Now this 3 phase mill can run from single phase (regular 220v plug),
it stops in 0.5 seconds thanks to electric braking, and it also
reverses, which is something it was not capable of before.

In addition to the old gearbox speed changer, speed can also be varied
with a pot (0-60 Hz).

All of the above make this machine more desirable.

http://yabe.algebra.com/~ichudov/mis...25-Mill-Drill/

Ignoramus7041 wrote in news:-
:

http://yabe.algebra.com/~ichudov/mis...25-Mill-Drill/

Ahhhh! Ventilated electronics enclosure mounted below the table of a
metalworking machine tool.
runs and hides

On 2009-08-30, Charles U Farley wrote:
Ignoramus7041 wrote in news:-
:

http://yabe.algebra.com/~ichudov/mis...25-Mill-Drill/

Ahhhh! Ventilated electronics enclosure mounted below the table of a
metalworking machine tool.
runs and hides

Yes, good point, I was going to put a cover above it. Have not gotten
to it yet.

i

Do you know if the company is still in business for parts?

My Arboga radial arm drill broke the power down while doing a 3" hole this
summer. Its on my winter repair list.

Karl

On 2009-08-30, Karl Townsend wrote:
Do you know if the company is still in business for parts?

My Arboga radial arm drill broke the power down while doing a 3" hole this
summer. Its on my winter repair list.


Do you know what broke exactly?

I looked and could not find their website, I suspect that they were
bought out by Wilton (WMH tool group).

i

Do you know if the company is still in business for parts?

My Arboga radial arm drill broke the power down while doing a 3" hole
this
summer. Its on my winter repair list.


Do you know what broke exactly?

Nope, I just engaged the power down and it wasn't there any more. Means you
got to stand there and push down by hand - sux on a deep large hole.

Karl

On 2009-08-31, Karl Townsend wrote:

Do you know if the company is still in business for parts?

My Arboga radial arm drill broke the power down while doing a 3" hole
this
summer. Its on my winter repair list.


Do you know what broke exactly?

Nope, I just engaged the power down and it wasn't there any more. Means you
got to stand there and push down by hand - sux on a deep large hole.

This makes me hope that it is something simple, some intentional weak
link. Maybe there is some roll pin that is purposely made to break
under excess load.

i

Do you know what broke exactly?

Nope, I just engaged the power down and it wasn't there any more. Means
you
got to stand there and push down by hand - sux on a deep large hole.

This makes me hope that it is something simple, some intentional weak
link. Maybe there is some roll pin that is purposely made to break
under excess load.

Very likely, being able to talk to somebody that knows this machine or
having an assembly drawing would be worth its weight in gold.

Karl

On Sun, 30 Aug 2009 16:20:51 -0500, Ignoramus7041
wrote:

Now this 3 phase mill can run from single phase (regular 220v plug),
it stops in 0.5 seconds thanks to electric braking, and it also
reverses, which is something it was not capable of before.

In addition to the old gearbox speed changer, speed can also be varied
with a pot (0-60 Hz).

All of the above make this machine more desirable.

http://yabe.algebra.com/~ichudov/mis...25-Mill-Drill/


Seriously big pending ****up. That VFD needs to go on the BACKSIDE of
the mill column.

You are going to get chips down into the top of it in its present
location and all the magic smoke is going to come out of it.

At the very very least..put a horizontal thin plate aprox 1" above the
upper vent grid to protect it from **** going down the grid.

Trust me on this. It WILL happen.


Gunner

Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
something damned nasty to all three of them.

On 2009-08-31, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 30 Aug 2009 16:20:51 -0500, Ignoramus7041
wrote:

Now this 3 phase mill can run from single phase (regular 220v plug),
it stops in 0.5 seconds thanks to electric braking, and it also
reverses, which is something it was not capable of before.

In addition to the old gearbox speed changer, speed can also be varied
with a pot (0-60 Hz).

All of the above make this machine more desirable.

http://yabe.algebra.com/~ichudov/mis...25-Mill-Drill/


Seriously big pending ****up. That VFD needs to go on the BACKSIDE of
the mill column.

You are going to get chips down into the top of it in its present
location and all the magic smoke is going to come out of it.

At the very very least..put a horizontal thin plate aprox 1" above the
upper vent grid to protect it from **** going down the grid.

Trust me on this. It WILL happen.

Yes, I will put some sort of a thin plate over it asap.

Good catch Gunner. I actually thought to do it, then completely
forgot.

I am reluctant to put it on the back, it will make it hard to
program.

i

On Sun, 30 Aug 2009 19:16:19 -0500, Ignoramus7041
wrote:

On 2009-08-31, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 30 Aug 2009 16:20:51 -0500, Ignoramus7041
wrote:

Now this 3 phase mill can run from single phase (regular 220v plug),
it stops in 0.5 seconds thanks to electric braking, and it also
reverses, which is something it was not capable of before.

In addition to the old gearbox speed changer, speed can also be varied
with a pot (0-60 Hz).

