As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

"stryped" wrote in message
...
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

I'll make a general comment on image 55. As you run romex cable, you have to
unwind it so that there are no twists. If you're pulling it out of the
middle of the box, you have to whip it around to take the turns out. The
other way is to pull it off the outside of the coil with the coil turning.
Then you staple it tight and pull it straight and use the next staple to
keep it straight and aligned with the edge of the stud or joist. There
should be no twists between staples.

I'll make a general comment on image 55. As you run romex cable, you have
to unwind it so that there are no twists. If you're pulling it out of the
middle of the box, you have to whip it around to take the turns out. The
other way is to pull it off the outside of the coil with the coil turning.

There's and easier way to keep it straight. Take it out of the box. Pul
thrre turns off holding in your left hand off the left side. Switch, take
three turns off in your right hand off the right side and so on. The turns
cancel and its straight.

Karl

stryped wrote:
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/


Get rid of the twists, I do not like the jumps from truss to truss one
bit, even if they would pass code, which I doubt, unless you close the
ceiling, they are begging to have stuff hung on them or snagged on them.
Run it neat and clean, no diagonals, radius the corners neatly, and
dress the stuff out like a pro.


Oh yeah, double your fire policy, and your liability one too.

On Sep 7, 10:38*pm, Stuart Wheaton wrote:
stryped wrote:
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

Get rid of the twists, I do not like the jumps from truss to truss one
bit, even if they would pass code, which I doubt, unless you close the
ceiling, they are begging to have stuff hung on them or snagged on them.
* Run it neat and clean, no diagonals, radius the corners neatly, and
dress the stuff out like a pro.

Oh yeah, double your fire policy, and your liability one too.

Does it not look neat the way I did it?

I plan on runnign 2x4's between the studs where the wires run across.
And I plan on finishign the ceiling in osb.

Oh yeah, double your fire policy, and your liability one too.

Are you saying my wiring looks unsafe?

On Sep 8, 9:09*am, stryped wrote:
Oh yeah, double your fire policy, and your liability one too.

Are you saying my wiring looks unsafe?

Using the neutral bus for the ground wires would NEVER pass and is
unsafe. My inspector would say something about the neatness in the
box. He would also say something about the twists and wires crossing
on top of other wires. I'm not sure if he wouldn't approve it, just
that he would say something.

On Sep 8, 10:33*am, Jesse wrote:
On Sep 8, 9:09*am, stryped wrote:

Oh yeah, double your fire policy, and your liability one too.

Are you saying my wiring looks unsafe?

Using the neutral bus for the ground wires would NEVER pass and is
unsafe. My inspector would say something about the neatness in the
box. He would also say something about the twists and wires crossing
on top of other wires. I'm not sure if he wouldn't approve it, just
that he would say something.

I did not use the neutral bus bar for grounds. As I said, my box is
upside down because the instructions told me to do it that way if it
was beign bottom fed. My ground bus is on the left, my neutral is on
the right.

Not sure what you mean by "wres crossing on top of other wires". I
tried to use cable stackers where I could.

I wanted it to look neat but am having trouble figuring out how to run
everything. What can i do to make the box appear "neater"?

stryped wrote in news:89d610e5-8cc7-4b6b-b6e2-
:

I did not use the neutral bus bar for grounds. As I said, my box is
upside down because the instructions told me to do it that way if it
was beign bottom fed. My ground bus is on the left, my neutral is on
the right.

That's some F'd up panel design. Why make a panel with a insulated bus on
one side and make it suitable for grounds with a bonding screw then stick a
ground only strip beside it. Pull the screw out and what happens, it
floats? Hey it's isolated ground ready. Sometime I actually wish for that,
but not something that should be available at the average home center.

So if you were to enter a cable on that side and you for some reason chose
to have that mystery buss bonded to ground instead of jumped to neutral you
have to wrap the 'neutral' wires all the way around to the other side of
the panel to hit the neutral bar?

Every major brand in current production I have seen has a neutral bus on
each side. Who makes this thing anyway? I can't quite make out the name
on the breakers.

