel welding rod. I could remove the flux from one rod, bend it to
shape, and make a buckle in this manner.

Next time you are around a leather shop, county fair,
tourist trap... take a look at some of the belt buckles on
display/for sale. Should give you some good ideas for making
your own. I KNOW you have enough stuff to make your own
buckles

These would require some stitching, easier just buy one. I
just picked the first example that came via google:

http://www.sullivanuniforms.com/unif...kle+Belts.html

They work pretty well, last me for ten years or so. Working
on my second one right now. Where I used to work wanted us
to wear them so we didn't get blamed for scratching vehicle
fenders while leaning in doing repairs. There is just a
simple metal bar with two hooks trapped in between the
leather cover and belt.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On 2009-09-22, Ignoramus7937 wrote:
I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

Well ... since what is failing is the buckles, why not just get
some quality buckles? I had used several buckles which turned out to be
pot metal, flashed to look like brass, and was looking for something
better. I happened on a street vendor who had a collection of buckles,
including one which was in the shape of a fiddle/violin. I thought
"That looks nice -- but I'll bet that it is pot metal." as I reached to
pick it up. Once I had it in my hand, it was obvious from the weight
that it was sold brass or bronze. This was about 1975 or so, and I am
still wearing it -- on perhaps the third belt. And I typically have a
lot of things hanging from my belt, so they are under stress.

The back of the buckle says "Solid Brass" and "Made in Taiwan",
so the country of manufacture is not even that critical.

You might be able to make your own buckle of good materials, and
put them on the belts from the old buckles -- and keep your eyes open
for somewhere that sells leather working goods, and get the materials
to make your own custom belt.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

Belt -- well cured leather, wide and thick enough to take more
load and wear than you will ever put on it.

Buckle -- good metal -- usually machined instead of cast.

Go to a place which sells firearms and holsters. See what belts
they offer.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2009-09-22, wrote:
On Sep 22, 8:36*am, Ignoramus7937
wrote:
I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and

[ ... ]

The gun shows around here are a good source, if you've got good
buckles from old belts, you can reuse them as long as the end of the
belt has snaps.

Or -- screws and matching "sex screws" to hold it together, as
my current belt has.

The department store belts are sewn together these
days, no snaps, so those are out. Over-priced cardboard crap, too.
I've had them fail in about two weeks.

Ouch! I've not bought any from department stores. But I have
bought some from leather crafters at Science Fiction conventions.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Sep 24, 12:52*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
The gun shows around here are a good source, if you've got good
buckles from old belts, you can reuse them as long as the end of the
belt has snaps.

* * * * Or -- screws and matching "sex screws" to hold it together, as
my current belt has.

* * * * * * * * *The department store belts are sewn together these
days, no snaps, so *those are out. *Over-priced cardboard crap, too..
I've had them fail in about two weeks.

* * * * Ouch! *I've not bought any from department stores. *But I have
bought some from leather crafters at Science Fiction conventions.

* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

Snaps? Sex screws?

Copper belt rivets and burs. #8 or #10 are good sizes for heavy
belts. Punch the holes, insert the rivet, put the bur on and drive it
down, cut the rivet to length and set with a ball pein hammer.
Permanent.

John Martin

wrote in news:527015b7-1724-43a6-a05e-
:

On Sep 22, 8:36*am, Ignoramus7937
wrote:
I had two cheap leather belts fail recently. Their buckles were made
from some sort of cast potmetal, although they looked stainless and
polished. At some point they just snap and break, one broke when I
dropped the belt to the floor, and the other did so without any
reason. As of now, all I have left, is a old Soviet officers leather
belt from the 60's, the kind without insignia. In any case, I would
like to buy some decent US made leather belt, with a decent buckle,
something to wear for decades etc.

I do not understand what makes a good belt, besides some obvious
considerations, so I wanted to hear what other people know about it.

I used to get good belt blanks from Tandy, dye them when needed and
give them a good shot of finish. They'd last about 10 years, I'd reuse
the buckles as they stretched out. The blanks got expensive and
eventually Tandy got out of retailing, I've been told they still are
on the web, though.

