The foot valve in the bottom of my well is starting to leak water again.
Third time in 22 years. Its a 5 hp. unit 220 foot down. I read a while ago
that I should have two check valves installed for this application. One at
the top of the well in addition to the bottom one.

OK, I'm ordering parts to install the second check valve.

I can see the next issue, I'm going to get a burp of air every time the pump
starts. Anybody know of a device to separate this air shot from the water in
the line?

Karl

In article s.com,
"Karl Townsend" wrote:

I can see the next issue, I'm going to get a burp of air every time the pump
starts. Anybody know of a device to separate this air shot from the water in
the line?

I assume you could use the same thing that we use to remove air from a
hydronic heating system. Not surprisingly, an automatic vent. You can
even use an air separator with an automatic vent on top of it. Of
course, you can also leave the air in there and let it collect in your
pressure tank, but might not want to if it's a bladder tank. If you have
water-hammer extensions on your pipes, entrained air would refill them.
Too much air will just burp out, but you might find that distracting.

http://www.bellgossett.com/homeowner...rseparator.asp

http://www.taco-hvac.com/en/products.../products.html
(go to "air elimination - otherwise the link is too long)

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

I do not really know why I am attempting to answer your question. You
already know the answer. If you are getting air in the column pipe,
you have a hole in the pipe. Your system is closed if you have
pressure tank. Your pump needs to be pulled. Yes, replace the check
valves, they do not last forever. Yes, two and the first one one joint
above the pump, the other at the surface. Why one joint up? Because
water come out of the pump swirling and wear out faster on top of the
pump. If you do not then here is the worst case senario. Pump comes on
fills up the pressure tank, if you have a bad check valve then water
drains back through the pump turning the opposite direction. Pressure
drops and pump starts, it was turning the opposite direction now the
right direction at 3460 rpm in a blink of an eye. This can cause a
shaft to break or twist. Filling a empty string of pipe will cause the
impellers to upthrust and you will have excessive thrust bearing wear
in your motor because of the excessive starts per hour. Depending on
how bad your ck. valve is, it could turn into a yo yo. Water goes up
and down. Electricity use goes up.
If a hole in the pipe then no back spin but excessive starts and
excessive thrust bearing wear. Pull it now or shut it off and use only
when you have to.

Scott in Texas

"Karl Townsend" fired this volley in
anews.com:

The foot valve in the bottom of my well is starting to leak water
again. Third time in 22 years. Its a 5 hp. unit 220 foot down. I
read
a while ago that I should have two check valves installed for this
application. One at the top of the well in addition to the bottom
one.

OK, I'm ordering parts to install the second check valve.

I can see the next issue, I'm going to get a burp of air every time
the pump starts. Anybody know of a device to separate this air shot
from the water in the line?

Karl




Way worse than that, Karl. If you install a TOP checkvalve in any
well deeper than 32ft, you're going to get a whale of a waterhammer
when that moving column hits your plumbing at vacuum-accerated speed.

Without the top check, the water will only come as fast as the pump
might normally eject it from x-feet deep. WITH the valve, there will
be a column of partial vacuum assisting the pump. The water will
probably be moving pretty fast when it hits the Ell-fitting at the top
of your wellhead.

LLoyd

fired this volley in news:35f065fc-4f28-4150-9669-
:

If you are getting air in the column pipe,
you have a hole in the pipe.

Could be water vapor at a partial vacuum, too. You don't need a leak at
the _top_ in a deep well for the water level in the pipe to drop. The
weight of the water column will do that, if the foot valve is leaking.

If there's no leak at the top, it will STILL drop, but it won't be air
*unless it's dissolved air*, it'll be water vapor.

LLoyd

Thanks, got one on order.

Karl

Way worse than that, Karl. If you install a TOP checkvalve in any
well deeper than 32ft, you're going to get a whale of a waterhammer
....

You and jano raise valid points. But that pump is 24 years old, it will have
to be replaced when I pull it this time. Big $, about $4K I'd guess. I only
get paid in the fall, so I'm going to try and limp by for a few months.

Karl

On Mar 16, 3:07*pm, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:
Way worse than that, Karl. *If you install a TOP checkvalve in any
well deeper than 32ft, you're going to get a whale of a waterhammer

...

You and jano raise valid points. But that pump is 24 years old, it will have
to be replaced when I pull it this time. Big $, about $4K I'd guess. I only
get paid in the fall, so I'm going to try and limp by for a few months.

Karl

You may not need to replace the pump. I know of several that are
decades old. One I think is still running was set 11/07/62. If a pump
makes it past 10 years, there was something "right" about the mfg. or
design or the install and usage. Just because it is old does not mean
it needs to be replaced. Ohm it and check the shaft height. Shaft
height is the most critical the insulation resistivity 2nd. You have
an above average pump do not abuse it. LLoyd is right waterhammer
will hammer your thrust bearing FAST if you do not replace the one in
the well. Years ago the experts said to place check valves a 150 ft
apart in deep set wells. Now the experts do not stress this, now they
just install a ck one joint up. If the bottom ck goes bad then then
water hammer will kill the motor because of water hitting the next
check up on start up. Most subs use a kingbury type thrust bearing.
If you want to see what one looks like.



Scott