They say the CEC code is being harmonized with the NEC, hope crap like that
doesn't start showing up around here.

stryped wrote in news:865b7e7c-d29b-4eae-ac8c-
:

As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/


First - Get your grounds off the neutral bus! They go on the other
strip directly bolted to the metal housing of the panel.

Cable jacket shouldn't enter the box more than about 1/4"

A pro would leave 8-10" of cable outside the box and staple it, work his
way to the next box and then when all the cable pulling and stapling was
done switch tool pouches and go back around and strip 6" off the
jackets. Then they get shoved into the box until the jacket is just past
the clamp, any little extra slack is left outside the box. The splicing
would also be done at this point.
Way easier than trying to get a knife into the back of the box to strip
the jacket cleanly.

Codes vary from area to area but around here if the headroom above the
bottom truss chord exceeds 3' then you can't run over the tops of the
truss like you have. And since you can't drill an engineered truss
wires would be stapled to the sides of the truss where they go parallel.
Where they have to go perpendicular then they first go out towards the
eave until headroom is below 3' before they jump on top or they can be
on top of a continous running board. Conviently the roof framers give a
nice running board in the form of the strapping that stabilizes and
spaces the bottom truss chords. The idea is you won't subject the
cables to damage from crawling around and piling stuff for storage that
way.

I wouldn't put staples as close as you have to some of your boxes, 6-
12" is good. Holes for cables run through studs are usually at a
consistent height about 12" away from the box. That gives you room to
put a staple where it goes up to a box.

I dont know that you ned to worry about the truss plates that much.
Running across the face of them shouldn't require any special treatment.
Just stay away from the edges.

A board or two nailed between the studs above the panel will give you a
place to staple and provide room so your cables aren't excessively
bundled.

"Charles U Farley" wrote in message
...
stryped wrote in news:865b7e7c-d29b-4eae-ac8c-
:

As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/


First - Get your grounds off the neutral bus! They go on the other
strip directly bolted to the metal housing of the panel.

And don't send that screw in to bond the neutral bus to the box, that's not
for subpanels. All the wires should be straight as they exit breakers and
busses and then radius.


Cable jacket shouldn't enter the box more than about 1/4"

A pro would leave 8-10" of cable outside the box and staple it, work his
way to the next box and then when all the cable pulling and stapling was
done switch tool pouches and go back around and strip 6" off the
jackets. Then they get shoved into the box until the jacket is just past
the clamp, any little extra slack is left outside the box. The splicing
would also be done at this point.
Way easier than trying to get a knife into the back of the box to strip
the jacket cleanly.

Codes vary from area to area but around here if the headroom above the
bottom truss chord exceeds 3' then you can't run over the tops of the
truss like you have. And since you can't drill an engineered truss
wires would be stapled to the sides of the truss where they go parallel.
Where they have to go perpendicular then they first go out towards the
eave until headroom is below 3' before they jump on top or they can be
on top of a continous running board. Conviently the roof framers give a
nice running board in the form of the strapping that stabilizes and
spaces the bottom truss chords. The idea is you won't subject the
cables to damage from crawling around and piling stuff for storage that
way.

I wouldn't put staples as close as you have to some of your boxes, 6-
12" is good. Holes for cables run through studs are usually at a
consistent height about 12" away from the box. That gives you room to
put a staple where it goes up to a box.

We used to drill about hip height for runs through studs. It's a convenient
place to hold the drill and also to pull the cable. Some guys like to use a
long nail-eater auger bit and angle the drill, I prefer a short bit on a
right angle drill, it's a little slower but the holes are all straight which
makes pulling a little easier.

"stryped" wrote in message
...
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

Looks good to me man, drive on. Are you going to sheet rock and insulate
this building?

On Sep 8, 1:40*am, "Tim" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message

...

As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

Looks good to me man, drive on. Are you going to sheet rock and insulate
this building?

I am going to insulate it. I am toyign with the idea of using 7/16 osb
for the walls and ceiling.

Also, my neutals are in the neutral bus bar and my grounds are in the
grounding buss bar. The picture may be deceptive because the panel is
upside down. (Read my previous postings). My panel said to mount it
upside down if it was going to be bottom fed.

stryped wrote:
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

This is not a comment on the job in the photos, but is anybody else
terrified when they see romex and plastic boxes?

