I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. Thanks Martin

We use a mill to take larger keystock down to the smaller dimension
thickness, use a file to match the key stock width to the munched up
keyway. A royal pain but what else can you do?

wrote:
I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. Thanks Martin

On Mar 31, 10:06*pm, RoyJ wrote:
We use a mill to take larger keystock down to the smaller dimension
thickness, use a file to match the key stock width to the munched up
keyway. A royal pain but what else can you do?



wrote:
I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. *Thanks *Martin- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Flip the shaft over and recut a new one 180 degrees off. It's what
shapers do(or for that narrow, it wouldn't take long with a thin
file). Or use a filled epoxy, JB Weld might work. I've used it on
worn shafts with flats before. If you ever want to get it apart
again, you might use some type of mold release on the key and hub...

Stan

On Apr 1, 12:52*am, wrote:
On Mar 31, 10:06*pm, RoyJ wrote:

We use a mill to take larger keystock down to the smaller dimension
thickness, use a file to match the key stock width to the munched up
keyway. A royal pain but what else can you do?

wrote:
I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. *Thanks *Martin- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Flip the shaft over and recut a new one 180 degrees off. *It's what
shapers do(or for that narrow, it wouldn't take long with a thin
file). *Or use a filled epoxy, JB Weld might work. *I've used it on
worn shafts with flats before. *If you ever want to get it apart
again, you might use some type of mold release on the key and hub...

Stan

I know what jb weld is whats filled epoxy the key way isn't totally
ruined only in the middle if i used one of those products and recut it
do you think it would hold.

The filled expoxies are no where near strong enough to withstand the
pounding of a key. The original shaft had steel in the 50kpsi range, JB
weld is 3000psi(??) Cutting a new keyway is the best solution but it is
not an option for most folks.

wrote:
On Mar 31, 10:06 pm, RoyJ wrote:
We use a mill to take larger keystock down to the smaller dimension
thickness, use a file to match the key stock width to the munched up
keyway. A royal pain but what else can you do?



wrote:
I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. Thanks Martin- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -

Flip the shaft over and recut a new one 180 degrees off. It's what
shapers do(or for that narrow, it wouldn't take long with a thin
file). Or use a filled epoxy, JB Weld might work. I've used it on
worn shafts with flats before. If you ever want to get it apart
again, you might use some type of mold release on the key and hub...

Stan

On Apr 1, 12:52*am, wrote:
On Mar 31, 10:06*pm, RoyJ wrote:

We use a mill to take larger keystock down to the smaller dimension
thickness, use a file to match the key stock width to the munched up
keyway. A royal pain but what else can you do?

wrote:
I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. *Thanks *Martin- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Flip the shaft over and recut a new one 180 degrees off. *It's what
shapers do(or for that narrow, it wouldn't take long with a thin
file). *Or use a filled epoxy, JB Weld might work. *I've used it on
worn shafts with flats before. *If you ever want to get it apart
again, you might use some type of mold release on the key and hub...

Stan

Do you think I could cut a new keyway with a file and exactly what
type of file should I use. thanks

Cutting a key way with a file is possible but extremely ugly job.
Cutting down a key is no big deal.

wrote:
On Apr 1, 12:52 am, wrote:
On Mar 31, 10:06 pm, RoyJ wrote:

We use a mill to take larger keystock down to the smaller dimension
thickness, use a file to match the key stock width to the munched up
keyway. A royal pain but what else can you do?
wrote:
I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. Thanks Martin- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Flip the shaft over and recut a new one 180 degrees off. It's what
shapers do(or for that narrow, it wouldn't take long with a thin
file). Or use a filled epoxy, JB Weld might work. I've used it on
worn shafts with flats before. If you ever want to get it apart
again, you might use some type of mold release on the key and hub...

Stan

Do you think I could cut a new keyway with a file and exactly what
type of file should I use. thanks

On Apr 1, 8:50*pm, wrote:

Do you think I could cut a new keyway with a file and exactly what
type of file should I use. *thanks

Still no photos, plus we don't know what you have for machine tools or
skills. A 'hand" or "pillar" file has parallel sides unlike the usual
mill file, and a safe edge that lets it cut the slot wider without
deepening it. But I think you'll find it extremely difficult to file
the motor shaft key slot wider and keep the sides parallel and aligned
straight with the keyway in the hub. Chances are when the new
oversized key fits it will make contact at only a few places and will
soon pound the slot wider.