There are still a few retail outlets around. The only one in eastern
Massachusetts is in Chelmsford, and my old belt is about dead. I've been
meaning to get up there for about a year. My belt's got a basketweave
pattern embossed on it, but the newer basketweave pattern they sell isn't
quite as nice.

The gun shows around here are a good source, if you've got good
buckles from old belts, you can reuse them as long as the end of the
belt has snaps. The department store belts are sewn together these
days, no snaps, so those are out. Over-priced cardboard crap, too.
I've had them fail in about two weeks.

I used to collect buckles and have some nice ones from Smith & Wesson,
and one from Ruger. There are quite a few gun themed buckles around, and
many are high quality. However, some are also junk. I've bought a
couple "pewter" buckles that are mostly lead.

I got some very nice nickle silver ones from a guy who made & sold them
from a stall in San Francisco 30 years ago. The one I wear now is a ~ 2
1/2" diameter silver medal I won target shooting. I made a back for it
out of a disk of 50 mil SS sheet, with 1/8" diameter SS rod silver
soldered into holes to make a hook and a loop for the belt. If folks are
interested, I can fire up my camera & take a few snap shots. I made a
spare back for a gold medal I've got, but I prefer the look of silver &
never glued them together.

Doug White

On 2009-09-24, wrote:
On Sep 24, 12:52*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
The gun shows around here are a good source, if you've got good
buckles from old belts, you can reuse them as long as the end of the
belt has snaps.

* * * * Or -- screws and matching "sex screws" to hold it together, as
my current belt has.

[ ... ]

Snaps? Sex screws?

Sex screws are screw heads with an internally threaded hole into
which a matching head screw fits. One is what is on my current belt,
and it has lasted through several belts, following the buckle as the
heavy loads on my belt wore out the leather.

Copper belt rivets and burs. #8 or #10 are good sizes for heavy
belts. Punch the holes, insert the rivet, put the bur on and drive it
down, cut the rivet to length and set with a ball pein hammer.
Permanent.

Fine -- if you never need to change the buckle on that belt.
Except that you have to get another rivet whenever you move the buckle
to a new belt.

Snaps let you swap the buckle between belts if you have a dresss
belt for occasional wear and a rough use belt for everyday -- and you
like the buckle enough to want to swap it between belts. But -- you
need new snaps for each new belt -- and it may not come with snaps.

With the sex screws, you simply move them with the buckle.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I made one that looked like a miniature horse shoe from hot roll
steel using torch and hammer. I've been using it for almost 40
years.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Ignoramus7937" wrote in
message ...
On 2009-09-22, Leon Fisk wrote:
Make your own Iggy. With the Tandy kits it is pretty simple.
Find a decent buckle and keep recycling it. My buckles must
all be ~35 years old by now

See:

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/h...vlocation=left

Haven't bought any for years, but usually go for something
like this:

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/h...ture=Product_5

Get a hole punch if you don't already have one.


Leon, I am thinking in the opposite way: to make a buckle for
the
current belt whose buckle failed. The leather is so-so, but much
better than the buckle.

What I am considering doing is this.

I have a bunch of 3/16" nickel welding rod, as well as some
5/32"
Inconel welding rod. I could remove the flux from one rod, bend
it to
shape, and make a buckle in this manner.

i

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in
:
snip
Fine -- if you never need to change the buckle on that belt.
Except that you have to get another rivet whenever you move the buckle
to a new belt.

Snaps let you swap the buckle between belts if you have a dresss
belt for occasional wear and a rough use belt for everyday -- and you
like the buckle enough to want to swap it between belts. But -- you
need new snaps for each new belt -- and it may not come with snaps.

Snaps are an advantage if you travel. My buckle is heavy enough that it
will set off an airport metal detector. Rather than having to remove my
entire belt, I can snap off the buckle in a few seconds, toss it in the
bin with my change & keys, and go through airport security without a
hiccup. The big savings is that I can snap it back on, as opposed to
having to re-thread my entire belt.

Doug White