All of the above make this machine more desirable.

http://yabe.algebra.com/~ichudov/mis...25-Mill-Drill/


Seriously big pending ****up. That VFD needs to go on the BACKSIDE of
the mill column.

You are going to get chips down into the top of it in its present
location and all the magic smoke is going to come out of it.

At the very very least..put a horizontal thin plate aprox 1" above the
upper vent grid to protect it from **** going down the grid.

Trust me on this. It WILL happen.

Yes, I will put some sort of a thin plate over it asap.

Good catch Gunner. I actually thought to do it, then completely
forgot.

I am reluctant to put it on the back, it will make it hard to
program.

i

You already have a "remote control" that sets forward/off/reverse and
speed, right?

A simple Form C toggle switch and a pot in a tiny little box mounted
somewhere on the face of the machine.

Right?

Ive got a number of mills with the VFD mounted in boxes on the wall
Behind the mill, with the simple control device mounted on the head.

Its not rocket science, and it makes the machine safe, secure and
unlikely for the magic smoke to come out.

And its quite easy to simply change the wiring on the existing power
switch to run directly to the VFD and the head switch (I didnt check)
control the VFD, rather than the 3ph power directly.


Gunner


Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
something damned nasty to all three of them.

On 2009-08-31, Gunner Asch wrote:
You already have a "remote control" that sets forward/off/reverse and
speed, right?

Yes

A simple Form C toggle switch and a pot in a tiny little box mounted
somewhere on the face of the machine.

Right?

Exactly.

Ive got a number of mills with the VFD mounted in boxes on the wall
Behind the mill, with the simple control device mounted on the head.

Its not rocket science, and it makes the machine safe, secure and
unlikely for the magic smoke to come out.

And its quite easy to simply change the wiring on the existing power
switch to run directly to the VFD and the head switch (I didnt check)
control the VFD, rather than the 3ph power directly.

Well, yes, but it is an on/off switch, and I need a forward/reverse
switch.

Anyway, I did put a cover over the top of the VFD last night, it
should be fine as is.

i

In article ,
Ignoramus25738 wrote:

On 2009-08-31, Gunner Asch wrote:
You already have a "remote control" that sets forward/off/reverse and
speed, right?

Yes

A simple Form C toggle switch and a pot in a tiny little box mounted
somewhere on the face of the machine.

Right?

Exactly.

Ive got a number of mills with the VFD mounted in boxes on the wall
Behind the mill, with the simple control device mounted on the head.

Its not rocket science, and it makes the machine safe, secure and
unlikely for the magic smoke to come out.

And its quite easy to simply change the wiring on the existing power
switch to run directly to the VFD and the head switch (I didn't check)
control the VFD, rather than the 3ph power directly.

Well, yes, but it is an on/off switch, and I need a forward/reverse
switch.

Anyway, I did put a cover over the top of the VFD last night, it
should be fine as is.

Chips are far too clever for a simple cover to work for very long,
unless the cover is so tight that airflow is blocked. One can cut the
leakage rate down with some fine-mesh metal screening, but even that
isn't perfect.

Real factories often put the VFDs in a closed metal box, precisely to
protect the VFD from factory dust, dirt, chips, gasses, et al. And from
confused button-pushers, but that's another story.

It's easy to build a remote-control box for a VFD, which is mounted up
high on the wall, behind the mill, out of the chip impact zone. Put the
VFD's displays at eye height and programming (a rare activity) is easy
enough.

Joe Gwinn

On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 07:12:52 -0500, Ignoramus25738
wrote:

On 2009-08-31, Gunner Asch wrote:
You already have a "remote control" that sets forward/off/reverse and
speed, right?

Yes

A simple Form C toggle switch and a pot in a tiny little box mounted
somewhere on the face of the machine.

Right?

Exactly.

Ive got a number of mills with the VFD mounted in boxes on the wall
Behind the mill, with the simple control device mounted on the head.

Its not rocket science, and it makes the machine safe, secure and
unlikely for the magic smoke to come out.

And its quite easy to simply change the wiring on the existing power
switch to run directly to the VFD and the head switch (I didnt check)
control the VFD, rather than the 3ph power directly.

Well, yes, but it is an on/off switch, and I need a forward/reverse
switch.

Anyway, I did put a cover over the top of the VFD last night, it
should be fine as is.

i

Lets hope so. Though I suspect, based on my years as a machine tool
mechanic in commercial machine shops...that it wont blow up until the
new owners uses it for more than 30 days...or maybe not. Shrug...

Gunner

Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
something damned nasty to all three of them.

In addition to the old gearbox speed changer, speed can also be varied
with a pot (0-60 Hz).


I have a TECO FM-50 for a 2HP Bridgeport. A pot and on-off switches
in a separate box would be a lot more convenient. What are typical
specs for a potentiometer for one of these? Something I could pick up
at Radio Shack or do I need to order on line? Under what section of
the manual would you go looking for specs if it's something that
varies by manufacturer and model? I only read enough of the manual to
get my mill up and running so I could play with it. Now that I've had
it for several months, it's time to make improvements.