On Wed, 9 Sep 2009 03:31:33 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

stryped wrote:
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

This is not a comment on the job in the photos, but is anybody else
terrified when they see romex and plastic boxes?


What scared me was when I replaced a light switch in my BiL's mobile
in Florida and found a type of wiring more suited to low grade signal
wiring; no box as such, just a plastic cover over the back of the
switch which was held in place in the hole in the paneling by bend
down metal tabs, with the wires punched down in slots like telephone
wiring. It did specify no more than two wires per slot. Imagine
something like this combined with Aluminium wiring!
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Wed, 09 Sep 2009 00:27:13 -0400, Gerald Miller
wrote:

On Wed, 9 Sep 2009 03:31:33 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

stryped wrote:
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

This is not a comment on the job in the photos, but is anybody else
terrified when they see romex and plastic boxes?


What scared me was when I replaced a light switch in my BiL's mobile
in Florida and found a type of wiring more suited to low grade signal
wiring; no box as such, just a plastic cover over the back of the
switch which was held in place in the hole in the paneling by bend
down metal tabs, with the wires punched down in slots like telephone
wiring. It did specify no more than two wires per slot. Imagine
something like this combined with Aluminium wiring!
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada


Ive seen em before. And I suspect they burned down at least 2 mobile
homes that Im aware of.

Gunner

The current Democratic party has lost its ideological basis for
existence.
- It is NOT fiscally responsible.
- It is NOT ethically honorable.
- It has started wars based on lies.
- It does not support the well-being of americans - only billionaires.
- It has suppresed constitutional guaranteed liberties.
- It has foisted a liar as president upon America.
- It has violated US national sovereignty in trade treaties.
- It has refused to enforce the national borders.

....It no longer has valid reasons to exist.
Lorad474

On Sep 8, 11:27*pm, Gerald Miller wrote:
On Wed, 9 Sep 2009 03:31:33 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader

wrote:
stryped wrote:
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

This is not a comment on the job in the photos, but is anybody else
terrified when they see romex and plastic boxes?

What scared me was when I replaced a light switch in my BiL's mobile
in Florida and found a type of wiring more suited to low grade signal
wiring; no box as such, just a plastic cover over the back of the
switch which was held in place in the hole in the paneling by bend
down metal tabs, with the wires punched down in slots like telephone
wiring. It did specify no more than two wires per slot. Imagine
something like this combined with Aluminium wiring!
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Are plastic boxes ok and allowed ot use in a detatched building if the
walls are left open?

"stryped" wrote in message
...
On Sep 8, 11:27 pm, Gerald Miller wrote:
On Wed, 9 Sep 2009 03:31:33 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader

wrote:
stryped wrote:
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

This is not a comment on the job in the photos, but is anybody else
terrified when they see romex and plastic boxes?

What scared me was when I replaced a light switch in my BiL's mobile
in Florida and found a type of wiring more suited to low grade signal
wiring; no box as such, just a plastic cover over the back of the
switch which was held in place in the hole in the paneling by bend
down metal tabs, with the wires punched down in slots like telephone
wiring. It did specify no more than two wires per slot. Imagine
something like this combined with Aluminium wiring!
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

-Are plastic boxes ok and allowed ot use in a detatched building if the
-walls are left open?

If the walls are open, you should use at least a plastic box made to attach
to PCV conduit, and run the wire in PVC conduit. All exposed electrical
wiring should be in conduit.

On Wed, 9 Sep 2009 05:25:08 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Sep 8, 11:27*pm, Gerald Miller wrote:
On Wed, 9 Sep 2009 03:31:33 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader

wrote:
stryped wrote:
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

This is not a comment on the job in the photos, but is anybody else
terrified when they see romex and plastic boxes?

What scared me was when I replaced a light switch in my BiL's mobile
in Florida and found a type of wiring more suited to low grade signal
wiring; no box as such, just a plastic cover over the back of the
switch which was held in place in the hole in the paneling by bend
down metal tabs, with the wires punched down in slots like telephone
wiring. It did specify no more than two wires per slot. Imagine
something like this combined with Aluminium wiring!
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Are plastic boxes ok and allowed ot use in a detatched building if the
walls are left open?

Yes - but only if you are using solvent-welded plastic conduit
between the boxes. And that's a pain in the butt to work with - the
only time you do that is on a boathouse or other Wet Location. Or you
are putting the plastic conduit inside a block or brick wall. Poured
concrete floor slab, etc.

Romex can NOT be left in an exposed garage or outbuilding wall that is
not finished, it is not protected from damage.

Plastic boxes are rarely used for Flex conduit or BX/MC cable in an
exposed wall situation like that, you use steel 4S boxes and either
raised surface covers (Raco 902 or eq.) or mud rings and regular
plates. And the prices are about the same.

I've reworked a wood framed house in exposed plastic conduit like
that, but this house was the exception to the rule - built up on
pilings 10' over the mean high-tide line of the beach in Malibu. When
they got Plus Tides on full moons, the bottom of the house got
splashed with salt water from hitting the concrete septic tank
partially buried in the sand. I doubt you have to deal with that...

Flat roof and exposed wood and beam ceilings, so all the circuits
extending from the main panel over to the various bedrooms and kitchen
circuits went under the floor. Originally done in EMT "because it's
legal..." (but not very smart) when we got there it was exposed wires
and a few rust flakes... Had to redo all the Home Runs.

* * * * * *

Oh, and you mentioned elsewhere using OSB for the ceiling or walls of
your new shop area - DONT. Drywall is fire resistant when properly
primed and painted, OSB most assuredly isn't.

You'll be welding at 8 PM and quit to go to bed, a spark will fly
into a corner and smolder for hours, and at 2 AM you wake up to find
the garage fully involved. Obviously, this is a problem...

-- Bruce --

On Wed, 9 Sep 2009 03:31:33 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

stryped wrote:
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

This is not a comment on the job in the photos, but is anybody else
terrified when they see romex and plastic boxes?


No. Should we be?

Gunner

The current Democratic party has lost its ideological basis for
existence.
- It is NOT fiscally responsible.
- It is NOT ethically honorable.
- It has started wars based on lies.
- It does not support the well-being of americans - only billionaires.
- It has suppresed constitutional guaranteed liberties.
- It has foisted a liar as president upon America.
- It has violated US national sovereignty in trade treaties.
- It has refused to enforce the national borders.

....It no longer has valid reasons to exist.
Lorad474

On Wed, 09 Sep 2009 00:02:36 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote:

The current Democratic party has lost its ideological basis for existence.
- It is NOT fiscally responsible.
- It is NOT ethically honorable.
- It has started wars based on lies.
- It does not support the well-being of americans - only billionaires. -
It has suppresed constitutional guaranteed liberties. - It has foisted a
liar as president upon America. - It has violated US national sovereignty
in trade treaties. - It has refused to enforce the national borders.

...It no longer has valid reasons to exist.


Huh. Imagine my surprise - you could substitute "Republican" for "Democrat"
up there and the whole schmear would still be totally accurate.

Sigh.
Rich

On Fri, 11 Sep 2009 09:23:43 -0600, Steve Ackman wrote:
14:36:10 -0700, Richard the Dreaded Libertarian,
On Wed, 09 Sep 2009 00:02:36 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote:

The current Democratic party has lost its ideological basis for
existence. - It is NOT fiscally responsible.
- It is NOT ethically honorable.
- It has started wars based on lies.
- It does not support the well-being of americans - only billionaires.
- It has suppresed constitutional guaranteed liberties. - It has
foisted a liar as president upon America. - It has violated US national
sovereignty in trade treaties. - It has refused to enforce the national
borders.

...It no longer has valid reasons to exist.

Huh. Imagine my surprise - you could substitute "Republican" for
"Democrat" up there and the whole schmear would still be totally
accurate.

Republicrats, Demopublicans.
Tomato, Tomahto.

;-)

Thanks!
Rich

On Wed, 09 Sep 2009 00:02:36 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 9 Sep 2009 03:31:33 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

stryped wrote:
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

This is not a comment on the job in the photos, but is anybody else
terrified when they see romex and plastic boxes?


No. Should we be?

Yes, you should. Even if he can get away with doing it that way
doesn't make it 'right' or proper workmanship.

Because you and I grew up in urban areas with fairly stringent (but
equitable) building codes, and good enforcement, so you know Right and
Wrong when you see it.

For a ranch or a cabin in a rural area where the Rancher or Farm
Hands do all the wiring, they only worry about expediency and nobody
ever checks up on them, you'll see some really odd ****...

But Pure Stupidity tends to be self-correcting, especially if they
are a half-hour drive (or more) away from the closest fire station,
and they have to deal with the results of their own errors...

If you hang your shingle as an Electrician (or a General who does
his own Specialty work rather than sub it out), you have to really
know what you are doing...

How the Codes work and WHY they are written the way they are -
Deconstruction is important. Because when you need to do something
that isn't explicitly covered by the existing Code rules, you can mix
and match different practices and materials from the existing sections
to make the end product safe.

(But you have to be able to defend your decisions and methods. Not
difficult if you understand what you did, and it isn't just working by
rote - "Go to the Freezer, Get the Box.")

-- Bruce --

On Wed, 09 Sep 2009 03:31:33 +0000, Cydrome Leader wrote:
stryped wrote:
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a little
trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful advice is
appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

This is not a comment on the job in the photos, but is anybody else
terrified when they see romex and plastic boxes?

Nah - just connect the bare (or green) wire to the green screw on the
outlet.

Cheers!
Rich

On Mon, 7 Sep 2009 17:36:33 -0700 (PDT), stryped wrote:

As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/


My question would be:-
Are you proposing to insulate between the studs?
If so, is the cable size correctly calculated for being inside insulation
instead of free-air or clipped-to-surface?

The difference in current carrying capacity for the two situations can be
1:1.5 depending on cable size.


Mark Rand
RTFM

On Thu, 10 Sep 2009 21:03:57 +0100, Mark Rand
wrote:

On Mon, 7 Sep 2009 17:36:33 -0700 (PDT), stryped wrote:

As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/


My question would be:-
Are you proposing to insulate between the studs?
If so, is the cable size correctly calculated for being inside insulation
instead of free-air or clipped-to-surface?

The difference in current carrying capacity for the two situations can be
1:1.5 depending on cable size.


Mark Rand
RTFM

There's already a big derate built into the Code for that on branch
circuit uses. If you look it up on the load charts, technically #12
THHN is good for 30 to 35 amps or so (not going to look it up now) -
but by Code you can only feed it at 20A.

Same thing with #14 and #10.

You do have to worry about it for larger circuits, but that is the
time you are mathing it all out anyway.

Stryped: Get someone local to come in and critique your work - get a
building permit and the local inspector will be glad to do it for you.

If you don't want the hassles, get a local electrician and a case of
good beer to entice him over.

-- Bruce --

On Sep 7, 8:36*pm, stryped wrote:
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

I also don't see a grounding wire going to a ground rod.

Jesse wrote:
On Sep 7, 8:36 pm, stryped wrote:
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

I also don't see a grounding wire going to a ground rod.


The sole ground rod should be at the service entrance panel. Multiple
rods can create ground loops.

On Mon, 14 Sep 2009 17:27:47 -0400, Stuart Wheaton wrote:
Jesse wrote:
On Sep 7, 8:36 pm, stryped wrote:
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful advice
is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

I also don't see a grounding wire going to a ground rod.

The sole ground rod should be at the service entrance panel. Multiple
rods can create ground loops.

Multiple rods can give you a better earth ground, but, of course, they
ALL have to lead to the one "main" grounding point.

Cheers!
Rich

Stuart Wheaton wrote:


I also don't see a grounding wire going to a ground rod.


The sole ground rod should be at the service entrance panel.
Depending on the installation the NEC requires additional ones for
separate buildings, in some cases.

Multiple
rods can create ground loops.
When improperly installed.


jk