This is the tool that cuts a keyway slot in the hub:
http://www.dumont.com/procedur.html
They aren't cheap and you need a press, hammering is likely to break
them.

If I absolutely had to do this without a milling machine, I would
broach the hub to 3/16", chisel and file the shaft slot close but
undersized, and then install the hub and tap in a 3/16" lathe bit to
raise a chip at the edges of the shaft slot. The hub should guide the
bit straight. File down the chip, tap the lathe bit in a litle
further, file and repeat. I'd grind a sharp square end on the bit and
then bevel the hub side slightly so only the shaft side cuts.

It's an easy job on a milling machine.

Jim Wilkins

On Apr 2, 7:00*am, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Apr 1, 8:50*pm, wrote:



Do you think I could cut a new keyway with a file and exactly what
type of file should I use. *thanks

Still no photos, plus we don't know what you have for machine tools or
skills. A 'hand" or "pillar" file has parallel sides unlike the usual
mill file, and a safe edge that lets it cut the slot wider without
deepening it. But I think you'll find it extremely difficult to file
the motor shaft key slot wider and keep the sides parallel and aligned
straight with the keyway in the hub. Chances are when the new
oversized key fits it will make contact at only a few places and will
soon pound the slot wider.

This is the tool that cuts a keyway slot in the hub:http://www.dumont.com/procedur.html
They aren't cheap and you need a press, hammering is likely to break
them.

If I absolutely had to do this without a milling machine, I would
broach the hub to 3/16", chisel and file the shaft slot close but
undersized, and then install the hub and tap in a 3/16" lathe bit to
raise a chip at the edges of the shaft slot. The hub should guide the
bit straight. File down the chip, tap the lathe bit in a litle
further, file and repeat. I'd grind a sharp square end on the bit and
then bevel the hub side slightly so only the shaft side cuts.

It's an easy job on a milling machine.

Jim Wilkins
I'm just the guy that owns the laundromat but I do all the repairs
including bearings on these motors. If I did this right the picture is
at

http://picasaweb.google.com/smartin1...CMCV7KSt0Or3Pw

On Tue, 31 Mar 2009 21:02:54 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. Thanks Martin

Mill a new keyway on the other side of the shaft.

On Apr 1, 12:02�am, wrote:
I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. �Thanks �Martin

Use a roll pin in place of a square key. Prepare new keyway by
mounting the fan without the key, and drill down the keyways with a
smaller drill -- say a number 13 (.185") for a 3/16 (.1875) roll pin.
Use a BFH to seat your new key.

On Apr 1, 1:20*am, wrote:
On Apr 1, 12:02 am, wrote:

I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. Thanks Martin

Use a roll pin in place of a square key. *Prepare new keyway by
mounting the fan without the key, and drill down the keyways with a
smaller drill -- say a number 13 (.185") for a 3/16 (.1875) roll pin.
Use a BFH to seat your new key.

How would I get the drill bit that close to the shaft to drill
parallel to the shaft

Loctite® Quick Metal® Repairs Gear Box Input Shaft, Saves Paper Mill
Million Dollar Shutdown
Loctite® Quick Metal® Retaining Compound keeps paper mill running on
coal and saves it asubstantial amount of money.

Challenge:
A paper mill experienced a failure of a grid-type coupling hub on the
main drive of their coal conveyor due to a wallowed keyway and
spinning of the coupling hub on the gearbox input shaft. With no
spare gearbox, the maintenance team determined the paper machines
would have to be shut down in order to switch over to natural gas.