RWL

On 2009-09-01, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane wrote:

In addition to the old gearbox speed changer, speed can also be varied
with a pot (0-60 Hz).


I have a TECO FM-50 for a 2HP Bridgeport. A pot and on-off switches
in a separate box would be a lot more convenient. What are typical
specs for a potentiometer for one of these? Something I could pick up
at Radio Shack or do I need to order on line? Under what section of
the manual would you go looking for specs if it's something that
varies by manufacturer and model? I only read enough of the manual to
get my mill up and running so I could play with it. Now that I've had
it for several months, it's time to make improvements.

Your VFD manual does not seem to say what the rating for the pot
should be. Mine said, IIRC, that it should be between 1k and 10k. I
used a 1k pot because I have a few of those. 5k should work well. You
can call Teco and ask to be sure.

If you want a pot and an on-off switch, then you can buy a pot with a
built in switch, those are widely available. They have two contacts
for a switch and three for a pot, usually they click and turn off when
fully turned counterclockwise. So you can wire that switch to turn off
the current when the switch is off, and turn on and ramp up the
frequency as you turn the knob clockwise.

Now if you want a pot and a forward/off/reverse switch, then you need
to have them separately, pretty much.

It is really up to you as to what you want, for instance whether you
want to power tap on the mill.

Radio Shack could be pricey, but the easiest option of all. Most
likely you need a 5k pot.

i

On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 21:48:17 -0400, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote:


In addition to the old gearbox speed changer, speed can also be varied
with a pot (0-60 Hz).


I have a TECO FM-50 for a 2HP Bridgeport. A pot and on-off switches
in a separate box would be a lot more convenient. What are typical
specs for a potentiometer for one of these? Something I could pick up
at Radio Shack or do I need to order on line? Under what section of
the manual would you go looking for specs if it's something that
varies by manufacturer and model? I only read enough of the manual to
get my mill up and running so I could play with it. Now that I've had
it for several months, it's time to make improvements.

RWL


Look in the wiring diagrams and it should show you what value the pot is
supposed to be.

Generally....0-5k...some are 0-10k, others are different.

This is not something to guess at.

If you do..you will never get it going fast enough...or ever get it
going, or ever get it going slow enough.....

G

Gunner

Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
something damned nasty to all three of them.

On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 21:48:17 -0400, GeoLane at PTD dot NET
GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote:


In addition to the old gearbox speed changer, speed can also be varied
with a pot (0-60 Hz).


I have a TECO FM-50 for a 2HP Bridgeport. A pot and on-off switches
in a separate box would be a lot more convenient. What are typical
specs for a potentiometer for one of these? Something I could pick up
at Radio Shack or do I need to order on line? Under what section of
the manual would you go looking for specs if it's something that
varies by manufacturer and model? I only read enough of the manual to
get my mill up and running so I could play with it. Now that I've had
it for several months, it's time to make improvements.

RWL

VFDs supply the speed pot from a low impedance DC
source typically 10V or less and the pot slider is almost
completely unloaded. This makes the choice of pot value very non
critical - any pot resistance between 3 and 10kohm is typically
recommended as suitable and an even wider range would make little
difference.

Power dissipation is also very low. Even in the worst
case scenario, with the lowest value pot, dissipation is much
less than 1/4W so even small radio type pots are perfectly
usable. However you may prefer the mechanical ruggedness of a pot
with higher power rating.

What is seldom mentioned, but important in practice,
is the resistance law. Most wirewound and many film pots are
linear law which is not very suitable for a machine tool working
over a wide range of work/cutter diameter and speeds. The useful
low speed end is limited to narrow region near anticlockwise.
What is preferable is is a log law pot as this opens up the low
speed end and gives a close approximation to equal % speed change
for equal pot angle change over the whole speed range.

Log law radio type pots are easy to find but heavy duty
types are much less common. A solution that I find preferable is
switched speed setting. The 12 step series resistor sequence

100 Ohm
120
150
180
270
330
390
470
560
680
820
Gives a constant 20% speed change per step which is about
as close as is ever needed in typical machine tool use
For more VFD information try "Electric Motors"- second
edition- Jim Cox
Pentagrid

GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote:

In addition to the old gearbox speed changer, speed can also be varied
with a pot (0-60 Hz).

I have a TECO FM-50 for a 2HP Bridgeport. A pot and on-off switches
in a separate box would be a lot more convenient. What are typical
specs for a potentiometer for one of these? Something I could pick up
at Radio Shack or do I need to order on line? Under what section of
the manual would you go looking for specs if it's something that
varies by manufacturer and model? I only read enough of the manual to
get my mill up and running so I could play with it. Now that I've had
it for several months, it's time to make improvements.

RWL


Radio Shack pots are garbage. Spend a few bucks and buy something
like this:

http://www.potentiometers.com/seriesRV4.cfm?

then it will last for years. I might even have one laying around
that would work. They are mil spec, and availible surplus. They are
sealed, so you don;t have to wory about dust or metal chips damaging
them.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense!