Eat your heart out all ye with South Bends and similar inferior products for
here is an example of true craftsmanship:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7614869315843/

I am not sure what it is going to do in the end as the tooling arrangements
have so far been disappointing. I might make it play music: I cannot decide
on "Duelling banjos" or "Korobeyniki" (Borat's song).

Seriously, feel free to comment adversely or otherwise. The first one with
the correct count of the number of engineering rules broken will win a
prize.
Just remember: Do not mention the tailstock! There isn't any...

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

I love this kind of ****, personally. Congrats on a fun project. Much
better than drugs or whores. Well, maybe not whores. Stop by for a beer
if you are near Lisle, IL.

By the way, in my pickup truck, I have a commercial version of what
you made. It is a lathe without bed or tailstock, that mounts on the
side of a bench.

Price is cheap

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp...owling/207.JPG

i

On 2009-05-22, Michael Koblic wrote:
Eat your heart out all ye with South Bends and similar inferior products for
here is an example of true craftsmanship:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7614869315843/

I am not sure what it is going to do in the end as the tooling arrangements
have so far been disappointing. I might make it play music: I cannot decide
on "Duelling banjos" or "Korobeyniki" (Borat's song).

Seriously, feel free to comment adversely or otherwise. The first one with
the correct count of the number of engineering rules broken will win a
prize.
Just remember: Do not mention the tailstock! There isn't any...

Eat your heart out all ye with South Bends and similar inferior products for
here is an example of true craftsmanship:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7614869315843/

I am not sure what it is going to do in the end as the tooling arrangements
have so far been disappointing. I might make it play music: I cannot decide
on "Duelling banjos" or "Korobeyniki" (Borat's song).

Seriously, feel free to comment adversely or otherwise. The first one with
the correct count of the number of engineering rules broken will win a prize.
Just remember: Do not mention the tailstock! There isn't any...

First thing I noticed is your shop looks too clean.

Looks like your having fun!

Wayne D.

"Michael Koblic" wrote in message
...
Eat your heart out all ye with South Bends and similar inferior products
for here is an example of true craftsmanship:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7614869315843/

I am not sure what it is going to do in the end as the tooling
arrangements have so far been disappointing. I might make it play music: I
cannot decide on "Duelling banjos" or "Korobeyniki" (Borat's song).

Seriously, feel free to comment adversely or otherwise. The first one with
the correct count of the number of engineering rules broken will win a
prize.
Just remember: Do not mention the tailstock! There isn't any...

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC
That is cool. Nice work.

On Fri, 22 May 2009 16:04:14 -0700, Michael Koblic wrote:

[...] an example of true craftsmanship:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7614869315843/
[...]
Seriously, feel free to comment adversely or otherwise. The first one
with the correct count of the number of engineering rules broken will
win a prize.
[...]

At the 12th picture in the set, you comment, "The spindle clearly
needs work - I have to reflect before I cut!". As a temporary
alternative, consider adding a spacer (eg, 2" to 3" of 1" ID pipe)
between the bolt head and the back bearing. Or buy a shorter bolt.

Common wisdom is that lower drill-press spindle bearings and Morse
taper chuck mounts aren't rated for side loads. You are applying
a side load via the wooden pulley on the chuck. The idler pulley
arrangement at http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/246 (13% down the
page) balances most of the side loads on the idler. It doesn't look
like you can fit in an arrangement like that without a lot of
rebuilding, but you might be able to pretty easily reverse the
position of the pulleys on your countershaft, and drive it from
a 2nd belt on the spindle pulley, and remove the drill press chuck.

--
jiw

"Michael Koblic" wrote in message
...
Eat your heart out all ye with South Bends and similar inferior products
for here is an example of true craftsmanship:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7614869315843/

I am not sure what it is going to do in the end as the tooling
arrangements have so far been disappointing. I might make it play music: I
cannot decide on "Duelling banjos" or "Korobeyniki" (Borat's song).

Seriously, feel free to comment adversely or otherwise. The first one with
the correct count of the number of engineering rules broken will win a
prize.
Just remember: Do not mention the tailstock! There isn't any...

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC



Maybe since I am slightly under the weather, I do not understand the setup.
Use the drill press to hold the chuck and build a bracker to mount the motor
on top of the drill casting. Then the footprint is the same as the drill.
Mount a 1" threaded shaft in the Jacobs chuck or get an adapter that
replaces the drill chuck with an adapter for the lathe chuck.

On 2009-05-23, James Waldby wrote:
On Fri, 22 May 2009 16:04:14 -0700, Michael Koblic wrote:

[...] an example of true craftsmanship:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7614869315843/
[...]
Seriously, feel free to comment adversely or otherwise. The first one
with the correct count of the number of engineering rules broken will
win a prize.
[...]

At the 12th picture in the set, you comment, "The spindle clearly
needs work - I have to reflect before I cut!". As a temporary
alternative, consider adding a spacer (eg, 2" to 3" of 1" ID pipe)
between the bolt head and the back bearing. Or buy a shorter bolt.

Common wisdom is that lower drill-press spindle bearings and Morse
taper chuck mounts aren't rated for side loads. You are applying

Aside from that -- going back to the first and second photos.
I seem to see a collar around the spindle just beyond the end of the
threads. How is that affixed to the screw? Setscrews? Pins? Heat
shrink?

Anyway -- assuming that the collar is secured with set screws,
it can shift from the force applied by the chuck when it is screwed on.

So -- going to the second photo, it looks as though the pillow
blocks contain bearings designed only for radial load, not axial load,
and the chuck screwing on will apply axial force between the bearings.

What I would do is measure the spacing between the ends of the
pulley and the bearing inner race, and turn some spacer collars to just
slide fit onto the unthreaded shank of the screw to go between the
pulley hub and the inner races, so when the chuck tightens things up it
will tighten against a rigid stack up, instead of trying to tilt the
pillow blocks and perhaps damage the bearings with axial load.

I have not seen the videos, because I opted not to load Flash
for the run.

Good luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"Ignoramus17277" wrote in message
...
I love this kind of ****, personally. Congrats on a fun project. Much
better than drugs or whores. Well, maybe not whores. Stop by for a beer
if you are near Lisle, IL.

By the way, in my pickup truck, I have a commercial version of what
you made. It is a lathe without bed or tailstock, that mounts on the
side of a bench.

Price is cheap

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp...owling/207.JPG


Thanks. The answer it depends on the drugs and whores...The cost of this
project would preclude anything high class as an alternative.

"Wayne" wrote in message
...
Eat your heart out all ye with South Bends and similar inferior products
for here is an example of true craftsmanship:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7614869315843/

I am not sure what it is going to do in the end as the tooling
arrangements have so far been disappointing. I might make it play music:
I cannot decide on "Duelling banjos" or "Korobeyniki" (Borat's song).

Seriously, feel free to comment adversely or otherwise. The first one
with the correct count of the number of engineering rules broken will win
a prize.
Just remember: Do not mention the tailstock! There isn't any...

First thing I noticed is your shop looks too clean.

Looks like your having fun!

*Relatively* clean shop is a result of:
1) A left-over habits from the previous life.
2) Realization that others have to live in the same space if only
occasionally. As those others have been away recently, you should have seen
the state of the place three days before the pics were taken.

"James Waldby" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 22 May 2009 16:04:14 -0700, Michael Koblic wrote:

[...] an example of true craftsmanship:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7614869315843/
[...]
Seriously, feel free to comment adversely or otherwise. The first one
with the correct count of the number of engineering rules broken will
win a prize.
[...]

At the 12th picture in the set, you comment, "The spindle clearly
needs work - I have to reflect before I cut!". As a temporary
alternative, consider adding a spacer (eg, 2" to 3" of 1" ID pipe)
between the bolt head and the back bearing. Or buy a shorter bolt.

This was the only one I coud get. The threaded part seems the same length
whatever the bolt. I have played with spacer nuts. However, as Joseph Stalin
said, you can measure as many times as you like but the purpose of the
exercise is to cut. That overhang will have to go.

Common wisdom is that lower drill-press spindle bearings and Morse
taper chuck mounts aren't rated for side loads. You are applying
a side load via the wooden pulley on the chuck. The idler pulley
arrangement at http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/246 (13% down the
page) balances most of the side loads on the idler. It doesn't look
like you can fit in an arrangement like that without a lot of
rebuilding, but you might be able to pretty easily reverse the
position of the pulleys on your countershaft, and drive it from
a 2nd belt on the spindle pulley, and remove the drill press chuck.

First of all please note that wisdom played very little part in this
construction.

The problems with driving off the spindle step pulley were several: A belt
type which is all but impossible to find, desire to be able to change speeds
and further speed reduction. Ideally I would have liked the wooden pulley to
be smaller to get lower speeds.

I thought long and hard about alternative means of attachment of a small
pulley directly to the drill press spindle. The nearest I got was to discard
the chuck and turn the JT33 taper down to a cylinder and fit a pulley there
somehow. However, I did not have the facility to do this. A proper engineer
would have removed the spindle altogether, put matching bearings either end
and run a 5/8" shaft through the existing space. It may still have to
happen.