Solution:
A millwright who had been attending the Loctite® Manufacturing
Reliability Training Process at the plant suggested a method of repair
for the coupling to gearbox input shaft with Loctite® Quick Metal®
Retaining Compound, a creamy, non-running adhesive that can be used
between machinery parts to repair worn areas and restore correct fits.


https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/6D9EC2FC4F2B5770882571870000D864/$File/660-EN.pdf

No connected to them just had good results with their products.

regards
Tim

On Apr 1, 12:02*am, wrote:
I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. *Thanks *Martin

There might be a way to fix them without machine tools but it's hard
to guess without seeing the problem. Could you post some pix on one of
the commercial sites (not here directly) like Picasa? You don't need
their special software, the Basic Uploader works fine.

wrote in message
...
I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. Thanks Martin

Get a Climax shaft keyway cutter and cut the keyway over size and make a
step key for it.

http://www.cpmt.com/tool_over_km.php

They show a video of it in operation.

Richard W.

wrote:
I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. Thanks Martin

Cut a new keyway 180 degrees off from the current one.
Recut the keyways to the next size.


--
Steve W.

wrote in message
...
I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. Thanks Martin

You have several good ideas for repair. You also need to install a setscrew
over the key or otherwise tighten up the fit so there is absolutely no
movement between the shaft and hub. Multiple setscrews or roll pins might be
considered. Otherwise the same thing will likely happen again.

Don Young

wrote in message
...
I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. Thanks Martin

Buy new pulleys with taper bushing hubs.

Loctite the new bushings to the shaft, but not to the pulley. The taper lock
to the pulley will be fine, and leaving it dry with facilitate disassemble
someday, if needed.

Forget the keyways.

On 2009-04-02, Tim #__#@__.- wrote:

wrote in message
...
I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. Thanks Martin

Buy new pulleys with taper bushing hubs.

Loctite the new bushings to the shaft, but not to the pulley. The taper lock
to the pulley will be fine, and leaving it dry with facilitate disassemble
someday, if needed.

This is something I have been wondering about since 3 months ago: do
these tapered pulley bushings, if thouroughly tightened, require
keyways at all or they can be used without a keyway?

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
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"Ignoramus12193" wrote in message
...
On 2009-04-02, Tim #__#@__.- wrote:

wrote in message
...
I have a few electric motors in commercial dryers with warn keyways on
the shaft end that holds the fan any suggestions on how to repair.
Keyways are 1/8 in. Thanks Martin

Buy new pulleys with taper bushing hubs.

Loctite the new bushings to the shaft, but not to the pulley. The taper
lock
to the pulley will be fine, and leaving it dry with facilitate
disassemble
someday, if needed.

This is something I have been wondering about since 3 months ago: do
these tapered pulley bushings, if thouroughly tightened, require
keyways at all or they can be used without a keyway?

Depends entirely on what you are driving, and if you Loctite them to the
shaft.

He is driving a fan with an 1/8" keyway. I'm betting this is both a low
horsepower and smooth transfer of power, and the it will work fine.

But if you drive something like a compressor with an electric motor, or a
mower blade with a gasoline engine, you will probably, but not certainly
need the key. In these examples you are driving a reciprocating load with a
continuous source, or a continuous load with a reciprocating source. So the
shock loading is a considerable factor.

He is driving a continuous load (fan) with a continuous source (electric
motor), so I bet he will be ok. The only questions is, can is find a taper
pulley for his shaft size. The 1/8" key makes me think we might be talking
about a 1/2" shaft, and I don't know if they make them that small.

On 2009-04-02, Tim #__#@__.- wrote:
Depends entirely on what you are driving,

10 HP reciprocating compressor.

and if you Loctite them to the shaft.

I did not use loctite, and I did use a little custom key that I had to
make. (I had to bore the pulley hub, motor and hub have different
keyway widths etc etc so the piece had to be custom shaped). I mae it
out of regular mild steel.

He is driving a fan with an 1/8" keyway. I'm betting this is both a low
horsepower and smooth transfer of power, and the it will work fine.

possibly a lot of vibration.


But if you drive something like a compressor with an electric motor, or a
mower blade with a gasoline engine, you will probably, but not certainly
need the key. In these examples you are driving a reciprocating load with a
continuous source, or a continuous load with a reciprocating source. So the
shock loading is a considerable factor.

Good point.

He is driving a continuous load (fan) with a continuous source (electric
motor), so I bet he will be ok. The only questions is, can is find a taper
pulley for his shaft size. The 1/8" key makes me think we might be talking
about a 1/2" shaft, and I don't know if they make them that small.

Might even be 7/16 shaft.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/