However, when I was turning the wooden pulley superglued to the chuck I
fully expected that the forces involved in my horrible woodwork would
disintegrate the whole arrangement. They did not and thus I left it. No
doubt it will give sometime down the road.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2009-05-23, James Waldby wrote:
On Fri, 22 May 2009 16:04:14 -0700, Michael Koblic wrote:

[...] an example of true craftsmanship:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7614869315843/
[...]
Seriously, feel free to comment adversely or otherwise. The first one
with the correct count of the number of engineering rules broken will
win a prize.
[...]

At the 12th picture in the set, you comment, "The spindle clearly
needs work - I have to reflect before I cut!". As a temporary
alternative, consider adding a spacer (eg, 2" to 3" of 1" ID pipe)
between the bolt head and the back bearing. Or buy a shorter bolt.

Common wisdom is that lower drill-press spindle bearings and Morse
taper chuck mounts aren't rated for side loads. You are applying

Aside from that -- going back to the first and second photos.
I seem to see a collar around the spindle just beyond the end of the
threads. How is that affixed to the screw? Setscrews? Pins? Heat
shrink?

Anyway -- assuming that the collar is secured with set screws,
it can shift from the force applied by the chuck when it is screwed on.

It's this one:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...u=34273&ucst=t

They quote axial load of 2600 lb. A bit of superglue as well?


So -- going to the second photo, it looks as though the pillow
blocks contain bearings designed only for radial load, not axial load,
and the chuck screwing on will apply axial force between the bearings.

What I would do is measure the spacing between the ends of the
pulley and the bearing inner race, and turn some spacer collars to just
slide fit onto the unthreaded shank of the screw to go between the
pulley hub and the inner races, so when the chuck tightens things up it
will tighten against a rigid stack up, instead of trying to tilt the
pillow blocks and perhaps damage the bearings with axial load.

OK. I have to digest that one.

I have not seen the videos, because I opted not to load Flash
for the run.

You missed the best part as well as the cool Bee Gees' music...

On May 22, 1:04*pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
Eat your heart out all ye with South Bends and similar inferior products for
here is an example of true craftsmanship:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7614869315843/

I am not sure what it is going to do in the end as the tooling arrangements
have so far been disappointing. I might make it play music: I cannot decide
on "Duelling banjos" or "Korobeyniki" (Borat's song).

Seriously, feel free to comment adversely or otherwise. The first one with
the correct count of the number of engineering rules broken will win a
prize.
Just remember: Do not mention the tailstock! There isn't any...

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Cool. You might want to look at similar stuff bowl turning people have
done. They use a similar lathe. It might give you more ideas.
Karl

On May 23, 2:14*am, "Michael Koblic" wrote:

That's the idea.

I would have put the large pulley on the chuck end and faced it with
two layers of plywood, the rear one semi-permanent and faced flat, the
front to screw the work to. A heavy cast iron pulley would be better
if you can find one. If the pulley hole is larger the adapter sleeve
doesn't need a key, you could slot it and use the pulley setscrews to
squeeze it onto the spindle since there is no torque there, only
thrust.

Vee belts work fine on large flat pulleys. The motor should have a vee
pulley but you could turn a wooden stepped cone for the spindle and
hang the motor on a hinged plate to tension it, with bungee cords to
adjust the slip. This is the pulley and clutch on my sawmill:
http://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/H...07508265721842

My mental image uses an oak beam for the bed with the top hand-planed
and the sides hewn with an adze. You can flatten the side of a log
pretty well with a chain saw by letting the trailing edge guide the
bar. Cut the knots off first and then find and spray-paint the high
spots.

The wooden spindle pulley overhangs the left end so the (leather) belt
runs down to a motor hanging under the beam and you can attach and
turn large wheels or bowls. The pillow blocks are on a steel subframe
which can be blocked up for larger work. You attach the X-Y table that
holds the tool bit with lag screws for normal jobs or C-clamps for
angles or oversized ones.

When you need a tailstock you put a length of shafting or drill rod in
the spindle bearings to align the tailstock shaft bushings/bearings,
which are the same size as the spindle. My home-brew tailstock for
milling is a slotted angle plate and a drilled and reamed block
holding a 1/2" drill rod shaft. I align it with 1/2" rod in the
indexer collet.

jsw

"kfvorwerk" wrote in message
...
On May 22, 1:04 pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
Eat your heart out all ye with South Bends and similar inferior products
for
here is an example of true craftsmanship:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7614869315843/

I am not sure what it is going to do in the end as the tooling
arrangements
have so far been disappointing. I might make it play music: I cannot
decide
on "Duelling banjos" or "Korobeyniki" (Borat's song).

Seriously, feel free to comment adversely or otherwise. The first one with
the correct count of the number of engineering rules broken will win a
prize.
Just remember: Do not mention the tailstock! There isn't any...

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Cool. You might want to look at similar stuff bowl turning people have
done. They use a similar lathe. It might give you more ideas.
Karl

in fact a search for "largest bowl" ought to turn up an excercise by some
folks in australia that led to a really amazing wood turning situation - as
I recall diameter was about 10 feet, and the rotation was provided by a
tractor's rear wheel acting as a faceplate)

kfvorwerk wrote:

Cool. You might want to look at similar stuff bowl turning people have
done. They use a similar lathe. It might give you more ideas.

Thanks. I watched some interesting viedos on the subject amongst others one
showing a Japanese turner - aparently they do not use any tailstock even for
quite long pieces of work but they are very particular about their
tool-rests: Those get handed down from father to son. His looked like a
piece of 2x2 to me but what do I know...

Bill Noble wrote:

Cool. You might want to look at similar stuff bowl turning people have
done. They use a similar lathe. It might give you more ideas.
Karl

in fact a search for "largest bowl" ought to turn up an excercise by
some folks in australia that led to a really amazing wood turning
situation - as I recall diameter was about 10 feet, and the rotation
was provided by a tractor's rear wheel acting as a faceplate)

There is a turning program on PBS. They visited various folks one of which
had something similar (although well short of 10 feet). AFAIK the bowl gauge
had to be held by two people...

Jim Wilkins wrote:
On May 23, 2:14 am, "Michael Koblic" wrote:

That's the idea.

I would have put the large pulley on the chuck end and faced it with
two layers of plywood, the rear one semi-permanent and faced flat, the
front to screw the work to. A heavy cast iron pulley would be better
if you can find one. If the pulley hole is larger the adapter sleeve
doesn't need a key, you could slot it and use the pulley setscrews to
squeeze it onto the spindle since there is no torque there, only
thrust.

I think you are talking about the headstock? A wooden faceplate was one of
the options I considered. My thought was to drill a round piece of plywood
and tap it 1"-8 and then finish it including facing on the machine itself.
That way it could be removed. I have also milled a 1"-8 nut in preparation
for welding a round piece of iron to it to make a metal faceplate but then I
found this chuck...

Vee belts work fine on large flat pulleys. The motor should have a vee
pulley but you could turn a wooden stepped cone for the spindle and
hang the motor on a hinged plate to tension it, with bungee cords to
adjust the slip. This is the pulley and clutch on my sawmill:
http://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/H...07508265721842

Right now that is the way the motor is attached but it tends to move up and
down (the tension is provided by the motor weight alone). There is no slip
but then there has been no load of consequence. I wonder if I shall have to
stabilize the motor somehow anyway to reduce vibration.

My mental image uses an oak beam for the bed with the top hand-planed
and the sides hewn with an adze. You can flatten the side of a log
pretty well with a chain saw by letting the trailing edge guide the
bar. Cut the knots off first and then find and spray-paint the high
spots.

The wooden spindle pulley overhangs the left end so the (leather) belt
runs down to a motor hanging under the beam and you can attach and
turn large wheels or bowls. The pillow blocks are on a steel subframe
which can be blocked up for larger work. You attach the X-Y table that
holds the tool bit with lag screws for normal jobs or C-clamps for
angles or oversized ones.

So far I have failed with this one miserably. But if I think on it long
enough, one day at 2AM I shall find the solution :-)

When you need a tailstock you put a length of shafting or drill rod in
the spindle bearings to align the tailstock shaft bushings/bearings,
which are the same size as the spindle. My home-brew tailstock for
milling is a slotted angle plate and a drilled and reamed block
holding a 1/2" drill rod shaft. I align it with 1/2" rod in the
indexer collet.

Even if I do not use it on this project this will be useful when I start on
my home made rotary table with a tailstock.

Thanks.


--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

It's this one:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...u=34273&ucst=t

They quote axial load of 2600 lb. A bit of superglue as well?

I think Don means that you've got no rigidity *between* the pillow blocks.
I'm no machinist but I think that axial load will be transferred back down
the screw and attempt to pull together the pillow blocks. Don was saying that
you need some rigidity between these (ie, a loose sleeve).
FBt

On Fri, 22 May 2009 16:04:14 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
wrote:

Eat your heart out all ye with South Bends and similar inferior products for
here is an example of true craftsmanship:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7614869315843/

I am not sure what it is going to do in the end as the tooling arrangements
have so far been disappointing. I might make it play music: I cannot decide
on "Duelling banjos" or "Korobeyniki" (Borat's song).

Seriously, feel free to comment adversely or otherwise. The first one with
the correct count of the number of engineering rules broken will win a
prize.
Just remember: Do not mention the tailstock! There isn't any...


Very nice.

I am however curious as to why you simply didnt pull the chuck on your
power unit..and make an adapter so you could mount a chuck directly on
the spindle.

Turns too fast?

Gunner

"Lenin called them "useful idiots," those people living in
liberal democracies who by giving moral and material support
to a totalitarian ideology in effect were braiding the rope that
would hang them. Why people who enjoyed freedom and prosperity worked
passionately to destroy both is a fascinating question, one still with us
today. Now the useful idiots can be found in the chorus of appeasement,
reflexive anti-Americanism, and sentimental idealism trying to inhibit
the necessary responses to another freedom-hating ideology, radical Islam"

Bruce C. Thornton, a professor of Classics at American University of Cal State Fresno

"Esther & Fester Bestertester" wrote in message
obal.net...
It's this one:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...u=34273&ucst=t

They quote axial load of 2600 lb. A bit of superglue as well?

I think Don means that you've got no rigidity *between* the pillow blocks.
I'm no machinist but I think that axial load will be transferred back down
the screw and attempt to pull together the pillow blocks. Don was saying
that
you need some rigidity between these (ie, a loose sleeve).
FBt


Ah, clearly my digestion of the matter was incomplete. Thanks.

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...

Very nice.

Thanks.

I am however curious as to why you simply didnt pull the chuck on your
power unit..and make an adapter so you could mount a chuck directly on
the spindle.

Turns too fast?

If I understand you correctly you are asking why the palaver with the
counter shaft? The lowest speed was given by the cannibalized drill press at
570 rpm. As I was hoping to work on rings with up to 9" diameter made of
steel I thought this was too fast. With the current arrangement I get the
lowest spindle speed just under 100 rpm.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On 2009-05-23, Michael Koblic wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2009-05-23, James Waldby wrote:

[ ... ]

Common wisdom is that lower drill-press spindle bearings and Morse
taper chuck mounts aren't rated for side loads. You are applying

Aside from that -- going back to the first and second photos.
I seem to see a collar around the spindle just beyond the end of the
threads. How is that affixed to the screw? Setscrews? Pins? Heat
shrink?

Anyway -- assuming that the collar is secured with set screws,
it can shift from the force applied by the chuck when it is screwed on.

It's this one:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...u=34273&ucst=t

They quote axial load of 2600 lb. A bit of superglue as well?

Hmm ... I suspect that axial load spec is making some
assumptions about the precision of the shaft diameter, and the finish of
the shaft -- but it is a *lot* better than one held by setscrews.

I still would worry about what would happen if the chuck was out
near the end of the thread, and the motor was started, letting the screw
wind its way up to the chuck, and thus slamming the chuck against the
collar.

Or -- if you are going at a good RPM and the tool digs into the
workpiece stalling the spindle.

So -- going to the second photo, it looks as though the pillow
blocks contain bearings designed only for radial load, not axial load,
and the chuck screwing on will apply axial force between the bearings.

What I would do is measure the spacing between the ends of the
pulley and the bearing inner race, and turn some spacer collars to just
slide fit onto the unthreaded shank of the screw to go between the
pulley hub and the inner races, so when the chuck tightens things up it
will tighten against a rigid stack up, instead of trying to tilt the
pillow blocks and perhaps damage the bearings with axial load.

OK. I have to digest that one.

This is all so you don't have to worry about the collar
slipping.

I have not seen the videos, because I opted not to load Flash
for the run.

You missed the best part as well as the cool Bee Gees' music...

I would be more interested in hearing Gordon Bok, or Jean
Redpath, or any of a number of other individual singers.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Sat, 23 May 2009 16:32:23 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .

Very nice.

Thanks.

I am however curious as to why you simply didnt pull the chuck on your
power unit..and make an adapter so you could mount a chuck directly on
the spindle.

Turns too fast?

If I understand you correctly you are asking why the palaver with the
counter shaft? The lowest speed was given by the cannibalized drill press at
570 rpm. As I was hoping to work on rings with up to 9" diameter made of
steel I thought this was too fast. With the current arrangement I get the
lowest spindle speed just under 100 rpm.

Gotcha. Though a small 3ph motor and cheap low hp VFD from Ebay may be a
better option for you......

Well done

Gunner

"Lenin called them "useful idiots," those people living in
liberal democracies who by giving moral and material support
to a totalitarian ideology in effect were braiding the rope that
would hang them. Why people who enjoyed freedom and prosperity worked
passionately to destroy both is a fascinating question, one still with us
today. Now the useful idiots can be found in the chorus of appeasement,
reflexive anti-Americanism, and sentimental idealism trying to inhibit
the necessary responses to another freedom-hating ideology, radical Islam"

Bruce C. Thornton, a professor of Classics at American University of Cal State Fresno

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

Hmm ... I suspect that axial load spec is making some
assumptions about the precision of the shaft diameter, and the finish of
the shaft -- but it is a *lot* better than one held by setscrews.

I still would worry about what would happen if the chuck was out
near the end of the thread, and the motor was started, letting the screw
wind its way up to the chuck, and thus slamming the chuck against the
collar.

Or -- if you are going at a good RPM and the tool digs into the
workpiece stalling the spindle.

OK, I am probably still not comprehending totally: The chuck *is* against
the collar (a poor man's shoulder). If the collar gets pushed towards the
bearing there is only about half a turn of thread left - the chuck cannot go
any further.

This is all so you don't have to worry about the collar
slipping.

Vis-a-vis the above...is it still an issue?

I have not seen the videos, because I opted not to load Flash
for the run.

You missed the best part as well as the cool Bee Gees' music...

I would be more interested in hearing Gordon Bok, or Jean
Redpath, or any of a number of other individual singers.

The best you will get here is Bob Dylan (no older than 1968) and Donovan
(ditto).
I guess Hungarian czardas's would be right out then...

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 23 May 2009 16:32:23 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
. ..

Very nice.

Thanks.

I am however curious as to why you simply didnt pull the chuck on your
power unit..and make an adapter so you could mount a chuck directly on
the spindle.

Turns too fast?

If I understand you correctly you are asking why the palaver with the
counter shaft? The lowest speed was given by the cannibalized drill press
at
570 rpm. As I was hoping to work on rings with up to 9" diameter made of
steel I thought this was too fast. With the current arrangement I get the
lowest spindle speed just under 100 rpm.

Gotcha. Though a small 3ph motor and cheap low hp VFD from Ebay may be a
better option for you......

Well done

Only if I can buy them for less than $20...:-)

On Sat, 23 May 2009 22:33:49 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 23 May 2009 16:32:23 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...

Very nice.

Thanks.

I am however curious as to why you simply didnt pull the chuck on your
power unit..and make an adapter so you could mount a chuck directly on
the spindle.

Turns too fast?

If I understand you correctly you are asking why the palaver with the
counter shaft? The lowest speed was given by the cannibalized drill press
at
570 rpm. As I was hoping to work on rings with up to 9" diameter made of
steel I thought this was too fast. With the current arrangement I get the
lowest spindle speed just under 100 rpm.

Gotcha. Though a small 3ph motor and cheap low hp VFD from Ebay may be a
better option for you......

Well done

Only if I can buy them for less than $20...:-)

Shipping may double that. G

Good job

Gunner

"Lenin called them "useful idiots," those people living in
liberal democracies who by giving moral and material support
to a totalitarian ideology in effect were braiding the rope that
would hang them. Why people who enjoyed freedom and prosperity worked
passionately to destroy both is a fascinating question, one still with us
today. Now the useful idiots can be found in the chorus of appeasement,
reflexive anti-Americanism, and sentimental idealism trying to inhibit
the necessary responses to another freedom-hating ideology, radical Islam"

Bruce C. Thornton, a professor of Classics at American University of Cal State Fresno

On 2009-05-24, Michael Koblic wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

Hmm ... I suspect that axial load spec is making some
assumptions about the precision of the shaft diameter, and the finish of
the shaft -- but it is a *lot* better than one held by setscrews.

I still would worry about what would happen if the chuck was out
near the end of the thread, and the motor was started, letting the screw
wind its way up to the chuck, and thus slamming the chuck against the
collar.

Or -- if you are going at a good RPM and the tool digs into the
workpiece stalling the spindle.

OK, I am probably still not comprehending totally: The chuck *is* against
the collar (a poor man's shoulder). If the collar gets pushed towards the
bearing there is only about half a turn of thread left - the chuck cannot go
any further.

How much spacing is there between the collar and the inner race
of the bearing near the chuck end? If the collar shifting can apply
force to the bearing inner race, it can cause rapid wear in the bearing.
(I've seen this happen in a 5-1/4" floppy disk drive which did not have
a spacer between the bearings, and a pulley which was simply tightened
against the inner race. I had to put a new pair of bearings in there,
and make a spacer to keep from applying an axial load to the bearings.

This is all so you don't have to worry about the collar
slipping.

Vis-a-vis the above...is it still an issue?

It depends on whether the collar can slip far enough to pusho n
the inner race.

I have not seen the videos, because I opted not to load Flash
for the run.

You missed the best part as well as the cool Bee Gees' music...

I would be more interested in hearing Gordon Bok, or Jean
Redpath, or any of a number of other individual singers.

The best you will get here is Bob Dylan (no older than 1968) and Donovan
(ditto).
I guess Hungarian czardas's would be right out then...

Hmm ... I might be interested in them. I would have to hear an
example to be sure. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

snip

It depends on whether the collar can slip far enough to pusho n
the inner race.

It cannot. The chuck will run out of thread before it pushes the collar far
enough to interfere with the race. There is no other force that I can think
of that would push the collar in that direction.

The best you will get here is Bob Dylan (no older than 1968) and Donovan
(ditto).
I guess Hungarian czardas's would be right out then...

Hmm ... I might be interested in them. I would have to hear an
example to be sure. :-)

OK the next clip was going to be to the "Ride of the Valkyries" but I shall
select an appropriate czardas instead.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Seriously, feel free to comment adversely or otherwise.

I guess I don't see the point of using the drill press at all. I'd
have just used the motor and pulleys from it and gone straight from
the motor to the jackshaft. Are you planning on actually changing
speeds at all? If you did something like this:
http://home.comcast.net/~glyford/js/Jackshaft-back.jpg
(ignore for a moment that, yes, it is mounted on a drill press) you
may be able to reduce the total number of pulleys involved, and only
give up one speed choice. Also, since your chuck mounted pulley is
fairly large, you're not getting much reduction from it to the
jackshaft. Even if you made up another jackshaft, I can't help but
think it must take up less room than the drill press head. I might
even be tempted to mount the jackshaft and motor to the bottom of the
top board, reducing the room required even more.
--Glenn Lyford

"Glenn Lyford" wrote in message
...
Seriously, feel free to comment adversely or otherwise.

I guess I don't see the point of using the drill press at all. I'd
have just used the motor and pulleys from it and gone straight from
the motor to the jackshaft. Are you planning on actually changing
speeds at all? If you did something like this:
http://home.comcast.net/~glyford/js/Jackshaft-back.jpg
(ignore for a moment that, yes, it is mounted on a drill press) you
may be able to reduce the total number of pulleys involved, and only
give up one speed choice. Also, since your chuck mounted pulley is
fairly large, you're not getting much reduction from it to the
jackshaft. Even if you made up another jackshaft, I can't help but
think it must take up less room than the drill press head. I might
even be tempted to mount the jackshaft and motor to the bottom of the
top board, reducing the room required even more.

The drill press head, in this case represents jackshaft No.1
I can change speeds from just under 100 to about 500 at the spindle.
Agreed a much smaller pulley on the chuck may have obviated one step for the
current speeds. However, I was hoping to go even lower ( I wanted about
50-60). As it stands, given the pulleys I had available there is not much
speed reduction between jackshaft 1 and 2.

I did play with the idea of mounting things on the underside of the top
board but in the end decided to keep it simple.

Using the drill press head was purely to save time and money. Agreed, from
engineering point of view it is an atrocity.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Agreed a much smaller pulley on the chuck may have obviated one step for the
current speeds. However, I was hoping to go even lower ( I wanted about
50-60). As it stands, given the pulleys I had available there is not much
speed reduction between jackshaft 1 and 2.

How about simply chucking a length of 1/2" shaft, and mounting the
pulley to that? Maybe file three flats on the piece of shaft for the
chuck jaws, so it won't spin. Should allow you to get a much smaller
pulley on there assuming you can move the pulley on your other
jackshaft enough to line up...
--Glenn Lyford

"Glenn Lyford" wrote in message
...
Agreed a much smaller pulley on the chuck may have obviated one step for
the
current speeds. However, I was hoping to go even lower ( I wanted about
50-60). As it stands, given the pulleys I had available there is not much
speed reduction between jackshaft 1 and 2.

How about simply chucking a length of 1/2" shaft, and mounting the
pulley to that? Maybe file three flats on the piece of shaft for the
chuck jaws, so it won't spin. Should allow you to get a much smaller
pulley on there assuming you can move the pulley on your other
jackshaft enough to line up...

I did consider that. However, I was concerned about the additional leverage
on the chuck and thus increased radial forces. I was sure that this
arrangement would rip the chuck out of its JT33 taper. The wooden pulley was
a sort of experiment to keep the pulley as close to the bearing as possible.
I was surprised it actually worked and decided to keep it as it was. When it
finally disintegrates I can either try and turn the JT33 taper with my Taig
to a 5/8" cylinder and mount the pulley on that, or, if I the Taig does not
cope with that or I am feeling particularly adventurous I could replace the
bearings in the drill head and fit an appropriate shaft (5/8" in this case
to fit the step pulley).

As it stands the whole thing may turn out to be a failure anyway as I have
not solved the tooling arrangements, i.e a suitable cross-slide. Also the
motor mount needs tweaking as if there is any sort of catch at the work
piece the motor goes flying towards the drill head and the rotation stops
momentarily.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On May 28, 12:36*am, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
...
...Also the
motor mount needs tweaking as if there is any sort of catch at the work
piece the motor goes flying towards the drill head and the rotation stops
momentarily.
Michael Koblic,

I have a small tablesaw and a belt sander mounted on opposite sides of
a hinged motor. The rig is on trunnions so I can rotate the one I need
to the top. As you mentioned the motor jumps under a load, so I wedge
a hockey puck against the plywood motor plate to stiffen it. In this
instance the belt pull is perpendicular to the motor plate.

The hinged motor plate on my small lathe is nearly parallel to the
belt pull and has the high leverage of a toggle. It needs a solid stop
to keep the belt from pulling too tight and it never has jumped.

jsw

On Wed, 27 May 2009 21:36:20 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
wrote:


As it stands the whole thing may turn out to be a failure anyway as I have
not solved the tooling arrangements, i.e a suitable cross-slide.

Clamp your tool bit in one of these?
http://www.shars.com/products/view/3..._Compound_Vise

--
Ned Simmons

Ned Simmons wrote:
On Wed, 27 May 2009 21:36:20 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
wrote:


As it stands the whole thing may turn out to be a failure anyway as
I have not solved the tooling arrangements, i.e a suitable
cross-slide.

Clamp your tool bit in one of these?
http://www.shars.com/products/view/3..._Compound_Vise

I have been looking at them. In fact there is one in our auction tonight. A
really big beast. However, I could not visualize how to get the bit close to
the workpiece. There are many overhangs getting in the way. I suspect in the
end it will need some butchery if I do decide to go that way. But I agree:
Right now it seems to be the most realistic and economical soution.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Jim Wilkins wrote:
On May 28, 12:36 am, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
...
...Also the
motor mount needs tweaking as if there is any sort of catch at the
work piece the motor goes flying towards the drill head and the
rotation stops momentarily.
Michael Koblic,

I have a small tablesaw and a belt sander mounted on opposite sides of
a hinged motor. The rig is on trunnions so I can rotate the one I need
to the top. As you mentioned the motor jumps under a load, so I wedge
a hockey puck against the plywood motor plate to stiffen it. In this
instance the belt pull is perpendicular to the motor plate.

I could not find this on your web-site. Will you be taking pictures?

Talking about wedging things - the new drill press I bought about two years
ago was inexplicably noisy when the bolt that is supposed to keep the
tension on the motor was engaged. The problem was cured by wedging a rubber
training knife between the drill housing and the motor instead. It was a
useless training implement anyway.

The hinged motor plate on my small lathe is nearly parallel to the
belt pull and has the high leverage of a toggle. It needs a solid stop
to keep the belt from pulling too tight and it never has jumped.

If I use the longer belt the hinged plate is also near parallel.
Unfortunately, this belt has a flaw which makes the whole thing jump once
every revolution as well as big jumps if the spindle catches. With the
shorter belt cannibalized from my small drill press the running is much
smoother.

I am trying to visualize what you are saying: Is it a big motor? Is the
plate big so that the motor is far away from the fulcrum? Neither is the
case here...

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On May 28, 7:15*pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
I have a small tablesaw and a belt sander mounted on opposite sides of
a hinged motor. The rig is on trunnions so I can rotate the one I need
to the top. ...
I could not find this on your web-site. Will you be taking pictures?
Michael Koblic,

That one shouldn't be seen in public so no one copies it. The base is
too small for normal woodworking machines. It only works for me
because the undersized motor stalls instead of kicking back a stuck
board, and I am forced by my sloping driveway to lower it off its
casters. I built it to cut thin sheetmetal etc with an abrasive saw
blade.

jsw

Jim Wilkins wrote:

That one shouldn't be seen in public so no one copies it.

Ah, sounds just like my cup of tea...